Build Thread Beer Goggle’s Nitro Drag Slash build

[Beer_Goggles_RC]

I am creating this thread to share the conversion of my Nitro Slash to a Nitro Drag Slash

I picked up this Nitro Slash on Facebook market place for a deal that I couldn’t pass up.

My plan originally was to run this car at my local 1/8 off road track, but I have plenty of other cars to run there already. After finding this forum I saw a few posts of other Nitro Drag Slashes and figured this could be a very fun and very cool build.

Though I’ve owned a Losi 22 and built an Associated DR10 kit, I only used these vehicles for play and have ZERO no prep knowledge or experience. I will likely be reaching out to the no prep community quite often for help and advice with this build.

I’d like to take this build one step at a time. My current plan is to do 10 132’ passes with each upgrade and post my best result. Possibly even some posts with no upgrades to the car at all, just experimenting with weather, surface types, and most importantly, knowledge and skill upgrades.

 

[WickedFog]

Looks like a fun project. @johnnydmd can probably give you a few pointers.

 

[Beer_Goggles_RC]

Day 1: Stock passes to create a baseline

Today I performed passes to set my baseline. I can use this as a gauge for a performance increase from my next upgrade.

I was riddled with problems today and only able to make 3 passes.

First, the traxxas (not so)EZ start didn’t have enough juice to turn the engine. I fully charged up the NiMH battery 2 days ago. I suppose this battery is shot from sitting in the previous owners basement untouched for 3 years. Luckily i had a 3s lipo with an XT60 connector that i carry for my head heater. The XT60 somewhat fit the tamiya connector for the EZ start. Although the brushed EZ start motor did not like the 3s at all and kept overheating. Eventually i was able to get the engine started.

Second, these stock carbs on the TRX engines make it nearly impossible to get a good tune. And just when you think you’ve got the bottom end right, it kicks you in the nuts, bogs, and dies.

Third, after my first pass my RC8X transmitter lost signal with my R6FG receiver. Luckily the failsafe kicked in and stopped the car. I started standing around the 76’ mark for the other 2 passes.

Fourth, on pass #3 i lost all power to the car. Shortly after the 132’ mark the car became wobbly and lost traction sending it flipping down the lane. Sometime during this crash the power switch malfunctioned and killed power to the electronics. Again with some luck, I was already on the brakes when this happened and did not result in a runaway.

This project has started on a bit of a bad foot but that’s why I’m into it! Time to iron out a few kinks and make some more passes!

Current upgrades:
YIPIN AK70 throttle & brake servo
7.2v Lipo Rx battery
SpeedTreads Konekt SC Tires
Radiolink RC8X & R6F

Fuel: Sidewinder 30% Race Blend

Timing System: SkyRC GNSS Performance analyzer

Surface: Unprepped Asphalt

Weather:

Results:

See my fastest pass Here on YouTube

Overall, I did not expect a sub 4 second pass @ 42mph. So even though it was a rough day, I’m still pleased with my results.

 

[DavidB1126]

Third, after my first pass my RC8X transmitter lost signal with my R6FG receiver. Luckily the failsafe kicked in and stopped the car. I started standing around the 76’ mark for the other 2 passes.

Fourth, on pass #3 i lost all power to the car. Shortly after the 132’ mark the car became wobbly and lost traction sending it flipping down the lane. Sometime during this crash the power switch malfunctioned and killed power to the electronics. Again with some luck, I was already on the brakes when this happened and did not result in a runaway.

