PLEASE!! Help find large monster truck like The Carnivore!

[WickedFog]

Yup, that is the Stampede I would get if I were going with the RTR.

I plan to grab the new kit version they have coming out some day, but I would buy a brushless motor/esc for it along with a better servo. That RTR is already brushless, so you will be in good shape.

I would not however run the Traxxas batteries in it. I would void the warranty first thing and cut the connector off the ESC and swap in an XT60 and run different batteries in it.

 

[Disappointed Denver]

I would go with the Arrma Granite 3s instead, it's $30 cheaper than the Stampede 4x4 VXL. Also, the Granite 3s doesn't use any proprietary connector unlike Traxxas and their TRX connector which you can't buy anymore. Well except for the 14mm hex and 23t servo in the Granite, but those can be changed easily without voiding the warranty. My cousin has a Granite 3s, he absolutely abuses it and it keeps going like nothing happened, I'm talking 15 foot jumps and terrible landings. But it all depends on what parts availability is like in your area, if there's a lot more Traxxas than Arrma parts, go with Traxxas.

If I go with the arrma granite 3s, which battery should i pick? And we have a bunch of hobby towns and privately owned hobby stores everywhere around the denver metro area.

 

[WickedFog]

If I go with the arrma granite 3s, which battery should i pick? And we have a bunch of hobby towns and privately owned hobby stores everywhere around the denver metro area.

Liperior, CNHL, and Zippy batteries are all good, and cheap. Get something at least 5000mAh (more is better), 50C (more is better), and 3s (11.1v). Just make sure it fits the battery tray. You'll want an EC5 plug on whatever battery you choose.

Our Granite 3s

 

[biggman100]

If I go with the arrma granite 3s, which battery should i pick? And we have a bunch of hobby towns and privately owned hobby stores everywhere around the denver metro area.

There is an entire discussion on here about NIMH and Lipo batteries, and opinions on the different brands. My advice, try to stay away from any of the super cheap stuff. They usually are a disaster waiting to happen. Personally, i have had very good luck with both ZEEE Power, and Gen's Ace 2S 7.4V batteries. For 3S, i stick strictly with Gen's Ace stuff. Before you get a battery and charger, i would research Lipo batteries. They arent just a plug it in and forget it type battery. The charger has to be set right, as in the right amps and voltage, and Lipo's should always be charged in a fire proof bag or box. These are all threads you should take a look at:
https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/what-battery-charger-do-you-recommend.97692/
https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/what-is-your-favorite-lipo-battery.129416/
https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/difference-between-a-2s-and-3s-lipo.91983/
https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/batteries-explained-and-battery-pack-maintenance.48879/
I know it seems like a lot, but it is definitely worth it.

 

[pug]

If I go with the arrma granite 3s, which battery should i pick? And we have a bunch of hobby towns and privately owned hobby stores everywhere around the denver metro area.

I use this CNHL 3s 6600mAh 120c in my Typhon 3s, it also fits in the Granite 3s, just snip off the Deans and get an EC5 connector soldered on.

 

[Disappointed Denver]

O.O..... ok now you're scaring me with the exploding batteries you can't leave plugged and will set fire to your car if you set something wrong

 

[pug]

O.O..... ok now you're scaring me with the exploding batteries you can't leave plugged and will set fire to your car if you set something wrong

It's not scary once you get the hang of it, trust me, I was there once. Take proper care of them, and they will last, cheaper LiPos are known to explode since they are well, cheaper. All you need is a good charger, good LiPo, a storage area, and the proper knowledge to maintain and care for LiPos.

 

[biggman100]

O.O..... ok now you're scaring me with the exploding batteries you can't leave plugged and will set fire to your car if you set something wrong

While that can happen, if you are careful and diligent, the risk is very minimal. Always match the numbers when charging (for example, a 5000MAH 2S 7.4V Lipo should be balance charged at 5.0A), always balance charge, and always match the settings on the ESC ( if the ESC has a jumper, make sure it is set to Lipo), and, for easy setting on the ESC, try to always have a matching program card, that way you know what the LVC is on the ESC. It might seem like a lot, but, once you are familiar with it, it almost becomes second nature.

 

[WickedFog]

It's not scary once you get the hang of it, trust me, I was there once. Take proper care of them, and they will last, cheaper LiPos are known to explode since they are well, cheaper. All you need is a good charger, good LiPo, a storage area, and the proper knowledge to maintain and care for LiPos.

I wouldn't say cheaper LiPo's are known to explode. As long as the internal resistance is not crazy high, the battery isn't puffing up, the battery is safe to play with. I have had my fair share of cheap LiPo's and have never once had one catch fire.

