Kyosho sandmaster 2.0

[Ritz413]

It just keeps getting meaner....new front tires are here!!!

 

[jmw_man]

Thank you for the drop video, it really plants itself! I read that the Team Associated gray's have a spring rate of 2.55 lb/in.

Does it steer pretty well with the new front tires? I saw someone else go the opposite direction with more narrow front tires so I was curious.

 

[Ritz413]

Thank you for the drop video, it really plants itself! I read that the Team Associated gray's have a spring rate of 2.55 lb/in.

Does it steer pretty well with the new front tires? I saw someone else go the opposite direction with more narrow front tires so I was curious.

The new tires for the front went on last night. I expect steering will be good still. Didn't give me any clearance issues so the st/r is still set the same. I have been setting this up to be a car for mostly real dirt and sandy type conditions. Currently I don't think we have had a single day that has been over freezing in a month, so ideal testing has been rough.
I would encourage you to read this whole build thread. There is a lot of trial and error in the refinement leading up to where the car is now. I will eventually do a video going over all the changes front to back once I am satisfied and pretending I will leave it alone,lol.

 

[RudyF6]

pretending I will leave it alone,lol.

 

[Ritz413]

That's what I said.

So in the beginning I thought I had identified the rear shock tower as a potential weak point. At this time I would say that is only accurate if you neglect to tighten the screws that hold it down after a hard run. The new 1 has held up well, but I have had to snug the mounting screws up more than once. I expect it is more susceptible to break if you just let it become loose and keep driving. I do not, and have had no further issues

 

[CertifiedMike]

Ultima springs are shorter, same diameter if the spring length becomes a problem.

 

[Ritz413]

Ultima springs are shorter, same diameter if the spring length becomes a problem.

I had a full selection at the hobby shop. These were chosen on purpose, not because they were the only option available.

 

[PaPeRo]

 

[PaPeRo]

How it started.

 

[PaPeRo]

How it's going.

 

[RustyUs]

....

I can only take so much greatness at a time.
Is that just paint or did you dye the roll cage?
I was/still am a HUGE red, white, and blue fan.
That black chassis has transformed that buggy to the next level of most excellent!

 

[Ritz413]

I can only take so much greatness at a time.
Is that just paint or did you dye the roll cage?
I was/still am a HUGE red, white, and blue fan.
That black chassis has transformed that buggy to the next level of most excellent!

The black roll cages are discontinued , and still available on ebay

 

[PaPeRo]

I can only take so much greatness at a time.
Is that just paint or did you dye the roll cage?
I was/still am a HUGE red, white, and blue fan.
That black chassis has transformed that buggy to the next level of most excellent!

The black roll cage is from the previous 1.0 chassis, but you could achieve the same look by just painting the yellow 2.0 version. I plan to paint my other yellow chassis a different color, not sure what color though.

 

[Odddoylerules]

Hello, this is my first post here. Santa brought my 9 year old son this car (but we all know who it was really meant for )

So far, he is loving his car, the only thing we've done is run it stock on 2S and it does donuts pretty well which is what my kid likes to do.

The current issue I'm having right now is the rear bottoming out and bouncing as well. If I reduce the spring tension it bottoms out harder, if I increase the spring tension, it bounces more. I don't want to go out and buy new shocks. Has anybody solved the problem by changing the oil in the stock rear shocks?? I read this thread but didn't see the answer. I saw somewhere that someone was using 40 wt oil. I actually have a little bit of 40 wt in my box of supplies but wanted to check here before opening his shocks up in case I'm wasting my time.

I went to 50 weight and think 60 is what the doctor ordered on stock springs with pensioners maxed

 

[Odddoylerules]

Yall slash 2wd fronts are bad to the bone on these if ya didnt know. Huge upgrade that look great! Glad to find this forum.

 

[Ritz413]

Yall slash 2wd fronts are bad to the bone on these if ya didnt know. Huge upgrade that look great! Glad to find this forum.

