Just been given this to fix... gonna need some help tho!!!

[STONER RC]

Also when you plug the esc back in it doesn’t overheat or smoke, and outputs the right volts too...
the charger maybe scorched the battery plug, considering the battery is obviously degrading- given the car doesn’t look that old/that used it may be why it’s degrading already?
Or maybe someone plugged the balance plug into the Rx? Would that be a no-no?

@StonerRC365 you’re forgetting my noob-ness mate lol is it worth risking the receiver from my other RC? The axis I wouldn’t dare use as I probably couldn’t find a replacement knowing that old thing haha And will a nitro receiver be the same? I’ll check the Camper and see what’s on that hold on....
So the axis is crystal anyway I forgot that, the camper is a 2.4ghz set up here’s the Rx on that, where should I plug the wires into? And I’ll still need to repair the burned wire before I can plug it in
If I use this Rx will my other Tx work without having to bind etc?
View attachment 135368

As long as the TX was binder to that rx. I would bind it again to be sure... esc goes to channel 2 servo to channel 1 and the fan can go to channel 3...

Well that’s good news mate thanks very much the pdf worked, I’ve ptinted a copy too for my growing collection of manuals lol
Really appreciate the help, I’ll plug it all in tomorrow and see if it works, fingers crossed it won’t fry my Rx lol
May buy that programming card if all is well with this esc too

Youn an program with the controller just takes longer with out the card thats all. And a head up the wires for the jst plugs only get crimped not soldered...for future reference bud...they are a two crimp process one over the wire casing and then one over the bare wire.... looks like you soldered them... no need plug it in let play....

 

[Stigtheone]

That's for the sensored one, which you then have to solder wires on. I can get the sensor less with no soldering for about the same price on eBay.

So what is the working difference between a sensored one and a sensorless (except the obvious lol)?

As long as the TX was binder to that rx. I would bind it again to be sure... esc goes to channel 2 servo to channel 1 and the fan can go to channel 3...

Youn an program with the controller just takes longer with out the card thats all. And a head up the wires for the jst plugs only get crimped not soldered...for future reference bud...they are a two crimp process one over the wire casing and then one over the bare wire.... looks like you soldered them... no need plug it in let play....

I had to solder as I could only open the pin where it holds the wire in place not at the crimp where it crimps the actual wire, so soldered it to make sure it was secure and not had a good connection

As long as the TX was binder to that rx. I would bind it again to be sure... esc goes to channel 2 servo to channel 1 and the fan can go to channel 3...

Youn an program with the controller just takes longer with out the card thats all. And a head up the wires for the jst plugs only get crimped not soldered...for future reference bud...they are a two crimp process one over the wire casing and then one over the bare wire.... looks like you soldered them... no need plug it in let play....

What fan wire? My fan on the esc is wired into the esc itself? ANd there isn’t a fan for cooling the motor?

 

[Stigtheone]

*UPDATE*
It works!!!
Well, I connected the Rx and Tx from my Himoto Camper, did the binding and it works!!! Need to put it all back together after I’ve sorted the rotten grease in the diffs but fingers crossed she runs ok!! Going to have a blast later on then get rid of the battery’s and order the new one with charger!!! Woohoo cheers boys!!!

 

[WickedFog]

Awesome. Hope you have fun with it!

 

[biggman100]

So what is the working difference between a sensored one and a sensorless (except the obvious lol)?

I honestly am not sure if there is a difference between the two, except for the sensor function, which makes the motor run smoother, and is useful for racing. I havent raced in quite awhile, and have never raced with a brushless set up, so i never saw the need for a sensored ESC and motor, since it involves soldering (every sensored ESC i have ever seen involves soldering at least the motor wires on), which i despise doing.

 

[WickedFog]

Sensored motors are better for rock crawling. The sensor basically tells the esc where the rotor is, which is beneficial from zero RPM. It prevents cogging and also improves torque. Sensorless motors are better in the upper RPM's, hence, better for racing.

