Build Thread Tekno RC ET410.2 1/10 Scale 4WD Truggy

[RustyUs]

All caught up with RC repairs and maintenance. It's time to get this thing done. I will not be going into huge detail. I just wanted to maybe highlight somethings that I do a bit differently than what others have done with this mini truggy.

 

[RustyUs]

Bags K+L: Shocks

Let's hunt down those K & L bags.

I'm after the shock shafts and pistons. For what reason Rusty? The securing of the pistons to the shafts is done with a screw. Those screws get threadlocker on them, and I want to make sure the threadlocker has cured before I get to the part of the build that includes filling the shocks.

Just make sure to prep/clean threads, and all should be good to go.

There have been a few cases of the pistons coming undone inside the shocks. Those cases had to involve bad prepping, or possibly not snugging down the pistons enough which led to oil getting to the threadlocker before it cures.

On my ET10, by making sure threadlocker has cured, I've not had to touch the pistons since the day they were built... six years ago.

 

[RustyUs]

Bags A+B: Differentials

I like to pre-tap the diff cases when working with new plastic. I can get a better feel for when screws are bottoming out by doing this.

The stock M2.5x10mm flat head screws, that are used to join ring/spur gears to the cases, have a 1.5mm hex.

I replace all 12 of them with screws that have a 2mm hex (as shown below)... more surface area = less chance to round 'em out. Generally, not a high stress area of concern, but... it happens.

 

[Littlemotor]

Congrats on the fresh kit! Not your first rodeo either..

 

[PainKiller]

Bags A+B: Differentials

I like to pre-tap the diff cases when working with new plastic. I can get a better feel for when screws are bottoming out by doing this.
View attachment 250129

The stock M2.5x10mm flat head screws, that are used to join ring/spur gears to the cases, have a 1.5mm hex.
View attachment 250131
I replace all 12 of them with screws that have a 2mm hex (as shown below)... more surface area = less chance to round 'em out. Generally, not a high stress area of concern, but... it happens.
View attachment 250130

Missing lunula.

 

[RustyUs]

Also, I never had to sand any of my 410 platform's diff cases to better ensure a seal (knock on wood), but I do slather grease onto the gasket to hold it in place while I turn spur/ring gears upside down. Snug things down in the usual fashion with included lunulas.

Stock diff fluid thicknesses 30/30/15k for now. After break-in, I'll move to what I use in my ET410... 10/15/7k.

 

[RustyUs]

Bag C: Steering/Bulkhead Assembly

Grab that 5.5mm wrench and threadlocker...

Call me crazy, but the diff coupler set screw... RED threadlocker yes, please.

More "pre-threading" is done for straightness of steering posts...

The mesh between the diff ring and pinion gear was just awful. I had to walk away from the table after undoing/redoing the coupler a few times and still had teeth that were grinding. I come to find out a tolerance tight spot prevented bearing from going all the way against the diff pinion gear (image below on the right). I had to use a good amount of force to make it happen.

 

[RustyUs]

Bag D: Rear Bulkhead Assembly
The bearing went on the diff pinion gear without any hiccups.

Diff coupler... same as the front... RED threadlocker.

 

[RustyUs]

Bag E: Rear End Assembly

This step in the manual involves anti-sway bars...

I used them for a whole two seconds on my ET410, so back into the box they go.

Nothing to add to the manual. Straight forward with C & D blocks (hinge pin braces).

Moving on

 

[RustyUs]

Bag F: Rear Hub/CVA Assembly

The inserts for the rear hubs are notorious for breaking.

It is said that if a person glues the inserts in the hubs, this pretty much resolves the issue. For this mini, I'll play along and give it a shot, but I have backup plan if something goes wrong.

The ball studs for the camber links get the threadlocker treatment even though manual does not suggest it. For me, the nylon in lock nuts just won't cut it. I've had camber link's screws/nuts/ball studs loosen up after a hard run. They never loosened completely, but just enough that over time the screws/ball studs can wallow out hole on shock tower/camber plate if left unattended. For this reason, I use thread lock in this area of RCs when applicable. I even use red, or orange thread lock on 1/8 scale rigs

Camber Links/Turnbuckles
Some grease, a drill...

More or less, I do what is shown in the video below...

The manual says put the markings to the left. I put the turnbuckle markings to the right... just on my rides that use Tekno's turnbuckles. The threads, I kid you not, are reversed compared to every other brand I've used.
Tekno turnbuckle on top (in the picture below).
Tekno's threads are \\\\\\\\\\\------///////////
All the others are /////////------\\\\\\\\\\

 

[RustyUs]

Bag G: Front End Assembly

More anti-sway bar parts... back in the box they go. No need for them on my backyard bashing track. I could fork out the money and buy the softest/thinnest ones Tekno makes, but I'm too cheap to care for MOST rides when it comes to these anti-"things". I like my arms to be fully independent.

