Go Fast Car Build?

[Edough13]

Lassen, that explains the smoke. Although we got hit so bad a few years back I couldn't see down the block. I've got a buddy that retired up there, supposed to be beautiful and not a lot of people to get in your way.

Wow, thanks for the details, it's very helpful.

Geez that's a lot of space, I don't know that I can see the dang thing. Maybe some right paint and flashy LEDs will help? The other thing is I'm in San Jose and it's getting pretty packed around here. I'm quite sure where I'm going to run this beast.

The motor advise is solid. I'm aiming for 100-150 to start. The 1717 is a drop in and seems like the easiest route at the moment. There are two versions of the 1717.
Castle 1717 1Y Sensored Motor - 1260Kv
Castle 1717 1Y Sensored Motor - 1650Kv
Castle Says:

Is the 1650 and gear down the right choice?

Yes I have both and have seen many others have the higher heat issue with the 1260kv also. Like I said I'm still running the 1650kv now and so far to 145mph and more left in it so going to see what it will top out this year before I go to either the 2028 or new 1721.

I can say, that from the YT videos I've seen, the Limitless is popular, and the XO-1 is the easiest way to get 100mph with no fuss (mostly).

For the radio, I know a few people use the DumboRC X6 radio and receiver, though you can use pretty much any 2.4ghz receiver. The X6 version has 6 channels, with a built in gyro. You'll probably want to turn that gyro down low for speed runs, or completely off, as an auto correction at that speed could be bad, note that to use the gyro function, you'll need the original gyro or another gyro-enabled receiver. The X4 is a few bucks cheaper, you lose the gyro and the 5th channel, so you have 4 channels, which is still enough for most uses. The DumboRC radios have a range of up to and over 1600 feet, and the response is fast too, nearly if not on par with some race radios!

Oh, and did I say, the cherry on the top is that it's usually under $40! I know that seems too cheap to be true, but I have one, and MANY people like me love it!

It's a great radio for bashing but not so much for speed runs. I tried it when I started and had range issues and also at distance would have take offs and glitches with throttle. The best option is either the RC6GS V2 which I run and to 1300ft away easy perfect connection no issues at all. Other option is the Noble but needs a range booster added and is more expensive over the RC6GS V2 even before having to buy the range booster etc.

 

[The_RC_Dude]

The Radiolink RC6GS V2 is also another good choice for about $80 USD, it can have a range of up to 600m! I got one and it's great, but it is a little bulky.

Cool! The response, range, features, and value of the DumboRC stuff is pretty much unbeatable. True, it doesn't have a screen, just manual knobs (but a lot of adjustability at that), but for <$40, and all those features, whatcha gonna do?! It used to be as cheap as $25-$30 a couple of years ago, but for under $40, it is still insane! TBH, how is anyone gonna see a car that's over 1.5 thousand feet away?! Even if you stand on your car's roof (like some speed run guys, for visability and range) and it's a big car like the Limitless, you still may have a hard time seeing it clearly! The DumboRC RX isn't very bulky, sure, you can get smaller, lighter radios, but IIRC it weighs about a pound, it feels good in the hand, especially for the price (brings shame to a lot of the cheap radios that come on budget cars!), and as people have noted online, the steering and throttle feels smooth and high-quality. Bear in mind, I'm not comparing it to a $380 Flysky Noble Pro!

Lassen, that explains the smoke. Although we got hit so bad a few years back I couldn't see down the block. I've got a buddy that retired up there, supposed to be beautiful and not a lot of people to get in your way.

Wow, thanks for the details, it's very helpful.

Geez that's a lot of space, I don't know that I can see the dang thing. Maybe some right paint and flashy LEDs will help? The other thing is I'm in San Jose and it's getting pretty packed around here. I'm quite sure where I'm going to run this beast.

The motor advise is solid. I'm aiming for 100-150 to start. The 1717 is a drop in and seems like the easiest route at the moment. There are two versions of the 1717.
Castle 1717 1Y Sensored Motor - 1260Kv
Castle 1717 1Y Sensored Motor - 1650Kv
Castle Says:

Is the 1650 and gear down the right choice?