 

[Stigtheone]

Jesus just spent nearly two hours cleaning all the solid grease out of the diff and greasing it up, found it needs two o rings but stuck two in that I had laid around that will do for now...
took it out for a little test play and wow, the torque from standstill is unbelievable!!! It was pulling wheelies and I even accidentally flipped it after pulling the trigger too quick!!! All the wires seem ok none getting warm and the receiver seems fine, so god knows why it died in the first place but thanks again lads, now I need to learn how to program it pmsl

 

[Greywolf74]

That's for the sensored one, which you then have to solder wires on. I can get the sensor less with no soldering for about the same price on eBay.

You said the ones on eBay are $45. So youd rather spend an extra $7 on an ESC that is less capable because you dont want to solder wires on to the ESC? That doesn't even make sense.

So what is the working difference between a sensored one and a sensorless (except the obvious lol)?

A sensored set up lets the motor and the esc "talk" so the ESC always knows what position the rotor is in inside the motor so it can more accurately activate and deactivate the magnetic fields that cause the rotor to spin. The over all effect is a buttery smooth acceleration. You'll notice that sensorless set ups especially if you're trying to move them slowly will ocassionally have a stutter to them. Thats because the ESC has to take an educated guess as to what position the rotor is in.

You ever seen a modern day ceiling fan, when you first turn it on the blades have trouble moving at first and may even start to initially turn backwards before correcting and eventually spinning the right way and then getting up to speed? Once it gets moving you can adjust the speed of the ceiling fan and its adjust smoothly and properly. Thats an exaggerated form of a sensorless set up.

took it out for a little test play and wow, the torque from standstill is unbelievable!!! It was pulling wheelies and I even accidentally flipped it after pulling the trigger too quick!!! All the wires seem ok none getting warm and the receiver seems fine, so god knows why it died in the first place but thanks again lads, now I need to learn how to program it pmsl

Those of us who love nitros will always love nitro cuz nothing replaces the sound and smell of a combustion engine but the instant on power of electric is why almost everyone also falls in love with that side of the hobby as well. Glad you're enjoying it so far!

 

[Stigtheone]

You said the ones on eBay are $45. So youd rather spend an extra $7 on an ESC that is less capable because you dont want to solder wires on to the ESC? That doesn't even make sense.


A sensored set up lets the motor and the esc "talk" so the ESC always knows what position the rotor is in inside the motor so it can more accurately activate and deactivate the magnetic fields that cause the rotor to spin. The over all effect is a buttery smooth acceleration. You'll notice that sensorless set ups especially if you're trying to move them slowly will ocassionally have a stutter to them. Thats because the ESC has to take an educated guess as to what position the rotor is in.

You ever seen a modern day ceiling fan, when you first turn it on the blades have trouble moving at first and may even start to initially turn backwards before correcting and eventually spinning the right way and then getting up to speed? Once it gets moving you can adjust the speed of the ceiling fan and its adjust smoothly and properly. Thats an exaggerated form of a sensorless set up.


Those of us who love nitros will always love nitro cuz nothing replaces the sound and smell of a combustion engine but the instant on power of electric is why almost everyone also falls in love with that side of the hobby as well. Glad you're enjoying it so far!

Totally agree about the nitro sound and smell, love the scream like an old F1 car haha plus it’s a mini working engine etc like I work on so always loved them lol
But mate, it’s crazy how it wheelies if you’re too fast on the throttle!
Even managed to front flip it braking and roll it in a sharp turn!!!
The battery didn’t last that long like, it went from reading 8.36v/4.16v at the balance lead down to 6.36v/3.19v and was crawling home lol
Maybe it hasn’t got the low voltage shut off set correctly, gonna have to set it up and maybe turn the throttle response down cos my boys will defo flip this haha

 

[pug]

Totally agree about the nitro sound and smell, love the scream like an old F1 car haha plus it’s a mini working engine etc like I work on so always loved them lol
But mate, it’s crazy how it wheelies if you’re too fast on the throttle!
Even managed to front flip it braking and roll it in a sharp turn!!!
The battery didn’t last that long like, it went from reading 8.36v/4.16v at the balance lead down to 6.36v/3.19v and was crawling home lol
Maybe it hasn’t got the low voltage shut off set correctly, gonna have to set it up and maybe turn the throttle response down cos my boys will defo flip this haha

Never let it go below 3.3v per cell just to be safe. You might need a programming card to change the LVC.

