Build Thread The most interesting Team Associated SC10 in the world

[RustyUs]

And now it becomes clear.
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Designed a top-side clip for the transponder, but you don't want to see that. Made them both sticky.
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Love a good grub screw. After all this, it feels almost illicit to open a brand new antenna tube and cut it to size.
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You will stay stuck.
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Tidy.
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Squish.
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Friends, I am pretty happy with this.
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Look at those lines!

 

[Spksh]

Thank you sir

 

[Spksh]

I'm not going to sleeve the servo lead. That sentence makes me sad, but I need a better way to anchor the sleeving at the servo end, because the bend radius is so tight. The heat shrink I have on hand is too thick to bend well, so the sleeving just peels away.

What does that mean in practice? For now, I'm going to take the "perfect is the enemy of good" approach. I don't love that the servo lead is going to rub directly on some sharp edges. But I want to find a way to make some gaskets for the cable cut-outs in the receive box eventually anyway, and potentially I can also make some cable boots that are more flexible and incorporate keys for the heat shrink.

...or one of you could point me at super thin space teflon heat shrink that will magically make my problem go away

Here's where we're at. Not too shabby, especially considering that the transponder is tucked away in the receiver box too. I'll go out on a limb and say this is likely the cleanest wiring harness this truck has ever seen.

What's next? I need to shorten those power leads on the ESC back down to @Littlemotor approved lengths and secure the external ESC capacitors somewhere.

 

[Spksh]

Wiring complete*

*Lessons for next time:

• Wait for the silicone wire to arrive, don't just use the budget PVC coated wire from the local RadioShack-equivalent, because you'll be chasing melted insulation problems and the final cable harness won't be flexible enough.
• Use braided cable sleeve, not the expandable cable sleeve that's cheaper. Braided frays less and is more flexible.
• PET cable sleeve melts at heat shrink temperatures.
• Watch your solder fill in wire terminals. I overfilled the XT60 and ESC terminals with solder and then my nicely tinned wires had to be pushed in, which is painful and caused a number of wire ends to fray. Also, solder spilling on to the outside of the cup means your heat shrink is harder to slide into place.
• Wires that won't be unplugged all the time probably don't need adhesive-lined heat shrink to secure the cable sleeve. Non-adhesive is thinner and more flexible, better for smaller cables.
• Adhesive heat shrink isn't a replacement for a flexible cable boot for tight bends. You'll just end up with exposed wiring as the sleeve is forced to pull back.
• 12 AWG wire + PET sleeve + adhesive-lined heat shrink does not want to fit through the plastic boot on an XT60 connector.

 

[Doom!]

Wiring complete*
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*Lessons for next time:

• Wait for the silicone wire to arrive, don't just use the budget PVC coated wire from the local RadioShack-equivalent, because you'll be chasing melted insulation problems and the final cable harness won't be flexible enough.
• Use braided cable sleeve, not the expandable cable sleeve that's cheaper. Braided frays less and is more flexible.
• PET cable sleeve melts at heat shrink temperatures.
• Watch your solder fill in wire terminals. I overfilled the XT60 and ESC terminals with solder and then my nicely tinned wires had to be pushed in, which is painful and caused a number of wire ends to fray. Also, solder spilling on to the outside of the cup means your heat shrink is harder to slide into place.
• Wires that won't be unplugged all the time probably don't need adhesive-lined heat shrink to secure the cable sleeve. Non-adhesive is thinner and more flexible, better for smaller cables.
• Adhesive heat shrink isn't a replacement for a flexible cable boot for tight bends. You'll just end up with exposed wiring as the sleeve is forced to pull back.
• 12 AWG wire + PET sleeve + adhesive-lined heat shrink does not want to fit through the plastic boot on an XT60 connector.

This is a seriously clean build! I almost wanted to say "what wires".

 

[Spksh]

So this is really the first time I've pulled the trigger on the throttle. I think I have a banana. These were "new" 71016 86mm CVA bones from AMain.

I have one other set of new 71016 bones, and I just grabbed another set from ebay. They've been out of stock on AMain for a while, so now I'm worried they're going to get discontinued.

 

[WickedFog]

So this is really the first time I've pulled the trigger on the throttle. I think I have a banana. These were "new" 71016 86mm CVA bones from AMain.

I have one other set of new 71016 bones, and I just grabbed another set from ebay. They've been out of stock on AMain for a while, so now I'm worried they're going to get discontinued.

You should be able to straighten that out. I wonder if it was that way after hardening, if they even do harden them after machining.

 

[Spksh]

Second problem. Here's the engagement I get on the front axle with a standard 8-32 lock nut. That's... not great.

I do have aluminum hexes on the front, maybe they're wider than the kit plastic? Comparison says no, they're the same depth, just a different geometry.

