Stampede 4x4 VXL

[Sledgehog]

Yep. Same part #. I tried putting them in a couple 2075's I took out of my brushless revo when I got it. I never used them, but figured beefing them up and throwing them in a box and they could get used in my ejato or stampede 4x4, but they labor so much that they are kind of useless. I even tried putting green slime on the outputshaft/o-ring then putting them back together. Both of them did the same thing.

Well there's always the traxxas replacement as well. it's a lil' more but comes with their cheap ass servo grease too I guess. But for $20 you can probably buy a whole new metal servo that's better all around than these trx pieces of you-know-what.

https://www.ebay.com/p/Traxxas-Gear-Set-Metal-for-2070-or-2075-Servos-2072x-Tra2072x/2196439039

 

[Slick2500]

So I was messing around with the Hobbwing LED program card on this esc and it has a 7.4v bec. Seriously not expecting that from a rtr esc especially a Redcat one to boot. Does anyone know if the Traxxas 5 channel receiver can handle 7.4v?

So I tried to Google this and could only find people saying that the manual says 6.0v but nothing if anyone has actually tried it. Has anyone tried running 7.4v through the stock Traxxas 6518 rx?

 

[olds97_lss]

Couldn't find anything on the traxxas forum about it... yes, I still visit there. lol!

All I could find was that "it is rated for 6VDC" and some guy said he ran it up to 8.4V on his bench and it still functioned, but doesn't know how long it can take that. So... if your willing to gamble the $22 it will cost you to replace it on ebay... try it and post up the results.

 

[Slick2500]

Couldn't find anything on the traxxas forum about it... yes, I still visit there. lol!

All I could find was that "it is rated for 6VDC" and some guy said he ran it up to 8.4V on his bench and it still functioned, but doesn't know how long it can take that. So... if your willing to gamble the $22 it will cost you to replace it on ebay... try it and post up the results.

Yeah that was all I could find too........ and if it fried I would just sell the Tx and buy another eBay "Spektrum" SR3100 receiver for $16.00 and bind it to my DX5C, those are rated for 9.6v.

 

[olds97_lss]

Yeah that was all I could find too........ and if it fried I would just sell the Tx and buy another eBay "Spektrum" SR3100 receiver for $16.00 and bind it to my DX5C, those are rated for 9.6v.

Sounds like the route to take anyway.

 

[Slick2500]

New body and tires.
Proline 2.8 Trenchers.
Proline 66 Ford F100.
Tamiya PS-14 Copper paint.

 

[olds97_lss]

That paintjob looks nice!

 

[Slick2500]

I was having a nice discussion with @olds97_lss on a different forum and I was complaining that I needed to buy new batteries because the pair of 3s 5500 Ovonics were too long to fit in the pede and he convinced me to the monster slash conversion.

So I went from this.

To this.

And since my front caster blocks were all wore out I decided to again take @olds97_lss advice and bought the GPM Racing caster blocks as they have bearings where the hubs ride instead of just the screw going through them.

Next mods are going to be MIP driveshafts to replace the eBay cheapos, the eBay cheapos aren't bad they have just wore down over the past few years and will need to be replaced soon, and some GTR shocks, because the eBay cheapos are rather meh, they are a pain to bleed and they leak a little bit.

 

[olds97_lss]

I was having a nice discussion with @olds97_lss on a different forum and I was complaining that I needed to buy new batteries because the pair of 3s 5500 Ovonics were too long to fit in the pede and he convinced me to the monster slash conversion.

So I went from this.
View attachment 122336

To this.
View attachment 122337View attachment 122338

And since my front caster blocks were all wore out I decided to again take @olds97_lss advice and bought the GPM Racing caster blocks as they have bearings where the hubs ride instead of just the screw going through them.
View attachment 122339

Next mods are going to be MIP driveshafts to replace the eBay cheapos, the eBay cheapos aren't bad they have just wore down over the past few years and will need to be replaced soon, and some GTR shocks, because the eBay cheapos are rather meh, they are a pain to bleed and they leak a little bit.

Did you get my last message about the lower axle carrier bolts I used, think they were 55mm 12.9 3mm bolts with a locknut on the back and a 1.5-2mm spacer. The unthreaded portion of the bolt stuck out just a bit on the back side. Could also just use a few washer stacked up, but I had the spacers. I hated that the one end wasn't captured by anything and the stock screws constantly walking out.

 

[Slick2500]

Did you get my last message about the lower axle carrier bolts I used, think they were 55mm 12.9 3mm bolts with a locknut on the back and a 1.5-2mm spacer. The unthreaded portion of the bolt stuck out just a bit on the back side. Could also just use a few washer stacked up, but I had the spacers. I hated that the one end wasn't captured by anything and the stock screws constantly walking out.

Yup I saw that, I'll have to get some ordered. And yeah when I went to change them out the one side the screw was barely hanging in there.

 

[olds97_lss]

Yup I saw that, I'll have to get some ordered. And yeah when I went to change them out the one side the screw was barely hanging in there.

I just did the same thing with my rear ones as I installed the new traxxas HD arms to replace the RPM ones. Hoping this helps my upper inside ball ends from popping off constantly. They still seem very flexible, though not quite as much as the RPM ones. I left the RPM arms on the front... ran out of ambition after fighting with the stupid pins in the rear carriers and having the c-clips shatter and/or fly off into my carpet to never be seen again... I don't have the issue as much on the front, but upon inspection, my front RPM arms are really bowed.

 

[BobP]

if you run the left side axle screw from the front it will stay tight.

 

[olds97_lss]

if you run the left side axle screw from the front it will stay tight.

Would rather they are captured on the front/rear, especially with softer than stock arms as they have a tendency to flex/rip out.

 

[BobP]

Would rather they are captured on the front/rear, especially with softer than stock arms as they have a tendency to flex/rip out.

with aluminum I agree but with the RPM or plastic replacement parts if you run it from the front when the a-arm comes up it will actually tighten the screw instead of loosening it

 

[Slick2500]

Someone forgot to check their order before hitting buy it now.....
Traxxas GTR shocks and VG Racing springs.

 

[olds97_lss]

with aluminum I agree but with the RPM or plastic replacement parts if you run it from the front when the a-arm comes up it will actually tighten the screw instead of loosening it

Staying tight wasn't a huge issue. The issue was there isn't anything holding the pin from outside the arm on one side, so in a bad landing, the arm flexes and bends far enough to rip the pin out of the unthreaded side. At least for me with RPM arms. Didn't have a huge issue with it with stock arms, I just kept breaking them.

So far I am liking the traxxas HD cold weather arms. A good blend of flex/stiffness.

 

[olds97_lss]

Someone forgot to check their order before hitting buy it now.....
Traxxas GTR shocks and VG Racing springs.
View attachment 123687

Oops.

 

[Slick2500]

Out with the old eBay shocks and Slash 2 gear center diff, in with the GTRs and Hoss 4 gear center diff.

Also replaced the Hobbywing Max10 SCT rtr 80a esc with a Hexfly Hex10 esc. Still waiting on my new servo.

Next up is to get rid of the eBay driveshafts probably going to go with Hoss shafts.

 

[olds97_lss]

Looks nice!

Unless your really looking, the blue on the front shocks doesn't stand out much. The blue springs on all 4 corners kind of hides it.

 

[Slick2500]

Finally have an excuse to buy new a arms, only god knows how old these a arms are.