basher going racing journey....

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Which .28, have you seen the ERCM 221T.....maybe it's what your looking for, you might not be able to race with it though...
 
i would stick with the stock tuned pipe, and again if you build a new race rig, buy the new pipe to match your motor you buy.
 
Ok sweet. Yeah i want to put more time running this kit then putting money.
When i get a real kit then it on!
Got the wheels in today thanks they look great.
 
If your track requires wicked nasty bottom end (for jumps in to and out of corners), go with a Werks 2013. If you are looking to get on the pipe at high rpm, try the 2058.

5-5-3 is a good strating point. Hard to go wrong with that. Get consistent with it, even if it is consistently pushing or losing rear traction or whatever. Then you'll know what you need to change. As for damping, it once again depends on your track. Is it hard-pack? How many bumps, how long is the straighaway. Every vehicle is different as well. I have some I keep pretty stiff because they are gliders....while some just roll right and soak it up at high speeds.

If you are planning on upgrading to a new vehicle, I agree not to throw much money into it other than different tires. Just focus on learning how to set it up base on your driving style
 
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If you are planning on upgrading to a new vehicle, I agree not to throw much money into it other than different tires. Just focus on learning how to set it up base on your driving style

Yeah thats what i want to do for now is getting to know track rules do's and don'ts.
Getting to know my cornering abilitys as well.

I may do an E-buggy just to see how that is as well.
 
If you are planning on upgrading to a new vehicle,
Getting to know my cornering abilitys as well.
One thing that might help is practice both on and off power steering. There is no right or wrong way...just what you prefer. This will go a long way in determining your diff setup. Setting up your vechicle to properly turn on a track can be difficult. As an example, my Mugen is loosing rear traction. I first raised my rear upper-link (no difference). Then I made them longer...minor improvement. Then I reduced the anti-squat and increased the toe (moderate improvement). Next I'll try softer springs, then reduce the camber, then decrease the rear diff oil, then try rear shock pistons with more holes, etc. etc.

My point is to just keep making (singular) changes until you get it exactly how you want it to drive. Prior to that....get very familiar with the stock setup...so that you'll be able to feel each change. Most changes come at a cost, however...so it is a continium. This is why it's important to do them one at a time.
 
Well i think i may have changed too much then. Since last run (Sunday) I've cchanged the servos to hiteh, 30w shock oil, 7k front diff, 5k center, 3k rear and lowered it a bit.
Ill see how that gose this sunday and go from there.

Thanks for your help and advice.
 
CAM00090_zps54c46fb5.jpg
I hope this stock tune pipe wont burn off my pull start again

---------- Post added at 11:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:21 PM ----------

New tank. The old jammen pipe melted the old one
CAM00089_zps2191b256.jpg
 
It really sucked today.
I felt like i lost alot of steering. And this rotor start really didn't work out with me. More of a pain then improvement. Will stick to my pull start.
None of the tires i brought out was good for the condition the track was in.


I pick up a slash 4x4 today and will try that this coming Sunday.

Welp back to 5k in front and see what that dose too.
 
Nothing in the world wrong with a pull-start. I personally believe it is the fastest starting mechanism. The only downside is the added weight.

What sort of surface is your track, and what tires have your tried. Our track is hard-packed. We run mostly Impacts and City Blocks (soft). I tried Tazers but did not like them. I just got a set of Squared Armor that a lot of guys at our track run and will try those out this week.
 
I started with the proline dirty harry's and what the track became dry and hard i put on the ibeans on. But after seeing another post today i realized its thr hitec servo that it was just too slow.
 
Whats your ride height on your buggy front and rear?
 
I actually lowered it befor sunday. I would have to take a pic and post it when i get off work today.
The axle was like this \ and it chipped a cup. So now it has a 1.5 mm clearance from the rim of the cup to the dogbone
 
I should be able to take pics of the ride tonight. I've been chopping up some of my rigs and parting them out to build funds lol. With Christmas coming i can't spend money on rc.
 
CAM00118_zps510619ff.jpg


---------- Post added at 8:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 8:32 AM ----------

Oops wrong one lol.

---------- Post added at 8:35 AM ---------- Previous post was at 8:33 AM ----------

CAM00120_zpsa5383063.jpg
 
Is there an issue in this picture we should be looking for? I can't really make it out.
 
Oh thats just a pic of how low it is. Tmaxxfreek asked how low it was.
May have something to do with the lack of steering
 
What is the stock ride height? What ride height are you trying to achieve? Most 1/8 buggies are 26-30mm and you really don't want a differnece more than 2mm between front and rear. Also tires obviously make a difference and when measuring do so with full tank, body on, etc.

Perhaps find out what stock is and then go from there. Ride height does affect steering, but its main purpose is stability (lower COG more stable). General rule of thumb is if your track is smooth you can go lower. However, as with everything there is a trade-off.

Here is something that might help in general with your setup. Not to beat dead horse, but read the second paragraph in 2.2 ;-) I hope this helps.

http://jq-products.com/the-news/43-the-testing/160-the-guide
 
Hey man thanks a million. Any advice i can get is much appreciated.
I'm finding myself getting really hooked on racing with full force. Theres alot of great people at the track and man we have a blast. Racing is getting big at this new track and real races start soon. There also making a 5th scale track too
 
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