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Build Thread The most interesting Team Associated SC10 in the world

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Man, it felt like I was adding kilos of putty.
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Wild how little weight can mean the difference between smooth and crazy gyrations of the whole back end.
 
I’ve been curious about weight balance for the whole build. I was worried that shifting the receiver box forward what cause some kind of dire imbalance.

These $5 AliExpress gram scales are going to be 100% accurate right? Well my 100% accurate head shop test weight says yes!
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Am I doing this right?
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Some weird, but repeatable results. The left front is 30-40 grams heavier than the right.
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Rears are within a few grams, less difference than I was expecting with the motor plate hanging off the side.
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If the receiver box is causing the front difference, it should show up heavier on the right, not lighter. The tires have been run and aren’t clean, but they have the same amount of dirt.
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It’s entirely possible I’m measuring this all wrong, of course 😅
 
No comments on my weight balance, huh? OK then, here's another side mission before I can get to the body: It's spray booth time!
Okay, I'll bite.

My little brain says, "How can that be?"
Did you have putty in the wheels when you put the truck on the scales?
 
Okay, I'll bite.

My little brain says, "How can that be?"
Did you have putty in the wheels when you put the truck on the scales?

How, indeed? No putty.

I did another weigh without the wheels. Slightly different difference in weight, but still there.
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I don't know physics, but could this be related to suspension problems? Like, maybe one spring is pushing down more, twisting the center of gravity?
 
Hm! I should do it on all 4 corners too.

I wonder if I have linkages that are vaguely the right length…
I think you're on to something with the spring theory. I'm curious to know your results. 👍
 
Hm! I should do it on all 4 corners too.

I wonder if I have linkages that are vaguely the right length…
I'm sure droop/ride height, and spring accuracy play some role in weight shifting. Switch the shocks around.

Edit: I think pushing down on the vehicle while on the scales, then letting springs do their thing... is the best way to get repeated "close enough" readings.
 
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The used CVA bones I have are, well, used. I bet they sound like train tracks when they're running. Clickity clickity clickity.
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I've found that the Custom Works CVA rebuild kit fits AE parts of this era just fine. Two bonuses: it's half the price of the AE (or MIP) equivalent, and comes with setscrews. We'll use new compatible CVA bones and the old retainer springs.
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How good do freshly lubed CVAs feel? So good.
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Spring retainers installed, but I don't think they're actually necessary with the setscrew and thread lock. Correct me here, team.
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Do you happen to know where you sourced those 71016 CVA bones from? They are like... vanished from the face of the Earth. 🤔 :oops:
 
Do you happen to know where you sourced those 71016 CVA bones from? They are like... vanished from the face of the Earth. 🤔 :oops:
Yeah they just seemed to disappear over night.

There’s a couple Australian hobby stores with one or two in stock. I got a couple from eBay as well, but they seem to go quick.
 
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