You could paint it in bright colors, and back the shell with white paint after the original paint dries to make the paint "pop" more, it's a common trick. Black will do the opposite, making the colors a little "duller". You can also secure a high powered flashlight/torch to the body shell, it may not look professional, but it should do the trick. I use a small bike light (which I take off my MTB, mountain bike) that I velcro to the body shell for those quick night run blasts up and down the street.

Yes I have both and have seen many others have the higher heat issue with the 1260kv also. Like I said I'm still running the 1650kv now and so far to 145mph and more left in it so going to see what it will top out this year before I go to either the 2028 or new 1721.

It's a great radio for bashing but not so much for speed runs. I tried it when I started and had range issues and also at distance would have take offs and glitches with throttle. The best option is either the RC6GS V2 which I run and to 1300ft away easy perfect connection no issues at all. Other option is the Noble but needs a range booster added and is more expensive over the RC6GS V2 even before having to buy the range booster etc.

It is best for bashing, but can work for other purposes. Kevin Talbot uses a DumboRC X6 on his XO-1 and his "Project 203MPH RC car". I have also had some slightly laggy throttle responses at range (like maybe 200ft away), but that is probably because sometimes the AAs aren't fresh and plus my cars are smaller (1/14 scale and 1/16 scale) so I might not be able to see the action clearly.

 

[Jerold]

For the radio, I'm thinking Futaba, Radio Link or the Dumbo all good choices.

On YT UKTU did a bunch of tests and the look pretty objective. They all looked pretty good, but there was one mishap with the Dumbo RC when it lost range. I'm not sure if this is common or if it's one time thing, may interference?
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTbpxPrqWU8y30YY5qcELAA/search?query=radiolink

Either way, I would hate to loose control of a car doing 100 Mph. Forget about the damage ($) involved I don't want anyone to get hurt. A 10lb car at 150 mph is (7522 ft-lb energy) is about 9x that of a .45 cal. So, yah you can kill someone.

A compilation of his tests and it looks like the RadioLink is the best value. Spektrum is surprising too. Full credit to UTKU on YouTube.

I use a small bike light (which I take off my MTB, mountain bike) that I velcro to the body shell for those quick night run blasts up and down the street.

That's a great idea. You can find flashing bike lights on Amazon pretty cheap.

Another option is LED strips

 

[Edough13]

Like I said from experience the Dumbo will work at shorter distance and I'd trust it up to 100mph. I ran it with my Typhon to I believe about 110mph but had range issues I mentioned above. When reaching speeds as high as 150mph you need A LOT of room to not only get up to speed but stop also and that's where the Dumbo fails to perform. Also the reciever is a single antenna and gave me interference issues where the RC6GS v2 is a dual antenna giving better range and less interference.
For seeing the car unless you run at dusk or dark lights at 1300ft can't really be seen no matter how bright as they are so small. I suggest a bright color body and have the rear a different color to help see and know what end is pointed twords you. I just did my new GT body in florescent yellow and orange for that reason as with the stock blue Limitless body I had issues making sure it was turned around and pointing the right direction. A lot of speed runners will stand on a ladder to help see also, I personally don't but if you have sight issues it's something to consider. Here is my body I've yet to run it but I think will be a lot better and help for seeing it at the long distances for sure. Again speed running is not for everyone and all these things are very important to consider especially for speeds in excess of 130mph. Up to 100mph is a lot different and can be done with less distance, darker color car, less range radio etc but when pushing the higher speeds(130+) what I mentioned above is an absolute must.

 

[Jerold]

Slightly off topic. My other thread trying to see if we can finance it. If we had access to a dragstrip in Norcal, would anybody be interested?
https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/norcal-go-fast-fun-event.133459/
Click like on that thread if you are. So far - Zero, Ziltch, nada interest. I'm guessing it not going to happen.

 

[The_RC_Dude]

For the radio, I'm thinking Futaba, Radio Link or the Dumbo all good choices.

On YT UKTU did a bunch of tests and the look pretty objective. They all looked pretty good, but there was one mishap with the Dumbo RC when it lost range. I'm not sure if this is common or if it's one time thing, may interference?
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTbpxPrqWU8y30YY5qcELAA/search?query=radiolink

Either way, I would hate to loose control of a car doing 100 Mph. Forget about the damage ($) involved I don't want anyone to get hurt. A 10lb car at 150 mph is (7522 ft-lb energy) is about 9x that of a .45 cal. So, yah you can kill someone.