 

[RustyUs]

Bag H: Front Spindle/CVA Assembly

I was always under the impression that a person should "seal" carbon fiber components. The spindle arms are probably small enough, and tucked away, to not worry about delamination. Hard habits to break? CA glue it shall be.

Follow the notes in the manual and all will be well. The set screws that secure the kingpins... use a light touch on your tool (thumb and index finger) so you can better feel the set screws bottom out and you don't strip the threads.

 

[RustyUs]

Bag I: Front Camber Links & Steering Links

Little bit of grease on the threads, and a drill to build turnbuckles (see earlier post)

Again, I use threadlocker on the ball studs located on the camber plate. The constant jarring of the suspension on the track has loosened the nuts in the past. One of my favorite tools... 4-way cross wrench.

Turnbuckle markings to the right (Tekno says to put them to the left). I do this so that when I pull the turnbuckle adjustment wrench back towards the rear of the RC, the threads drawn the rod ends inwards to each other (shortening the link).

Years ago, I took Dremel and grinding wheel to the 5.5mm end of the cross wrench and made it slimmer to be able to fit in those tight places...

Lock things together...

 

[RustyUs]

Bag J: Front/Center/Rear Assembly

The chassis will flex... that's a given. Because of this flexing, there is a lot of room for the center front driveshaft to move forward and aft... too much for my liking. O-rings are placed at each end (in diff outdrives & couplers) to reduce the amount of space the driveshaft can move, but still "cushion" things should the need arises.

I swapped out the button head screws that secures the center diff support to the motor mount base. The screws that go into the motor mount base get threadlocker. Well, I destroyed a motor mount on my ET410 while trying to get a busted screw out. I used cap head screws, because they are driven by a 2.5mm hex vs. the 2mm hex for the button heads. I don't want to revisit the past.

I liked running only one rear brace on the ET410, so only the long brace will be installed on the .2 ride as well. My decision to limit center rear driveshaft movement with o-rings has not bent any driveshafts yet... knock on wood.

 

[RustyUs]

Bag K & L: Front & Rear Shock Assembly

Oh, how I love off-road RCs, and oh, how I love a great set of shocks to tackle the off-road.

I'm sure the crew at Tekno made the box stock setup for higher traction well-groomed tracks. I'm gonna soften things up for some gnarly rutted/bumpy dirt track bashin'. The pistons included for the .2 are different from the original ET410, some I'm gonna do some edumacated guessin' for shock oil. Springs are what I originally settled on for the ET410... Yellow front/Green rear.

Piston retaining screws require threadlocker. This was taken care of right after opening the box... gotta let the stuff cure.
Those x-rings... let's lube things up, and get started.

I etch the shock spring collars so I can easily see/keep track of the number of turns used when adjusting ride height.

Lefthand threaded screws go on right side of the vehicle.

 

[RustyUs]

Bag M: Final Assembly

An ultra-low budget JX CLS6322HV 21KG standard size servo is going in the baby truggy. I've had good luck with other JX servos in the past. Going against my servo buying "they must have spare gear set" principles. For $22... I had to try one. These mini truggies have no built in servo saver so you want a decent amount of torque/strong gears to keep the fun going. I run an old school Team Associated 201 oz/in servo in my ET410 for almost six years now... the thing is stupid good. The 292.46oz/in @ 7.4v JX servo... let's give it a whirl

 

[RustyUs]

Poof...

 

[RustyUs]

Speed Control

I'm having a hard time deciding on the combo to use. I originally got the Quicrun WP 10BL120 G2 combo for the ET410.2, but after falling in love with the the EZRun Max10 G2 combos used in my SCTs, I went ahead and bought the Max10 80A combo.

Not much in space saving if I decide to go with the EZRun (on the right).

 

[RustyUs]

ESC & Motor

The Hobbywing Quicrun combo won the coin toss. Not a lot of room to put things. Thinking outside the box... it'll work. Routing of the servo wires to the back of the chassis where the receiver will be (for now). Zip tie and some self-adhesive mini clips to keep wires from getting into trouble. I'm banking on the 3652 4000kv Quicrun motor having the same greatness as the discontinued EZRun 3652 4000kv.

Two layers of double sided tape for the ESC .

Cap head screws used instead of button head screws to secure brace to the motor mount base...

Attached the receiver to chassis with double sided tape. Gosh, I sure do hope the newer FlySky receivers can handle a bit of dust intake like their predecessors did (my FlySky FS-GR3 on right, opened up after years of SCT abuse)...

5mm heat sink bullet connectors...

E6000 for the On/Off switch mounted to ESC...

 

[RustyUs]

Finishing Up

Mire wiring job is as good as it's going to get without shortening the motor wires. Who knows? I may shorten them at a late date if the mood hits me.

I do have some carbon fiber bits coming in case I decide to move the receiver up front (on top of the plate shown below)...