Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!
My bad-I was taking the Tekno kit, and “other RTR 1/8 buggy” into consideration. The Nut drivers I mentioned include a 7mm driver.
Actually , I don’t know. It just says 12mm hex wheels. So that would take a 7mm driver?My bad-I was taking the Tekno kit, and “other RTR 1/8 buggy” into consideration. The Nut drivers I mentioned include a 7mm driver.
Wait-12mm nuts?? You sure they’re not 12mm HEXES, and M4 serrated wheel nuts that take a 7mm driver?
7 or 8mm.. Been a couple decades since I owned anything tenth scale.. A driver is all you want for that though-no 4way or “wrench” needed. Can’t take that much asss on em’, and you’ll destroy your wheels in the process anyhow. “Snug” serrated m4 nuts in the 5-7 ft/lbs area as measured by the ol’ forearm..
Awesome7 or 8mm.. Been a couple decades since I owned anything tenth scale.. A driver is all you want for that though-no 4way or “wrench” needed. Can’t take that much asss on em’, and you’ll destroy your wheels in the process anyhow. “Snug” serrated m4 nuts in the 5-7 ft/lbs area as measured by the ol’ forearm..
Not to get off topic (too late , I guess 
) but you said you haven’t owned anything 10th scale in a long time. Is that because you prefer 8th scale?
Hard to say. Some trucks have issues in chassis design so they snap. Shock work and big cusiony tires are what you should look into. Ofcourse if you can't land on the wheels that's a new issue. Speaking of landing, landing at an angle will help too as shown in the video below.
Welp, another RTR to added to the list of possible 1/8 buggies to make it to central PA. Caster Racing, HoBao, Arrma, Serpent, HPI, and Team Corally were all bookmarked in the past year. Even though I tend to shy away from instant gratification rides, the price for some RTRs is very luring for what you get. That Sworkz buggy, even though a pillow ball suspension design, jumps in front of the Caster Racing 1/8 buggy on wish list.I’d pass HARD on the Jato.. Absolutely guarantee 90% of its new owners to be heavily let down. Just my .02..
You will be ULTRA impressed with the Tekno buggy for your first 1/8 kit build for sure. As mentioned by @KnowAir above-You can get a ludicrously fast 6s basher buggy from Arrma for relatively decent pricing..
Sworkz makes an ULTRA high quality 1/8 off-road brushless RTR as well that shares a LOT with their PRO kit… In my personal opinion, as far as RTR quality, performance, and value go-this one can NOT be beat.. Like not even close to anything else..Their Fit and Finish is right up there with Xray, Mugen Seiki, and Tekno.. Without a doubt.. It truly amazes me that this is an RTR vehicle… And the price… Shiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiit..
View attachment 207248View attachment 207249View attachment 207250View attachment 207251View attachment 207252View attachment 207253
https://beachrc.com/sworkz-apollo-1-8-brushless-power-buggy-pro-rtr-w-prepainted-body-shell/
and shipping would obviously be free from BeachRC, and they get it out QUICK.. One of my absolute favorite online outfits to deal with hands down.
That Sworkz is at the top of my list as well
Team Associated used to produce a few kit versions of their 1/10 scale RCs years ago i.e., basic kit, sport kit, team kit, factory team kit. If the top RC manufacturers would make a basic entry level kit of their popular "racing breed" RCs, I'd be in a very happy place. Heck, RCs that are typically targeted as "bashers" should be offered in kit form. The only reason I don't have a Typhon is because it's only offered as an RTR... oh, and the rear hub carrier/axle/dog bone design. If an entry level Sworkz APOLLO 1/8 scale buggy kit was such a thing... it would definitely be bought and paid for years ago.That Sworkz is at the top of my list as well
I had these with my bag that had my slash in it lol so I have an extra set at least lol
Also , should I be Loctiting the M4 serrated wheel nuts on the MT10?7 or 8mm.. Been a couple decades since I owned anything tenth scale.. A driver is all you want for that though-no 4way or “wrench” needed. Can’t take that much asss on em’, and you’ll destroy your wheels in the process anyhow. “Snug” serrated m4 nuts in the 5-7 ft/lbs area as measured by the ol’ forearm..
Awesome
)
I would not. Personally. The Serrated gets the job done. Buy some extra m4 nuts to keep in your pit box absolutely, as things happen. I would absolutely not be in the habit of running threadlocker to keep my wheels on.. Causes nothing but problems in every case I’ve witnessed personally, and is not needed with serrated nuts. Also keep in mind-never use thread locker on NYLOC nuts. It literally EATS plastic, and does nothing what so ever to “lock” the fasteners together. It’s meant for metal. I’m sure there are folks that disagree, and that’s fine-I 1,000,000% stand by what I say lol..
Yes yes yes... loves tires and wheels and ice cream... we know.Without a doubt.
I raced tenth scale for years, and literally everything about 1/8 (LITERALLY) puts them in a class of their own. That being said-I absolutely do not mean simply, “bigger is better”.. I want nothing smaller, OR bigger… 1/8 buggy, and truggy is Goldilocks IMHO-not too small, not to big, but juuuuuuust right.. 1/10 is absolutely more delicate, 1/5 packs on so many pounds from being bigger, that durability actually SUFFERS. Not to mention they’re just plain comical to get any real performance parts for.. Wheels/Tires are the #1 tuning tool in every surface RC platform/class, and the offerings for anything aside from 1/10, and 1/8 off-road are flat out PATHETIC. (And we all know how Littlemotor loves his wheels & tires…
Those are better than some, but not what I’d personally recommend. When you get up into 1/8 stuff, you need MULTIPLE drivers a lot of the time. Nothing wrong with buying smart-but everything on that list I shared is there from 35yrs of doing this stuff, and it’s the first things I’d purchase (before a KIT even) if I decided to get out of RC, and come back to it after selling off all my stuff.. Also-the only tool I’ll own from Thunder Tiger (Team Associated/Factory Team) would be their body reamer, and to be perfectly honest-I’m not really impressed with it either, but it “does the job”..
