• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

With an $800 budget , what would you get?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
And when I’m done , I just set to “storage”?
Storage Mode

The charger's STORAGE function will automatically charge/discharge cells to the predetermined storage voltage. When you are done with the battery for the day, yes, it's a good practice to put LiPo cells at storage voltage (LiPo cell storage voltage is normally 3.8v/cell on most chargers).

For me being in a hurry, if all the cells in my LiPo pack are within 3.7~3.9 volts after a run... close enough... they are within my storage voltage parameters.

When you are done with a LiPo battery for the day and you find the cells to be considerably greater than 3.8v/cell, you may find that it takes your charger longer than expected to get cells down to 3.8v when using STORAGE mode. Your Hota D6 Pro only has 10 watts discharging power internally. If I fall into a situation where I need to quit RCing for the evening; go inside house, I'll do whatever it takes to bring voltages down. The key to longer battery life is not to store LiPo batteries fully charged for long periods of time. For me, a long period of time means overnight.
 
Last edited:
The charger's STORAGE function will automatically charge/discharge cells to the predetermined storage voltage. When you are done with the battery for the day, yes, it's a good practice to put LiPo cells at storage voltage (LiPo cell storage voltage is normally 3.8v/cell on most chargers).
all my batteries are in storage right now except the one I got last night need to put that one in storage
 
The charger's STORAGE function will automatically charge/discharge cells to the predetermined storage voltage. When you are done with the battery for the day, yes, it's a good practice to put LiPo cells at storage voltage (LiPo cell storage voltage is normally 3.8v/cell on most chargers).
Ok and what rate (.1A etc) should I use for storage? I assume 6.2A since that’s what used to charge my 6200 mah Lipo.
 
yes that is fine to use
Great. Thanks. We had a good bash session today. Now it’s cleanup time.
IMG_7705.webp
 
Ok and what rate (.1A etc) should I use for storage? I assume 6.2A since that’s what used to charge my 6200 mah Lipo.
1C charge rate (6.2A for a 6200mAh battery) is fine.

FYI: You could set your charger's amperage to the maximum 15A while charging those 3S packs, but you would only see approximately 7.9A on the screen, because each channel's 100 watt limit. Now if you were to use the power distribution feature of the charger... that's a different story.
https://www.powerstream.com/Amps-Watts.htm#watts-amps
 
1C charge rate (6.2A for a 6200mAh battery) is fine.

FYI: You could set your charger's amperage to the maximum 15A while charging those 3S packs, but you would only see approximately 7.9A on the screen, because each channel's 100 watt limit. Now if you were to use the power distribution feature of the charger... that's a different story.
https://www.powerstream.com/Amps-Watts.htm#watts-amps
Damn , you guys know everything.!it’s gonna take me years to catch up. Thank for the info 👍
 
Congrats brother! 🍻

After the past few weeks of pushing my RCs hard, I've discovered I need/want another eBuggy to round out collection. Most likely in a RCCA mag from years past, but I've always remembered 1/8 scale buggies being referred to as "the tanks of the RC world", and used that phrase over, and over again in many forums. Situation, and having running environment/surface area being in cahoots, everyone's RC collection should have at least one 1/8 scale buggy in it. So many MT/MB/SCT/Speedrun projects have stemmed from 1/8 scale buggy chassis. Even though I've said I'm done buying RCs, I've been looking into my next RC that may or may not happen. So many late nights exploring the corners of www.

As you know, things in life change day to day. Funny thing is; after getting your new toy, you're already climbing into bed with thoughts to fuel REM... tossing and turning over what next toy to get.
I agree, 1/8 buggies are tanks, fast and nimble though, so not really tanks. LOL. Terrain limited due to smallish tires, but many "truggify" them by adding larger tires. For cheap, rtr, the Typhon 6s is pretty impressive. The drive train is way overbuilt, so not as light and nimble as a legit race buggy, but much cheaper. Honorable mention to the TC Spark 6s, which is nearly as durable as the Typhon, but costs even less, and is faster in stock rtr form. TC has the best rtr motor/esc combo I've ever ran. Radio/servo, meh.
I've been banging around a 2007 Xray for years, pricey no doubt, but it is truly a HQ buggy. If I were doing it over, EB48 for sure. I got a screaming deal on the Xray so it was a no brainer, but parts are pricey for it IMO.
 