A compilation of his tests and it looks like the RadioLink is the best value. Spektrum is surprising too. Full credit to UTKU on YouTube.

View attachment 141686

That's a great idea. You can find flashing bike lights on Amazon pretty cheap.

Another option is LED strips

Yeah, those are reffered to as "blinkies" in the MTB world, because, well, they can blink on the two second modes! They are super cheap, at like less than $3 for one, and they get even cheaper when bought in bulk! The use two coin-cell batteries, but don't expect too much out of the two coin cells and the two LEDs, they are more like safety lights, they will not light up your path at all! The battery life is impressive, I've gotten over like 8 months with casual riding. Some of them (like the ones we bought) even include spare coin cells, which is nice, as those coin cells can be $$! I'm not sure if you can see a Blinky from that distance though.

The FLysky GT5 is another good option, it's under $80, but has a screen with plenty of adjustability, and it's lightweight. As you may know, it also has an attenna in the front that can be folded up for even more range. It's one of the best radios IMO in the ~$80 range. IIRC, Redcat Racing has a rebranded GT5, it's the same thing, but about $15-$20 cheaper!

Like I said from experience the Dumbo will work at shorter distance and I'd trust it up to 100mph. I ran it with my Typhon to I believe about 110mph but had range issues I mentioned above. When reaching speeds as high as 150mph you need A LOT of room to not only get up to speed but stop also and that's where the Dumbo fails to perform. Also the reciever is a single antenna and gave me interference issues where the RC6GS v2 is a dual antenna giving better range and less interference.
For seeing the car unless you run at dusk or dark lights at 1300ft can't really be seen no matter how bright as they are so small. I suggest a bright color body and have the rear a different color to help see and know what end is pointed twords you. I just did my new GT body in florescent yellow and orange for that reason as with the stock blue Limitless body I had issues making sure it was turned around and pointing the right direction. A lot of speed runners will stand on a ladder to help see also, I personally don't but if you have sight issues it's something to consider. Here is my body I've yet to run it but I think will be a lot better and help for seeing it at the long distances for sure. Again speed running is not for everyone and all these things are very important to consider especially for speeds in excess of 130mph. Up to 100mph is a lot different and can be done with less distance, darker color car, less range radio etc but when pushing the higher speeds(130+) what I mentioned above is an absolute must. View attachment 141726View attachment 141727

I see. Two antennas? Never heard of that before, but I don't dig around in radios that much. The lights are more helpful when the car is closer to you, unless you install floodlights or like airplane lights to the top of your car , but those huge lights paired with the batteries for them would weight a ton!

That body color is a bit garish...but for visability! For lower speed runs, especially at dawn or dusk, color coded light might helps, I'm thinking white front lights, and red rear lights.

 

[ahr43]

Schwinn bicycle lights set up on the rear rack of my Rustler when it was pace truck for my grass track oval series. White to the front; red to the rear. Not all that visible in the day. Fast flash setting was more visible than constant on. Ran a couple of night events and, of course, visibility of the lights improved. But at a distance, dunno. Suspect not so much so. For what its worth, anyway. Think the set was ~$9.00 off the rack at WalMart. Cheers. 'AC'

 

[Edough13]

Yeah, those are reffered to as "blinkies" in the MTB world, because, well, they can blink on the two second modes! They are super cheap, at like less than $3 for one, and they get even cheaper when bought in bulk! The use two coin-cell batteries, but don't expect too much out of the two coin cells and the two LEDs, they are more like safety lights, they will not light up your path at all! The battery life is impressive, I've gotten over like 8 months with casual riding. Some of them (like the ones we bought) even include spare coin cells, which is nice, as those coin cells can be $$! I'm not sure if you can see a Blinky from that distance though.

The FLysky GT5 is another good option, it's under $80, but has a screen with plenty of adjustability, and it's lightweight. As you may know, it also has an attenna in the front that can be folded up for even more range. It's one of the best radios IMO in the ~$80 range. IIRC, Redcat Racing has a rebranded GT5, it's the same thing, but about $15-$20 cheaper!