And as for the need for “multiples”-MIP In fact offers a handle setup with interchangeable bits (basically speed bits, which you need ALSO), and I don’t have any use for it because I’ll need a 2mm and 2.5mm in action at the same time on a regular basis.. and OFTEN times-a 5.5, and 2mm, or 2.5mm.. If all you have are interchangeable bits, you’re S.O.L.. Believe me-that list has been accrued under years of scrutiny, testing, multiple key factors, and my own personal experience. Also that is what I’d refer to as my “bare bones” starter list.. The “minimum required” for the hobby.
Glad to be of assistance brothaman.. Yep-if I had chosen Pillowball vehicles to rock instead of Tekno/C-Hub, they would have FOR SURE been Sworkz, no contest. I do enjoy running pillowball stuff as well as C-Hub, and have the Associated nitro buggy for that, but I likely WILL end up with an Sworkz kit or two in the foreseeable future..
Nosir. Sworkz is available all over. They are ALSO available in FL.. Not exclusively however. You just will not find them at Amain, or Horizon is all. I SERIOUSLY limit my purchase from Amain anyhow, and do not deal with ANYTHING Horizon Hobby, or Tower related except for Proline Probond tire glue, and I’m not thrilled about that, but it is what it is.Yes yes yes... loves tires and wheels and ice cream... we know.
So since we're on Sworks, is that the brand with 1 parts supply in FL?
I'm asking more because I'm thinking about buying an Agama N110 which is similar, VRP (?) is sole parts disto in US.
Looking for opinion when going down that road.
Sworks has a really good rep.
Maybe thats where I got it confuddled... Its nice to know parts aren't far away if needed.Nosir. Sworkz is available all over. They are ALSO available in FL.. Not exclusively however. You just will not find them at Amain, or Horizon is all. I SERIOUSLY limit my purchase from Amain anyhow, and do not deal with ANYTHING Horizon Hobby, or Tower related except for Proline Probond tire glue, and I’m not thrilled about that, but it is what it is.
Likely the two best places to purchase an Sworkz VEHICLE from would be between RC1-Racing.com, and BeachRC.com.. Parts? Wherever, but I’d lean toward BeachRC, as they’re literally a few hours from me, and are my favorite online hobby shop to deal with HANDS DOWN..
You could not PAY ME to run Agama anything. Been there, done that, never again.and for a multitude of reasons that I won’t speak on because I don’t like to outright bash any manufacturer on an open forum, and that is EXACTLY where that one would end up..
Going by your list , which size hex and nut drivers should I be getting? 7mm for sure for the wheel nuts , that much I know.Without a doubt.
I raced tenth scale for years, and literally everything about 1/8 (LITERALLY) puts them in a class of their own. That being said-I absolutely do not mean simply, “bigger is better”.. I want nothing smaller, OR bigger… 1/8 buggy, and truggy is Goldilocks IMHO-not too small, not to big, but juuuuuuust right.. 1/10 is absolutely more delicate, 1/5 packs on so many pounds from being bigger, that durability actually SUFFERS. Not to mention they’re just plain comical to get any real performance parts for.. Wheels/Tires are the #1 tuning tool in every surface RC platform/class, and the offerings for anything aside from 1/10, and 1/8 off-road are flat out PATHETIC. (And we all know how Littlemotor loves his wheels & tires…
Those are better than some, but not what I’d personally recommend. When you get up into 1/8 stuff, you need MULTIPLE drivers a lot of the time. Nothing wrong with buying smart-but everything on that list I shared is there from 35yrs of doing this stuff, and it’s the first things I’d purchase (before a KIT even) if I decided to get out of RC, and come back to it after selling off all my stuff.. Also-the only tool I’ll own from Thunder Tiger (Team Associated/Factory Team) would be their body reamer, and to be perfectly honest-I’m not really impressed with it either, but it “does the job”..
And as for the need for “multiples”-MIP In fact offers a handle setup with interchangeable bits (basically speed bits, which you need ALSO), and I don’t have any use for it because I’ll need a 2mm and 2.5mm in action at the same time on a regular basis.. and OFTEN times-a 5.5, and 2mm, or 2.5mm.. If all you have are interchangeable bits, you’re S.O.L.. Believe me-that list has been accrued under years of scrutiny, testing, multiple key factors, and my own personal experience. Also that is what I’d refer to as my “bare bones” starter list.. The “minimum required” for the hobby.
Glad to be of assistance brothaman.. Yep-if I had chosen Pillowball vehicles to rock instead of Tekno/C-Hub, they would have FOR SURE been Sworkz, no contest. I do enjoy running pillowball stuff as well as C-Hub, and have the Associated nitro buggy for that, but I likely WILL end up with an Sworkz kit or two in the foreseeable future.. (ALSO, not “instead of”)
I would not. Personally. The Serrated gets the job done. Buy some extra m4 nuts to keep in your pit box absolutely, as things happen. I would absolutely not be in the habit of running threadlocker to keep my wheels on.. Causes nothing but problems in every case I’ve witnessed personally, and is not needed with serrated nuts. Also keep in mind-never use thread locker on NYLOC nuts. It literally EATS plastic, and does nothing what so ever to “lock” the fasteners together. It’s meant for metal. I’m sure there are folks that disagree, and that’s fine-I 1,000,000% stand by what I say lol..
Add a zero on endSo, just curious... how are you doing sticking to that $800 budget so far?
