Upgraded my T-maxx

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haha....the LRP setup is almost complete. It's been on a couple of controlled solo test runs, but will be bashing with my buddies soon enough. The "pretty" truck probably has a couple weeks before being done. It actually started as my first T-maxx build, but after running into some problems with parts, I went on to a couple other things.

what bulks/diff cases are you using on the one with the RB motor? and does your steering bellcrank hit your suspension arms? what other issues did you have and how did you solve them? also what did you use to mount your fuel tanks?
 
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what bulks/diff cases are you using on the one with the RB motor? and does your steering bellcrank hit your suspension arms? what other issues did you have and how did you solve them? also what did you use to mount your fuel tanks?

I'm using the FLM hybrids with the Hot Bodies diffs. My steering bellcrank does touch a little. My biggest issue right now is the front cvd. In 09 when I started that build, I front shaft was too long to connect the 4809 brake. The overall length of the shaft is like 62mm, but it really needs to be around 54-55mm from my measurements. I was just back in touch with Regina at FLM and she says that the FLM16055 shaft is 2.2 inches. I've stressed to her that it needs to be 55mm in TOTAL OVERALL LENGTH (measured from the outside of each ball. If that's the case, then that will complete my build. I'll probably send that RB motor to ABmods to put his finishing touches on it.

The LRP that I have on the other FLM chassis was modded by him and it's a beast. I finally got to drive it today. OMG!!!! With the 20T clutchbell and 36T spur gear it was just WILD! I don't even think I've made it into 2nd gear yet. I'm almost thinking about putting the monoblock extension on to help keep the front wheels on the ground.
 
Yes...it is amazing isn't it? I love mine, it is just ridiculous to drive. I considered having the engine modded by Robin at ERCM but I just can't see putting a lot more power into it really. Now the LRP .30 in my Savage might end up with him. That would be bad ass. I just got lucky with the front shaft I used I guess. It took a LOT of work and trial and error to finally get it to work right. I ended up using Ofna Spyder 6 gear diffs in mine and they are pretty stout. The one problem with them is they are a tiny bit narrower than the diffs you are using which is an issue if you don't have your pillow balls cranked in on the A-arms really far the CVDs can pop out. So I ruined a nice MIP outdrive CVD figuring this out....sigh. All a part of the game....lol.
 
Yes...it is amazing isn't it? I love mine, it is just ridiculous to drive. I considered having the engine modded by Robin at ERCM but I just can't see putting a lot more power into it really. Now the LRP .30 in my Savage might end up with him. That would be bad ass. I just got lucky with the front shaft I used I guess. It took a LOT of work and trial and error to finally get it to work right. I ended up using Ofna Spyder 6 gear diffs in mine and they are pretty stout. The one problem with them is they are a tiny bit narrower than the diffs you are using which is an issue if you don't have your pillow balls cranked in on the A-arms really far the CVDs can pop out. So I ruined a nice MIP outdrive CVD figuring this out....sigh. All a part of the game....lol.

Which front shaft did you end up using?
 
If you look at my thread "for those of you with 1/8 scale diffs" I show how I fixed the front shaft issue using mip cvd and savage drive cup
 
Also what are you going to do about the bellcrank hitting?
 
I used a Revo 2.5 front CVD and a drive cup off of a Hyper 9.5 I think....I don't have it here with me so it kinda hard to look. I DO know I went though about 10 different combos of shafts and drive cups before I lucked out.
 
I used a Revo 2.5 front CVD and a drive cup off of a Hyper 9.5 I think....I don't have it here with me so it kinda hard to look. I DO know I went though about 10 different combos of shafts and drive cups before I lucked out.

I see. I'm ordering the new FLM shaft today. It's 2.2 inches so that should be exactly what I need. Hopefully I'll have 2 FLM trucks to play with this weekend.

---------- Post added at 10:31 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:25 AM ----------

Also what are you going to do about the bellcrank hitting?

