Associated RB10 from a DR10 kit build

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Lumikko

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Ok, so I’d like to have a classic style rear motor buggy without the hassle of sourcing parts for a vintage B2 or B3. The RB10 fits the bill but 350 bucks with electronics and shocks I’ll have to replace goes into race kit price territory for a non-serious fun car. And the body is hideous.

I got a rather attractively priced DR10 kit and some SR10 parts (chassis, shock towers) and RB10 parts (bumper, rear body post) to get started.

The fit between parts is a bit loose. I presume this is to ensure it can be built on an assembly line without sanding and reaming the parts. A few shims here and there is something I’m used to.

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I also got a B5 front shock tower for better looks. It’s a direct fit and has the same geometry as stock. I couldn’t help myself and weighed them: 4.2 grams saved!

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Did I mention the RB10 body looks hideous? Thankfully, I didn’t get one. The Penguin B4 Repo body looks great to me. Not quite the same as the late ’80s and ’90s styles I love, but a significant improvement over anything we’ve seen in the past 10 years.

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I knew there was a +8 mm chassis for the B4 series and I couldn’t compare them so I went with the regular length. It seems a bit short on the SR10 chassis, the bulges for the front assembly are too far back. The next body I get for this thing will be the long version for sure.

However, a bit of heat gunning the body over the chassis helped it seat quite well.

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I’m using a Factory Team 25-degree aluminium bulkhead for durability. I also got a Revolution Design motor plate because it didn’t cost much and I always like the idea of cooling fins. Other than these, the level of bling will be very limited.

Based on things I’ve heard about the RTR shocks I wanted something else and more low-key than the bright blue bodies. EuroRC had a huge discount on Hobao Hyper H2 shocks so I ordered them along with some spares. These things are made in Taiwan and the quality is excellent. I used small internal limiters to match the length, no biggie.

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I switched the motor plate to a bling part made for the B5. Saved 3.6 grams right there – something I found only because I’m curious, not that it matters.

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I’m also using a B5 motor guard without the tabs for a wheelie bar (DR10) or rear bumper (Pro2).

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Does the few grams in weight you lose does that really affect anything?
 
Does the few grams in weight you lose does that really affect anything?
I’d like to exclaim ”Absolutely not!” but it would not be literally true. But the difference is laughably small.

The motor plate and front tower together cost 15 bucks and saved me 7.8 grams. That’s roughly the weight difference between a set of 3.5 mm steel and titanium turnbuckles. So at least I’ve paid less per gram. :D

I really do this for the bling and love of tinkering. Anything I weigh is because of curiocity.
 
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I gotta say the 87/18 stock gearing is moderate to say the least. Going for 72/26 to start testing.
 
Another couple of grams shed free of charge. This doesn’t even include the omitted mounting screw.

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Again, the modification is purely for looks. The B5 motor cage wouldn’t have mounting tabs for the rear extension anyway.

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I like to drill holes where I want to make tight turns on the body and wing. Here’s a test fit.

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