I see. Two antennas? Never heard of that before, but I don't dig around in radios that much. The lights are more helpful when the car is closer to you, unless you install floodlights or like airplane lights to the top of your car , but those huge lights paired with the batteries for them would weight a ton!

That body color is a bit garish...but for visability! For lower speed runs, especially at dawn or dusk, color coded light might helps, I'm thinking white front lights, and red rear lights.

At distance lights are just not visible in the daylight unfortunately. Yes the GT5 is another option but will require adding a range booster to get enough range. So that's more cost and also knowing how to install it and the time to install etc. For the price there's nothing better than the RC6GS V2 and also why so many speed runners use it even some of the OG's and top guys like Phil Jolley etc.

 

[Jerold]

For the radio. I have a FlySky GT5 and it's good, very good for a crawler, but the range tested only a little better than the Traxxas.

The Futaba had good range and is super nice but $700 is a little steep. Does anyone know if they 4PM gets similar range? I've seen it boosted to 1,800 feet (~550m).

I'm not above modding the radio but if it's good out of the box then why bother.

 

[The_RC_Dude]

At distance lights are just not visible in the daylight unfortunately. Yes the GT5 is another option but will require adding a range booster to get enough range. So that's more cost and also knowing how to install it and the time to install etc. For the price there's nothing better than the RC6GS V2 and also why so many speed runners use it even some of the OG's and top guys like Phil Jolley etc.

I see (no pun intended!). I've seen the RC6GS V2 on Amazon before. I'm somewhat surprised that you speed run guys don't use super expensive race radios, or stuff like the Flysky Noble.

 

[Jerold]

Quick update: I went to Norcal Hobbies (Support your local hobby store!) this afternoon. Picked up the Limitless, XLX2 ESC, servo and some QS8 connectors. I'm waiting on the 1717 and the CastleLink stuff to come in.

It's getting put together soon.

 

[Edough13]

Quick update: I went to Norcal Hobbies (Support your local hobby store!) this afternoon. Picked up the Limitless, XLX2 ESC, servo and some QS8 connectors. I'm waiting on the 1717 and the CastleLink stuff to come in.

It's getting put together soon.

Sweet man that's definitely an awesome setup! I'd suggest after a while and you get comfortable running grab some GP5 diffs as they will add 20-30mph

 

[The_RC_Dude]

Sweet man that's definitely an awesome setup! I'd suggest after a while and you get comfortable running grab some GP5 diffs as they will add 20-30mph

Sorry to interrupt, but just a diff swap will give you 20-30mph?! That's crazy...at least for us bashers! Imagine if we could do that to our rigs...are those diffs ball diffs (ok, actually don't really know what I'm talking about ), or what?

Quick update: I went to Norcal Hobbies (Support your local hobby store!) this afternoon. Picked up the Limitless, XLX2 ESC, servo and some QS8 connectors. I'm waiting on the 1717 and the CastleLink stuff to come in.

It's getting put together soon.

Sweet, I'm sure your LHS loves their new customer Careful with all that extra speed buddy! Don't you also need a RX/TX and some LiPos? I've heard the Limitless on 6s with stock Infraction electronics or something can hit nearly 100mph! Now that I've checked the Arrma website, $400 isn't too bad for a major speed run roller! Consider the Traxxas XO-1, I think that's just shy of $1k, yes, it's RTR, and claims 100mph stock, but are those electrics worth $600? I don't think so IMO but I'm no speed runner....

 

[Jerold]

Sweet, I'm sure your LHS loves their new customer Careful with all that extra speed buddy! Don't you also need a RX/TX and some LiPos? I've heard the Limitless on 6s with stock Infraction electronics or something can hit nearly 100mph! Now that I've checked the Arrma website, $400 isn't too bad for a major speed run roller! Consider the Traxxas XO-1, I think that's just shy of $1k, yes, it's RTR, and claims 100mph stock, but are those electrics worth $600? I don't think so IMO but I'm no speed runner....

I've been in there many times and purchased a few RCs and upgrades. They don't have everything, but I try to keep them in business when I can. They also have better point system (value) than Amain too.

I'm figuring out my LiPos with Edough on a PM. Nothing secret, just did not bore everyone to death with my drivel.

