Just been given this to fix... gonna need some help tho!!!

[Stigtheone]

On a side note- why have I not seen these before lol

 

[biggman100]

On a side note- why have I not seen these before lol

Those are expensive. My brother has one, and a hobby shop i do go to rarely has a few of them.

 

[Greywolf74]

They got beat but they are in the wrong league atm, they’re a newly set up team, but the team works hard and our player got man of the match again, so it’s all good mate thanks!
And yeah I read the link you sent it’s gonna be useful to set the brake and acceleration, much appreciated!
And I’ll check out the LVC, any recommendations on brands to check out bud, don’t want to waste money wrecking a brand new Lipo! Suppose that’s what has been happening to this Lipo along with the charger being a simple type?

If you can set the LVC in the ESC to 3.2V/C or higher then you dont need a low voltage alarm. If you can't set it then you can get them pretty cheap off of eBay. Like THIS

On a side note- why have I not seen these before lol

You can buy em off of eBay but they were limited editions and are no longer available so the price is pretty stupid. I love the Snap On van body though

 

[Stigtheone]

Those are expensive. My brother has one, and a hobby shop i do go to rarely has a few of them.

The shell is £299 for a used one on eBay right now mate!!!

If you can set the LVC in the ESC to 3.2V/C or higher then you dont need a low voltage alarm. If you can't set it then you can get them pretty cheap off of eBay. Like THIS


You can buy em off of eBay but they were limited editions and are no longer available so the price is pretty stupid. I love the Snap On van body though

The manual only says 6v (3 v per cell) so I’ll probs need that LVC bud, cheers! And yeah that snap on truck is cool AF also saw one of those Traxx with the tracks on it at local shop today that was mint- but I think I’m gonna get one of those Tamiya things next as I really want a few of the phat body shells, seen an old escort one a while back and really want one and probably a few more lol

 

[biggman100]

just because the esc is sensored doesn't mean you have to run it that way it will work either motor. Did you KNOW that guess not

I finally found the article i read awhile back when i was first researching BL, and it contradicts what you just said here. This is a direct quote from that article: For obvious reasons you can not take a sensored ESC and use it with a sensorless motor. IF the sensored ESC has the ability to operate as a sensorless ESC, the motor will also be treated as above – sensorless synchronization. This is that article: https://www.radiocontrolinfo.com/sensored-vs-sensorless-brushless-motor-applications/ Basically, this and many other articles i read when doing my research, all said the same thing, that IF the sensored ESC is capable of operating as a sensorless ESC, it will work with a sensorless motor (which all of mine are), but, only if it has the ability to be both sensored and sensorless, which means i would not only have to buy the sensored ESC, but a sensored motor to go with it, which way ups the price. Speaking of price, for the sensored ESC, it is $39.99 direct from HW, the wire is $10-$13 for 3 feet, the connectors are between $4 and $15, the heat shrink is $4, and the solder is around $4, so, your $39.99 ESC is now up to, at the very least $60, and the one i get, with programming card is $39.98 on eBay. To me, that is a no brainer, and way more convenient, since every article i read said a sensored ESC was only good for the one thing i have no interest in at all, rock crawling.

View attachment 135333Thanks for all the pointers peeps, @biggman100 @WickedFog @StonerRC365 this is the controller it came with, says etronix pulse on it, I can find the replacement receiver on eBay straight away so that isn’t a problem, £12 delivered- the esc is available too but it’s £45 delivered (yikes lol)

@Greywolf74 i have the correct charger that came with the car, basically have everything it came with here. The battery voltages are;
Red/black 8.36v
Blue/Black 4.16v
I guess that’s a problem?
Also the battery is in a plastic bonded case, it MAY be very very slightly pushed out at the centre but that could be how it came for all I know as it’s so slight I could be just imagining it! Is it worth popping open? Or is that a bit dodgy lol

@StonerRC365 Yeah that’s the wires that are burned my apologies I don’t know Jack about these electric RCs yet! And the receiver has a hole right between (and behind) the signal LED and VCC port if that means anything to you bud?

I get the feeling this may not be worth the money it will take to fix it, if it needs new battery, esc and receiver especially when I’m trying to sort the two nitro cars I have already haha starting to see how this hobby gets expensive lol
another thin I’ve noticed as I’m stripping it down, is this stuff in the front diff- it’s almost rock solid like epoxy putty, not at all like grease, surely this isn’t right?

