Stampede 4x4 VXL

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The MIP drive shafts are the best for durability. Read the Traxxas Slash 4x4 forums, it has more people and more expertise than the Stampede forums and they are the same vehicle except for the chassis and a few other parts. Stampede 4x4 VXL was my first car, followed by LCG Slash 4x4. Both of these cars are a terrible value. The stock tires are garbage, they come unglued almost instantly. Quality tires will set you back $70. The stock drive shafts last about 10 seconds on 3s. Quality drive shafts set you back at least $100. The stock shocks are garbage, they cannot be adjusted easily or fully and the tops pop off. Quality shocks and springs cost another $100. Running on 3s with stock gearing will overheat the motor and ESC, you will need to add a heatsink and fans on the motor and a ESC fan, which costs another $40. The stock body and body mount system is absolute garbage and will last for about 1 hour of bashing. You will need a new body and if you want to adjust the height or have it last you will also need the proline mounts and shoe goo the body, all of this is another $50. The car alone cost $400, with the required upgrades to have a decent machine capable of running 3s your now looking at $760, and the the thing will still overheat if you gear it for faster than ~40 MPH. Also the Stampede has a high center of gravity chassis, which results in terrible handling and constant traction rolling. The only thing its good for is going in straight lines and jumping. I wish I would have known to avoid Traxxas 10th scale cars.... it would have saved me a lot of money. I now have a $500 Notorious and out of the box it blows away my Slash and Stampede that are both cost about $1,000 in parts. To be fair the E-revo 2.0 also provides much better bang for your buck than 10th scale Traxxas cars and it would be a pretty nice car if it didn't have a ton of problems, maybe Traxxas will fix them, but thats like saying maybe Traxxas will stop selling 10th scale 4x4 brushless cars that claim 60 MPH but have drive shafts that snap instantly if you go 40 MPH (they have been doing it for nearly a decade now). The new Rustler 4x4 has some good improvements including stronger plastic drive shafts but I've still heard that they break very quickly on 3s.

Edit: I forgot to mention the stock stampede axle carriers (front and rear) become malformed very quickly resulting in major wheel slop, add another $100 to replace all of them with aluminum.
 
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The MIP drive shafts are the best for durability. Read the Traxxas Slash 4x4 forums, it has more people and more expertise than the Stampede forums and they are the same vehicle except for the chassis and a few other parts. Stampede 4x4 VXL was my first car, followed by LCG Slash 4x4. Both of these cars are a terrible value. The stock tires are garbage, they come unglued almost instantly. Quality tires will set you back $70. The stock drive shafts last about 10 seconds on 3s. Quality drive shafts set you back at least $100. The stock shocks are garbage, they cannot be adjusted easily or fully and the tops pop off. Quality shocks and springs cost another $100. Running on 3s with stock gearing will overheat the motor and ESC, you will need to add a heatsink and fans on the motor and a ESC fan, which costs another $40. The stock body and body mount system is absolute garbage and will last for about 1 hour of bashing. You will need a new body and if you want to adjust the height or have it last you will also need the proline mounts and shoe goo the body, all of this is another $50. The car alone cost $400, with the required upgrades to have a decent machine capable of running 3s your now looking at $760, and the the thing will still overheat if you gear it for faster than ~40 MPH. Also the Stampede has a high center of gravity chassis, which results in terrible handling and constant traction rolling. The only thing its good for is going in straight lines and jumping. I wish I would have known to avoid Traxxas 10th scale cars.... it would have saved me a lot of money. I now have a $500 Notorious and out of the box it blows away my Slash and Stampede that are both cost about $1,000 in parts. To be fair the E-revo 2.0 also provides much better bang for your buck than 10th scale Traxxas cars and it would be a pretty nice car if it didn't have a ton of problems, maybe Traxxas will fix them, but thats like saying maybe Traxxas will stop selling 10th scale 4x4 brushless cars that claim 60 MPH but have drive shafts that snap instantly if you go 40 MPH (they have been doing it for nearly a decade now). The new Rustler 4x4 has some good improvements including stronger plastic drive shafts but I've still heard that they break very quickly on 3s.

Edit: I forgot to mention the stock stampede axle carriers (front and rear) become malformed very quickly resulting in major wheel slop, add another $100 to replace all of them with aluminum.
The only reason I bought it is because it was $100. Kind of like my 2pede, only reason I bought that was because it was $45. No way in hell would I buy either new them new.
So far including what I paid for the truck I have like $280 in it.

