Savage suspension conversion from HPI

[bobaloohoo]

If the thread exists somewhere in this forum, dont hesitate to delete this post, i just need some unbiased opinions on users that have this kit.

I was thinking of ordering this kit from HPI for my savage along with the sway-bar. Is it worth the money? question being because its aluminum, or should i save my mulah? FYI- I'm not into racing, but fast action bashing

 

[Rolex]

Got link?

 

[Nitro Nerd]

So I looked at this kit a while back and there are a few items I'd like but some things I just don't need. So don't have all the items

What specifically are you wanting to do? That will help pair down your items, no?

In other words: "I'd like my truck to do xzy" I'd hate to see you (or anyone) buy something just because

For example, I wanted to balance some of the chassis roll for quicker steering response at high speeds. The sway bars helped me to that. I don't race an MT either, but setup is setup, IMO.

Also, are you saying u want alum parts or do not want them?

 

[gablett]

I ordered the kit. Waiting for it to be delivered. I wanted it to lower the rolling CG and make it corner better. I want it to be a monster truck that corners about as good as a monster truck can. Ill have more details once it arrives from Kalifornia and I get it installed.

The Sway bar, is really worth it. Its easy to install, cheap and really helps keep the tires planted. I'm going to put 50k in my diffs and I think that combination with the sway bar will keep the power to the ground.

 

[bobaloohoo]

i want better stability at higher speeds, and better handling. i dont race, just for bashing. and I'm saying I'm not sure if aluminum HPI parts would be worth the extra cash for my bashing, pretty much just asking to see if i should save the money and not buy the kit, or get it for better handling. if i was a racer id be all over it, but I'm a basher. so my questions stands right heeya!

---------- Post added at 2:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 2:40 PM ----------

Got link?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HPI-87245-S...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58ae5809a0

 

[Alexander_0_1]

I have that, I'm going to deanodized it now that's its warm, I'd rather have raw aluminum than purple though.

 

[gablett]

I have that, I'm going to deanodized it now that's its warm, I'd rather have raw aluminum than purple though.

Yea I've never quite understood the fact that most things come in purple. Even the clutch shoes are purple. Whos even gonna see that?

 

[bobaloohoo]

I have that, I'm going to deanodized it now that's its warm, I'd rather have raw aluminum than purple though.

is it worth it for bashing?

 

[Alexander_0_1]

If I deanodized it, I won't be able to see the scratches from all the gravel.

What someone needs to come up with is a balanced inner wheel guard so I don't get rocks caught between the rims, and the knuckles. I loose most of my dogbones that way, due to the twisting.

 

[Nitro Nerd]

is it worth it for bashing?

I just don't get the 'if I were racing I'd want it to handle better' mindset To me a good setup is just that. I see a lot of people say "I'm just bashing" but the idea is to have a kick-ass vehicle no matter where you drive it. I'm not racing my Savage (in any sort of ROAR sanctioned events) but I still want it to be monstrous else I'm doing myself and the vehicle a disservice.

So if you want my honest opinion, I don't think you would be spending your money wisely buying that kit. I would encourage you to drive the poop out of it, and then you'll realize precisely what the vehicle needs over time. If you already have your pulse on the Savage...then no point asking the question.;-)

Regarding alum, I only use as needed. Why change a lighter part out with a heavier one if the lighter one has not broken?

 

[bobaloohoo]

I just don't get the 'if I were racing I'd want it to handle better' mindset To me a good setup is just that. I see a lot of people say "I'm just bashing" but the idea is to have a kick-ass vehicle no matter where you drive it. I'm not racing my Savage (in any sort of ROAR sanctioned events) but I still want it to be monstrous else I'm doing myself and the vehicle a disservice.

So if you want my honest opinion, I don't think you would be spending your money wisely buying that kit. I would encourage you to drive the poop out of it, and then you'll realize precisely what the vehicle needs over time. If you already have your pulse on the Savage...then no point asking the question.;-)

Regarding alum, I only use as needed. Why change a lighter part out with a heavier one if the lighter one has not broken?

and that was most of what i was asking if the aluminum would hold up for bashing, i know its possible for anything and everything to break. just didnt know if it would be worth spending a buck fifty on something aluminum for bashing

 

[sv250]

I have it on one truck. Not worth it.

 

[Nitro Nerd]

and that was most of what i was asking if the aluminum would hold up for bashing, i know its possible for anything and everything to break. just didnt know if it would be worth spending a buck fifty on something aluminum for bashing

I still don't understand what you are asking then. Is it whether alum hold up for bashing? Is it worth spending money on alum for bashing? If you are having problems breaking specific parts, then yeah--look for a metal option only for that part if you think it will solve that particular problem (or better yet determine if there is a design issue you can work around). I think you noted once your Savage is like three pounds heavier than stock, correct? What caused that? Were you breaking lots of parts? If not, think of how much more nimble it would be if you shed three pounds off it (which is a LOT for an rc vehicle).