Good to know, although so far the stock shocks with different springs have been good for me. It's getting warm enough here to get the sandmaster back out soon

 

[PaPeRo]

According to the Kyosho manual, the stock shocks are 85mm length big bore all around, so anything near 85mm will work well without much modification. That said there are several things about this Kyosho's suspension that needs improvement so I'll list the things that have already been addressed and some other things that I've experimented with. I've had mine from the first version 1.0 that was released over 13yrs ago so am aware of all the issues from that generation too.

1. The stock front shocks' spring adjustment collars will bind with the chassis at a certain point so full adjustment is not achievable. This means you need to loosen the tension almost all the way or increase it almost all the way. This can be fixed by using smaller bore aftermarket shocks or non-adjustable or clip-on type fixed height collars. The stock front shocks on mine also bind under high compression so sometimes one or both stay compressed after landing a jump. This could be because they come from the factory only partially filled with oil. It doesn't help that the stock front springs are very soft so can't decompress the shocks back to full extension. The stock springs do have the right tension for correct front ride height with a standard size/weight battery. The stock shocks use tapping screws for mounting which does not work with standard 3mm eyelets on standard aftermarket shocks. You will need to use M3 screws if using aftermarket shocks with 3mm eyelets.

2. The stock rear shocks bottom out and are also very bouncy. The fix is to use much heavier weight oil if you plan on doing larger jumps. The springs themselves, like the fronts have the right spring tension for the correct ride height with a standard size/weight battery.

3. The dogbones on the rear will bind/damage the drive cups if using 90mm aftermarket shocks without an internal spacer to limit maximum extension. The solution is to use an internal 5mm spacer to limit it to 85mm. An alternative is to use slightly shorter length shocks like 80mm units on the rear, but doing so will slightly reduce ride height/suspension travel. I've searched for the wheel side drive cups, but have not been able to find a part number or replacements. Also they're proprietary in design so cannot use standard 12mm hexes. The nonthreaded portion of the shank is a larger 6mm diameter so you'd have to use Kyosho's hexes. You could probably adapt other manufacturers drive cups if you replaced the hub bearings to smaller 5mm ID units, but the stock cups are slotted to work with the stock dogbones which uses larger 3mm drive pins. It's too bad nobody makes CVDs for this chassis.

All of this said, I've had good results using Injora's small bore 80mm shocks all around. They're relatively cheap for a set of 4 and are all metal and decent quality. They also have many different spring sets available for tuning ride height. You could stay with the dual-rate from the factory or use a single longer spring. They also use the standard 3.4mm diameter shafts just like on the stock Kyoshos and other manufacturers so any of the o-rings, spacers etc made for other manufacturers will work. Important to note that since they're all metal, you'll need to use some sort of medium strength thread locker on the bottom of the shock shaft when screwing the shock end on. An alternative is to replace the bottom metal ones with standard plastic ones. I've also had great success with medium bore aftermarket shocks.

 

[Ritz413]

The front shocks getting stuck in the compressed position I also had. Looks like someone at the factory got a little carried away tightening up the base of the reservoir and the oring seal squashed out creating a lip for dirt to build up on. They don't leak so I pulled the springs, and trimmed the excess with a razor that was squashed out to eliminate the lip...no more problem, still don't leak.

 

[RustyUs]

The front shocks getting stuck in the compressed position I also had. Looks like someone at the factory got a little carried away tightening up the base of the reservoir and the oring seal squashed out creating a lip for dirt to build up on. They don't leak so I pulled the springs, and trimmed the excess with a razor that was squashed out to eliminate the lip...no more problem, still don't leak.

You trimmed the o-rings with a razor?

..."I couldn't find any razor blades."

 

[Ritz413]

You trimmed the o-rings with a razor?
View attachment 269882
..."I couldn't find any razor blades."
View attachment 269883

Just the part sticking out catching dirt. I figured if it didnt work it wouldn't be that hard to get new 1s. Has been no issue