What’s the best battery connector

[Greywolf74]

For a charger look at the HOTA D6Pro and I use a combination of XT90s and Deans mainly. If you use genuine Deans Ultra plugs they will hold up fine at least through 6S. The cheap ones will not. For a soldering station Id recommend a Hakko FX888D

 

[Jamr]

One other option to think about on an new charger is battery Over Temperature Protection or the ability for the charger to stop charging before the battery overheats and bursts with flame.
If you have no idea what this could mean for you, search for "Lipo battery Fire" on Youtube.
If this interestes you look for a battery charger with a battery temp sensor.

 

[Addict Rc]

One other option to think about on an new charger is battery Over Temperature Protection or the ability for the charger to stop charging before the battery overheats and bursts with flame.
If you have no idea what this could mean for you, search for "Lipo battery Fire" on Youtube.
If this interestes you look for a battery charger with a battery temp sensor.

That’s a good idea, but I never leave my lipos, (since I have so many I only charge while wrenching and feel them every minute or two)

 

[Jerold]

The connector choice depends on what you do and what you like. I use XT60 on 3Ss stuff. Although, EC/IC connectors are solid as well and easier to solder because the terminals are removable. I also have QS8 on the speed cars, which are a pain the butt but pretty much required for the high currents.

What ever you choose makes sure it can handle the current you require otherwise they melt.

For a soldering iron/station there are three things to consider power output, temperature control and tip options.

The power output is the iron's ability to heat the tip. This matters not only with the initial heating, but it's ability to continue to provide heat while you are soldering. If you solder large wires (8WG/10WG), they absorb a lot of heat, which means more time on your wires and more time to melt other things. Look for something at lease 50-60W of output power. The 15W pencil irons are good for wires but don't work very well for anything with some mass or surface area.

The temperature does make up for lack of power in some cases. If it has a selectable power output (temp) even better. But if you have something small to solder and are using a 80W iron at 800°F, you can burn a lot of stuff quickly. The selectable temperature allows you, literally dial that back.

Replaceable and/or different tips are almoast a must. Bigger tips for bigger wires, smaller tips for smaller stuff. It's seem intuitive but trying to solder with the wrong tip is a recipe for burnt wires and connectors and having options is good thing. Also tips do wear out and spending $10 on some tips is much better than $30 on a new cheap-O iron. You can also make your own tips from solid core copper wire.

I've used Weller and Hakko brands and the are solid. There are other brands but I haven't used them. With all that said, this might be a reasonable setup. I have not used this one personally
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Weller-...th-WLIR60-Precision-Iron-WLSK6012HD/315743579

Keep some perspective

1. China doesn't care about you, they just want your money. They don't care about meeting specifications or safety standards.
2. Cheap may not last
3. You're holding a fire hazard and cheap equipment may cause injury or property damage
4. If you buy something decent you will keep it and it will last.

 

[Addict Rc]

I bought some Amass XT60’s

 

[RedondoBeachRC]

The best connector will depend on the amount of amps you anticipate the car will reach.

If you’re using stock electronics.. typically a XT60-XT90, or IC5/EC5 will handle your needs, as these will handle a 150A-250A load

If you’re speedrunning and might be seeing over 350amps you would want to consider 8mm bullets, or QS8s

 

[Beamie]

I would say that anything beyound 4S with a high "C" rating should run these guys, Babuvya High Current Antispark Connector Male and Female QS8-S Black Application with Remote Control Toys Drone Battery Charger Etc (5 Pairs) https://a.co/d/4rFR1kn

Although pricey, they can handle the heat and they are of the Anti-Spark type, as well, so when you go to connect those high current, high voltage batteries together you don't get the shock of your life.

 

[WickedFog]

I would say that anything beyound 4S with a high "C" rating should run these guys, Babuvya High Current Antispark Connector Male and Female QS8-S Black Application with Remote Control Toys Drone Battery Charger Etc (5 Pairs) https://a.co/d/4rFR1kn

Although pricey, they can handle the heat and they are of the Anti-Spark type, as well, so when you go to connect those high current, high voltage batteries together you don't get the shock of your life.

You can buy QS8's on Amain for $5.50 each.

 

[Lukedavis]

You can buy QS8's on Amain for $5.50 each.

Are the ones he listed not amass so I shouldn’t get them?

 

[WickedFog]

Are the ones he listed not amass so I shouldn’t get them?

I don't know who makes the QS8's. I do know on aliexpress you can get them a lot cheaper, but not sure of the quality. Heck, the ones Amain sells may be the exact same ones on Amazon and aliexpress for that matter. You can be the Guinea pig and find out for us

 

[Lukedavis]

I don't know who makes the QS8's. I do know on aliexpress you can get them a lot cheaper, but not sure of the quality. Heck, the ones Amain sells may be the exact same ones on Amazon and aliexpress for that matter. You can be the Guinea pig and find out for us

Will do!

 

[RustyUs]

If taking a poll... it's got to be Amass XT connectors hands down! I don't know how a person could improve on the design. They have everything an RCer person/hobbyist could ask for.

 

[RustyUs]

If your battery packs have inboard/internal bullet connectors, use whatever fancies you. I only had 4mm low profile bullets on hand. Having recently bought some LiPo packs, and didn't realize they came with 5mm inboard connectors (tubes), I did some Dr.Emeling to some 5mm male bullet pieces. I cut out a section (represented by the black area in picture) for the wires to lay at a 90* angle.

