DR10 1967 Mustang no prep build

[WickedFog]

So with caster, I would imagine turning the dual rate way down would be beneficial, because turning the front wheels will also cause the rear wheels to help steer the car in the direction the wheels are turned.

I might try to design and print a front bulkhead for the Slash to knock the caster down to about 5° or so, vs the 30° or so that it currently has.

 

[Iowa crawler]

When I get some more together I will measure the caster camber and toe on the DR10. Then I’ll replace the bulk head and see what I get.
Somehow I lost or did not get a wheelie bar bearing. Spent all night crawling around on the floor with a flash light. Finally ordered on this morning. 4.00 and I got some body posts so another $18.00.

I have a brushed system from a crawler I can put in. My thinking is I won’t be able to run this thing for a good three months because it’s Iowa. So I can wait on the whole electronics. Plus I want to craw before I run. Low power passes with save on paint.

The tires don’t line up on the mustang body very well. Looks like I can center the fronts perfectly then trim the rear wheel opening so it looks good.

Now I wait for parts.

 

[WickedFog]

Can you do a comparison with and without the sway bar hooked up first before you do the bulkhead? I am curious how much the sway bar helps.

On the wheelbase, it looks like the wheelbase is a little long? It looks like you could cheat a bit on the front too.

 

[Iowa crawler]

I can do that with the DR 10. The SCT is a problem plus it’s setup is spot on. So I don’t want to mess with it. Interesting how little the zero caster affects the rear wheels. How can I make the video better?
Should I hold it at full lock?
Should I sweep more?
Should I sweep slower?

 

[WickedFog]

I can do that with the DR 10. The SCT is a problem plus it’s setup is spot on. So I don’t want to mess with it. Interesting how little the zero caster affects the rear wheels. How can I make the video better?
Should I hold it at full lock?
Should I sweep more?
Should I sweep slower?

The DR10 is the only one I am really concerned about at this point, so no worries.

I would do a full sweep. Start with an average weight with wheels straight. Make sure the tires are centered on each scale. Let it sit for a few seconds to let the scales settle. Then lift the rig and set it back down and repeat 5 times or so total. Then we can get the average.

Then set it on the scale turning right full. Just leave the rig off and turn the servo manually and repeat the steps above and let it sit til the scales settle. Repeat that 5 times total. Turn the wheels left, rinse and repeat.

Doing a vid will make it easy, so just hold for a few seconds for each position and we can easily grab the readings from the vid. I will go through and take all the readings and post the results.

I would put everything in the rig first though... esc, motor, battery, etc, and try to get the chassis balanced side to side as best you can first before the tests. You can use stick-on lead weights to balance the chassis.

Thanks for doing this! We can learn a lot here!

 

[Iowa crawler]

This is going to be fun. I won’t have the actual parts till spring but I should be close enough for this test.
I’ll set up my go pro and video the whole process. Probably be a Saturday morning project.

 

[WickedFog]

Awesome! Yeah, it will be great for getting your chassis tuned to drive as straight as possible. If you could get it driveable first and record a few passes before you did anything it would be pretty cool as well.

Not sure how much testing you want to do, but a before and after of getting a 50/50 balance side to side would be really cool as well. It could show you how much a weight difference side to side causes the car to track one way or another.

Breydon's stock DR10 does pretty good, but it does tend to pull to the left a bit on launch. I am guessing it is a weight balance issue with the motor being on the left.

 

[Iowa crawler]

Data logging is very helpful when tuning for performance.

I can’t do anything but build for the next few months. It gets to -20 here sometimes. Great for crawling because the spillway is normally a swamp. In winter it’s a tiny truck playground.

But as I get going I’ll show the tools and set up board.
Then record all the suspension settings
I will be running a brushless ESC so I will have all the rpm, amp and temp readings.

And I will have the GPS to record 132 foot times.
I am also going to be scouting out locations. I found two on google earth but need to go look at them.

Keeping record of everything I can plus video of the run and then see what is needed.

Also I will need an electric leaf blower. I have orange cones.

This is a spot I thought was perfect but it has parking curbs. I will use it but not fast.

 

[WickedFog]

A friend told me also, setup a go pro on on the ground in slow-mo mode and focus on each side of the car and launch. It will show what the front and rear tires are doing. Do that from the front and back as well to look for chassis twist, weight transfer, etc. I can't wait til spring to start some of this myself.

 

[Iowa crawler]

The go pro is fantastic. I use it to record my land speed racing runs. I get the sound of the engine I can see the track markers and count the gears with a time reference. Works great if you can remember to turn it on.

 

[Doom!]

Works great if you can remember to turn it on.

It's the little things that get ya!

 

[Iowa crawler]

Been doing a bunch of other stuff. I made two quick videos. I need to put In a receiver and turn the wheels remotely . My hands make the scale go all over the place.

I started to set up the ride height camber and toe .

The caster is someplace between 6 and 15 degrees. There is a fair amount of play in the ball joints.

Did find a set up sheet. Also.

 

[WickedFog]

Awesome. I haven't messed with anything on my son's DR10 yet. Probably after we get the Slash done we'll give it some attention.

Just watched latest vids. It was hard to see the numbers on my phone. Will check it out in a bit. Did it look better with the sway bar?

 

[Iowa crawler]

I will do a better job of it all this weekend. I actually haven’t watched them yet.

 

[mwest9685]

My chassis kit went the wrong way. It was about an hour and a half west of my location in Iowa now, fourteen hours later it is two and a half hours away in Illinois. At least it’s getting a nice tour of the Midwest.

What part of Iowa you in? Born in Council Bluffs, IA

 

[Iowa crawler]

I’m in Iowa city.
Moved here from Baltimore City.

 

[mwest9685]

I’m in Iowa city.
Moved here from Baltimore City.

Nice, I live in Kansas now. Got a DR10 for No Prep Drag but have no idea lmao. Any suggestion on if servos matter? Any ideas or suggestions to help learn would be great lol

 

[Iowa crawler]

I think a fast servo but I’m just learning this as well.

Tonight I needed to hook up a servo and receiver so I can make the videos. I used a hobby wing 1080 with a crawler motor just for kicks.
I bet it goes ten mph.

 

[Greywolf74]

A friend told me also, setup a go pro on on the ground in slow-mo mode and focus on each side of the car and launch. It will show what the front and rear tires are doing. Do that from the front and back as well to look for chassis twist, weight transfer, etc. I can't wait til spring to start some of this myself.

Great tip!

 

[Iowa crawler]

I got my wheels today and painted them. The tires are glued and balanced.
I think I’ll get another set of tires to go with the rims included with the kit.