DR10 1967 Mustang no prep build

[Iowa crawler]

Now the chassis is stuck in Chicago. Probably gonna take a while.

 

[Chubaka]

That’s what I'm going to try. Using some scrap Lexan I will spray a PS gunmetal on the inside and outside. Let it tack up good and then primer the outside gray. Let that dry for a day or two then hit it with a hammer. If it just blows off then I will know.
I like the gray flat look for a scale appearance.

The paint on the inside of a Lexan bodys looks to shiny and smooth it is not scale.

I’m going to also do some tests with ps1 white and black backer to see how that looks and PS1 white with a matte clear on the outside.

On the scrap piece of plastic, try different fine sand papers and wet sanding. That creates a flat look, but if not done with the correct grit or too long will cloud or score it inside. All this is done inside to look flat outside.

You can also paint the inside and wet sand the outside. I used to do it on the trim on my mt bodys.

Then there is this:
https://www.rccaraction.com/get-flat-look/

 

[WickedFog]

If I were just going to scuff up the plastic for a dull look, I would grab some 3m White Scotchbrite.

 

[Greywolf74]

I'm casting my vote for Bullet

 

[Iowa crawler]

Not so much concerned with the full finish just how the paint on the outside looks more scale to me.

I do like the Bullet but it’s not a dragster and it’s a 1968.

I tried painting a base white then backing it with black, silver, orange , red and yellow. White does not react like the translucent colors do. This looks like a wash of white paint over the backer color. So rattle cans are out unless I go with PS1 white or pearl white.
The other choice is proline and mix then use a spray gun. I’ll see if I can get a 1967 color card from work. They have a color match system.

 

[Chubaka]

The second eleanor was a 67 gt500.

 

[Iowa crawler]

Ya and it’s the only car I would buy if I hit the lottery.
I do like the silver black thing and have a black lower stripe that says GT500. Probably can cut the stripes from sticker.

It’s definitely a top choice but I still kinda leaning toward a old school dragster.

Playing with color choice is fun since I don’t have a car to build.

 

[Iowa crawler]

my chassis kit is four or five days late and I happened to notice the e mail says signature required.
I paid for fast shipping and no signature required .
Now I’m sitting outside my house at 2:00 and it was suppose to be here between 8:30 and 1:55.
Must be the slowest moving dragster on earth.

 

[WickedFog]

I just got the Tower Hobbies order in and got the Mustang body. What as monster of a shell! I have to wait til the kiddo gets here to open it up, but it looks really nice. Are you going to mount the wing? If so, how are you mounting it? I was thinking of using some 2mm screws with nuts on the inside.

 

[Iowa crawler]

It comes with nuts and bolts for the wing. Probably not going to run the wing. Not old school enough. But probably very effective at reducing the drag at the rear. Down force is probably good also

 

[WickedFog]

Oh, I didn't even notice the hardware. Cool.

 

[Iowa crawler]

I did not notice it till i was throwing away the plastic and it fell on the floor.


Anyhow after 2 hours sitting in my truck doing computer stuff for work the FEDEX guy showed up. He did need a signature. But I got the package. I’ll just use regular shipping from now on.

 

[WickedFog]

I did not notice it till i was throwing away the plastic and it fell on the floor.


Anyhow after 2 hours sitting in my truck doing computer stuff for work the FEDEX guy showed up. He did need a signature. But I got the package. I’ll just use regular shipping from now on.

The Fedex driver today needed a signature for my Tower order, but there have been times I have selected the signature option and the Fedex driver just signed my name and dropped off the package.

What do you think about the Dragrace Concepts stuff? I have been looking at their stuff along with the Exotek stuff.

 

[Iowa crawler]

The Dragrace concept stuff seems pretty good. Not cheap but the parts are very well made. And super light.

I have been looking at the no prep stuff as well and the Drag concepts pro chassis is like 500 bucks. I can imaging hitting a curb with that. People would tease me about crying and flayling my arms around. So I went for the kit that replaces the DR10 stock pan.

I’m reading the instructions and it says there is an optional ball differential. I don’t think that is good for drag racing. But I know nothing.

 

[WickedFog]

The Dragrace concept stuff seems pretty good. Not cheap but the parts are very well made. And super light.

I have been looking at the no prep stuff as well and the Drag concepts pro chassis is like 500 bucks. I can imaging hitting a curb with that. People would tease me about crying and flayling my arms around. So I went for the kit that replaces the DR10 stock pan.

I’m reading the instructions and it says there is an optional ball differential. I don’t think that is good for drag racing. But I know nothing.

A ball diff works like a spool when going straight, but when turning, there is enough force to cause the balls to slip to the next pocket. So they would be really good in a drag car. Are they adjustable?

 

[Iowa crawler]

Yes it is adjustable and probably has a very fine adjustment. Seems fantastic for a track car but for a dragster I would think it would have to adjust it very tight not to slip.

 

[Chubaka]

A ball diff works like a spool when going straight, but when turning, there is enough force to cause the balls to slip to the next pocket. So they would be really good in a drag car. Are they adjustable?

I know traxxas had a ball diff years ago, and if you tighten it to tight it broke or didnt work somehow. I never bought one, and until you explained, I never knew they slipped. can't say if that was hearsay or not.

They also have lockers on ebay, aluminum and steel. You pull the diff, pull the 2 outputs and 4 gears, clean and install.

I will say locking the diff, any play on the shaft holes will be noticeable. Mine would curve here and there and on a wheelie usually violently curve into a crash.

 

[Iowa crawler]

This is an interesting thing and worth looking into more.
The kit comes with 500,000 wt oil for the diff. I would think a locked diff would do negotiate things when the traction gets iffy.

 

[WickedFog]

Turning around after a run with a spool I would think could get a bit hairy. I ran one in a monster truck years ago and it didn't like me at all when I turned a tight radius on pavement.

I considered a spool for our drag Slash build, but opted to go with 500k diff fluid instead. Still new to this whole RC drag thing, but I know in 1:1, traction lockers and spools are the way to go. On limited slip cars people would wedge beefier springs into the clutch packs trying to keep things locked as much as they can. My thoughts were with these Reaction wides on there, and our driving surface, a little slip might be best.

Just a hunch though

 

[Iowa crawler]

The kit and the DragRace Concepts chassis are different in a lot of ways. And I don’t really have instructions for the DRC chassis. I looked all over the web page for the instructions and they have the instructions for the pro kit. And that pretty good.

This is the stock DR10 front steering rack installed.
Got the front stuff together. I’m happy I don’t have to buy a body mount.

Next step is the rear suspension. Then it’s pretty much stock except for the wheelie bar.