I like my protek tools
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Team Associated B74.1D 4WD buggy build 2.0
- Thread starter DavidB1126
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Greywolf74
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Correct. Team EDS tools are made from rolled spring steel with precision ground tips just like Hudy but they cost half as much.
www.team-eds.com
you got a dead link there
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Almost ready for carpet season
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Doom!
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Wouldn't you do better with a Roomba for carpet racing?
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Back on the rug!
My run at the factory today:
Had wheel falling off issues. Because that one wheel had a stripped hex and just constantly kept running away and the nut backing off.(Even though I fully tightened them down and even loctite?) Gonna acetone these off and get new wheels since these tires only have 2 track days on em and are like new.
My run at the factory today:
Had wheel falling off issues. Because that one wheel had a stripped hex and just constantly kept running away and the nut backing off.(Even though I fully tightened them down and even loctite?) Gonna acetone these off and get new wheels since these tires only have 2 track days on em and are like new.
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Which side is the troublesome wheel/nut on?
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Left side. Which that wheel has the stripped hex. Also just using regular lock nuts from a cheap Amazon hardware kit. Gotta go through my main hardware bin and see if I can find any of the Associated low pro serrated ones.
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Somehow, I knew you were going to say, "left side." It's always the powered left side wheels that tend to have issues with wheel nuts loosening. At least for me they do... or did. For racing situations where you may have to put on/take off wheels and tires more often... sharp serrated flanged wheel nuts, and
. My "bashers", whether it's right or wrong, get the threadlocker treatment.
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Loctite helps to break the engagement between the serrated nut and the polymer wheel. Not very helpful.
Lubricating the threads allows the nut to stay mated with the wheel even if the axle moves slightly.
I have grease on all my axle threads and proper serrations on the nuts. No nyloc no loctite. Not a single nut lost or wheel fallen off with this method.
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Rebuild thread here!:
Build Thread Thread 'David's B74 Full ReBuild and restoration'
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Looks nice and clean with all black wiring besides the transponder
swapped servos to a PowerHD B5S so I can up everything to 7.4v. 0.055 speed at 7.4. Insanely fast.
Currently on a look out for 20mm esc fans bc this esc is overheating and I don't wanna risk it.
Also new replacement Factory Team 25T 18.5mm servo horn. Yay no more sloppy-ness. Was running a trx4 horn bc the original servo horn i had the clamping screw backed out and didn't have any on hand. This new revised horn has less of an offset than the old one. Probably more direct steering because of that.
swapped servos to a PowerHD B5S so I can up everything to 7.4v. 0.055 speed at 7.4. Insanely fast.
Currently on a look out for 20mm esc fans bc this esc is overheating and I don't wanna risk it.
Also new replacement Factory Team 25T 18.5mm servo horn. Yay no more sloppy-ness. Was running a trx4 horn bc the original servo horn i had the clamping screw backed out and didn't have any on hand. This new revised horn has less of an offset than the old one. Probably more direct steering because of that.
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Got 2 lightly used replacement fans from HW. Should stay cool now so I ain't worried. Will temp it next track day just in case
Reshimmed the diffs. 3 shims for the center diff on each side, no more slop. 1 shim on each side for the front diff per manual. should be ready for the rest of summer doing clay and then in the winter back to carpet for majority of the time.
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Tell me about it... lol
In case if you're wondering, the servo swap made a huge difference, switched it back to 6v as 7.4 was too much. First few runs this past weekend I made the car very twitchy but by the main I got all used to it, did mess with servo turn and return settings in my radio but haven't messed with Dual Rate yet. Will try to tune in my radio and everything in a up coming practice day.
In case if you're wondering, the servo swap made a huge difference, switched it back to 6v as 7.4 was too much. First few runs this past weekend I made the car very twitchy but by the main I got all used to it, did mess with servo turn and return settings in my radio but haven't messed with Dual Rate yet. Will try to tune in my radio and everything in a up coming practice day.
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New personal best at the carpet track! Plus a fast lap on a blown front hub bearing too! Lol
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Exposed foam = extra gripTell me about it... lol
View attachment 239055View attachment 239057
In case if you're wondering, the servo swap made a huge difference, switched it back to 6v as 7.4 was too much. First few runs this past weekend I made the car very twitchy but by the main I got all used to it, did mess with servo turn and return settings in my radio but haven't messed with Dual Rate yet. Will try to tune in my radio and everything in a up coming practice day.
It gives it a bit of a “hop”
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Your arsenal is looking sharp
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Updates: Getting ready for winter/carpet season and some changes to follow. View previous races in my race blog
Last couple races days since last updated here, got new slicks for the clay track, ole and reliable Smoothie 2 Silvers. Hooked up. But, I still have that warped front hub, I said it was the bearing but its not the bearing, I checked, its just that the plastic is warped, had this issue going on the 3rd time now so gonna upgrade to Exotek hubs, finally, since I've been saying I would be doing so for ages. Lol. And I'll also get a sway bar kit, being 1.4-1.7. Already have 1.8-2.0 sway bars, but for carpet use gonna try going up to thicker bars to tune out that body roll, or atleast try to. On clay its fine but on carpet its no bueno.
Rebuilds, if any, probably won't do them right now as I rebuilt all of that back in April and only did like 4 track days since so not really needed.
Although, want to get into some tuning, timing and gearing changes.