Yep. That's popular issues with radio-unlink stuff. Signal dropping issues and very poor range. With my electric cars, I could never go 60+ feet before it will cut out, and at even 5 feet the radio will constantly cut in and out. There is no fix. I been back and forth with radiolink since last year and they are a headache to deal with. Luckily for you failsafe actually worked for you, cause for me and most of my buddies I talk to due to these issues with the radio, their radios failsafe's don't work and will result in constant run-aways. Got rid of the radiolink junk myself after trying 6+ months to help radiolink fix them but they don't wanna listen and be ignorant. Not to mention the shady stuff behind the scenes with customer service. They blocked me and 4 of my buddies from their help group and pages for doing absolutely nothing. But they reply they blocked us due to "causing negative replies" while they won't fix their issues. If you experience these drop outs again, best thing I can tell ya is to get rid of the radiolink stuff. Sell it on ebay or fb marketplace. If it sells, you can use that money and money saved up for a better radio. Got myself a Flysky NB4+ and I love it. Past setups was the radiolink rc8x and rc4gs v3, now I am running Flysky NB4+ and Futaba 3PV. Way better. Quality radios. Helpful customer service if needed. Great radios. Other great radios are also from sanwa and radiomaster.

These threads you can see more of the issues I've gone through. And @CJSRCLIFE too.
https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/new-radio-radiolink-rc8x.138874/
https://www.rctalk.com/forum/thread...rc8x-futaba-t4pm-sanwa-m17-flysky-nb4.138512/

 

[Beer_Goggles_RC]

Yep. That's popular issues with radio-unlink stuff. Signal dropping issues and very poor range. With my electric cars, I could never go 60+ feet before it will cut out, and at even 5 feet the radio will constantly cut in and out. There is no fix

I've been using radiolink almost since I've gotten into RC and this is the first signal issue I can remember. Although usually I'm up 30' on a perch looking over a track that extends no further than 150' in either direction. The only thing that's really different is that I'm using an R6F which has v1 hardware instead of the R8F which has v2. Also I'm on a flat surface 132'+ away.

I think I'm going to try swapping it out for the R8F and extending the antenna a bit. Just trying to keep cost down and the NB4+ costs almost 3x what I got this car for

The Flysky is a really great tx though. A lot of the local guys run them. Definitely has a good feel to it.

 

[DavidB1126]

I tried everything. Antenna placement in the car. Different receivers. Different firmwares on the radio. New internal antenna on the radio. Signal booster on the radio. Nothing worked / helped.

The fhss v1/v2 on the receivers probably won't help either as that only changes the servo speed / refresh rate.

But I wish you luck

The Flysky is a really great tx though. A lot of the local guys run them. Definitely has a good feel to it.

Yea. It's a really good remote. Feels even better when I put my tennis racket grip tape on it

 

[johnnydmd]

Low 3's is reasonably good for the stock car with stock tires. Just changing to drag wheels/tires will be an immediate improvement.

And yes, those Traxxas carbs are pretty bad. You can grab an OS 11k carb and it's a popular replacement.

 

[Beer_Goggles_RC]

Low 3's is reasonably good for the stock car with stock tires. Just changing to drag wheels/tires will be an immediate improvement.

That was something I was gonna ask the no prep guys about. On a true no prep surface wouldn’t something with tread like the JC Dotek hook up a bit better than a slick? I imagine the tread could dig into the roughy surface.

Currently I feel like it’s hooking up pretty good. But the rears do balloon quite a bit and are horribly unbalanced which leads to it being unstable at high speeds.

 

[johnnydmd]

That was something I was gonna ask the no prep guys about. On a true no prep surface wouldn’t something with tread like the JC Dotek hook up a bit better than a slick? I imagine the tread could dig into the roughy surface.

Currently I feel like it’s hooking up pretty good. But the rears do balloon quite a bit and are horribly unbalanced which leads to it being unstable at high speeds.

My experience is that the Doteks do not hook up as good as slicks, and balloon worse as well. I've tried on a few different surfaces, no luck with them.

 

[sylentk]

I' m here to say that is pretty awesome.

But at the same time? I do not miss nitro.

 

[Beer_Goggles_RC]

The EZ Start delete bump box conversion is finally complete..
Was a bit more pain in the ass than I expected.

Starting weight: 5lbs 14.75oz empty tank + no battery

I haven’t much experience with converting nitro engines from one starting source to another and would like to send a big thanks to @tudordewolf for helping guide me through installing the non-starter backplate.

