Build Thread The most interesting Team Associated SC10 in the world

[Spksh]

SC10 vs B4(?) front axle. The difference in length comes from the threaded end outboard of the pin. Everything inboard from the pin is the exact same, within the margin of error for my calipers. I'd bet money that's the same for the T4 part. Helpful for someone () who wants to repro these.

 

[Spksh]

Let's turn on blinky mode for the ESC while we're here, turn off reverse, and bump the BEC from 6.0v to 7.4v.

I can't tell the difference in the servo response time, but the datasheet says it's faster now .

 

[Spksh]

Let's swap those front axles.

We have shoulders!

Much better. The kit calls for low-profile nuts on the front, but this looks fine to me.

 

[Spksh]

Now the bone.

It's hard to capture on camera, given parallax, but I think you can see the kink.

Silver paint marker where I see the bend.

I need to print a bending brake for my vice. We'll find out real quickly if these are hardened .

 

[WickedFog]

SC10 vs B4(?) front axle. The difference in length comes from the threaded end outboard of the pin. Everything inboard from the pin is the exact same, within the margin of error for my calipers. I'd bet money that's the same for the T4 part. Helpful for someone () who wants to repro these.
View attachment 267698

I have a B4. If I think about it I will pull one and measure this weekend. All my vintage stuff is getting moved this weekend anyway, so I'll try to remember to check.

 

[Spksh]

I have a B4. If I think about it I will pull one and measure this weekend. All my vintage stuff is getting moved this weekend anyway, so I'll try to remember to check.

Thanks, that would help to satisfy the OCD monkey who wants to know for sure.

 

[Spksh]

Three-point bending test says this was hardened.

Straighter?

I could possibly get it straighterer, but it's difficult to see by eye without mounting it and running the motor. Is this good enough?

 

[Spksh]

Note to self: Before you freak out about the insane eccentric wobble, remember to check the obvious things before breaking down both hubs and CVAs.

Look at him go!

That's a lot of putty. What are we all using for stick-on tire weights now?

Less worse.

 

[RustyUs]

Second problem. Here's the engagement I get on the front axle with a standard 8-32 lock nut. That's... not great.

I do have aluminum hexes on the front, maybe they're wider than the kit plastic? Comparison says no, they're the same depth, just a different geometry.
View attachment 267670

Here's the front axle on an RTR SC10B that I haven't disassembled. Note the screw shoulder visible.
View attachment 267671

Here's my current axle. No shoulder! He's shoulderless.
View attachment 267672

The calipers don't lie, the axle is too short!
View attachment 267674
View attachment 267675

All the other front axles I have on the parts wall match the RTR SC10B, so I have replacements. It's just weird. I didn't think the B4 had a different front axle when they went to wheel hexes, but maybe they did and I accidentally installed buggy axles. Good to know for when I get around to rebuilding the B4.

I use thin 8-32 locknuts.

 

[Doom!]

Note to self: Before you freak out about the insane eccentric wobble, remember to check the obvious things before breaking down both hubs and CVAs.

Look at him go!

That's a lot of putty. What are we all using for stick-on tire weights now?
View attachment 267802

Less worse.

That is more gooderer.

 

[RustyUs]

SC10 vs B4(?) front axle. The difference in length comes from the threaded end outboard of the pin. Everything inboard from the pin is the exact same, within the margin of error for my calipers. I'd bet money that's the same for the T4 part. Helpful for someone () who wants to repro these.

Yes, the B4/T4/SC10 all use the same steering blocks. T4 axles are longer than SC10 axles. When I was building my T4.3, I originally used SC10 axles. After stadium truck wheels were on... major rubbing. Picture below shows axles (T4 top/SC10 bottom) before the hex drive revolution ...

 

[Spksh]

I use thin 8-32 locknuts.

Yeah, the kit uses LP nuts on the front. But I don't think even LP would have been thin enough in this case! I have plenty* of SC10 axles, so keeping these short ones aside for a B4 is no problem.






*enough for the current project list

 

[Spksh]

Yes, the B4/T4/SC10 all use the same steering blocks. T4 axles are longer than SC10 axles. When I was building my T4.3, I originally used SC10 axles. After stadium truck wheels were on... major rubbing. Picture below shows axles (T4 top/SC10 bottom) before the hex drive revolution ...

