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Traxxas Rustler with working 2 speed

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I haven't even got the first clue on how to do that lol
Use a handheld touch, the green, yellow, or blur ones. Heat it up cherry red then dip it in oil or water. The other way is getting it extremely cold. I haven't got a clue on that process!

I started doing it on my mini traxxas. The ring and pinion are $12 each. At one point I had nearly 20. 😱 this cut down on them stripping.


 
The 2 speed Jato tranny holds 0.8 spur gears, you can just get a 50t integy 0.8 steel spurgear and a Traxxas 24t clutchbell. Although I'm not sure the big block can hold that clutchbell? 🤔 worth a try though if you want to reach higher speeds with it. Or if you find another way let me know, I'm genuinely curious about it
I'm using a steel Hot Racing 42T spur and a redcat racing 18T hardened clutch bell. The clutch bell needs to be a hardened 1mod. With the power of the big block it'll be shredding the clutch otherwise.

Use a handheld touch, the green, yellow, or blur ones. Heat it up cherry red then dip it in oil or water. The other way is getting it extremely cold. I haven't got a clue on that process!

I started doing it on my mini traxxas. The ring and pinion are $12 each. At one point I had nearly 20. 😱 this cut down on them stripping.


I saw them do something similar on mythbusters, except it was with a gun barrel to see if they could chop it with a sword lol.

Did some more work on the Rato this weekend.
Carbon fiber wheelie bar with stabilizer arm, not sure how well it's going to work though.
20240226_073028.webp

Added a brace that goes from the transmission to the upper deck to prevent binding between the spur and the clutch bell. This was kind of a first version but I'm sure I'll trim the side brace down some to allow more clearance.
20240226_073044.webp

Fitted a new VXL body with LEDs
20240221_215144.webp

I still need to finish making a bracket for the action cam and the power converter for the LEDs.
 
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I'm using a steel Hot Racing 42T spur and a redcat racing 18T hardened clutch bell. The clutch bell needs to be a hardened 1mod. With the power of the big block it'll be shredding the clutch otherwise.


I saw them do something similar on mythbusters, except it was with a gun barrel to see if they could chop it with a sword lol.

Did some more work on the Rato this weekend.
Carbon fiber wheelie bar with stabilizer arm, not sure how well it's going to work though.
View attachment 183150
Added a brace that goes from the transmission to the upper deck to prevent binding between the spur and the clutch bell. This was kind of a first version but I'm sure I'll trim the side brace down some to allow more clearance.
View attachment 183151
Fitted a new VXL body with LEDs
View attachment 183152
I still need to finish making a bracket for the action cam and the power converter for the LEDs.
It's looking like a great build man, haha love the name Rato. Whenever you can, post a video of it running that would be awesome👌
 
It's looking like a great build man, haha love the name Rato. Whenever you can, post a video of it running that would be awesome👌
I live in Minnesota and the car is setup for dry pavements. Weather has been very inconsistent so haven't been able to drive it this year yet but the new version incorporates a runcam mounted to the chassis so I'm planning on taking a lot of videos
 
I don't have a picture with it installed but this is how I did it:

I'm using a Runcam 5. I couldn't find any non 3d printed cases for it so I used a GoPro Hero 5 case, It's a tight fit but it'll work. The buckle mount is 2 sided taped to a CF plate and mounts to the upper chassis plate on the red standoffs in the picture.
20240226_073051.webp

Had to cutout most of the windshield in the body for the camera to poke through
 
Build finished and time to start re-tuning the carb. The hoons are good for speed but don't have a lot of grip, car tends to spin the tires if I get on it too hard. Already running a 19/42T mod1 combo. Can't go smaller with the spur otherwise the carb will hit the transmission. Pretty happy with how it's turned out though.

20240229_153650[1].webp

20240301_164307[1].webp

20240301_164402[1].webp
 
I don't have a picture with it installed but this is how I did it:

I'm using a Runcam 5. I couldn't find any non 3d printed cases for it so I used a GoPro Hero 5 case, It's a tight fit but it'll work. The buckle mount is 2 sided taped to a CF plate and mounts to the upper chassis plate on the red standoffs in the picture.
View attachment 183304
Had to cutout most of the windshield in the body for the camera to poke through
That's pretty badass 🤘

Build finished and time to start re-tuning the carb. The hoons are good for speed but don't have a lot of grip, car tends to spin the tires if I get on it too hard. Already running a 19/42T mod1 combo. Can't go smaller with the spur otherwise the carb will hit the transmission. Pretty happy with how it's turned out though.

View attachment 184046
View attachment 184047
View attachment 184048
Great job man I would have never expected the Rustler to look like this. Have you tried the camera yet?
 
That's pretty badass 🤘


Great job man I would have never expected the Rustler to look like this. Have you tried the camera yet?
A little bit here and there. I'm still trying to get it tuned. Weather in Minnesota is pretty inconsistent and the lack of wide open straight roads kind of makes it a struggle.
 
Yea there's been a lot of updates done on it lol. Decided to drop in a monster LRP ZR28 and swap to a LOSI gas tank. It was larger then the one I originally had and it's also more readily available. Replacement tank and parts were hard to find.

Did some more work on it the last couple of weeks. I started having some pretty severe brake fade after some hard driving and realized the push rod going to the front caliper was bending. Decided to come up with a different design and went full cable on the throttle side of the horn. Also saw that the front tires would sometimes lockup during tight corners. I realized rotor had a lot of wiggle room in the caliper so it would sometimes be sitting too close towards the center of the car and the steering rod ends would rub against it. Had to get creative and make some spacers for the inside of the rotor and on the front of the rotor towards center. I don't have any pictures of it but it's working great.

Moving to the full cable I'd have to make some changes to the chassis plate and the upper deck plate. One problem I had was the receiver box and GPS sensor had to be in a certain position on the upper deck for everything to fight right but tuning the LSN was a pain. I widened the chassis plate by about 8mm on the exhaust side so I could move the tank a little farther over, rotated the throttle servo 90 degrees, swapped steering servo to a shorty servo and it gave me just enough room for the receiver box to sit in front of the carb and makes the upper deck look a lot better.


20240609_184057[1].webp


Top speed so far is 55 but that was before the chassis rebuild and there's still plenty of tuning to do with the carb. I'll probably switch this car to SW 30% from the 25%. my LHS was out of 30 last time I went in there.
20240509_202023[1].webp
 
That is awesome! I'm thinking of putting an lrp .32 on mine. What mount did you use? And what gear setting do you have? With a .28 you should definitely reach the 60mph range for sure.
 
That is awesome! I'm thinking of putting an lrp .32 on mine. What mount did you use? And what gear setting do you have? With a .28 you should definitely reach the 60mph range for sure.
RC Renew sells a big block mount for the Jato. I went with a 19T clutch bell and a 37T spur. It's the smallest spur I could get the mesh right on because that engine is so dang big the carb hits the transmission. I'd like to find a 24T clutch bell for a big block so I could put the 54t spur on it. That way I could run it with the original gearing and get a baseline of what the car's truly capable of.
 
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