LCG chassis with Capra axles.

[Iowa crawler]

Has anyone driven the new 4wS Capra?

I had a chance last month and I am interested in the wider track and portals. 4WS is cool. The Capra I drove was out of the box and made quick work of some major obstacles. So I want to use some Capra axles on a LCG flat rail chassis.

I’m going to build a new rig for 2022. I have a class one,class two, and a sorta class 3. So now I want to make a rig that outperforms everything. A total cheater rig. So everything in the rules that is restricted is what this rig should have.

No bumpers front and rear.
Probably 4 wheel steering.
Bobed bed with dovetail tail in back and a pinched nose up front and with boat-sides.

I am going to slam it down so low the shock tower are coming out of the hood.

Capra axles with servo on axles and four link.

Everything ultra light weight and LOW. I might not do rear steering. But I want a ton of power so probably and 3350kv 10 pole motor and a mamba x.

Have not gotten anything yet. Still trying to decide on the body. Sell some tools and engine parts and start the collection.

I like the power wagon and I also like the 66 Chevy.
But a Toyota hardbody with a radical chop might look good also.

Something like this. Basically a G Speed GShot build.

 

[Jimbobjr]

I would like to do this as well. Are you just buying the kit? The only axles I ever see are the cheap metal ones on the Asian sites. Not being sure of fitment for axial spare parts I’ve not ordered any. Some times the plastic axial ones are on eBay but are still 160$. For a body Asiatees has some half bodies for cheap from TeamC. I’ve used a couple and for the money they aren’t bad.
This rig is pretty incredible. He’s using Capra super shafts axles.

 

[Iowa crawler]

I have had very good luck with those Asian alloy axles. With the AR44 and AR 45 axles the axial parts are a direct replacement. And it looks like the Capra axles are the same way. I already have brass portal boxes for an AR45 so I hope they work on Capra axles.

The other option beside the stock kit axles are Treal. That is like 250 but then you have to order everything separately.

I’ll go with the cheap axles. So far they seem OK. The biggest problem I have is been the knuckles and threads on the axial parts not the housings themselves.

 

[Jimbobjr]

I have had very good luck with those Asian alloy axles. With the AR44 and AR 45 axles the axial parts are a direct replacement. And it looks like the Capra axles are the same way. I already have brass portal boxes for an AR45 so I hope they work on Capra axles.

The other option beside the stock kit axles are Treal. That is like 250 but then you have to order everything separately.

I’ll go with the cheap axles. So far they seem OK. The biggest problem I have is been the knuckles and threads on the axial parts not the housings themselves.

Good to know about the ar44 and 45 alloy axles, thanks.
For lightweight I thought of buying the alloy axles and swapping out parts to the plastic housings. Maybe leave the front alloy and plastic in the back.
I really like the 4ws Capra. If they would get rid of the heavy cage it would be a true performer. Kind of how the element Ecto puts the gate keeper to shame and they are basically the same rig except the bodies. The Capra cage is more integrated in to the design so it would be a little more involved...even with the heavy body the Capra is amazing and looks really cool. Almost need two...one to build and one to run stock...
Good luck with the build. Looking forward to what you come up with.

 

[Iowa crawler]

I have don’t that and it does not really make that much difference. If I have weight I like it down low .
SOA and brass are usually enough

 

[Iowa crawler]

My body decision was just made easy.

J Concepts just releases the Creep cab only body.
My most capable crawler uses the creep body and I really like it. Not only looks cool but does not change the fore and aft CG or move it up much. It’s narrow so it fits in some places other body get stuck in. Like cracked between large rock overhangs.

This with the printed rear bed it should look great.

https://www.jconcepts.net/shop/jci-creeper-cab-only-body


These are the stock photos. My body cut will be about at the bottom of the blue stripe and the middle of the orange stripe over the wheel openings. And with the shock protruding through the hood.

 

[Iowa crawler]

Some progress on this build. I think but I’m never sure till the end I’m going to go for a power wagon Rat Rod look.
I really liked the way my salt treatment fake rust looks on my trailer.

The body on this is really minimal. Just the cab really so I want it to look cool. I was thinking about a modern carbon fiber wrap so super clean paint job. But this is a rock crawler and the body is just there to protect the interior parts when it falls down a rock face.