Last edited:
Congrats brother! 🍻


I agree, 1/8 buggies are tanks, fast and nimble though, so not really tanks. LOL. Terrain limited due to smallish tires, but many "truggify" them by adding larger tires. For cheap, rtr, the Typhon 6s is pretty impressive. The drive train is way overbuilt, so not as light and nimble as a legit race buggy, but much cheaper. Honorable mention to the TC Spark 6s, which is nearly as durable as the Typhon, but costs even less, and is faster in stock rtr form. TC has the best rtr motor/esc combo I've ever ran. Radio/servo, meh.
I've been banging around a 2007 Xray for years, pricey no doubt, but it is truly a HQ buggy. If I were doing it over, EB48 for sure. I got a screaming deal on the Xray so it was a no brainer, but parts are pricey for it IMO.
I’m thrilled with my MT10 but I think I want a 1/8 scale buggy next. Do most 1/8 scale buggies come with a center dif?
 
I’m thrilled with my MT10 but I think I want a 1/8 scale buggy next. Do most 1/8 scale buggies come with a center dif?
I think most 4x4s larger than 1/10th scale have center diffs.
 
I’m thrilled with my MT10 but I think I want a 1/8 scale buggy next. Do most 1/8 scale buggies come with a center dif?
If it doesn’t come with a center diff, it’s not really an eighth scale buggy. 😉
 
Arrma Typhon does.
6s does, pretty sure the 3s Typhon has a slipper. Misleading to an extent because it is about the same size as a legit 1/8 buggy, even 17mm hex wheels, but that's where it ends. Everything else on the Typhon 3s is pure 1/10.
I would argue any 1/8 scale worth anything has a full metal drivetrain and aluminum chassis at least. Oh, and 3 diffs. :thumbs-up:
 
6s does, pretty sure the 3s Typhon has a slipper. Misleading to an extent because it is about the same size as a legit 1/8 buggy, even 17mm hex wheels, but that's where it ends. Everything else on the Typhon 3s is pure 1/10.
I would argue any 1/8 scale worth anything has a full metal drivetrain and aluminum chassis at least. Oh, and 3 diffs. :thumbs-up:
Yes- my bad- the 6s does
 
Wasn't trying to diss your statement, just wanted to clarify for anyone who didn't know about the differences. 🍻
Nah- it's cool dude! You're right tho! I didn't think about it as I typed! 😅 I will never own another slipper clutch RC. Not dissing them- just me. I put a Mojave 4s fluid diff & module in my 3s Senton & a 120a 3s/4s ESC.
 
Nah- it's cool dude! You're right tho! I didn't think about it as I typed! 😅 I will never own another slipper clutch RC. Not dissing them- just me. I put a Mojave 4s fluid diff & module in my 3s Senton & a 120a 3s/4s ESC.
What's the parts list to swap the Mojave diff to the 3s stuff? Pretty straight forward?

That 3s Typhon could really be a great entry level racing buggy with a center diff. Even with the slipper I love running mine at the track
 
What's the parts list to swap the Mojave diff to the 3s stuff? Pretty straight forward?

That 3s Typhon could really be a great entry level racing buggy with a center diff. Even with the slipper I love running mine at the track
Fluid diff & the Power module, aka the gearbox & the little screw in gearbox retainer. It's smaller than the 3s one. I'm supposedly gonna guess the 3s could be cut down. It's very straight forward. Goes right in. The 4s gearbox has two screws that hold it down to the chassis after you slide it in the dovetails. The holes are already there in the 3s, just countersink them on the opposite side & add 2 screws. It took me less than 1/2 hour for the whole swap. Driveshaft still works. Just move the bearing holder back a notch on the honeycomb part.
 
Back
Top