Caution LiPo drivel below:
I was following Raz Shifran's 150 MPH build. In that build the cut the battery tray to place the XLX2 and use a gensacearespammers Basher battery (157mm long) and it just barely fit. My first choice was to go with the CNHL but they are 170 mm long, so I've got a spacing problem. I could go gensacearespammers but the CHNL seems be a better choice by all discussions.

It sounds (correct me if I'm wrong) but the key to the battery is the continuous discharge rate (C rating). A lot of batteries claim X C rating but they do not state if it's continuous or burst. The gensacearespammers has a "Discharge Rate: 120C". However, it's not stated as continuous or burst. The CNHL batteries clearly sates "Discharge Rate: 90C Continual / 180C Burst". In this case I'm guessing the gensacearespammers is a burst rate and the continuous is more like 60-70C. Which is respectable but will cause more voltage droop under long loads. Less volts means less speed.

Caution Gear Drivel Below
For the gears there are a ton of gearing calculators out there. I've been using this one, they are all pretty much the same
https://www.radiocontrolinfo.com/information/rc-calculators/rc-car-calculator/
I've even used Excel too. It's just mult/div math. If you want to play with the numbers you can plug in your gears and see where your at. This is just theoretical though, but should give you an idea of the changes you want to make.

If you want to see a Mojave do 100 (or close) check out Innovation RC.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsJjXrrnKSuTrih97FOQjwg/featured

Again not an expert by any means, but it seems like it seems to be balance of RPM vs torque. You need the torque to spin the gears and you need the RPM you don't get the speed. But all that's on paper, once you starting going even a little fast weird stuff happens. Like my Slash is part plane for anything over 45 mph. Even stiffened, lowered with a body swap it still flips over pretty easily.

Which is the problem with the XO-1. Traxxas make great (some of the best) cars, but I've seen to many XO-1's take flight at 100 mph or even less. I just got the idea that it should be more grounded for $1000. But then again it's RTR with no drama, like I'm sorting out now, it's also Traxxas tough!
About the radio.
I ordered the Radiolink RC6GS V2. It seems to be the standard. What I'm curious about is a different receiver. The have some that should work with that radio and have a range of 1.25 miles (line of sight). Of course that's 2.5 miles as the drone flies and I would expect it to be much less on the surface.
https://www.radiolink.com/r8fm

They seem to lack the gyro though, which might be important, I dunno? Figured I would get the thing running first then buy one to try it out. If nothing else I can put it my Traxxas TRX-4 which doesn't really need a gyro.

Also the receiver/radio support telemetry of the battery voltage, but it's limited from 2S to 6S. However, I'm pretty sure I can use a simple resistor divider from the 8S to scale the voltage and set the alarm as a scaled threshold. If I divide it by 2 and call it a 4S (really 8S) it should just show 1/2 the actual voltage at the radio. I'm trying to think of a reason that it won't work?

 

[The_RC_Dude]

I've been in there many times and purchased a few RCs and upgrades. They don't have everything, but I try to keep them in business when I can. They also have better point system (value) than Amain too.

I'm figuring out my LiPos with Edough on a PM. Nothing secret, just did not bore everyone to death with my drivel.

Caution LiPo drivel below:
I was following Raz Shifran's 150 MPH build. In that build the cut the battery tray to place the XLX2 and use a gensacearespammers Basher battery (157mm long) and it just barely fit. My first choice was to go with the CNHL but they are 170 mm long, so I've got a spacing problem. I could go gensacearespammers but the CHNL seems be a better choice by all discussions.

It sounds (correct me if I'm wrong) but the key to the battery is the continuous discharge rate (C rating). A lot of batteries claim X C rating but they do not state if it's continuous or burst. The gensacearespammers has a "Discharge Rate: 120C". However, it's not stated as continuous or burst. The CNHL batteries clearly sates "Discharge Rate: 90C Continual / 180C Burst". In this case I'm guessing the gensacearespammers is a burst rate and the continuous is more like 60-70C. Which is respectable but will cause more voltage droop under long loads. Less volts means less speed.

Caution Gear Drivel Below
For the gears there are a ton of gearing calculators out there. I've been using this one, they are all pretty much the same
https://www.radiocontrolinfo.com/information/rc-calculators/rc-car-calculator/
I've even used Excel too. It's just mult/div math. If you want to play with the numbers you can plug in your gears and see where your at. This is just theoretical though, but should give you an idea of the changes you want to make.