The male pieces were left over from EC5 connectors that I threw out. Sorry. Some people love 'em, but I couldn't stand those blue E-flight things.

 

[Lukedavis]

If your battery packs have inboard/internal bullet connectors, use whatever fancies you. I only had 4mm low profile bullets on hand. Having recently bought some LiPo packs, and didn't realize they came with 5mm inboard connectors (tubes), I did some Dr.Emeling to some 5mm male bullet pieces. I cut out a section (represented by the black area in picture) for the wires to lay at a 90* angle.
View attachment 162766
The male pieces were left over from EC5 connectors that I threw out. Sorry. Some people love 'em, but I couldn't stand those blue E-flight things.
View attachment 162767

Same here! I hate those e-flight connectors. The only plus that I have found is they seem to be able to handle more power that the xts

 

[Beamie]

I guess no one here, chatting on this thread, ever experienced a motor drawing more amps through it that made the connector melt or get very soft. That a potential fire hazard.

We're spending too much money and time in our RC's to see it go up in smoke. I'm just trying to highlight the points and not teach a class.

The Speedrun Guys can tell you that. The better the connection the better the flow of electricity through the circuit.

Actually, little to no connection is the best.

Some people are more anal about there wiring job then others. Depending on the project that I'm doing at the time, I can be very anal.

QS10 or QS8 connectors plating are better than other connectors just like RJ45 AMP connectors are for CAT 5 - 6 ethernet cables.

How many of you are in the IT field? If any of you are, then you'll realize that a cheap RJ45 connector can rust, oxidize, and short when exposed to high humidity, but an AMP RJ45 connector hold up a lot better in high humidity than others. That's why they're so much more expensive and rated very high up on the list.

QS10 => QS8 connectors are used in boats, scale boats, that is. That's where it is the most popular.

XT90 are my main connectors I use for 4S - 6S projects. I use XT60 connectors for 2S - 3S Mods and Upgrades unless I'm running a larger pinion for a Speedrun. Then I mive up to XT90

You know AMASS do make and sell XT150 connectors that are a lot cheaper than the QS10 => QS8. Basically they are bullet connectors.

Just make sure you use the right size wire, most important, then the right connector or adapter , and a good silver solder job for the load you're putting on your electronics.

https://top5best.com/qs8-connector?...MTos2x4wteSUejTNIHcZ1OaYryCwsx-YaAr7EEALw_wcB

 

[Lukedavis]

I guess no one here, chatting on this thread, ever experienced a motor drawing more amps through it that made the connector melt or get very soft. That a potential fire hazard.

We're spending too much money and time in our RC's to see it go up in smoke. I'm just trying to highlight the points and not teach a class.

The Speedrun Guys can tell you that. The better the connection the better the flow of electricity through the circuit.

Actually, little to no connection is the best.

Some people are more anal about there wiring job then others. Depending on the project that I'm doing at the time, I can be very anal.

QS10 or QS8 connectors plating are better than other connectors just like RJ45 AMP connectors are for CAT 5 - 6 ethernet cables.

How many of you are in the IT field? If any of you are, then you'll realize that a cheap RJ45 connector can rust, oxidize, and short when exposed to high humidity, but an AMP RJ45 connector hold up a lot better in high humidity than others. That's why they're so much more expensive and rated very high up on the list.

QS10 => QS8 connectors are used in boats, scale boats, that is. That's where it is the most popular.

XT90 are my main connectors I use for 4S - 6S projects. I use XT60 connectors for 2S - 3S Mods and Upgrades unless I'm running a larger pinion for a Speedrun. Then I mive up to XT90

You know AMASS do make and sell XT150 connectors that are a lot cheaper than the QS10 => QS8. Basically they are bullet connectors.

Just make sure you use the right size wire, most important, then the right connector or adapter , and a good silver solder job for the load you're putting on your electronics.

https://top5best.com/qs8-connector?...MTos2x4wteSUejTNIHcZ1OaYryCwsx-YaAr7EEALw_wcB

During the snowstorm in Oregon this year, I had my ec3 connector go up in flames and melt to my ic3 connector. That's why I am looking to get some of them XT90s.

 

[Beamie]

During the snowstorm in Oregon this year, I had my ec3 connector go up in flames and melt to my ic3 connector. That's why I am looking to get some of them XT90s.

That's a turn in the right direction.

 

[Greywolf74]

How many of you are in the IT field? If any of you are, then you'll realize that a cheap RJ45 connector can rust, oxidize, and short when exposed to high humidity, but an AMP RJ45 connector hold up a lot better in high humidity than others. That's why they're so much more expensive and rated very high up on the list.

Generally the cost of an RJ45 is based on different options in the connectors like whether they are shielded or not, whether they use a load bar bar or not, whether they use staggered connectors, whether its a brand name or not etc etc, not how corrosion resistant they are. The industry standard for protection against connector corrosion is to use a silicone dielectric grease or weather proof barrel connectors.

 

[Beamie]

Dieletric grease I use all of the time.As for the other stuff, it depends on the job I use.

I'm just trying to express that playing plays a big factor in the connector game.