I was going to reply to this sooner, but got wrapped up in other parts of this whole thing. Sorry about that. The radio is a rebranded FlySky (FS-GT2), and will actually work with not only Etronix but also certain FlySky receivers (FS GR3C), so that helps widen the field for finding a better receiver than the stock one, as most Etronix receivers can be problematic (at least, in my experience they can be, but some people seem to really like them). As for your comment about whether it is worth keeping or putting any money into, take a look at this video:

This guy did a one year review on the Bugsta, and his thoughts on it. I found him while searching out info about another FTX/HobbyKing car, the Vantage.

The FS GR3C is 3 Channel, which gives you and extra channel to add lights or other accessories if you decide to.

 

[Greywolf74]

I finally found the article i read awhile back when i was first researching BL, and it contradicts what you just said here. This is a direct quote from that article: For obvious reasons you can not take a sensored ESC and use it with a sensorless motor. IF the sensored ESC has the ability to operate as a sensorless ESC, the motor will also be treated as above – sensorless synchronization. This is that article: https://www.radiocontrolinfo.com/sensored-vs-sensorless-brushless-motor-applications/ Basically, this and many other articles i read when doing my research, all said the same thing, that IF the sensored ESC is capable of operating as a sensorless ESC, it will work with a sensorless motor (which all of mine are), but, only if it has the ability to be both sensored and sensorless, which means i would not only have to buy the sensored ESC, but a sensored motor to go with it, which way ups the price. every article i read said a sensored ESC was only good for the one thing i have no interest in at all, rock crawling.

I have yet to see a sensored esc that couldnt operate in sensorless mode. They may exist but most sensored will do both. The HW in particular that weve been talking about will do both.

Its good for rock crawling and racing. Bashing obviously doesn't matter but its a nice feature to have even on a basher imho. I get why it doesn't make sense in your case though.

 

[Stigtheone]

I finally found the article i read awhile back when i was first researching BL, and it contradicts what you just said here. This is a direct quote from that article: For obvious reasons you can not take a sensored ESC and use it with a sensorless motor. IF the sensored ESC has the ability to operate as a sensorless ESC, the motor will also be treated as above – sensorless synchronization. This is that article: https://www.radiocontrolinfo.com/sensored-vs-sensorless-brushless-motor-applications/ Basically, this and many other articles i read when doing my research, all said the same thing, that IF the sensored ESC is capable of operating as a sensorless ESC, it will work with a sensorless motor (which all of mine are), but, only if it has the ability to be both sensored and sensorless, which means i would not only have to buy the sensored ESC, but a sensored motor to go with it, which way ups the price. Speaking of price, for the sensored ESC, it is $39.99 direct from HW, the wire is $10-$13 for 3 feet, the connectors are between $4 and $15, the heat shrink is $4, and the solder is around $4, so, your $39.99 ESC is now up to, at the very least $60, and the one i get, with programming card is $39.98 on eBay. To me, that is a no brainer, and way more convenient, since every article i read said a sensored ESC was only good for the one thing i have no interest in at all, rock crawling.

I was going to reply to this sooner, but got wrapped up in other parts of this whole thing. Sorry about that. The radio is a rebranded FlySky (FS-GT2), and will actually work with not only Etronix but also certain FlySky receivers (FS GR3C), so that helps widen the field for finding a better receiver than the stock one, as most Etronix receivers can be problematic (at least, in my experience they can be, but some people seem to really like them). As for your comment about whether it is worth keeping or putting any money into, take a look at this video:

This guy did a one year review on the Bugsta, and his thoughts on it. I found him while searching out info about another FTX/HobbyKing car, the Vantage.

The FS GR3C is 3 Channel, which gives you and extra channel to add lights or other accessories if you decide to.

Nice one mate don’t worry about the late reply!
I’m happy to keep it now I know it’s worth keeping and works already!
It’s very clean and in good condition so that’s a bonus too!
I’ll keep an eye on those receivers, I was just gonna get the same type tbh, but I’ll see what they go for.
Thanks again!
@biggman100 so a quick search on eBay only brings up the GR3E mate, is this gonna work?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Flysk...jCS46Ww7lRYU2XlMTROm8tNfeOEOiWbAaArBqEALw_wcB

 

[Greywolf74]

Nice one mate don’t worry about the late reply!
I’m happy to keep it now I know it’s worth keeping and works already!
It’s very clean and in good condition so that’s a bonus too!
I’ll keep an eye on those receivers, I was just gonna get the same type tbh, but I’ll see what they go for.
Thanks again!
@biggman100 so a quick search on eBay only brings up the GR3E mate, is this gonna work?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Flysk...jCS46Ww7lRYU2XlMTROm8tNfeOEOiWbAaArBqEALw_wcB

It does appear to be a clone so yes, that should work.