In order to fit the backplate the drive pin that comes off the crankshaft needed to be ground down.

I was able to grind it down with a bench grinder and steady hand.

Also, in order to use a bump start, the stock flywheel needed to be replaced as it was not tall enough. I replaced with a 40mm traxxas flywheel.

I am using a ProTek 1/10 on road bump box for this project. Though it was nowhere close to being able to fit this slash. Using some sheet plastic that I got off Amazon, I was able to modify it to make the slash fit. Yes it looks like dog I know. will likely look into a 3D printing service for professionally made adjustable mounts, or maybe even a new bump box all together (holler if you have recommendations).

Ending weight: 5lbs 3.5oz empty tank + no battery

Saving an impressive 11.25oz with this mod

New 132’ time TBD

 

[Beer_Goggles_RC]

Day 2: Weight Reduction Passes

I had better luck today in terms of getting all 10 passes in. The only thing really interrupting me was that the GNSS kept losing signal after every other pass or so.

Surprisingly enough, my fastest pass was with a sloppy tune. Once the tune got better (not great. Thanks traxxas carb) the car had a hard time hooking up. The asphalt that I was running on today was pretty new and a little slick from being so fresh. Also the ambient temperature of 60 degrees made for a bit less traction on the tires.

Even with suboptimal conditions I was still able to shave a few hairs off my fastest time.

Current upgrades:
YIPIN AK70 throttle & brake servo
7.2v Lipo Rx battery
SpeedTreads Konekt SC Tires
Radiolink RC8X & R6F
Ez Start Delete + Bump box conversion

Fuel: Losi Nitrotane 30%

Timing System: SkyRC GNSS Performance analyzer

Surface: Fresh Asphalt Unprepped

Weather:

Results:

See my fastest pass here on YouTube

 

[johnnydmd]

Great work! You're on your way

 

[Lostinthewoods86]

Thanks traxxas carb)

Do you plan on sticking with the Traxxas engine on this or going with something different?

 

[Beer_Goggles_RC]

Do you plan on sticking with the Traxxas engine on this or going with something different?

I've got an OS 11k on backorder. From what I've ready the Traxxas engines can do pretty good with them. If so then I'll try to hold out on an engine upgrade until I really start pushing times

 

[johnnydmd]

I've got an OS 11k on backorder. From what I've ready the Traxxas engines can do pretty good with them. If so then I'll try to hold out on an engine upgrade until I really start pushing times

I'd run it till it breaks (usually the conrod). Then upgrade to an OS .21 tm or OS .18 tz (no longer made, but still gettable). Those are the best plug and play engines that'll give you performance gains.

Once you switch to drag tires, front and rear, you should shave off a good bit of time. Some weight loss options I can see, like deleting the front and rear bumper assemblies will help too.

 

[Beer_Goggles_RC]

I'd run it till it breaks (usually the conrod). Then upgrade to an OS .21 tm or OS .18 tz (no longer made, but still gettable). Those are the best plug and play engines that'll give you performance gains.

Once you switch to drag tires, front and rear, you should shave off a good bit of time. Some weight loss options I can see, like deleting the front and rear bumper assemblies will help too.

Will the majority of drag slash parts be a direct swap? I know the rear towers are different. Pretty sure most of the front is the same.

My main concern is rear arms and wheelybar

 

[johnnydmd]

Will the majority of drag slash parts be a direct swap? I know the rear towers are different. Pretty sure most of the front is the same.

My main concern is rear arms and wheelybar

Towers you can leave as is. You'll need new bodymounts, I use ProLine ones and they mate up with the stock towers. Rear arms are interchangeable. The front is the same, you can leave the stock front arms.

The wheelie bar will require fabbing up a bracket to mount it on the chassis plate, and you'll need to fab a plate to bolt on the rear bulkhead (there are already holes) that you can run links from the top of the wheely bar to, in order to stabilize it.

Here's a pic that should give you the gist of it -