The benefit in this kit is the tuning options, not the material, which can be argued is a liability. If you look at some of the most durable kits on the market...how many of them are saturated with alum parts? It's a marketing ploy. Like those alum a-arms. I even one saw an alum air-filter. Really? I imagine some poor chump just followed the leader and was told that it's needed. I imagine he popped it on, slowly rubbed his hands...fired up his engine drove around for a bit and thought "Damn I just wasted $15.00" ;-)

You noted you were looking for it to handle better at higher-speeds (completely understood as I've been working through that as well). Even then it's a generic statement, eh? Really not trying to be obtuse...just trying to understand your approach here. You know I'm not as savvy as others on here, but am happy to help with what I've learned (often the hard way).

 

[bobaloohoo]

I still don't understand what you are asking then. Is it whether alum hold up for bashing? Is it worth spending money on alum for bashing? If you are having problems breaking specific parts, then yeah--look for a metal option only for that part if you think it will solve that particular problem (or better yet determine if there is a design issue you can work around). I think you noted once your Savage is like three pounds heavier than stock, correct? What caused that? Were you breaking lots of parts? If not, think of how much more nimble it would be if you shed three pounds off it (which is a LOT for an rc vehicle).

The benefit in this kit is the tuning options, not the material, which can be argued is a liability. If you look at some of the most durable kits on the market...how many of them are saturated with alum parts? It's a marketing ploy. Like those alum a-arms. I even one saw an alum air-filter. Really? I imagine some poor chump just followed the leader and was told that it's needed. I imagine he popped it on, slowly rubbed his hands...fired up his engine drove around for a bit and thought "Damn I just wasted $15.00" ;-)

You noted you were looking for it to handle better at higher-speeds (completely understood as I've been working through that as well). Even then it's a generic statement, eh? Really not trying to be obtuse...just trying to understand your approach here. You know I'm not as savvy as others on here, but am happy to help with what I've learned (often the hard way).

you already answered my question lol. i could care less if it was aluminum or not because I'm not having problems breaking things. my problem was others problems with aluminum. that aside, i was just wanting to know if the kit does what it says and is worth it, but obviously not. ill just stick to the sway bar and the 50 weight i have in my shocks. just need to get some harder foam for my trenchers too, they are soft, which is GREAT for dirt and rocks. Not so much for stability though, i made them balloon up so much they touch eachother(and ill tell you thats a scary site to see).

 

[Nitro Nerd]

Ballooning is often caused by clutch setup. It took me a while to figure that out but I noticed that when I put on a new engine the power draw was too much. Break in traction, slow acceleration, etc caused it. Just something to consider. What is your engine/clutch setup now?

 

[bobaloohoo]

one thing ill tell you is, these trenchers are 40 series 2.2's they are huge tires, wide and soft. my stock tires didnt balloon, these do because they are godzilla eggs made from silly putty lol

 

[Nitro Nerd]

Oh, okay. I was thinking to ensure you don't have some sort of a lag due to your engine/clutch setup causing you to break traction. I noticed it in my truggy when I swapped engines (from one that was 'meh' to one that was stooping powerful). Springing down my clutch helped, but that was more of a latent effect, as I did not care too much about the ballooning.

Regardless, to my knowledge there is nothing to worry about with ballooning tires, don't see how it would affect handling, if anything it would make the truck a bit faster...so I'd assume. But yeah, it's pretty freaky to see. My son was marshalling once and I saw him jump back like 5 feet...he told me a later a truggy lost it's bind and was on its lid at WOT. He said the tires got as big as a pizza and scared the crap out of him (he's never seen it). Ha

 

[craig911]

in my own opinion i prefer the plastic parts its cheaper to replace if something breaks

you can tune your shocks to how you like them by changing the springs and trying different silicon oil cst/wt

you can also change the caster/camber by adjusting the rear tie rods and by getting the adjustable upper arms for the front and rear if you don't already have them,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HPI-SAVAG...sGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item3f35fb3926

I'm running a converted savage 25 to X so I'm still running all 8 shocks and like the look of 8 shocks, I'm still yet to upgrade to the adjustable upper arms but they are next on my list of upgrades

so for the sake of saving some cash just purchase the adjustable upper arms,
you may want to keep in mind that the savage may lose some handling ability with the sway bar kit & it has a tendency to bend after some jumps you could just lower the centre of gravity by removing some preload spacers in the shocks

 

[Nitro Nerd]

you can also change the caster/camber by adjusting the rear tie rods and by getting the adjustable upper arms for the front and rear if you don't already have them,

Ding-ding-ding! You are spot on. This is I have...which is part of my endeavor to limit traction roll.

 

[bobaloohoo]

already got em man! thanks anyways