I'll look at that tonight and see how much it's really hitting. I'd hate to put the Dremel on it, but it seems that more and more that's been unavoidable. I guess between the Dremel and end point adjustment on the controller, I should be able to get it close. Is yours hitting really bad? I purchased the long Ofna fuel tank posts for their violater 9.5. The part number is OFN30646
 
mine is hitting pretty bad. it doesn't just rub, when the bellcrank hits it stops and there is no more movement. i could not even dremel the end of the bellcrank and get enough clearance. I'm guessing i would need about 5 or 6 mm in order for it to clear without rubbing. after looking at the bulks over and over and test fitting stock bulks i discovered that the caster angle, or the angle the suspension is at, on the flm bulks is noticably less which could be the reason the steering bellcrank hits the arm and the cause of the driveshaft issue too since the diff would be moved back a bit as well. i tried contacting flm twice last week and they never answered.

if you still have issues with your front shaft fitting or binding take a look at my thread https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=88026&page=4
 
mine is hitting pretty bad. it doesn't just rub, when the bellcrank hits it stops and there is no more movement. i could not even dremel the end of the bellcrank and get enough clearance. I'm guessing i would need about 5 or 6 mm in order for it to clear without rubbing. after looking at the bulks over and over and test fitting stock bulks i discovered that the caster angle, or the angle the suspension is at, on the flm bulks is noticably less which could be the reason the steering bellcrank hits the arm and the cause of the driveshaft issue too since the diff would be moved back a bit as well. i tried contacting flm twice last week and they never answered.

if you still have issues with your front shaft fitting or binding take a look at my thread https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=88026&page=4

I'll definitely take a look at your post. I actually ordered the drive shaft this morning. I'm guessing it will be here by the end of the week. I guess I'll give them til Friday to see when I should expect it to be in.
 
all of these trucks are very nice! Good Job Guys!
 
Talk about being frustrated......pillow balls keep coming out of the left RPM axle carrier. It's strange that I have a relatively stock t-maxx that hasn't had a problem with those carriers. Maybe it's because the steering servo is stock, but the one that's having problems is a Hitec? I said the hell with it and ordered the Tekno carriers.
 
Do you have a link to those Tekno carriers?
 
I just noticed they are a 8mm for the axle stubbs. You can use Ofna CRT X1 CVDs for the four outdrives if you wanted too since the Teknos will accept them.
 
i use the teknos with stock axles. i just ordered 2 6x16x5mm bearings from boca. they are a great match up for the maxxs front end. imho theres no better carriers then the teknos
 
i use the teknos with stock axles. i just ordered 2 6x16x5mm bearings from boca. they are a great match up for the maxxs front end. imho theres no better carriers then the teknos

Good to know!
 
Talk about being frustrated......pillow balls keep coming out of the left RPM axle carrier. It's strange that I have a relatively stock t-maxx that hasn't had a problem with those carriers. Maybe it's because the steering servo is stock, but the one that's having problems is a Hitec? I said the hell with it and ordered the Tekno carriers.

where you having probs with the rear carriers on the tru trac? are you just replacing the front carriers and keeping the tru trac rear set up?
 
I just noticed they are a 8mm for the axle stubbs. You can use Ofna CRT X1 CVDs for the four outdrives if you wanted too since the Teknos will accept them.

I saw that the other day. Since I already had a nice set of outdrives, I just got the correct outer bearings. They are definitely more beefy than the RPM's.

---------- Post added at 11:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:46 PM ----------

i use the teknos with stock axles. i just ordered 2 6x16x5mm bearings from boca. they are a great match up for the maxxs front end. imho theres no better carriers then the teknos

for sure!

---------- Post added 8-05-2011 at 12:03 AM ---------- Previous post was 8-04-2011 at 11:47 PM ----------

where you having probs with the rear carriers on the tru trac? are you just replacing the front carriers and keeping the tru trac rear set up?


Rear tru-track carriers were fine. Only replaced the fronts. Sux that the RPM carriers were brand new. I spent more time resetting the pillow balls than I did driving the truck. What a waste of money. On the other truck that I'm building, I'll be replacing the RPM front carriers with Tekno's. Might check out the Ofna CVD's even though I have a brand new set of Vantage Racing CVD's already installed.
 

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