Side Mission: Replica Team Associated SC10 Mudflaps

[Spksh]

I'm refurbishing (rehabilitating?) a couple of original Team Associated SC10s, and the original mudflaps are always beat to heck, if they're still attached at all.

And I'm not paying these kinds of prices:

So, given modern desktop fabrication technology, what do we do? Well, first we whip up some vectors, and then we use a vinyl cutter to test fit with paper.

Then we grab some 1.5mm silicone sheet from AliExpress and do a few more passes with the blade at a very low pressure.

And let's throw some laser engraving in just for fun.

I don't love the look of rubber on rubber for the top "bracket". It's OK, but doesn't have a scale feel, you know? Having them as one piece of silicone is likely an artifact of reducing manufacturing costs, but it makes them tear easily too.

But I do like the look of 1mm 3d printed brackets, and they'll probably last a bit longer. I haven't finalized how I'll fix them together - maybe just silicone glue?

I'm loving the prototype, so I played with some other engraving patterns to see what worked.

I don't love the border I left with the relief (skull and crossbones) because you need perfect alignment to make it look right, and relieving with the laser takes a lot longer and generates way more mess. So I think I'll stick with engraving, and I'm really liking the repeating pattern ones over the single logo design.

I've got some 1mm silicone sheet coming, and I'll try cutting the brackets out of that as a test too. The originals are about 3.25mm thick, and layering 3x 1.5mm feels too thick and heavy, and that may be why I'm liking the 3d printed versions more; they're closer to the originals in thickness.

This gives me confidence that I can replace the SC10 mudflaps with my own "aftermarket" creations without paying vintage prices.

 

[Beer_Goggles_RC]

Those are legit! Great job

 

[Spksh]

Those are legit! Great job

Thank you! The problem now is that I just want to keep making mudflaps and not progress the real build

 

[Beer_Goggles_RC]

Thank you! The problem now is that I just want to keep making mudflaps and not progress the real build

Looks like theyre going for about $40 used on ebay you might be able to make a little cash off these

 

[Spksh]

Looks like theyre going for about $40 used on ebay you might be able to make a little cash off these

I like the cut of your jib. Buying stuff from eBay with sales you've made on eBay counts as recycling, right?

 

[CertifiedMike]

I like the cut of your jib. Buying stuff from eBay with sales you've made on eBay counts as recycling, right?

A FINE EXAMPLE of sound and solid RC logic at work here folks!!!

 

[luke66]

You could sell these for a lot less and make enough to pay for all your SC10 builds lol

They look great!

 

[Spksh]

A FINE EXAMPLE of sound and solid RC logic at work here folks!!!

Zero-waste economics!

 

[Spksh]

You could sell these for a lot less and make enough to pay for all your SC10 builds lol

They look great!

Thank you! I might just test the market, once I'm happy with the process.

 

[CertifiedMike]

You should make an oversized flap that ppl can clip to their pants or belt.
I know a few ppl who could use an assflap!

I bet the 'Kick Me!!!!' Model would be a best seller!!!

 

[RustyUs]

Mud flaps rule!

 

[Spksh]

Still waiting for my 1mm silicone, but in the meantime lets try some adhesive.

Sticky.

And12 hours later, we can peel it all right off...

Silicone doesn't like to stick to anything, and I didn't key the surface at all. Plus, full cure time is 24 hours. So maybe I didn't set myself up for success here, but glue is always messy and having a more positive mechanical connection is probably the real answer.

The 3d printed brackets could snap together through the screw holes...

 

[CertifiedMike]

Still waiting for my 1mm silicone, but in the meantime lets try some adhesive.
View attachment 252421

Sticky.
View attachment 252422
View attachment 252423

And12 hours later, we can peel it all right off...
View attachment 252424

Silicone doesn't like to stick to anything, and I didn't key the surface at all. Plus, full cure time is 24 hours. So maybe I didn't set myself up for success here, but glue is always messy and having a more positive mechanical connection is probably the real answer.

The 3d printed brackets could snap together through the screw holes...

If RTV didn't work, they simply can't be bonded!
Maybe mechanical fasteners would be better. The flaps take some abuse.

 

[Spksh]

If RTV didn't work, they simply can't be bonded!
Maybe mechanical fasteners would be better. The flaps take some abuse.

I will try again, after prepping the surface properly

 

[Spksh]

Two steps forward, three (?) steps back. First, let's print the brackets with integrated pegs.

And let's score at least one of the glue surfaces.

Where's Waldo (my mistakes)?

First, I didn't exclude the bracket cut-out from the glue scoring. You can see the nice diagonal lines through the gap. Second, my tolerances for the pegs was off, so I resorted to pliers, and well, you can see the result.

And third, most annoying, is that I haven't actually tried to screw these to the bumper before now. I'm a whole millimeter short. I'm very glad I have a (mostly) parametric model, but it does mean I have to reprint and re-cut everything.

 

[Beer_Goggles_RC]

A lot of work but they're gonna be killer when you finish. I think they look great as is. By being short do you mean the screw holes dont line up?

 

[Spksh]

A lot of work but they're gonna be killer when you finish. I think they look great as is. By being short do you mean the screw holes dont line up?

Thanks!

Yeah, the screw holes in the bumper are 30mm centers, and I worked off a flatbed scan of the kit rubber mudflap which has 29mm centers; possibly shrinkage after the molding process, possibly a design feature to hold them taut.

 

[Doom!]

Practice makes perfect.

 

[Spksh]

Practice makes perfect.

Yes. Practice. That's what it is. Not "playing with expensive toys"

 

[Spksh]

Redesigned the connector pin so it snaps together. The joining surfaces are like a third of a millimeter thick, so you only get one snap. Better make it count! The through-holes now line up with the bumper.

I printed this in grey ASA just to see if there would be any difference in snappiness. Also still using the 29mm hole spacing on the flaps I made earlier today, and hey look the rubber stretches.

1mm ASA is pretty bendy, and without glue there's a gap. Even when it's screwed in. Lever effect in action! Potentially this is not helped by stretching the rubber to match the 30mm hole spacing. We'll fix the spacing on the next revision of the flaps.

Let's try that RTV glue-up again, now that I've scored one side.