 

[biggman100]

Nice one mate don’t worry about the late reply!
I’m happy to keep it now I know it’s worth keeping and works already!
It’s very clean and in good condition so that’s a bonus too!
I’ll keep an eye on those receivers, I was just gonna get the same type tbh, but I’ll see what they go for.
Thanks again!
@biggman100 so a quick search on eBay only brings up the GR3E mate, is this gonna work?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Flysk...jCS46Ww7lRYU2XlMTROm8tNfeOEOiWbAaArBqEALw_wcB

As long as the receiver uses GFSK, it should work.

EDIT: The GR3E won't work. It's AFHDS, not GFSK.

 

[biggman100]

This is the 3 channel that works with your radio: https://www.rcgeeks.co.uk/products/etronix-pulse-3-channel-2-4ghz-receiver You can either use the 2 channel or the 3 channel, but, it has to be a GFSK receiver for the Etronix Pulse EX2 sport radio. One thing you want to look for is to make sure it is waterproof.

EDIT: This one is directly from Etronix, and is the same as the other one: https://www.etronix-rc.com/etronix-pulse-gfsk-3ch-2-4ghz-receiver The one thing i can't seem to find out is if it is waterproof or not. My honest opinion though, i would look for a better radio. The GT2 wasn't the best radio, and could be glitchy at times. I dont know if you have them where you are at, but, i would look for a Redcat Racing or HSP 3 channel radio. They are rebranded FlySky stuff, but, the newer FHSS stuff is better than the GFSK older style, and the AFHDS is one of the best FlySky systems they make. The issue is, they are marketed under so many names and companies, the best way to find them by protocol (GFSK, FHSS, AFHDS), which is what the radio uses to "talk" if you will to the receiver. Redcat brands them as the RCR-2CE, HSP brands them as the MT300 and MT305, and there is also the FS GT2B and FS GT3B. The FS GT2B is a single model radio, and, as someone mentioned earlier, the GT3B can control up to ten different vehicles, just not all at the same time.

 

[Stigtheone]

This is the 3 channel that works with your radio: https://www.rcgeeks.co.uk/products/etronix-pulse-3-channel-2-4ghz-receiver You can either use the 2 channel or the 3 channel, but, it has to be a GFSK receiver for the Etronix Pulse EX2 sport radio. One thing you want to look for is to make sure it is waterproof.

EDIT: This one is directly from Etronix, and is the same as the other one: https://www.etronix-rc.com/etronix-pulse-gfsk-3ch-2-4ghz-receiver The one thing i can't seem to find out is if it is waterproof or not. My honest opinion though, i would look for a better radio. The GT2 wasn't the best radio, and could be glitchy at times. I dont know if you have them where you are at, but, i would look for a Redcat Racing or HSP 3 channel radio. They are rebranded FlySky stuff, but, the newer FHSS stuff is better than the GFSK older style, and the AFHDS is one of the best FlySky systems they make. The issue is, they are marketed under so many names and companies, the best way to find them by protocol (GFSK, FHSS, AFHDS), which is what the radio uses to "talk" if you will to the receiver. Redcat brands them as the RCR-2CE, HSP brands them as the MT300 and MT305, and there is also the FS GT2B and FS GT3B. The FS GT2B is a single model radio, and, as someone mentioned earlier, the GT3B can control up to ten different vehicles, just not all at the same time.

How about getting one like the Himoto one I’m using from my nitro rc? Then presumably I could use the same Tx for both cars couldn’t I? The one I have is the MT300
@Greywolf74 so do I just plug that alarm into the balance lead wen I take the car out?

 

[Stigtheone]

So I just went out after charging the battery last night and gave it a solid run about, probably for around 20-30 mins ish. The car seems great, motor is warm but not hot, esc feels fine and all wiring is fine too not warm at all. Also, when it cut out and started crawling I measured 6.47v (3.19v and 3.28v) so it cut out before it got down to 3v each cell...