I've been running 21/78 gearing for the longest time now and the past 2 race days I started to realize that my 2wd down the back straight is faster than this buggy, and with the pinion being super low, FDR is all over the place, not near the recommended FDR at all, thats why its super punchy out of the corners but sluggish on the straight. Motor timing I plan to leave on factory 43 degrees, only would tune it if motor heat becomes an issue. ESC timing so plan on messing with that just to see what it does but for racing ill have that disabled. Gearing changes, planning on sticking with the 78 spur, but moving up to a 25 or 26T pinion. Mostly everyone at both carpet tracks and the clay track runs that or near that gear combo so should be sped up with that next track day. I will also order a bunch of pinions just for tuning. getting 22-25T (4wd range) and 27, and 29-31 (mostly 2wd range of gearing). can't remember what pinions I ordered last time but lightweight anodized aluminum pinions would be better than steel for the racers right? Pinions are mostly the same across all brands but I use ProTek or Robinson Racing gears mostly.
Oh yea last race day I did blew out yet another 20mm hw esc fan. On my last fan now, and I put 2 zip ties around the fan so the blade shouldn't randomly hit the eject button now.
Bc trying to find a small fan blade like that on a big track just to pop back in the fan case, is near impossible. Unless you paint the fan white and I were running on black crc carpet at the time it did eject. 
Setup/tire wise for the carpet season, just got new tires, Promotion Viper C3/mediums. Previously ran fuzz bites which are getting old/worn down. Ran C3 vipers on the 2wd and liked how they drove so Ill test them out on here. Shouldn't be as edgy/pushy as the fuzz bites, and they are medium so wear is better, should last longer. On my 2wd set I have 4 track days on em, still look like new so thats good. They do have C4/soft Vipers now but only for buggy rear and 2wd front, not yet for 4wd front yet, I kinda liked the pushy-ness of the fuzz bites but I guess running an aggressive rear tire and not so aggressive front tire in 4wd is the norm. Seen most run fuzz bite rear and pin swag fronts, in Jconcepts terms since that's what I know best lol.
Last couple races days since last updated here, got new slicks for the clay track, ole and reliable Smoothie 2 Silvers. Hooked up. But, I still have that warped front hub, I said it was the bearing but its not the bearing, I checked, its just that the plastic is warped, had this issue going on the 3rd time now so gonna upgrade to Exotek hubs, finally, since I've been saying I would be doing so for ages. Lol. And I'll also get a sway bar kit, being 1.4-1.7. Already have 1.8-2.0 sway bars, but for carpet use gonna try going up to thicker bars to tune out that body roll, or atleast try to. On clay its fine but on carpet its no bueno.
Rebuilds, if any, probably won't do them right now as I rebuilt all of that back in April and only did like 4 track days since so not really needed.
Although, want to get into some tuning, timing and gearing changes.
I've been running 21/78 gearing for the longest time now and the past 2 race days I started to realize that my 2wd down the back straight is faster than this buggy, and with the pinion being super low, FDR is all over the place, not near the recommended FDR at all, thats why its super punchy out of the corners but sluggish on the straight. Motor timing I plan to leave on factory 43 degrees, only would tune it if motor heat becomes an issue. ESC timing so plan on messing with that just to see what it does but for racing ill have that disabled. Gearing changes, planning on sticking with the 78 spur, but moving up to a 25 or 26T pinion. Mostly everyone at both carpet tracks and the clay track runs that or near that gear combo so should be sped up with that next track day. I will also order a bunch of pinions just for tuning. getting 22-25T (4wd range) and 27, and 29-31 (mostly 2wd range of gearing). can't remember what pinions I ordered last time but lightweight anodized aluminum pinions would be better than steel for the racers right? Pinions are mostly the same across all brands but I use ProTek or Robinson Racing gears mostly.
Oh yea last race day I did blew out yet another 20mm hw esc fan. On my last fan now, and I put 2 zip ties around the fan so the blade shouldn't randomly hit the eject button now.
Bc trying to find a small fan blade like that on a big track just to pop back in the fan case, is near impossible. Unless you paint the fan white and I were running on black crc carpet at the time it did eject. Setup/tire wise for the carpet season, just got new tires, Promotion Viper C3/mediums. Previously ran fuzz bites which are getting old/worn down. Ran C3 vipers on the 2wd and liked how they drove so Ill test them out on here. Shouldn't be as edgy/pushy as the fuzz bites, and they are medium so wear is better, should last longer. On my 2wd set I have 4 track days on em, still look like new so thats good. They do have C4/soft Vipers now but only for buggy rear and 2wd front, not yet for 4wd front yet, I kinda liked the pushy-ness of the fuzz bites but I guess running an aggressive rear tire and not so aggressive front tire in 4wd is the norm. Seen most run fuzz bite rear and pin swag fronts, in Jconcepts terms since that's what I know best lol.
Last edited:
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Oh yea. Definitely dialed
New Left Front steering hub/block
1.7 front 1.8 rear (for sway bars, should be better now to tune out that body roll, for carpet)
Cleaned up shocks
Mounted fresh Viper C3s
Chassis protector
And all 4 corners have carbon (stiff) arms.
1.7 front 1.8 rear (for sway bars, should be better now to tune out that body roll, for carpet)
Cleaned up shocks
Mounted fresh Viper C3s
Chassis protector
And all 4 corners have carbon (stiff) arms.
I was going to replace the Right block aswell but the caster hat bushings in the old block was basically like seized into the plastic so Ill have to get a new pair of those, and also a shock standoff on that rear right shock. You see the difference in shape, although it does still technically work.
On the sway bars, I found a setup on SoDialed and he was running 1.7/1.8 f/r so I told myself it should be a good starting point and I can go up to 1.8/1.9 or even 1.9/2.0 if needed. Or go thinner sway bar and go to maybe 45wt in the front shocks?
I run 40/35wt right now. Red/Blue for the...
On the sway bars, I found a setup on SoDialed and he was running 1.7/1.8 f/r so I told myself it should be a good starting point and I can go up to 1.8/1.9 or even 1.9/2.0 if needed. Or go thinner sway bar and go to maybe 45wt in the front shocks?
I run 40/35wt right now. Red/Blue for the...
