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Kyosho sandmaster 2.0

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I believe in you....I broke some things yesterday on different cars
i like them both without cracks and twisted parts that's why i haven't used and they can both stay looking pretty on the shelf for a bit longer, i should at least drive the electric sandmaster on the grass i shouldn't hit something there.
 
i like them both without cracks and twisted parts that's why i haven't used and they can both stay looking pretty on the shelf for a bit longer, i should at least drive the electric sandmaster on the grass i shouldn't hit something there.
Only if you get new "grassmaster" livery
 
I'm going to try and adapt CVDs for this chassis, but starting with the differential outdrives. I don't know which outdrives would be a drop-in fit with this differential. Finding this part is key, because then I could use almost any CVD of the correct length.
 
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So my plans have changed a bit. Top is the stock piece, bottom is an aftermarket CVD for a Kyosho FW06 nitro chassis. The CVD dog bone has the correct 3mm diameter pin so works with the stock differential outdrive, but it's slightly longer 53mm vs 50mm. The axle also has the correct shank diameter of 6mm so fits the hub bearings, but again length doesn't match. The threaded shaft is also slightly short. For the factory in China that machines these, it's a simple change of the CNC program to alter the lengths. They could make the simple changes in under 15 minutes and make hundreds of these pieces in only a few hours. Problem is I don't know how to contact them to special order a small batch of maybe 20 pieces.

DSC1946.jpg
 
@Ritz413 did I miss in here where you explained how you adapted the Kimbrough spur to the Sandmaster? It looks like you turned the stock spur gear into a hub, mounted the Kimbrough spur to it, and then flipped the pinon--but I don't know that it's really that easy.

@PaPeRo I saw your black roll cage and immediately ran to Ebay to get one for myself. My aims are less formal track weapon and more holy-sh*t-that-thing-looks-awesome. I've got a set of billet wheels inbound and am in pursuit of a more restomod-style approach; a new Sandmaster that looks vintage.

@BothOfYou thank you for sharing so much detail in your explanations. It's supremely helpful. I'm just getting started and will likely be slow-rolling my projects, but you've got the following front-of-mind for me right now:
  • Make sure the rear shock tower is securely mounted.
  • Flip the rear UCA linkages L-to-R (check and report on rear toe).
  • 60-70wt oil for the rear shocks, but also considering metal upgrades.
  • Rear LCA spacers to address slop.
  • Replace noisy spur gear.
  • Add rear wing.
  • Add lights.
I've really enjoyed taking this thing out and tossing it around in the street out front. 18-20mph stock speed and torque curve feels ideal for newbies, and the overall build quality (of what is my first-ever Kyosho) is impressive. Full bearings and RTR for a hair of $100? All day long. In a world where everything is absurdly overpriced out of pure, straight greed, it's nice knowing the cheapest kit I've ever bought is a truly turnkey, RTR buggy with full bearings and decent shocks bought in 2026.

It's purely stock aside from a big sticker across the hood right now, but I'll be along in a bit to share pictures here.
 
@Ritz413 did I miss in here where you explained how you adapted the Kimbrough spur to the Sandmaster? It looks like you turned the stock spur gear into a hub, mounted the Kimbrough spur to it, and then flipped the pinon--but I don't know that it's really that easy.

@PaPeRo I saw your black roll cage and immediately ran to Ebay to get one for myself. My aims are less formal track weapon and more holy-sh*t-that-thing-looks-awesome. I've got a set of billet wheels inbound and am in pursuit of a more restomod-style approach; a new Sandmaster that looks vintage.

@BothOfYou thank you for sharing so much detail in your explanations. It's supremely helpful. I'm just getting started and will likely be slow-rolling my projects, but you've got the following front-of-mind for me right now:
  • Make sure the rear shock tower is securely mounted.
  • Flip the rear UCA linkages L-to-R (check and report on rear toe).
  • 60-70wt oil for the rear shocks, but also considering metal upgrades.
  • Rear LCA spacers to address slop.
  • Replace noisy spur gear.
  • Add rear wing.
  • Add lights.
I've really enjoyed taking this thing out and tossing it around in the street out front. 18-20mph stock speed and torque curve feels ideal for newbies, and the overall build quality (of what is my first-ever Kyosho) is impressive. Full bearings and RTR for a hair of $100? All day long. In a world where everything is absurdly overpriced out of pure, straight greed, it's nice knowing the cheapest kit I've ever bought is a truly turnkey, RTR buggy with full bearings and decent shocks bought in 2026.