 

[Greywolf74]

This is the 3 channel that works with your radio: https://www.rcgeeks.co.uk/products/etronix-pulse-3-channel-2-4ghz-receiver You can either use the 2 channel or the 3 channel, but, it has to be a GFSK receiver for the Etronix Pulse EX2 sport radio. One thing you want to look for is to make sure it is waterproof.

EDIT: This one is directly from Etronix, and is the same as the other one: https://www.etronix-rc.com/etronix-pulse-gfsk-3ch-2-4ghz-receiver The one thing i can't seem to find out is if it is waterproof or not. My honest opinion though, i would look for a better radio. The GT2 wasn't the best radio, and could be glitchy at times. I dont know if you have them where you are at, but, i would look for a Redcat Racing or HSP 3 channel radio. They are rebranded FlySky stuff, but, the newer FHSS stuff is better than the GFSK older style, and the AFHDS is one of the best FlySky systems they make. The issue is, they are marketed under so many names and companies, the best way to find them by protocol (GFSK, FHSS, AFHDS), which is what the radio uses to "talk" if you will to the receiver. Redcat brands them as the RCR-2CE, HSP brands them as the MT300 and MT305, and there is also the FS GT2B and FS GT3B. The FS GT2B is a single model radio, and, as someone mentioned earlier, the GT3B can control up to ten different vehicles, just not all at the same time.

I'm not sure that the protocol and the modulation frequency are the same thing. For example the Flysky RX says AFHDS on the RX but the specs say the modulation mode is GFSK

How about getting one like the Himoto one I’m using from my nitro rc? Then presumably I could use the same Tx for both cars couldn’t I? The one I have is the MT300
@Greywolf74 so do I just plug that alarm into the balance lead wen I take the car out?

Yeah you just plug it in to the balance plug right before you start bashing and when it starts alarming bring the kit in and charge the lipo. Make sure you use the button at the top of the alarm after you plug it in the first time to set the LVC amount. You only have to do this once and then it will stay on that setting until its changed. Probably a good idea to secure the alarm somehow or it will probably go flying. Id use a little velcro on the battery near the balance plug and some on the back of the alarm.

You can only use the same radio with multiple receivers if the radio has multi-memory capability like the Flysky GT3b can control up to 10 different receivers albeit one at a time. The MT300 is not a multi-memory radio. In order to switch your radio back and forth to multiple transmitters you would have to rebind the radio to the receiver you want to control every time you wanted to switch.

So I just went out after charging the battery last night and gave it a solid run about, probably for around 20-30 mins ish. The car seems great, motor is warm but not hot, esc feels fine and all wiring is fine too not warm at all. Also, when it cut out and started crawling I measured 6.47v (3.19v and 3.28v) so it cut out before it got down to 3v each cell...

Sounds like the LVC is set a little low. I think earlier in the thread the ESC is set by default to 3.0V/C which is reflected in your numbers there. It will probably be fine in that small rig.

 

[biggman100]

I'm not sure that the protocol and the modulation frequency are the same thing. For example the Flysky RX says AFHDS on the RX but the specs say the modulation mode is GFSK
View attachment 135511
View attachment 135512

I thought they were the same. I do know that the GR3E receiver that the FS GT3B uses wont bind to the FS GT2 radio. I have several different FS radios, and my GT1 and GT2 wont bind with the GR3E receiver that i have for my GT3B, but my GT2 will bind with my GR3C receiver, and the GT1 wont. This is one of the FS GT2 i have:

And, this is the receiver that matches it:

And that receiver wont bind to my FS GT3B, and, according to my research, its because my FS GT2 is FHSS, and the GT3B is AFHDS. I also have another FS GT2, that is GFSK, and that wont bind to either the GR3E or the receiver in the pic, but will bind to my FS GR3C. When i was researching it all, my thought was, can't they just stick to one and make it easy, but i guess thats to complicated for some companies.

EDIT: To make it even more complicated, DHK Hobby uses rebranded FS stuff, but, since DHK uses a proprietary protocol, their radios wont bind with any of my other FS receivers. I finally just gave up, and thats how i ended up with the GT3B and 9 matching receivers.