That looks soooo much better. I wonder how deep the dye penetrates and what it will look like when it gets scratched up though.
Idk I let it simmer for like 20 minutes

The MIP drive shafts are the best for durability. Read the Traxxas Slash 4x4 forums, it has more people and more expertise than the Stampede forums and they are the same vehicle except for the chassis and a few other parts. Stampede 4x4 VXL was my first car, followed by LCG Slash 4x4. Both of these cars are a terrible value. The stock tires are garbage, they come unglued almost instantly. Quality tires will set you back $70. The stock drive shafts last about 10 seconds on 3s. Quality drive shafts set you back at least $100. The stock shocks are garbage, they cannot be adjusted easily or fully and the tops pop off. Quality shocks and springs cost another $100. Running on 3s with stock gearing will overheat the motor and ESC, you will need to add a heatsink and fans on the motor and a ESC fan, which costs another $40. The stock body and body mount system is absolute garbage and will last for about 1 hour of bashing. You will need a new body and if you want to adjust the height or have it last you will also need the proline mounts and shoe goo the body, all of this is another $50. The car alone cost $400, with the required upgrades to have a decent machine capable of running 3s your now looking at $760, and the the thing will still overheat if you gear it for faster than ~40 MPH. Also the Stampede has a high center of gravity chassis, which results in terrible handling and constant traction rolling. The only thing its good for is going in straight lines and jumping. I wish I would have known to avoid Traxxas 10th scale cars.... it would have saved me a lot of money. I now have a $500 Notorious and out of the box it blows away my Slash and Stampede that are both cost about $1,000 in parts. To be fair the E-revo 2.0 also provides much better bang for your buck than 10th scale Traxxas cars and it would be a pretty nice car if it didn't have a ton of problems, maybe Traxxas will fix them, but thats like saying maybe Traxxas will stop selling 10th scale 4x4 brushless cars that claim 60 MPH but have drive shafts that snap instantly if you go 40 MPH (they have been doing it for nearly a decade now). The new Rustler 4x4 has some good improvements including stronger plastic drive shafts but I've still heard that they break very quickly on 3s.

Edit: I forgot to mention the stock stampede axle carriers (front and rear) become malformed very quickly resulting in major wheel slop, add another $100 to replace all of them with aluminum.
You seem to be very familiar with these trucks, and I am pretty clueless as to how to find out what esc you need for a specific motor. Couple of questions for you. I have a Hobbywing RTR WP10BL50 esc (bought it for $20 off eBay for another project and the esc was too big) and one of these motors https://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Perfo...795401&hash=item3d6dae2200:g:IjYAAOSwYSBbVhx~. First question that I can't really seem to find an answer to is will this combo work together? Second question is will it work better than the VXL setup for the 4Pede? Or can you recommend an esc, that won't break the bank, that will work with that motor in the 4Pede?
 
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Personally, I'd want a 80a for a 3665 motor, maybe even a 100a. 50a would be good for a low kv 3650, but the bigger motors eat bigger amps.
 
The 10BL50 has 14ga wire for me with the larger motors (3660 and up) I would want 12ga wires with the power they use and can draw. If you just go by amps then you should be able to use even a cheap TSKY blue 120a (Hobbywing clone) sensored esc right I would not even want to try with a larger can motor. All things supposeably being equal (rpms per volt) the VXL at 3500kv with the same gearing, same battery as the 3665 3100kv the VXL will be faster (more rpms per volt). One difference the 3665 3100kv should run cooler and could be geared to achieve the same speed.

A bigger motor will run cooler but will put more wear and tear on other parts. I would run the VXL until it can't run no more then worry about running the bigger motor. If the esc goes into thermal shutdown before the motor gets really hot try a Hobbwing SC8 or Max10 120a esc. If anything the SC8 or Max10 can be used with the 3665 motor. Better to have more (bigger) esc than needed then to not have enough.
 
Something else to think about -

The GoolRC combos come with the smallest ESC that will almost work with their motors. They make 45a,60a,80a,120a. The GoolRC / Racerstar 3660 combo (smaller motor than yours) I just bought came with a 80a ESC (bigger ESC than yours.)

.02
 
Something else to think about -

The GoolRC combos come with the smallest ESC that will almost work with their motors. They make 45a,60a,80a,120a. The GoolRC / Racerstar 3660 combo (smaller motor than yours) I just bought came with a 80a ESC (bigger ESC than yours.)

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This ^^^

Some of the combos come with inadequate escs (not handle the max potential of the motor). I have to laugh and get mad when people complain when smoking say a 60a esc on 3s with a motor than can pull 80 amps or more on 3s. Gee I wonder why your Castle sidewinder esc will thermal while running a 5700kv motor on 3s.

The cheap escs can work just know the limits of the esc and the current (amp) draw the motor can be expected to pull per used voltage.
 
Brother in law got one recently and I kept breaking it for him and fixing/ upgrading it. Rpm bumper, revo slipper, tekno rear shafts, new steering servo, alum shock caps. Glued one tire back on so far as well but after all that it is pretty stout now.
 
Woops lol.
mX9VFocl.jpg
 
Do you mean just the motor or the stampede in general?
The truck in general, first run snapped a stock driveshaft, second run stripped the spur then this happened on the third run. Idk if I should even bother trying to get the magnet out of the can.

I do have another Traxxas Velineon 3500kv brushless motor that I can use.
 
The truck in general, first run snapped a stock driveshaft, second run stripped the spur then this happened on the third run. Idk if I should even bother trying to get the magnet out of the can.