Here's the front axle on an RTR SC10B that I haven't disassembled. Note the screw shoulder visible.

Here's my current axle. No shoulder! He's shoulderless.

The calipers don't lie, the axle is too short!

All the other front axles I have on the parts wall match the RTR SC10B, so I have replacements. It's just weird. I didn't think the B4 had a different front axle when they went to wheel hexes, but maybe they did and I accidentally installed buggy axles. Good to know for when I get around to rebuilding the B4.

 

[Spksh]

You should be able to straighten that out. I wonder if it was that way after hardening, if they even do harden them after machining.

Yeah, I'm going to try.

Not something I'd expect to pass QC. I didn't see any signs of wear or weirdness with the stapled packaging, so it's unlikely to be a dodgy return.

 

[WickedFog]

Yeah, I'm going to try.

Not something I'd expect to pass QC. I didn't see any signs of wear or weirdness with the stapled packaging, so it's unlikely to be a dodgy return.

It's hard to say. They should be hardening those after machining, but I don't believe a lot of them are. It's funny they aren't all hardened into spring steel after machining considering how thin they are. Then they wouldn't bend.

Bit most production jobs I've been around they only inspect the first piece, and one every 25 or so during the run. Then when the job's complete they check a few random ones. Typically, if the 1st one is good and the 25th one is good, they're all good. But every once in awhile a bad part slips through. Usually, any rejects sent back from the customer will dynamically determine the inspection frequency of subsequent runs.

 

[Spksh]

It's hard to say. They should be hardening those after machining, but I don't believe a lot of them are. It's funny they aren't all hardened into spring steel after machining considering how thin they are. Then they wouldn't bend.

Bit most production jobs I've been around they only inspect the first piece, and one every 25 or so during the run. Then when the job's complete they check a few random ones. Typically, if the 1st one is good and the 25th one is good, they're all good. But every once in awhile a bad part slips through. Usually, any rejects sent back from the customer will dynamically determine the inspection frequency of subsequent runs.

Yeah, I just got unlucky. I’m only salty about it because they’re vintage

 

[WickedFog]

Yeah, I just got unlucky. I’m only salty about it because they’re vintage

You're gonna bend them anyway. They were just saving you the trouble

 

[Spksh]

You're gonna bend them anyway. They were just saving you the trouble

There was a diner down the road from me when I lived in Tucson that was NASCAR crash themed. Like, they had smashed up body panels, with the drivers' signatures, on all the walls.

I should bag up all the damaged parts I have and sell them as "distressed vintage" or something

 

[Spksh]

Oh nice, thanks to @Reaper from 2020 we have a technical drawing of at least the T4 axle (7854). I do love that @RustyUs shows in all these threads with the winning workarounds . Have I said today how much I love RCTalk?

Three different SKUs:

T4 7854

B4 7496

SC10 9881

So according to the tech drawing, the T4 axle is 31mm. My measurement for the SC10 is 28.3mm, and the (probable) B4 axle is 24mm. I should check the dimensions of the bearing features, see if they're all identical except for thread length

 

[WickedFog]

There was a diner down the road from me when I lived in Tucson that was NASCAR crash themed. Like, they had smashed up body panels, with the drivers' signatures, on all the walls.

I should bag up all the damaged parts I have and sell them as "distressed vintage" or something

Yeah, I have seen numerous busted up NASCAR themed items sell on ebay for way more than I'd pay. I'm not much of a NASCAR fan, even though I worked right in the middle of it. I do have a top cover from a $26,000 C&R CR3 transmission though. It was the prototype. I scrapped it on the very last op - the angled bore for part of the shift rod assembly had a super tight tolerance. Whoops.

 

[Spksh]

Yeah, I have seen numerous busted up NASCAR themed items sell on ebay for way more than I'd pay. I'm not much of a NASCAR fan, even though I worked right in the middle of it. I do have a top cover from a $26,000 C&R CR3 transmission though. It was the prototype. I scrapped it on the very last op - the angled bore for part of the shift rod assembly had a super tight tolerance. Whoops.
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Ouch, I hate that feeling. Did the drawing come with tolerances for all those radiused edges?

 

[WickedFog]

Ouch, I hate that feeling. Did the drawing come with tolerances for all those radiused edges?

Tolerances were pretty wide open on that kinda stuff. +/- .010" or so. How they looked was almost more important in the racing industry, believe it or not.

 

[Spksh]

How they looked was almost more important in the racing industry, believe it or not.

I think this entire build demonstrates that I believe it

 

[WickedFog]

I think this entire build demonstrates that I believe it

Yeah, OCD does wonderful things in the right hands

 

[Spksh]

Yeah, OCD does wonderful things in the right hands

I'm gonna tell my therapist you said that.