And I don't think I have ever seen or heard of one actually exploding. For that to happen, it would have to be in a very solid case, and sealed very well. When they go, they just "vent" as it's called, which is when something shorts out, catches fire inside, and quickly melts through the housing/wrap of the battery. I could see a hardcase LiPo "popping", or bursting open, but not an actual explosion. But they do burn hot enough to melt metal when the do burn up.

But I have also never seen a LiPo go up in person. But there have been numerous vids of people driving a nail through a LiPo to destroy it.

As long as you know how to charge LiPo's, and care for them, you are perfectly safe using them. Just take 15 minutes and read the battery safety sheet that comes with your truck. It has a lot of useful info in it. I just read one awhile ago when I was looking for the MT10 ESC programming settings.

 

[olds97_lss]

If the stampede 4x4 is a size you can live with, it can be extended by getting a slash 4x4 HCG chassis. Throw on some bigger tires and better axles and it's a bit more of a "monster truck", but it won't drive like a solid axle purpose built monster truck like the losi LMT.

The stampede even with the slash chassis isn't "big"... but as money/time allows, it can be upgraded a lot to do a lot of really stupid stuff. lol!

This is what mine started as, a stock 4x4 vxl stampede:

Vs now, with a slash chassis, traxxas 17mm sledgehammer tires, 1/8th motor/esc and a myriad of other stuff.

An older bash session when I ran it on 2S and had the stock chassis:

My last bash session on 4S with the current setup:

It still look smaller in that second video, but it's running with 1/5th scale (arrma 1/5th outcast) and 1/8th scale stuff (1/8th 6s kraton/notorious).

 

[WickedFog]

@olds97_lss

Every time I watch your vid, I want a donut. Is there some sort of subliminal messages in your vids or something?

 

[Disappointed Denver]

Are there any rc cars that don't use pins to take off body and change battery?
They are so hard to put on and take off!

 

[WickedFog]

Are there any rc cars that don't use pins to take off body and change battery?
They are so hard to put on and take off!

You can replace the pins with Pro-Line body nuts. You have to cut off the existing pin and drill a hole in the body post. But it's rather easy to do.

https://www.towerhobbies.com/produc...t-for-pro-line-body-mount-kits/PRO607002.html

 

[pug]

Are there any rc cars that don't use pins to take off body and change battery?
They are so hard to put on and take off!

Traxxas Rustler 4x4 (VXL), Traxxas E-Revo, Traxxas Maxx, Traxxas X-Maxx, Traxxas Hoss.

 

[biggman100]

Are there any rc cars that don't use pins to take off body and change battery?
They are so hard to put on and take off!

There are a few ways you can eliminate the pins. Pro-Line makes a system where you can replace the mounts with nuts: https://www.ebay.com/itm/312270470859 There is also the hidden mount system that uses magnets: https://www.amazon.com/Hobbypark-Ma...ocphy=9005776&hvtargid=pla-446646098286&psc=1 or, you can get rubber pull tabs that go on the clips: https://www.amainhobbies.com/prolin...6QTFc1oSR-Ddz8q6JFrTpo8M_VYcUV3kaAr8FEALw_wcB These are the same idea as the pull tabs, but, for theses you drill a small hole in the body and that way you dont lose the clips as easily: https://www.amazon.com/ARRMA-Retain...t=&hvlocphy=9005776&hvtargid=pla-724255309196 After you pull the tabs out of the mount a few times, they will open up a bit and get easier to remove. A trick i use is to push them from the backside with a popsicle stick or other thin flat piece of wood while holding the head of the clip so it doesn't fly away. I'm sure there are other ideas as well, these are just the ones i know of.

If the stampede 4x4 is a size you can live with, it can be extended by getting a slash 4x4 HCG chassis. Throw on some bigger tires and better axles and it's a bit more of a "monster truck", but it won't drive like a solid axle purpose built monster truck like the losi LMT.

The stampede even with the slash chassis isn't "big"... but as money/time allows, it can be upgraded a lot to do a lot of really stupid stuff. lol!

He could always get a Senton or Slash 4X4 and just put monster truck tires on it. Easiest way to do it actually versus buying a monster truck and "stretching" it. I know the Senton chassis will fit the Granite, but then you have to disassemble the entire truck and swap everything over. I'm not sure what it takes to swap the Slash chassis onto the Stampede, since i have only ever owned one Traxxas, and that i got recently.