How about getting one like the Himoto one I’m using from my nitro rc? Then presumably I could use the same Tx for both cars couldn’t I? The one I have is the MT300

You can do that, but, it comes with a downside. Every radio is set up for the car it controls, including trim settings, and if you use it with another receiver on another car, every time you switch from one car to the other, you will have to reset all the settings, at least, that was my experience the two times i tried it, and its what i had also been told by others as well.

 

[Greywolf74]

I thought they were the same. I do know that the GR3E receiver that the FS GT3B uses wont bind to the FS GT2 radio. I have several different FS radios, and my GT1 and GT2 wont bind with the GR3E receiver that i have for my GT3B, but my GT2 will bind with my GR3C receiver, and the GT1 wont. This is one of the FS GT2 i have:

View attachment 135513


And, this is the receiver that matches it:

View attachment 135514

And that receiver wont bind to my FS GT3B, and, according to my research, its because my FS GT2 is FHSS, and the GT3B is AFHDS. I also have another FS GT2, that is GFSK, and that wont bind to either the GR3E or the receiver in the pic, but will bind to my FS GR3C. When i was researching it all, my thought was, can't they just stick to one and make it easy, but i guess thats to complicated for some companies.

EDIT: To make it even more complicated, DHK Hobby uses rebranded FS stuff, but, since DHK uses a proprietary protocol, their radios wont bind with any of my other FS receivers. I finally just gave up, and thats how i ended up with the GT3B and 9 matching receivers.

You can do that, but, it comes with a downside. Every radio is set up for the car it controls, including trim settings, and if you use it with another receiver on another car, every time you switch from one car to the other, you will have to reset all the settings, at least, that was my experience the two times i tried it, and its what i had also been told by others as well.

I'm not really sure about the whole protocol vs modulation mode part. I'm made an assumption based on what I saw in the specs on banggood. That being said I went and looked on Flysky's website and they dont list a "modulation mode" in their specs. The GT2 and the GT3b both us AFHDS1 so I would think any RXs that the GT3b uses the GT2 should be able to use as well. In fact their website says the GR3E is compatible with the GT2. If this is true and the Etronix radio is an exact clone of the GT2 then the Etronix radio should work with the GR3E. (Flysky's website makes no mention of a GR3C, only GR3E and GR3F. Maybe the C is discontinued and that why?) That being said IDK that the Etronix is an exact clone. Like you said it could be a clone with a different protocol in use and I can't seem to establish if wireless protocols are the same thing as modulation modes or not. I've been reading through a fair amount of material online this morning trying to figure this out but nothing really spells out the differences that i can find.

 

[STONER RC]

I finally found the article i read awhile back when i was first researching BL, and it contradicts what you just said here. This is a direct quote from that article: For obvious reasons you can not take a sensored ESC and use it with a sensorless motor. IF the sensored ESC has the ability to operate as a sensorless ESC, the motor will also be treated as above – sensorless synchronization. This is that article: https://www.radiocontrolinfo.com/sensored-vs-sensorless-brushless-motor-applications/

How the hell does that contradict what I said?? Never said to get a sensored motor. Just said the esc's are cheaper on HW. Because I'm sure you dont run sensored motors correct?? Sure you not going to buy a sensored set up..So what's that matter and here you go bud..
The HW have auto detection doesn't matter what your motor is..so do you not understand that it doesn't matter..read the specs man

https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/products/quicrun-10-sensored?variant=710246737

https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/products/quicrun-10bl120-esc?variant=2139725987868

https://rcdedication.com/sensored-esc-with-sensorless-motor/

 

[Stigtheone]

I'm not really sure about the whole protocol vs modulation mode part. I'm made an assumption based on what I saw in the specs on banggood. That being said I went and looked on Flysky's website and they dont list a "modulation mode" in their specs. The GT2 and the GT3b both us AFHDS1 so I would think any RXs that the GT3b uses the GT2 should be able to use as well. In fact their website says the GR3E is compatible with the GT2. If this is true and the Etronix radio is an exact clone of the GT2 then the Etronix radio should work with the GR3E. (Flysky's website makes no mention of a GR3C, only GR3E and GR3F. Maybe the C is discontinued and that why?) That being said IDK that the Etronix is an exact clone. Like you said it could be a clone with a different protocol in use and I can't seem to establish if wireless protocols are the same thing as modulation modes or not. I've been reading through a fair amount of material online this morning trying to figure this out but nothing really spells out the differences that i can find.

