T-Maxx Truck

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I soaked the engine in one of those one gallon Parts Cleaner baths that the parts store sells - everything is clean as clean can be - even ran copper wire through the oil holes to ensure they were clear. It soaked all day as I slave labored in the front of the house today. Still cannot get the crankshaft out! I took a 2x4 and didn't just thump it, I super thumped it, didn't even budge. That's just bull-hockey!
 
WideOpen said:
I soaked the engine in one of those one gallon Parts Cleaner baths that the parts store sells - everything is clean as clean can be - even ran copper wire through the oil holes to ensure they were clear. It soaked all day as I slave labored in the front of the house today. Still cannot get the crankshaft out! I took a 2x4 and didn't just thump it, I super thumped it, didn't even budge. That's just bull-hockey!
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Well, I don't think it is necessary if it works fine.
 
all soaked and cleaned, carb too - gonna put it back together.
 
Seems like it will work. With the head off and my thumb over the cylinder, when I rotate the engine there seems to be compression and suction. But the butthairs at HobbyTown sold me the brass washer from the block to head for a 3.3 and I have a 2.5 - I even had it with me. dorks. And they didn't give me the O-ring for the backplate to engine! Another 40 min trip.
 
WideOpen said:
Seems like it will work. With the head off and my thumb over the cylinder, when I rotate the engine there seems to be compression and suction. But the butthairs at HobbyTown sold me the brass washer from the block to head for a 3.3 and I have a 2.5 - I even had it with me. dorks. And they didn't give me the O-ring for the backplate to engine! Another 40 min trip.
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Idiots sorry man they don't look part numbers. Do you not have the o-ring you took off should work. Unless ripped or dried out. The exhust o rings are the same The header gasket should be # (5229) for 2.5 2.5R so you have the part # for them idiots. they always ask for it here in jersey HT.
Screenshot_20210708-045237_Drive.jpg
 
StonerRC365 said:
Idiots sorry man they don't look part numbers. Do you not have the o-ring you took off should work. Unless ripped or dried out. The exhust o rings are the same The header gasket should be # (5229) for 2.5 2.5R so you have the part # for them idiots. they always ask for it here in jersey HT.View attachment 129318
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Sorry backplate o-ring should be the same if they mess up again
 
I went back to HobbyTown and the young man this evening - he knew his business, sharp dude. However, they did not have either part. He looked mine over and said "use them, they will work fine" so I did. The engine is all back together and spins nicely and seems to have compression and suction. I will work on getting it back installed in the chassis tomorrow. I have all of the screws in place and a slight snug - just need to look up the torques for each and crank 'em down.
 
Cool beans man! To be honest I don't think I ever tourqed any of my stuff down. Just get the screws TIGHT. With out striping the head out
 
WideOpen said:
I went back to HobbyTown and the young man this evening - he knew his business, sharp dude. However, they did not have either part. He looked mine over and said "use them, they will work fine" so I did. The engine is all back together and spins nicely and seems to have compression and suction. I will work on getting it back installed in the chassis tomorrow. I have all of the screws in place and a slight snug - just need to look up the torques for each and crank 'em down.
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Good luck man!
 
Mechanically it is all back together - now I just have to get the electronics how I think they should be.
 
On transmitters and the receivers, I presume the little box in the truck is the receiver, do those go bad or get weak. This will be confusing but here is what I got - its a HoBao set up. The transmitter is a HoBao 2.4GHz Professional. on the receiver it has four connecting ports and they are labeled from top to bottom B,3,2,1. I would thing the B is for the wires coming from the Battery. If I plug the steering into 3 the wheels moved then that is it, but it has a buzz to it. If I plug the steering into 2 it want to operate the steering with just the going forward trigger. When I plug it into 1 the steering operates like it should from the steering wheel control. So, one of the others will obviously be for forward/reverse and acceleration, which I would think would all be the same box to operate that - what is the third servo for?
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I plugged the other two connectors into port 2 and pulling back on the trigger, one operates the rods going to the carb and when I plug the other one into port 2 it operates, what I think, is the transmission. But either way, it only operates when I pull back on the trigger, nothing if I push the trigger forward, like what you'd do to put in in reverse
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When I plugged into port 1 - the one plug opened the carb wide open and nothing else happened it just stayed open, even after I unplugged it. Then I plugged the other connector into 1 and I heard something but nothing moved and nothing does move
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And I understand it has a brake and I see it there, a wheel in-between two plates, how do I operate it, or is it naturally on if when I am not operating the trigger mechanism?
 
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Channel 1 is for steering servos
Channel 2 is for the Throttle/Brakes
Channel 3 on your kit sounds like it would operate the servo for changing the transmission from fwd to rev.
The B Channel is for your nitro battery pack so it can power all of the electronics.
 
When I plug it in like that, the steering is correctly functional, the throttle is functional when I pull back on the trigger, but nothing happens when I push on the trigger and I cannot make the transmission servo function no matter what I do.
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Would it need to be running to make the other stuff work?
 
Some video of the exact issues would probably help us see what could be wrong. This is a nitro rig yes?
 
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