DR10 1967 Mustang no prep build

[WickedFog]

If it were me, I would run a bead of crazy glue around all the cut edges of the carbon fiber. It helps keep the carbon from delaminating.

Looking great so far.

Not sure why they left the front arms at such an angle. It would be better if they stood the shock tower up and leveled the arms. The severely raked arms are more for cornering like on the buggies and such. Their Drag Pak Maxim kit has the arms flat

 

[Iowa crawler]

The pro drag pack has close to or zero caster. Not sure why. I thought caster was good for self centering the steering.

 

[WickedFog]

Caster does a lot of things. It sorta changes the camber as the wheels turn, and it causes the chassis to lift and lower on each corner, depending on the direction that the tires are turned. It would likely be noticeable on the SkyRC corner weight scales I am guessing. If you turn the wheels each direction, I would imagine the weight on each rear wheel will transfer from side to side.

This is all just theoretical though as I have never tested this other than some modeling in CAD, and seeing how things move with caster and camber. I am no expert by any means, and I don't know for sure which is best. But I plan to learn as I go on our Slash build.

 

[Iowa crawler]

I have the corner weight scale and a set up table so I can measure caster, camber, toe ride height and corner weight and then after a crash or anytime I can adjust things accordingly.

I set my crawlers to zero caster or there about.
My thinking is with zero caster I don’t have camber changes on the rocks when I’m reaching for traction.

I got the sway bar form Drag Race Concepts. It is super high quality. Left hand threads on the links for easy adjustments.

I am working on the back end now.

500,000 weight oil is great. It’s like hot glass. I have sculpted with clay that was softer.

My advice for building the diff is to pull the cap off the tube. You can’t push 500k oil out of the tiny hole in the tube.

Put in a wad of oil without any gears. Then drop in the side gear and smash the oil out from under it as you lock it on the axle pin.

Then cut off another wad of oil and put it on top of that gear. After that install the spider gears and slice the over flow oil off the top. Before installing the other side of the diff. There is no way air would ever escape from this stuff.

 

[WickedFog]

I have the corner weight scale and a set up table so I can measure caster, camber, toe ride height and corner weight and then after a crash or anytime I can adjust things accordingly.

I set my crawlers to zero caster or there about.
My thinking is with zero caster I don’t have camber changes on the rocks when I’m reaching for traction.

I got the sway bar form Drag Race Concepts. It is super high quality. Left hand threads on the links for easy adjustments.

I am working on the back end now.

500,000 weight oil is great. It’s like hot glass. I have sculpted with clay that was softer.

My advice for building the diff is to pull the cap off the tube. You can’t push 500k oil out of the tiny hole in the tube.

Put in a wad of oil without any gears. Then drop in the side gear and smash the oil out from under it as you lock it on the axle pin.

Then cut off another wad of oil and put it on top of that gear. After that install the spider gears and slice the over flow oil off the top. Before installing the other side of the diff. There is no way air would ever escape from this stuff.

Awesome man. Then do me a favor - once you get your car setup, check the corner weights at 0° steering, then do that with the steering fully locked in each direction and let me know how it changes. I am very curious if my theory is correct or not. The sway bar will surely eliminate a lot of weight transfer in the rear, but I am betting there is still a tad side to side shift of the weight with all that caster.

 

[Iowa crawler]

Ya I will do that .

This is a good video about this issue. My feeling is . I need to actually race before I drop 600 bucks on a chassis.

 

[WickedFog]

Ya I will do that .

This is a good video about this issue. My feeling is . I need to actually race before I drop 600 bucks on a chassis.

That is one of the vids I watched when I was realizing this theory of mine lol. Grey and I were talking about it. And that is a sick looking chassis in that vid, but yeah, they are pricey. I drooled all over my phone while browsing their site. The guy in that vid has some really sick builds.

 

[Iowa crawler]

Tonight I’ll set up my short corse truck on the scale and video the steering sweep on the scale. I’ll also try it with a crawler that has zero.

 

[WickedFog]

That would be awesome. I have been wanting to grab that scale set. Just keep forgetting about it and burying it deeper in my wish list.

 

[ahr43]

So far so good on the Mustang project. Looking good.

Regarding selecting a paint color. Visibility at the 132ft mark is a consideration. Taking into account running in both daylight and artificial night light events. Also, texture or track color or shading will effect visibility and therefore driving at distance. Unlike off-road or on-road driving where side views are prominent in driving, drag racing one is [hopefully] only seeing the back of the car.

Anxious to see both of your cars as finished products. Always been an RC drag race fan. Gets in one's blood, it does. And nowhere near as easy as it looks. Cheers. 'AC'

 

[Iowa crawler]

I found out about visibility with airplanes. At least with this thing I can tell when it’s upside down.

 

[Iowa crawler]

So I was just looking at the front bumper. I don’t see any way to mount the stock bumper. I’ll be looking at that. But for 100 bucks I can get a flat bulkhead that eliminates the caster and has a flat carbon front bumper and body mount tHat would put the hood pins in a better location. Currently the hood pins would be to far back and to close together.
That is all going to have to wait.

 

[Greywolf74]

Awesome man. Then do me a favor - once you get your car setup, check the corner weights at 0° steering, then do that with the steering fully locked in each direction and let me know how it changes. I am very curious if my theory is correct or not. The sway bar will surely eliminate a lot of weight transfer in the rear, but I am betting there is still a tad side to side shift of the weight with all that caster.

I am also very curious about this.

 

[Iowa crawler]

OK stuff is getting real.

I don’t want to run without a front bumper. And the bumper holds the body posts. So I can’t mount the body without the front bumper. And I can’t paint the body till it’s mounted.
And I can’t lay there in bed all night worrying about my caster angle. I have bigger worries like 3.5 or 4.5 wind motors.
So I ordered the front bulkhead that will remove the caster and gives me a way to mount a bumper and the body mounts.

 

[WickedFog]

OK stuff is getting real.

I don’t want to run without a front bumper. And the bumper holds the body posts. So I can’t mount the body without the front bumper. And I can’t paint the body till it’s mounted.
And I can’t lay there in bed all night worrying about my caster angle. I have bigger worries like 3.5 or 4.5 wind motors.
So I ordered the front bulkhead that will remove the caster and gives me a way to mount a bumper and the body mounts.

So can we get a before and after test of the corner weights? It would be awesome if you could do that without and with the sway bar attached as well. I would think the worst load shift would be with caster and no sway bar.

 

[Iowa crawler]

Ya I’ll do that also. But I still want to see what happens tonight with my SCT

 

[WickedFog]

Ya I’ll do that also. But I still want to see what happens tonight with my SCT

Cool. So the SCT has about the same caster right?

 

[Iowa crawler]

First video is with caster second is a crawler with about zero.

 

[WickedFog]

Very cool. It shows the weight shift that caster steering applies to the rear of the car. But it kinda transfers the weight where you need it also.

So if your right rear is spinning, causing the car to veer right, caster transfers weight to the right rear.

So I can see the benefits of caster to some extent. But if your chassis is well balanced, caster would actually hurt you I am guessing.

 

[Iowa crawler]

I’ll do another when I get this DR10 rolling.