It's purely stock aside from a big sticker across the hood right now, but I'll be along in a bit to share pictures here.
I'm happy to share my findings with these Kyoshos for anyone who is interested in getting one. They are trully fun buggies to run and modify as they are so affordable. I would love to see other fellow RC hobbyists like yourself mod these in their/your own style. For me modding these to make them look less toyish and more scale is the most fun. You also don't need a lot of power with these. The stock brushed motor on 2S is fine and allows better driving control/management if you decide to track it. Even though they're not true vintage race buggies, their performance is in the same class as they don't have camber, toe adjustments etc. If I have extra time, I'll post a couple more pictures of mine with a staggered wheel/tire setup.
 
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I'm happy to share my findings with these Kyoshos for anyone who is interested in getting one. They are truly fun buggies to run and modify as they are so affordable. I would love to see other fellow RC hobbyists like yourself mod these in their/your own style. For me modding these to make them look less toyish and more scale is the most fun.
Testify. These things are an excellent entry point into the hobby. I need to do some math like Ritz did, but I'm sure I'm still comfortably below $200 all-in. That's less than US$200 for a complete, turnkey buggy with 2S LiPo power, custom gearing, wheels, tires, and lights.

Meanwhile, a BBX is $265, and a Wild One is $255. I mean, even the Grasshopper is $130--and all require electrics. Maybe it's a wash in the end. You put in the time, you get the build quality and adjustability and attention to detail, right? And maybe it's still around $200 all-in, end of day. I really wanted another buggy. I really wanted a BBX. (I have always loved Tamiya first.) But I didn't want to set myself up for failure by ordering another giant box that would have to wait for me to dig out the bench in the basement.

You also don't need a lot of power with these. The stock brushed motor on 2S is fine and allows better driving control/management if you decide to track it. Even though they're not true vintage race buggies, their performance is in the same class as they don't have camber, toe adjustments etc.
You can say that again. Pretty sure I ran the first couple-three NiMH packs through it with the ESC jumper set to LiPo. It was a blast--but last night, I put a fully charged 2S LiPo pack in and--WOW. Wake up sleepy head. It's the morning time, I guess. Those OE tires and wheels won't last long.

I've been casually shopping Reedy Radons, but they're all out of stock. Like, everywhere. Found Holmes Hobbies, and really like their Retro Series 540 brushed motors. I've been shopping 17T-19T motors since the day I saw Ritz' comments on 17T drivability, but last night in front of the house, I found myself thinking I should invest in control over power at this stage of the game.

I'm currently WOT drifting on rough, pitted concrete, and had my first head-on with the curb due to twitchy handling while aiming for the jump at the edge of the driveway. Popped the upper control arm linkage off on one side. Immediately thought of that other dude with the broken steering linkage. So yeah, methinks the buggy could do with some upgrades here.

If I have extra time, I'll post a couple more pictures of mine with a staggered wheel/tire setup.
Pictures of my car are coming soon. You never get a second chance to make a first impression. I've got staggered wheels/tires arriving today and need to finalize a couple lighting projects, but I think we're gonna have fun this year.

Thanks again for talking through things in this thread, y'all. This is truly good stuff.
 
Perfection is the enemy of done. I give you—Sandmaster 2.1—El Bandito.

PXL_20260702_010335389.webp


We are currently benched by offset. I need +1-2mm more hex to get the rim off the hub out back. Otherwise, this is a de-stickered, yellow-cage Sandmaster with a rattle-canned cage and body, Meus "Hex" 4-pod light setup, and $42-shipped-from-China rolling stock. (I tried using a pair of King Cab shock pistons for spacers, but it just wasn't enough.)

PXL_20260702_010118886.webp
PXL_20260702_010401203.webp


Man, I can't wait to put a couple packs through this thing. Wing, whip, and cockpit on deck. Got my goBilda 5mm sonic adapter. Waiting on tracking from Kimbrough on a 90T spur and 23-25-27T pinions. I've clearly put most of my budget into aesthetics, but I'm excited to tighten this thing up in the coming months. Adjustable links, perhaps metal shocks, maybe even a 19T somethingorother if I'm feeling spicy.