 

[WickedFog]

It's funny how different it is to drive a nitro vs a brushless RC. My nitro Jato has enough power to rip it onto a wheelie and completely blow past the wheelie bar onto it's roof at lower speeds, but the Granite can easily do a standing backflip, and pull the wheels up doing 30+ mph on pavement.

My favorite thing about the Jato is when it hits that powerband and shifts into high gear. By then it is running like a bolt of lightning, then it just becomes a little missle climbing through high gear. It is the RC in my collection I fear the most being in the path of. You just know if it hit you, your leg bones won't slow it down much. The Granite at 50 mph would hurt too, but I would jump in its path to avoid the Jato lol.

 

[Stigtheone]

Never let it go below 3.3v per cell just to be safe. You might need a programming card to change the LVC.

Ok I’ll have to see what the manual says on that’s bud cheers, do you know why the voltages are different on one set to the other?

It's funny how different it is to drive a nitro vs a brushless RC. My nitro Jato has enough power to rip it onto a wheelie and completely blow past the wheelie bar onto it's roof at lower speeds, but the Granite can easily do a standing backflip, and pull the wheels up doing 30+ mph on pavement.

My favorite thing about the Jato is when it hits that powerband and shifts into high gear. By then it is running like a bolt of lightning, then it just becomes a little missle climbing through high gear. It is the RC in my collection I fear the most being in the path of. You just know if it hit you, your leg bones won't slow it down much. The Granite at 50 mph would hurt too, but I would jump in its path to avoid the Jato lol.

Haha I dont have a two speed nitro anymore, the last one I had was but it was a really really light weight touring car lol but the weight difference is unreal, loads lighter than the nitros bud defo I don’t think I’d jump in front of my Duratrax either and it’s not two speed either ahha

 

[Greywolf74]

Totally agree about the nitro sound and smell, love the scream like an old F1 car haha plus it’s a mini working engine etc like I work on so always loved them lol
But mate, it’s crazy how it wheelies if you’re too fast on the throttle!
Even managed to front flip it braking and roll it in a sharp turn!!!
The battery didn’t last that long like, it went from reading 8.36v/4.16v at the balance lead down to 6.36v/3.19v and was crawling home lol
Maybe it hasn’t got the low voltage shut off set correctly, gonna have to set it up and maybe turn the throttle response down cos my boys will defo flip this haha

I never go lower than 3.2V/C which is 6.4V for a 2S pack. If it measure 6.36V right after you got done running it then its probably ok. If it was 10 minutes later then the pack voltage should have rebounded higher than that and that may be a problem. The short run time is a problem that has to do with the small capacity of the pack and its puffed so its prolly not even putting out the stated capacity

 

[pug]

Ok I’ll have to see what the manual says on that’s bud cheers, do you know why the voltages are different on one set to the other?

Haha I dont have a two speed nitro anymore, the last one I had was but it was a really really light weight touring car lol but the weight difference is unreal, loads lighter than the nitros bud defo I don’t think I’d jump in front of my Duratrax either and it’s not two speed either ahha

If you want to find a good new battery, follow this amazing thread that @Greywolf74 made. It shows the performance of many different brands of batteries at different price points.

 

[Stigtheone]

I never go lower than 3.2V/C which is 6.4V for a 2S pack. If it measure 6.36V right after you got done running it then its probably ok. If it was 10 minutes later then the pack voltage should have rebounded higher than that and that may be a problem. The short run time is a problem that has to do with the small capacity of the pack and its puffed so its prolly not even putting out the stated capacity

So what are the two readings you get from the balance lead mate? Are they supposed to be different or the same?
The esc manual doesn’t mention programming without a card just how to do it with the card...
@pug I'm gonna buy the zeee battery I linked yesterday but I’ll take a look at that post when I get home!!! Thanks man !!!