Nice, thanks for the confirmation. I guess I need to go find some T4 axles to finish the fleet

 

[Spksh]

That is more gooderer.

Not quite bestest, but it'll do for now. I'm just balancing using the front axle, maybe I need one of those fancy tire/prop balancing jigs.

 

[WickedFog]

Three-point bending test says this was hardened.
View attachment 267800

Straighter?

I could possibly get it straighterer, but it's difficult to see by eye without mounting it and running the motor. Is this good enough?

So yeah, it was probably bent at heat treat. Looks a lot better. I have had 3 or 4 bend on me. I got lucky and one was like perfect after a couple whacks. I used a strap of leather and a brass jewlers hammer and just tapped it a few times and it was good. But that looks better than my other attempts.

It almost looks like the bend is right next to the ball on the axle end. But hard to tell. I had one do that. Set the shaft on a 123 block and roll it and see if the ball is running out.

 

[WickedFog]

Nice, thanks for the confirmation. I guess I need to go find some T4 axles to finish the fleet

I totally forgot to get that measurement. I was busy solving PC problems all day. I don't think I'll ever build another PC with components from various manufacturers. None of the software plays well together anymore

 

[Spksh]

So yeah, it was probably bent at heat treat. Looks a lot better. I have had 3 or 4 bend on me. I got lucky and one was like perfect after a couple whacks. I used a strap of leather and a brass jewlers hammer and just tapped it a few times and it was good. But that looks better than my other attempts.

It almost looks like the bend is right next to the ball on the axle end. But hard to tell. I had one do that. Set the shaft on a 123 block and roll it and see if the ball is running out.

Yeah, good call on the 123 block, that’ll make it super obvious.

You’re laying the bone down on the leather and tapping it from above on the high spot?

 

[Spksh]

I totally forgot to get that measurement. I was busy solving PC problems all day. I don't think I'll ever build another PC with components from various manufacturers. None of the software plays well together anymore

It’s been years since I built my last one, but YouTube is now convinced I’m some kind of RGB obsessed custom rig building gamer bro because I’ve been looking up cable sleeving so much for this build.

 

[WickedFog]

Yeah, good call on the 123 block, that’ll make it super obvious.

You’re laying the bone down on the leather and tapping it from above on the high spot?

My dad had a really old leather strap. I sat it on the back of his vise, which had a flat mandrel on it. I found the high spot on the dogbone by rotating them in the car with tire removed. I had a white paint marker taped on a block of wood. Throttle trim turned up on radio to rotate the axle slowly as I slid the marker in slowly until it just touched the high spot. Then I sat it on the strap with white dot up. Gave it a couple decent taps with a brass hammer and it came out perfect. It was pure luck because the others I tried I went back and forth in it.

Just pull your top carrier link screw so you can fold the carrier down, pull axle, tappy tap, reinstall, insert the screw loose, test again.

For getting the ball end centered on one I had an old 1.25" wide V-block. I took a block of wood and ripped it on the table saw at 45° and used it to clamp the dogbone in it in the vise, with the ball turned high side up. Then tapped it with the hammer til it was centered (as good as I could get).

 

[Spksh]

My dad had a really old leather strap. I sat it on the back of his vise, which had a flat mandrel on it. I found the high spot on the dogbone by rotating them in the car with tire removed. I had a white paint marker taped on a block of wood. Throttle trim turned up on radio to rotate the axle slowly as I slid the marker in slowly until it just touched the high spot. Then I sat it on the strap with white dot up. Gave it a couple decent taps with a brass hammer and it came out perfect. It was pure luck because the others I tried I went back and forth in it.

Just pull your top carrier link screw so you can fold the carrier down, pull axle, tappy tap, reinstall, insert the screw loose, test again.

For getting the ball end centered on one I had an old 1.25" wide V-block. I took a block of wood and ripped it on the table saw at 45° and used it to clamp the dogbone in it in the vise, with the ball turned high side up. Then tapped it with the hammer til it was centered (as good as I could get).

That’s great, thank you.