If you want to see a Mojave do 100 (or close) check out Innovation RC.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsJjXrrnKSuTrih97FOQjwg/featured

Again not an expert by any means, but it seems like it seems to be balance of RPM vs torque. You need the torque to spin the gears and you need the RPM you don't get the speed. But all that's on paper, once you starting going even a little fast weird stuff happens. Like my Slash is part plane for anything over 45 mph. Even stiffened, lowered with a body swap it still flips over pretty easily.

Which is the problem with the XO-1. Traxxas make great (some of the best) cars, but I've seen to many XO-1's take flight at 100 mph or even less. I just got the idea that it should be more grounded for $1000. But then again it's RTR with no drama, like I'm sorting out now, it's also Traxxas tough!
About the radio.
I ordered the Radiolink RC6GS V2. It seems to be the standard. What I'm curious about is a different receiver. The have some that should work with that radio and have a range of 1.25 miles (line of sight). Of course that's 2.5 miles as the drone flies and I would expect it to be much less on the surface.
https://www.radiolink.com/r8fm

They seem to lack the gyro though, which might be important, I dunno? Figured I would get the thing running first then buy one to try it out. If nothing else I can put it my Traxxas TRX-4 which doesn't really need a gyro.

Also the receiver/radio support telemetry of the battery voltage, but it's limited from 2S to 6S. However, I'm pretty sure I can use a simple resistor divider from the 8S to scale the voltage and set the alarm as a scaled threshold. If I divide it by 2 and call it a 4S (really 8S) it should just show 1/2 the actual voltage at the radio. I'm trying to think of a reason that it won't work?

Hmm, seems like you guys are cooking up some spicy secrets in that PM...JK

You may have to dig around on the Internet to find whether that 120c from the gensacearespammers is cont or brust. You could try emailing them about that too. Is there anyway to elongate or extend the battery tray to fit those CNHLs? If worst comes to worst, just buy a slightly lower mAh version CNHL pack, so if the one that's too long is, say, 7600mAh, get a 7000mAh one. Hopefully that'll make it a little shorter.

A Mojave doing nearly 100mph?! I gotta see this...

I'm sure aero has a lot to do with the stability and grip, and I've heard that the wing you use is also very important. Some people on YT say that once you really get going, it's important to have the torque to push through all that air and keep going. Have you seen Kevin Talbot's project 203mph RC car? He's aiming to beat the current world record for the fastest RC, which is currently 203mph. He's using a Limitless as the base. He's also using two BIG TP motors to power it, one for each axle. The ESCs he's using are over $1 each, and can handle 12s each, I think. So he can run up to 24s in that thing, yes, stupid power. He hasn't gotten the chance to really let 'er rip, as the weather hasn't been great, and they're trying to find a long, smooth runway.

I'm thinking that a gyro could do more harm than good, as small corrections at high speed can spell disaster, as you don't want it twitching about. You can turn the gyro down though on most models. If you ran an 8s pack with a resistor, I'm thinking you might get more consistent performance through the pack, as a 6s' voltage will drop down normally, but an resisted 8s will give you "6s" voltage for longer, since the 8s has more power. So basically the 8s might give you less "voltage drop" through the mAh of the pack. That's all theoretical, and as I said before, I'm no speedrunner!

 

[Jerold]

Yeah, spicy is one word for it. Or it could be I don't want the feds knocking on my door. . . again.
-- Just in case the feds are reading this (like I need ask), it was a JOKE.

Edough set me up with a center mount that should allow me to install everything without cutting and rearranging too much. It will work fine for the stock body. Eventually I will probably rebody it to a wider body and extend the sides, which will leave me plenty of room for more "stuff".

I really enjoy Kevin's videos. He is the true torture tester. If it survives his skatepark bash it's good stuff. Not saying I can do any better than Kevin but I saw a few things that diverged from other builds (Raz Shifrin) that are hitting 190mph+. I saw that Kevin even commented on Raz's speed school series. Hopefully he dials it in.

One of the issue was definetly the surface, it was a tad bit gritty to say the least. Kevin might have a great setup but the surface killed it. On one of his runs the body turned inside out too, and I was thinking a bit of "racers tape" would fix that, and then I see Raz doing that. One of the reason's I'm not expecting too much speed on the streets of San Jose, our roads suck and there is a lot of traffic.

