Axial Ryft Build

[WickedFog]

Got the Tekin servo finally, and did a test fit. The mounting holes on the servo are slightly inboard from the holes in the axle, but the holes are big enough on the servo they fit.

I am torn between using the Ryft servo saver, or mounting the aluminum horn that came with the servo. The aluminum horn is a bit too long though, so leaning towards the saver.

But man, what a purdy piece of machined artwork this is.

 

[The_RC_Dude]

Finally got the rest of the parts ordered for the Ryft kit, so it's time to start a build thread. Will hopefully be able to knock this one out this coming weekend. 1st up, the unboxing vid.

So far, we got the cage dyed and the shocks and links assembled. We started with Rit Tangerine dye for the front. The rear shows the original light grey color.
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Then the rear went into a vat of Rit Scarlet Red.
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A quick vid on dyeing the helmets...

To assemble the links I designed and printed a tool that would slide onto my 8mm hex driver bit so I could use the Milwaukee hex driver. It took every bit of 5 or 6 minutes maybe to assemble all the links.
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Then I 3d printed a shock stand to fill the shocks after assembly.
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Then the long wait for funds to accumulate for the Tekin electronics. I just ordered the Tekin RX4 ESC, Tekin ROC412 HD 2300Kv sensored motor, and the Tekin T440 HV High Torque servo. Also grabbed the Tekin 3.0 Bluetooth programmer and a servo horn set for the 2-speed shift servo. The servo chosen for the shifting duty is a Hitec HS-70MG Ultra Torque Micro servo. I hope this fits

We got started on the diffs and axles. This is a long video. There is really a lot to this kit. So far everything is fitting pretty nice, except one of the shafts in the diff had a defect in the finish, preventing the spider gear from going on. One diff got a spool, so there were extras anyway.

These axles look more like 1/10 scale semi axles Shown next to a 1/10 scale 1.9 wheel. So far, fit snd finish is excellent besides the one little defect with the shaft.
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Episode 2 of the build series is up and we got the links and transmission done, minus the shift servo. I had to 3d print an adaptor. More to come on that little dilemma.

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More coming soon!

I'm a little late to the thread, but very cool, I've always like the look of the Ryft, it's an interesting car! I can't afford one though Somehow I never thought about how you need to screw together the whole cage, did it get tedious or boring? Neat shock stand, I use carboard boxes with holes punched in them! What are those orange rig things on the bottom of the shock shafts in the picture of them in the shock holder?

 

[WickedFog]

I'm a little late to the thread, but very cool, I've always like the look of the Ryft, it's an interesting car! I can't afford one though Somehow I never thought about how you need to screw together the whole cage, did it get tedious or boring? Neat shock stand, I use carboard boxes with holes punched in them! What are those orange rig things on the bottom of the shock shafts in the picture of them in the shock holder?

The orange bumpers are silicone shock limiters, to prevent the shock from slamming on full compression. They are really soft and squishy.

The cage goes together like a dream. We only partially assembled it, leaving the screws loose, to do the fade with the dye.

So far, the entire build has not only been interesting, but a lot of fun. It's a great kit. I grabbed this one at Christmas for $120 off at $280. It feels like a steal for what you get.

The gears are the stoutest of any RC I have ever seen. Very well machined too. The links are nice. The only thing that worries me is the small diameter of the shock shafts. There may be Pro-Line shocks planned for a future upgrade.

 

[slowngreen]

What radio are you using? I'd go with the aluminum horn personally IF you have epa's on the steering channel.

 

[WickedFog]

The Flysky GT3. It has EPA on it. The tires are soft enough to absorb any hard hits, so the aluminum horn would be fine with this servo. But it may look funny on there being so long. Will go do a test fit with it and see.

One thing I'd like to find is a nice set of black beadlocks that have an inner rear diameter big enough to clear the C-hubs and stuff. The ones I bought for it don't unfortunately I am guessing. But waiting on my son to return to finish the build to know for sure.

 

[Tunedfrog]

I admire the fact that you always wait on Breydon. That's awesome bro, you are a great dad.

 

[WickedFog]

Well thank you. It kills me to do so. But I can't build it without my lil buddy. He brings a lot of inspiration when he comes too, when he isn't wanting to play video games that is

 

[The_RC_Dude]

The orange bumpers are silicone shock limiters, to prevent the shock from slamming on full compression. They are really soft and squishy.

The cage goes together like a dream. We only partially assembled it, leaving the screws loose, to do the fade with the dye.

So far, the entire build has not only been interesting, but a lot of fun. It's a great kit. I grabbed this one at Christmas for $120 off at $280. It feels like a steal for what you get.

The gears are the stoutest of any RC I have ever seen. Very well mach8ned too. The links are nice. The only thing that worries me is the small diameter of the shock shafts. There may be Pro-Line shocks planned for a future upgrade.

Oh, that's cool! So it won't violently bottom out on obstacles and such? I've seen people use fuel tubing or something on the shock shafts to prevent chassis slap upon bottoming out, but I feel like tubing could damage your shocks, and all that force would be going into the tubing, so it could break. So those do a similar thing, but basically add more stiffness in the last 1/4-1/8 of shock travel? Too bad they don't make them for my cars (actually I wouldn't need them that much)!