PXL_20260702_010436344.webp


This close to scraping most of that gray paint off in the street...
 
Perfection is the enemy of done. I give you—Sandmaster 2.1—El Bandito.

View attachment 277828

We are currently benched by offset. I need +1-2mm more hex to get the rim off the hub out back. Otherwise, this is a de-stickered, yellow-cage Sandmaster with a rattle-canned cage and body, Meus "Hex" 4-pod light setup, and $42-shipped-from-China rolling stock. (I tried using a pair of King Cab shock pistons for spacers, but it just wasn't enough.)

View attachment 277830 View attachment 277831

Man, I can't wait to put a couple packs through this thing. Wing, whip, and cockpit on deck. Got my goBilda 5mm sonic adapter. Waiting on tracking from Kimbrough on a 90T spur and 23-25-27T pinions. I've clearly put most of my budget into aesthetics, but I'm excited to tighten this thing up in the coming months. Adjustable links, perhaps metal shocks, maybe even a 19T somethingorother if I'm feeling spicy.

View attachment 277832

This close to scraping most of that gray paint off in the street...
Looking good! I like those wheels. Excited to hear how it goes with some run time.
 
This is the kind of thread that really brings value to the forum for me. A car that's inexpensive enough to not get real attention on youtube beyond a box opening and quick brushless conversion for a laugh. Yet well built enough to be a great platform. Multiple contributors with different ideas on mods that inspire debate, and create a record for anyone interested to use a builders reference to do what they want without going broke. If this is what rtr brings to the hobby....OK then. You will learn just as much tearing into a vehicle like what has been done here as you would building a kit.....and then tearing into it anyway.
 
This is the kind of thread that really brings value to the forum for me.
Testify.
This is what it's all about. Racers, crawlers, bashers, collectors--we can all learn from each other. I'm not looking to track any of my machines, but I found your comments on motor and gearing vis-a-vis acceleration and top end incredibly valuable. Drivability and handling are always important.

Things add up quickly--even with entry level kits like these. I've probably got $75 into wheels, tires, lights, and gears. Aluminum shocks, adjustable links, and an LED whip will put me soundly into $200 car territory. And that's not counting a couple 5200mAh LiPos and an Ovonic 2up charger. (You were saying about decals?) ;) I think the point here is that, yes, entry level kits like these are exceptional value for those looking for a taste of real RC car action.

You don't have to spend $500-$1000 to have a most excellent experience. I think that's a throwback to the old days. Entry level kits abound today, and you easily get twice the machine you used to get.
 
View attachment 278011
My brother's Ruckus, featuring 0WD due to classic broken diffs. When mine broke I took it apart and used it to Frankenstein my little brother's car back to life, but it only last 2 batteries. The Outcast I just bought.
I wish the ecx brand was still around. They are fun little trucks....with no support.
By comparison to the sandmaster 2.0 discussed here. That vehicle has crossover with previous sandmaster generations, and some other stuff that can be sourced from various other products. The radio is also pretty good. The factory radio with the ecx was ....less good
20260704_090336.webp

That said....if anyone needs a factory ecx spektrum radio hit me up. This 1 can go and I guarantee you can afford it.
 
I wish the ecx brand was still around. They are fun little trucks....with no support.
By comparison to the sandmaster 2.0 discussed here. That vehicle has crossover with previous sandmaster generations, and some other stuff that can be sourced from various other products. The radio is also pretty good. The factory radio with the ecx was ....less good
View attachment 278017
That said....if anyone needs a factory ecx spektrum radio hit me up. This 1 can go and I guarantee you can afford it.
I have the 1st gen radio laying around somewhere, my brother got the second gen.
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This is mine after some cheap upgrades and then salvaging it for my brother. I'm trying to convince him to get one of the Grom platforms because he really likes my Outcast 4S but needs something smaller.
 
I have the 1st gen radio laying around somewhere, my brother got the second gen.
View attachment 278018
This is mine after some cheap upgrades and then salvaging it for my brother. I'm trying to convince him to get one of the Grom platforms because he really likes my Outcast 4S but needs something smaller.
What about something like a sct? Then he is gonna be in 1/10 scale, plenty of options to get something he can handle, and upgrade to reckless power later.
 
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