 

[Greywolf74]

So what are the two readings you get from the balance lead mate? Are they supposed to be different or the same?
The esc manual doesn’t mention programming without a card just how to do it with the card...
@pug I'm gonna buy the zeee battery I linked yesterday but I’ll take a look at that post when I get home!!! Thanks man !!!

The balance leads will give you 3 different reading depending on which leads you test. One reading will be cell 1 by itself, one reading will be cell 2 by itself, and the third reading will be both cells combined which should be the sum of cells 1 and 2.

Id look for an HRB or Liperior battery over the Zee if you can find them. If not the Zee will work especially for a small kit.

 

[biggman100]

You said the ones on eBay are $45. So youd rather spend an extra $7 on an ESC that is less capable because you dont want to solder wires on to the ESC? That doesn't even make sense.

It does when the guy I have do all my soldering for me charges me $15-$20 for each job. I have soldered a motor and ESC exactly once, and because I suck at soldering, I watched the truck burn completely. No thanks. $7 to have everything already done is cheap compared to replacing the entire vehicle.

 

[pug]

It does when the guy I have do all my soldering for me charges me $15-$20 for each job. I have soldered a motor and ESC exactly once, and because I suck at soldering, I watched the truck burn completely. No thanks. $7 to have everything already done is cheap compared to replacing the entire vehicle.

Woah, the guy at my LHS made me a whole adapter for about $7, deans to IC5.

 

[Greywolf74]

So what are the two readings you get from the balance lead mate? Are they supposed to be different or the same?
The esc manual doesn’t mention programming without a card just how to do it with the card...
@pug I'm gonna buy the zeee battery I linked yesterday but I’ll take a look at that post when I get home!!! Thanks man !!!

I forgot to mention, whatever brand battery you buy make sure it will fit in your battery tray before you buy it! The sizes are not standardized!

It does when the guy I have do all my soldering for me charges me $15-$20 for each job. I have soldered a motor and ESC exactly once, and because I suck at soldering, I watched the truck burn completely. No thanks. $7 to have everything already done is cheap compared to replacing the entire vehicle.

Bro... Having electric RCs as your hobby and not learning how to solder is like having guns as a hobby and not learning how to actually shoot. We all suck when we first start out, you gotta practice. Practice on pieces of wire till you get a half way decent handle on it then do you battery connectors and then your ESCs.

 

[Stigtheone]

I never go lower than 3.2V/C which is 6.4V for a 2S pack. If it measure 6.36V right after you got done running it then its probably ok. If it was 10 minutes later then the pack voltage should have rebounded higher than that and that may be a problem. The short run time is a problem that has to do with the small capacity of the pack and its puffed so its prolly not even putting out the stated capacity

So what are the two readings you get from the balance lead mate? Are they supposed to be different or the same?
The esc manual doesn’t mention programming without a card just how to do it with the card...
@pug I'm gonna buy the zeee battery I linked yesterday but I’ll take a look at that post when I get home!!! Thanks man !!!

The balance leads will give you 3 different reading depending on which leads you test. One reading will be cell 1 by itself, one reading will be cell 2 by itself, and the third reading will be both cells combined which should be the sum of cells 1 and 2.

Id look for an HRB or Liperior battery over the Zee if you can find them. If not the Zee will work especially for a small kit.

I can only work out two readings, red/black and blue/black which gave the figures above... so the highest is the combined volts and the car died at over 6v so the battery must be really dead then?

I forgot to mention, whatever brand battery you buy make sure it will fit in your battery tray before you buy it! The sizes are not standardized!


Bro... Having electric RCs as your hobby and not learning how to solder is like having guns as a hobby and not learning how to actually shoot. We all suck when we first start out, you gotta practice. Practice on pieces of wire till you get a half way decent handle on it then do you battery connectors and then your ESCs.

I only know how to solder through fixing stuff on cars or my own repairs through being totally stingy and not wanting to pay for anything I don’t have to lol