Oh, surprise surprise! Did you use an electric screw driver to get the thread started and screw the screws in most of the way (that'd save your wrists, but I'm sure you'd be careful with no messing up the screw thread)?

That's not a bad price for that kit, does it come with tires? That $120 you saved should cover the radio gear and servo (but you probably bound it to one of your existing radios), and maybe even the motor or ESC if you're using more budget electronics (which you probably aren't )! The Ryft RTR is $530, so if you were to buy the kit and all the electronics that come in the RTR, you'd be at the cost of the RTR or higher, interesting, but for people like you, that means you can build it yourself, save the money for the stock electronics that you're gonna replace anyway!

And you've seen plenty of RCs in your time, I bet! Do Ryfts have issues with bent shock shafts? I haven't heard so yet, but i haven't researched the Ryft much.

Well thank you. It kills me to do so. But I can't build it without my lil buddy. He brings a lot of inspiration when he comes too, when he isn't wanting to play video games that is

That's cool, when I have a son (still a "few" more years till that ), I'd have a hard time waiting too! Yeah, often times others want to do other things rather than do what you're doing!

The Flysky GT3. It has EPA on it. The tires are soft enough to absorb any hard hits, so the aluminum horn would be fine with this servo. But it may look funny on there being so long. Will go do a test fit with it and see.

One thing I'd like to find is a nice set of black beadlocks that have an inner rear diameter big enough to clear the C-hubs and stuff. The ones I bought for it don't unfortunately I don't think. But waiting on my son to return to finish the build to know for sure.

There's always the Dremel to cut any funny-looking, long servo horns down, as well as black spray paint for wheels that fit but aren't black!

 

[WickedFog]

The electronics are all Tekin. Right at $500 for the motor, ESC, and servo.

Those silicone dampeners can be used on pretty much any shock. I haven't seen anyone mention bending a shock shaft on them, but they just look fragile.

We did use the Milwaukee hex driver on some things, but I really don't mind turning a hex wrench. If that's what's in my hand, I just roll with it.

The Tekin aluminum servo horn is way too purdy to take a dremel to it

 

[The_RC_Dude]

The electronics are all Tekin. Right at $500 for the motor, ESC, and servo.

Those silicone dampeners can be used on pretty much any shock. I haven't seen anyone mention bending a shock shaft on them, but they just look fragile.

We did use the Milwaukee hex driver on some things, but I really don't mind turning a hex wrench. If that's what's in my hand, I just roll with it.

The Tekin aluminum servo horn is way to purdy to take a dremel to it

No joke, I went when I saw the $500! I get that for these higher end electrics, you're paying a higher end price too, but that's almost the price of the RTR Ryft! They'd better be good!

But there's the shock shaft size difference, but then again, they are rubber, and rubber stretches. I'm more worried about them not fitting in the lower spring-rests. Also, since my cars are smaller scale rigs, those dampers would take up like 1/4 or 1/3rd of the travel Some things looks weak, but aren't!

I agree, but sometimes it can get tedious, but whatever you prefer, go with it, it's a hobby afterall!

Drop it a few times, bash the Ryft, a slipped hex driver...it won't be so pretty! Just joking!

 

[WickedFog]

The Tekin horn actually fits really good on there. The steering arm is a bit too close to the axle at the servo mount though, but a 3mm spacer will fix that.

 

[Tunedfrog]

What servo is that Kev? I have the T-440 in my Bomber.
My motor is the Pro 4 HD, and an old version of the RS esc I believe it is.
I would love to stake claim that it was my choice and built it myself but I can't. I traded a rifle for it.

 

[WickedFog]

Same. How do you like it?

 

[Tunedfrog]

I haven't drove the truck all that much but the servo is awesome. I want to take it out to the sand dunes and climb some rock faces with it.

The whole Tekin system is incredible honestly.

 

[WickedFog]

I haven't drove the truck all that much but the servo is awesome. I want to take it out to the sand dunes and climb some rock faces with it.

It has some awesome specs. I was going to grab the other hi torque one they sell, which is a bit faster servo, but a little less torque, but opted for this one since this truck has such massive tires to swing around.

 

[Tunedfrog]

Yeah, the rock racer tires are pretty big. I have the Proline Hyrax and they are pretty big also. The T-440 has no problems at all steering it.

 

[WickedFog]

Just found some info on the stock servo saver. It seems they crack which allows them to slip a tooth on the metal adapter. So we'll stick to the metal horn.

 

[WickedFog]

Got the shift servo all dialed in. Here are the parts I had to print. The pic with arrows shows where these parts are installed.

 

[Doom!]

Nice looks like it was a natural fit. Your making me want one!

 

[WickedFog]

It wouldn't have been so bad if they didn't make it so you have to use that weak Spectrum shift servo. This Hitec one is really strong for how small it is.
ESC is mounted

Thinking about grabbing some of these Vitavon panels.