basher going racing journey....

[Nitro Nerd]

I'm glad to hear that. The approach I take is durability first. It's a war of attrition, and does not matter how good the other drivers are, if they don't finish they don't win. Then it's a matter of getting the vehicle to do what you want it to do.

Here's a tip for checking ride height. Know the height you want (say 28mm). Get a piece of straw or something and cut it to that length. Drop buggy from 6-12 inches on to flat surface and use needle nose pliers to place straw where you would measure (kick-up in front and under toe-block in rear). From there you adjust shock collars up or down until you get it.

What is the steering issue? Are you under-steering?

 

[jose.28]

I felt it to low when i went out last. Ima check all tonight and see what happens.

 

[jose.28]

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Didn't have time all week to mess with the ofna. So i charged the lipos and here comes the ultimate!

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And its awesome that my basher buddy are joining the racing game!

 

[jose.28]

Sway bar settings. I'm messing around with the sway bar and getting to know what it does.
Who knew that lil bar made a difference. I alway just thought it looked cool. Lol

 

[tmaxxfreek]

i usually run 25/27 ride hight on my buggy, but that's for my track, your doing the right thing by testing and tuning, the ride height on someone else's buggy that runs well on your track, may not run well on yours, your driving style will determine what height works best for you. Keep testing and tuning, nothing feels better than making changes and getting on the track and gaining a 1/2 second on your lap times.

 

[jose.28]

Question: I've been seeing guys at the track spraying armoral on there kits and wheels.
And i want to know why?

 

[jose.28]

 

[ThatGuy]

Question: I've been seeing guys at the track spraying armoral on there kits and wheels.
And i want to know why?

My understanding is that Armor All, Pledge furniture polish etc. is used to keep dirt/dust off and to make cleanup a lot easier. They need to get the cars clean really quick to check for damage or loose screws between racing heats.

 

[jose.28]

Humm. I may look in to this. I normally have to stop every 15 min to unload 20lbs of glay.

 

[tmaxxfreek]

i usually use WD-40, i bow off all the heavy dirt, then take a stiff brush and brush whats left, then spray wd40 n a cheap brush and rub the excess off on a towel and brush it on my car, once i get it covered blow it back off with the air hose, make the car look great between heats and make it easier to clean after the race.

 

[jose.28]

WD-40 sounds alot better as you lube some parts at the same time lol. I will actually try this this sunday and see what the difference is. Thanks for the input guys.

 

[jose.28]

Well the buggy will be down untill after Christmas. So i will be using the slash for now.
I did the LCG chassis on it last night and played with the gears. I also filled the a center diff with diff oil and installed it as well. I've notice that it was way to stiff last time i took it to the track so i loosend the shocks a bit. Keep on practicing !

 

[jose.28]

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Heres something that I've forget to post.
The track that i run on doesn't seem to be clay. Its an orange sand type.
Is this called clay?

 

[Nitro Nerd]

Sway bar settings. I'm messing around with the sway bar and getting to know what it does.
Who knew that lil bar made a difference. I alway just thought it looked cool. Lol

It sure does. I just threw a set on my Savage and it's helped a LOT. Additionally, you can "tune" your sway bar settings. General rules of thumb are: Thinner bar=less roll/thicker=more roll (obviously). Also, too thick in the front will cause understeer...two thick in the back will cause oversteer. You can play around with different mounting positions, etc,. I'm trying a thinner one on my Mugen rear now--will let you know the results.

Regarding cleaning agents...a lot of guys at our track use that KalGuard, I know some who use LiquidWrench. This help keep the dirt off. Be careful with some agents though and your bearings. Sometimes you can actually force dirt into your bearings. Example: next time you take out a bearing, feel it. Next spray some contact cleaner on it (with shields one). It will get gritty. Not sure what WD-40 would do...it's good stuff but can't stand the smell. ;-)

 

[jose.28]

Man the track was nasty to me today. I broke an a arm and a shock but another racer gave me a set of rpm arms and a shock so i was able to keep going. Pretty cool i think.
I did 2 packs of 2s and i was aboe to keep control but when i did 3s i was all over the place.
Needing a new servo badly so i will be shopping for a savox asfter Christmas.
Next sunday my buggy should be up and ready to go

 

[Nitro Nerd]

How did those RPM arms fit? They can be tight. They are real durable--I have three sets, but it took away a lot of the flex in one of my vehicles so I'm reverting back to stock.

 

[jose.28]

They fit just fine. Everyone uses rpm everything on there slashs there. I kinda think it would make the rig heavy so ill just rpm when needed.

 

[Alexander_0_1]

T-bone racing also makes skid plates for your slash: http://t-bone-racing.net/Brand-N-Z/Traxxas/Slash-4x4-c192/

 

[jose.28]

Got her all cleaned up and ready. I put this body back on because i like the way it fly's is that makes any since. I notice that the stock body collected air and mad me wheelie alot. So i will definitely be getting a vented body for this slash. No lie i see myself using the slash more then the nitro. Its just less time consuming and with me working 6 days all day works out better for me. :/

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[Nitro Nerd]

No lie i see myself using the slash more then the nitro. Its just less time consuming and with me working 6 days all day works out better for me.

Funny--as I am the exact opposite. I have ONE electric (Losi Mini 8ight) and that is the vehicle most difficult for me to keep running---mainly due to my extreme lack of knowledge with respect to electric rc. I've blown up three batteries (various reasons) and have a Lipo that's so obese I'm afraid to go near it. Ugh!