 

[pug]

There are a few ways you can eliminate the pins. Pro-Line makes a system where you can replace the mounts with nuts: https://www.ebay.com/itm/312270470859 There is also the hidden mount system that uses magnets: https://www.amazon.com/Hobbypark-Ma...ocphy=9005776&hvtargid=pla-446646098286&psc=1 or, you can get rubber pull tabs that go on the clips: https://www.amainhobbies.com/prolin...6QTFc1oSR-Ddz8q6JFrTpo8M_VYcUV3kaAr8FEALw_wcB These are the same idea as the pull tabs, but, for theses you drill a small hole in the body and that way you dont lose the clips as easily: https://www.amazon.com/ARRMA-Retain...t=&hvlocphy=9005776&hvtargid=pla-724255309196 After you pull the tabs out of the mount a few times, they will open up a bit and get easier to remove. A trick i use is to push them from the backside with a popsicle stick or other thin flat piece of wood while holding the head of the clip so it doesn't fly away. I'm sure there are other ideas as well, these are just the ones i know of.

He could always get a Senton or Slash 4X4 and just put monster truck tires on it. Easiest way to do it actually versus buying a monster truck and "stretching" it. I know the Senton chassis will fit the Granite, but then you have to disassemble the entire truck and swap everything over. I'm not sure what it takes to swap the Slash chassis onto the Stampede, since i have only ever owned one Traxxas, and that i got recently.

The Arrma Big Rock Crew Cab is pre-stretched!

 

[biggman100]

The Arrma Big Rock Crew Cab is pre-stretched!

I know. Even that needs better tires though, since the Ragnaroks suck. They are way too skinny. The Big Rock is an almost perfect blend of MT and SCT. If it had the Granite tires and wheels right from the start, it would be the perfect out of the box truck in my opinion.

 

[Disappointed Denver]

You guys are amazing! <3
Another question... how about cleaning it? Most of these cars say they are waterproof... so when they get muddy or get dirt in it, can I just hose it off or will they need a full take down and meticulously clean each part each time it goes outside?
Are there any rc cars out there with the engine and battery protected? Most I see just have everything open where the mud can just fly in.

 

[WickedFog]

You guys are amazing! <3
Another question... how about cleaning it? Most of these cars say they are waterproof... so when they get muddy or get dirt in it, can I just hose it off or will they need a full take down and meticulously clean each part each time it goes outside?
Are there any rc cars out there with the engine and battery protected? Most I see just have everything open where the mud can just fly in.

If mine were that bad, the first thing I would do is dig the battery out of it and clean it off. I would then hose the car off with a hose. Then take the wheels off and any easy to get to bits. Then I would let it dry a bit and spray a small dab of WD40 on all the mechanical joints and bearings. Once that sits a bit, I wipe it down. I did this exact process on our Granite the first time we took it out.

The electronics on most newer RC's is either waterproof, or splash proof. Neither or these types is completely foolproof. Stuff happens. But one way to break in a brushed motor is to run it submerged in water. It sounds crazy, but it helps break them in. Servos on the other hand have little control boards in them, and even though some claim to be waterproof, if water makes its way inside them, it can destroy them. Receivers don't fair to well under water either for the same reasons, which is why any RC claiming to be waterproof has the receiver inside a sealed box. ESC's are typically sealed with an epoxy resin and can operate in an underwater environment.

 

[biggman100]

You guys are amazing! <3
Another question... how about cleaning it? Most of these cars say they are waterproof... so when they get muddy or get dirt in it, can I just hose it off or will they need a full take down and meticulously clean each part each time it goes outside?
Are there any rc cars out there with the engine and battery protected? Most I see just have everything open where the mud can just fly in.

Is that a pic of one of mine when I'm done running it? Seriously though, if you get it that dirty, the best thing to do, like @WickedFog said, pull the battery, pull the wheels, and hose everything down with clean water. Once thats done, dry it with compressed air, then, what i do is pull the hubs and motor, clean the hub bearings really good, wipe them dry and spray then with PB Blaster, then clean the motor, dry it really good, then put a drop of two of oil on the end bearings. I use singer sewing machine oil personally. Getting them that dirty can be fun, but, to keep running it like that does take a bit of work to maintain it. If you just spray it with water and leave it, eventually bearings will lock up and the motor, even if its supposed to be waterproof, will fail, metal parts, like screws and hinge pins will rust, and eventually it will be junk. Some of the guys around here, since we run in mud, dirt, and snow, will take the electronics out of even a new truck, and spray down the entire chassis with WD40, in effect making it easier to keep the dirt and mud from ruining anything, and making it easier to clean, then, respray it every 4TH or 5TH time it gets ran.