It's all a very expensive learning curve so the more I learn from others, Raz, Kevin and especially Edough! the quick I can move up the curve.

 

[Edough13]

Yes going from 13/43 diff gears to 15/42 is a big jump and gave me 20mph. Also if you want to see a Mojave do 131mph check out a buddy of mine on his channel here. Believe this is the fastest Mojave in the world but not 100%.

 

[The_RC_Dude]

Yeah, spicy is one word for it. Or it could be I don't want the feds knocking on my door. . . again.
-- Just in case the feds are reading this (like I need ask), it was a JOKE.

Edough set me up with a center mount that should allow me to install everything without cutting and rearranging too much. It will work fine for the stock body. Eventually I will probably rebody it to a wider body and extend the sides, which will leave me plenty of room for more "stuff".

I really enjoy Kevin's videos. He is the true torture tester. If it survives his skatepark bash it's good stuff. Not saying I can do any better than Kevin but I saw a few things that diverged from other builds (Raz Shifrin) that are hitting 190mph+. I saw that Kevin even commented on Raz's speed school series. Hopefully he dials it in.

One of the issue was definetly the surface, it was a tad bit gritty to say the least. Kevin might have a great setup but the surface killed it. On one of his runs the body turned inside out too, and I was thinking a bit of "racers tape" would fix that, and then I see Raz doing that. One of the reason's I'm not expecting too much speed on the streets of San Jose, our roads suck and there is a lot of traffic.

It's all a very expensive learning curve so the more I learn from others, Raz, Kevin and especially Edough! the quick I can move up the curve.

"Or it could be I don't want the feds knocking on my door. . . again."
A moment later: FBI, OPEN UP! (Wait, the FBI doesn't use laughter emojis...)
Better safe than sorry...

Yep, Kev is what they call a "durability tester", he tests them hard, so you can see what breaks, what are the weak points, how fast it really goes, upgrades, and the actual performance of the car! I love his videos too, I've been watching for over 2 years now. Remember that time about maybe 2 months ago when he sent his orange Felony to the MOON at the huge UK skatepark, and it got stuck in the tree?

I agree, as I said, he hasn't found an ideal surface yet, once he thought he did, only to show up and find that like over a quarter of it was like gravel, and half of the original road was under construction, or there was a film crew or something. The body turned inside out once? I don't recall that, but I watched those videos when they came out months ago, so I'll take your word for it! There's gotta be some long strip or parking lot somewhere that you can use, or maybe if you're lucky, you'll find a low traffic runway or something. No matter what you do, don't tempted to run on a highway, bad idea! I know your RC could easily top the 60mph the cars are going at, but a 2+ ton car vs. a maybe 20 pound RC...

 

[Jerold]

@Edough13

Two things.
I remember something about installing a chunk of nitro tubing in the drive shafts as a bumper. But I don't recall if it's the center drive shafts or the axles?

The center drive shafts are pretty sloppy and I can see why they would be an issue. - Suggestions? I think you issues with Scorched or some other brand?

There was a third thing but I'm loosing my mind, let me know if you find it.

 

[Edough13]

@Edough13

Two things.
I remember something about installing a chunk of nitro tubing in the drive shafts as a bumper. But I don't recall if it's the center drive shafts or the axles?

The center drive shafts are pretty sloppy and I can see why they would be an issue. - Suggestions? I think you issues with Scorched or some other brand?

There was a third thing but I'm loosing my mind, let me know if you find it.

So yes I'd put a small piece in the center driveshaft cups but make sure there is still a tiny amount of play and they are not tight. Also I'd suggest either going to CVD's in the rear axles or using some tubing there also for the vibration. Again make sure there is a tiny bit of play as when they are tight it puts a lot of stress on the shafts and cups. Also I'd suggest for the center picking up a Pinocchio spool that uses 2 short front length shafts as that helps tremendously and fixed my issue I had causing a desync due to the high vibrations. I've got a buddy that makes Pinocchio spools and are ran by guys such as Phil Jolley and tested to i believe 158mph so far without issue so send me a PM and I'll get you his info if you are interested.