With that all in mind I went looking for brown paint for a polycarbonate body.

I’ll paint the inside silver gun metal and black. But outside will be a flat black rusty faded look the scratches won’t really show up on.

But again no brown paint. So I’m going to break down and buy an airbrush just for this project.

Then start playing with rust effects using bottle paint rather than rattle can.

It so frustrating no rattle can brown, gray, off white. But plenty of neon.

I have stuff ordered but the people that I order from are all at a big crawling event so everything is delayed a week. That gives me time to work on the body decisions.

 

[Iowa crawler]

I got the alloy Capra Axles today.
These axles are pretty nice.

131 dollars for both front and rear with steering linkage.
I swapped the portal gears to reduce the gear reduction and the parts swapped in so I think all the axles and bearings are Axial. They feel really smooth even at full lock.

 

[Iowa crawler]

I got the front axle finished. They cost 131 dollars for two all metal axles of very good quality. BUT and of corse there is always something. The first thing I found was the threads for the servo mount are not regular threads for everything else. So I just CAREFULLY retapped the threads.

Mounted the servo and that’s all good.

I then changed the 12/23 portal gears out for 15/20 gears to gain wheel speed.
And I added 75 gram brass portal boxes. When I went to assemble the axles I thought I lost the inner bearing. Nope. No inner bearings. I have plenty so it’s not big deal. Maybe they are not needed. But they will keep water out so there in there.

Moving on the the rear is no big deal. Add grease lock tight and portal gears.

 

[Iowa crawler]

Ok the drivetrain is looking pretty nice. The Capra axles have overdrive gears front and rear. The 2.low trans has 30% overdrive to the front wheels and the 3500kv Puller Pro has plenty of power on 3s.
Now I just need a chassis links and the rest.

 

[WickedFog]

@Mtbmatty - ️THIS️ is what you can do with your servo wire.

 

[Iowa crawler]

On the SOA set up I make a dorky coil. The receiver mounts on the face of the trans.

 

[Iowa crawler]

This is already my favorite. It’s is just falling together. Some of the ball links are the wrong size balls. So the next thing is to go through and shim or replace the ball sockets so everything is tight. Plus these alloy axles probably don’t like having the wrong size ball because it flexes the tabs when you tighten the bolts.

 

[Doom!]

C'mon man, get your ball links in order!

 

[Iowa crawler]

Tonight I’ll make a post about shimming the links if you don’t have the correct size ball ends.
They come in 6.5, 6.88/7. The 7.45 are Axial and seem to be the ones I always need.
Then they have 8.4 and they have a large flange. I use them when I don’t want the link to pop off of something.

For shims I use different thickness of Lexan. Extra scraps from bodys.
I learned this from air gun trigger tuning.
Cut a long strip of plastic about 6-10mm wide. Slide it into the area you need to shim. Like between the ball socket and the skid plate. You just use the screw to punch through the plastic. Or drill a tiny and once the bolt is tight. Cut off the strip.

Super slippery and eliminates any side to side play.

 

[Iowa crawler]

This this is a tank.
A carbon fiber tank anyhow.

I need to order different rear springs. Unless I can find something. But I know the red Dvtec springs are good.

Wheel speed is very fast. So I’m pleased all the gearing seems to be working out.

Also need get a body.

 

[Iowa crawler]

Went to a local swap meet today. Scored a compressor and three nice airbrush setups.

And a new set of Hyrax tires. All for eighty bucks.

I got a set of Boom racing Probuilt wheels. They are nice because you can adjust the offset. I put my offset in as far as possible. This covers the portals and keeps the C Hubs from grabbing.

The original track was 270mm with SSD wheels. And with the Pro Built wheels it’s 26.

 

[Doom!]

Nice score on the compressor and airbrushes.

 

[Iowa crawler]

I’m excited to explore that.

 

[Iowa crawler]

Made a front bumper. This is as easy as it gets . I drilled two holes in a piece if aluminum. Then layer it on another and drilled through.
I sandwiched the two sides together and used the bolts ti clamp the assembly in a vice. Quick work with a file made all the sides an exact match .
I then drilled a bigger hole at the far end. And cleaned it all up with a file and sandpaper. The center is a front upper link an SCX10ii based vehicle.