T-Maxx Truck

[WideOpen]

struggling to get the piston sleeve out...

 

[WickedFog]

struggling to get the piston sleeve out...

Did you try the oven method mentioned?

 

[WideOpen]

No, soaking it getting ready to go to bed, but tomorrow if soaking it does not work, I will heat it up - thanks for the reminder, I did forget that!

 

[STONER RC]

Did you happen to get out your sleeve? If not you can try freeze off. It's a blue and white can thats at any auto parts place. It should shrink the part enough to get it out. With a little pressure.

 

[WideOpen]

been a busy day, did my civil parade duty then made it to HobbyTown and spent $100 then came home and changed the fuel filter and hoses on my tractor, then cut grass. I did take the truck and controller to HobbyTown and the guy behind the counter said "wrong controller" for the little gizmo. Somewhere in all my busy, I found the controller he said to look for, and whalla - it communicated! Now I just have to get that stupid piston sleeve out.

 

[WideOpen]

well, I got it hot enough I could not hold it without a leather glove and still didn't budge. I am pulling the carb now and gonna submerge it in a soak.

 

[WideOpen]

Still have not been able to remove the cylinder sleeve - it is a booger. However I began messing with the communications part of it a little more today. That boy of mine had this set up kinda screwy - this is about a 2006 TMaxx Classic 2.5 - can someone shoot me a picture of the bottom of what this machine should look like? He had the pinion arm positioned incorrectly and I am wondering about other things - heck I'd guess I'd also like a picture of the top side of the chassis works too.

 

[WideOpen]

Son!!!! I finally got the sleeve out - what a sumbabeach. dang-it that made for some tuff living there.

 

[Doom!]

Success! Glad to hear you finally got it.

 

[WideOpen]

Now I am struggling to get the stupid crankshaft out - I spect that boy never ran a drop of that after oil in it...just guessing...but it has been in a hot-hot attic for several years too.

 

[STONER RC]

Still have not been able to remove the cylinder sleeve - it is a booger. However I began messing with the communications part of it a little more today. That boy of mine had this set up kinda screwy - this is about a 2006 TMaxx Classic 2.5 - can someone shoot me a picture of the bottom of what this machine should look like? He had the pinion arm positioned incorrectly and I am wondering about other things - heck I'd guess I'd also like a picture of the top side of the chassis works too.

Here you go bud Tmaxx 2.5 nitro under
And top veiw

 

[STONER RC]

Sorry it looks like crap. My 2.5 is actually torn down to basically just the trans and drive train.I threw the motor and steering servo in this morning for the pics. This is what it really looks like. LoLIf you need the exploded veiws paper work. I can send that to you as well.just let me know bud

 

[WideOpen]

I think this will get me what I need - thanks much!

 

[WideOpen]

One thing I don't understand is - on the turnbuckles, the ends of the ball joints are flat and Traxxas calls out countersunk style screws - that just seems weird to me.

 

[STONER RC]

Are you taking about the ball cap screws. That are counter sunk into the knuckles depending how much camber you have on your wheels?

 

[STONER RC]

Or you talking about the tie rod end screw that is also a counter sunk to set into the tie rod end?

 

[Greywolf74]

Are you taking about the ball cap screws. That are counter sunk into the knuckles depending how much camber you have on your wheels?
View attachment 129118

I believe hes talking about the screw holding the tie rod ball end to the pillow ball hub. If so then it doesn't really matter what the screw head is as long as it doesn't hit or interfere with normal operation. Thats actually true of any screw anywhere on the kit....Unless your OCD like me and you want everything exactly like the manual says lol.

 

[STONER RC]

It definitely doesn't matter. Use what ever screw you have that will fit. And not interfere like you Wolf said. LOL

 

[STONER RC]

Engine is locked up. I have it pulled,

• Is the backplate the plate directly under where the exhaust comes out?
• Will there be gaskets in there that I will need to replace?
• Is there something else I can soak this in beside the after run oil?

The nearest HobbyTown is 40 minutes away and they don't open until I get to work and they close too early after I get off of work - well, I could make it, it'd just be fighting traffic and rushing.

Did you try taken the easy start off the motor and putting a wrench on the one way bearing. And try and turn it. Do you have a vice to put it and hold it. If it's gummed up you also could try to heat up the caseing see if you can get the gummed fuel loosened up a little to turn it

 

[WideOpen]

I believe hes talking about the screw holding the tie rod ball end to the pillow ball hub. If so then it doesn't really matter what the screw head is as long as it doesn't hit or interfere with normal operation. Thats actually true of any screw anywhere on the kit....Unless your OCD like me and you want everything exactly like the manual says lol.
View attachment 129120

That - that just don't seem logical to me