Yeah.... now I’m lost with all this radio talk mate haha I might just get the one that matches the etronix Tx and save the hassle for now then I cannot just fit the himoto Tx/Rx back to my nitro!
I didn’t even change any trim settings tbh it drive spot on but I think I’ll set the throttle and brake up soon to make sure I’m getting full signal

 

[biggman100]

I'm not really sure about the whole protocol vs modulation mode part. I'm made an assumption based on what I saw in the specs on banggood. That being said I went and looked on Flysky's website and they dont list a "modulation mode" in their specs. The GT2 and the GT3b both us AFHDS1 so I would think any RXs that the GT3b uses the GT2 should be able to use as well. In fact their website says the GR3E is compatible with the GT2. If this is true and the Etronix radio is an exact clone of the GT2 then the Etronix radio should work with the GR3E. (Flysky's website makes no mention of a GR3C, only GR3E and GR3F. Maybe the C is discontinued and that why?) That being said IDK that the Etronix is an exact clone. Like you said it could be a clone with a different protocol in use and I can't seem to establish if wireless protocols are the same thing as modulation modes or not. I've been reading through a fair amount of material online this morning trying to figure this out but nothing really spells out the differences that i can find.

With FlySky, and especially the rebrands (Redcat, Exceed RC, FTX, and most other cheaper brands) it is sometimes nearly impossible to get any specs from them. For my RCR-2CE, i had to go through the FCC site to actually figure it out.

Yeah.... now I’m lost with all this radio talk mate haha I might just get the one that matches the etronix Tx and save the hassle for now then I cannot just fit the himoto Tx/Rx back to my nitro!
I didn’t even change any trim settings tbh it drive spot on but I think I’ll set the throttle and brake up soon to make sure I’m getting full signal

To make it easy, i would just go with the 3 Channel i posted above from Etronix.

 

[STONER RC]

Yeah.... now I’m lost with all this radio talk mate haha I might just get the one that matches the etronix Tx and save the hassle for now then I cannot just fit the himoto Tx/Rx back to my nitro!
I didn’t even change any trim settings tbh it drive spot on but I think I’ll set the throttle and brake up soon to make sure I’m getting full signal

It's not that confusing bud. Just got to many people throwing poop at you..and one saying something and another saying no do it another way.. All you need is a 2 channel radio and reciver . the nitros have 3 channels because some of them need the 3rd for reverse. Electric only needs 2 channels.. the steering channel1
Esc/power channel 2. Thats is all you need. Unless you what to run lights. Which why run lights unless it's a crawler.. for the scale look of it.. thats it

OK, i am totally lost one one part of this, and that is the 60A sensored vs sensorless. One, no i dont see how a sensorless is better, since they are supposedly only better for rock crawling, which, frankly, i can't stand, and, two, i can get the sensorless, with program card (which is $10 by itself), on ebay right now for the same price as the sensored (without program card) from HW direct: https://www.ebay.com/itm/234235881158 So where do you see that i am spending $10 more on it? And, what you can't seem to understand is that, to me, i am not spending anymore for the 120A sensorless, since, for the sensored, you have to buy wires, solder, connectors, and heat shrink, and by the time you buy all that, you are at over $60 for the 120A sensored, and it is $58 or less on eBay for the sensorless 120A, so where do you see that i am spending any more or any less with how i do it?

EDIT: Right now, the sensorless HW 120A is on eBay for $56.95: https://www.ebay.com/itm/233595603822?hash=item3663620b6e:g:xI4AAOSw-wVex3dE

Holly poop man you are so dam hard headed. No one said better. From hobby wing it's cheaper.. FU*K EBAY

 

[Stigtheone]

It's not that confusing bud. Just got to many people throwing poop at you..and one saying something and another saying no do it another way.. All you need is a 2 channel radio and reciver . the nitros have 3 channels because some of them need the 3rd for reverse. Electric only needs 2 channels.. the steering channel1
Esc/power channel 2. Thats is all you need. Unless you what to run lights. Which why run lights unless it's a crawler.. for the scale look of it.. thats it

Holly poop man you are so dam hard headed. No one said better. From hobby wing it's cheaper.. FU*K EBAY

Haha it’s all new to me so it’s just hard to keep up sometimes! I will just order the replacement Rx for now then I know it’s going to fit straight ones work with the Tx perfect too!
I have a feeling I’ll end up buying another electric rc in the future haha