I do have another Traxxas Velineon 3500kv brushless motor that I can use.
All I can tell you is in my experience. The motor lasted only 5months the esc went first a few weeks earlier. The drive shafts lasted not even 2 packs. I upgraded the drive shafts mip in the front and the upgraded Traxxas ones in the rear I personally like the upgraded Traxxas ones better. Rpm a arms in the front have stock ones still in the rear same as the towers. I did make a t2t brace which helped save the truck. I’m running a castle creations 4600kv which is not good for the stampede. I know it’s a high kv but with no knowledge I was told that that motor will work good just adjust the pinion. Even with the smallest pinion it still overheated on 3s but man it is super fast on 3s. I now gave it to my 5 year old and only run it on 2s and it’s awesome. I also upgraded the shocks to the Traxxas big bores which are awesome saved over $30 Canadian buying it on amazon. Also went through a few spur gears and bearings. The bearings is most likely my fault cause I drove it in the snow with out proper care. It lasts longer than my outcast without breaking something but I do send my outcast way up and out which I can not do with my stampede
 
All I can tell you is in my experience. The motor lasted only 5months the esc went first a few weeks earlier. The drive shafts lasted not even 2 packs. I upgraded the drive shafts mip in the front and the upgraded Traxxas ones in the rear I personally like the upgraded Traxxas ones better. Rpm a arms in the front have stock ones still in the rear same as the towers. I did make a t2t brace which helped save the truck. I’m running a castle creations 4600kv which is not good for the stampede. I know it’s a high kv but with no knowledge I was told that that motor will work good just adjust the pinion. Even with the smallest pinion it still overheated on 3s but man it is super fast on 3s. I now gave it to my 5 year old and only run it on 2s and it’s awesome. I also upgraded the shocks to the Traxxas big bores which are awesome saved over $30 Canadian buying it on amazon. Also went through a few spur gears and bearings. The bearings is most likely my fault cause I drove it in the snow with out proper care. It lasts longer than my outcast without breaking something but I do send my outcast way up and out which I can not do with my stampede
I am going to get mip driveshafts, Traxxas GTR shocks, Hot Racing Spur, an aluminum motor mount, Rpm a arms all around and something like this to power it https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hobbywing-...=item2146709a25:g:wD4AAOSwLVFbgG38:rk:14:pf:0
 
I run the castle sct sv3/3800kv in my stampede. Just ran it pretty hard yesterday for 4 3S packs with 11/54 gearing. It has 2.8" trenchers on it, which are a bit larger diameter than stock tires. Up until now, I ran 2S on it with 13/52 gearing. It was only 55F outside yesterday. The esc got up to 90F and the motor 115F. I ran the packs back to back for 2 runs at a couple skate parks. Seemed to do ok. Totally sketchy driving that thing at WOT now though. lol!

One of the hobbystar packs doesn't seem to be as good as the other. I bought them specifically for this truck, 3S 5200 45C. I get about 18 minutes run time on one and it's punchy up until 16-17 minutes. The other seemed very flat after only a few minutes then LVC eventually kicked in at 13 minutes. Did the same both times I used it yesterday.
 
I am going to get mip driveshafts, Traxxas GTR shocks, Hot Racing Spur, an aluminum motor mount, Rpm a arms all around and something like this to power it https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hobbywing-...=item2146709a25:g:wD4AAOSwLVFbgG38:rk:14:pf:0

Another one down the Traxxas rabbit hole tell me if you have not heard this before from some Traxxas owners I am going to buy this than upgrade to that just do yourself a favor and never look back at the cost if your like me it will make you pissed but that just me.
 
I am going to get mip driveshafts, Traxxas GTR shocks, Hot Racing Spur, an aluminum motor mount, Rpm a arms all around and something like this to power it https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hobbywing-...=item2146709a25:g:wD4AAOSwLVFbgG38:rk:14:pf:0
Not sure if by "motor mount" if your talking about the big piece or just the plate the motor screws to. The big piece that carries the spur bearing is a good upgrade. Make sure to get one that runs the larger bearing than stock. I have the king headz (I think) one in mine. Haven't had a bearing die since the install. Before that, I was frying stock bearings every other weekend. On 2S!

I also have the heavy duty traxxas plate that mounts on the motor. MIP x-duty cvd's all around, RPM arms, t-bone front bumper, atomic front axle carriers and rear axle carriers and hot racing steering assembly. I haven't gotten the GTR's yet, but I intend to at some point.
 
Not sure if by "motor mount" if your talking about the big piece or just the plate the motor screws to. The big piece that carries the spur bearing is a good upgrade. Make sure to get one that runs the larger bearing than stock. I have the king headz (I think) one in mine. Haven't had a bearing die since the install. Before that, I was frying stock bearings every other weekend. On 2S!

I also have the heavy duty traxxas plate that mounts on the motor. MIP x-duty cvd's all around, RPM arms, t-bone front bumper, atomic front axle carriers and rear axle carriers and hot racing steering assembly. I haven't gotten the GTR's yet, but I intend to at some point.

Yeah I meant that plastic mount, I'm going to get the King Headz mount as that seemed to have the best reviews and everyone recommends that mount.
 
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