With an $800 budget , what would you get?

[PainKiller]

I don’t support Horizon/Tower for a multitude of reasons… it’s literally never NOT been some straight up bullshiit with EVERY transaction with them since the merge… And HERE in NC-they take absolutely foreverrrrrrrrrr to get me my stuff..

I deal with a very specific few vendors/sites, and then Amain only if everyone ELSE is out of something, or for tires. They’re tough to boycott when it comes to tires/wheels… I was a platinum member with them for YEARS, and I bet I don’t spend a TENTH of what I used to there any longer..

I stick to:

Fierce RC Solutions
Beach RC
RC1-Racing
Absolute Hobbyz
Woodland Hobbies
Bones Motorsports
NitroPro
DialedRC
JennysRC
LiquidRC
RCWaffle

Couldn’t be happier with pricing, availability, customer service, shipping, OR sales… And half of them don’t add sales tax… That’s a HUGE deal to me..

That list right there is gold! Thanks. I’ll be looking into all of them in the coming days.

 

[KnowAir]

Been doing it over 35yrs, and often find that REbuilds are just as fun, if not more so… and the money saved…. Shiiiiiiiiiiiit man… Because I’m gonna dump all kinds of aftermarket/more factory parts into any NEW kit too…

That was kinda my point. OP said he hadn't much knowledge of RC's I believe? As you stated, you were going to upgrade/customize already anyway, so makes sense to buy used in your case. I'm going from my own experience in that often times rebuilding a well worn rc adds up quickly and I find myself questioning the value of rebuilding vs buying new. I tend to run my stuff stock for the most part, so that is figured into my theory as well.
I built my Tekno's out for dirt cheap relatively speaking, by buying electronics from kit breakers, rtr bodies from kit breakers as well. All about saving the green stuff here, and I don't mean planet, LOL.

Crickets

I've seen the Rlaarlo brand popularity explode in the last year. They seem to be pretty well made. My concerns are, too small, parts availability. Last I heard Amazon, AliEx or direct are the only real sources for parts, true? I'm weary of any rc company that doesn't use distributers to get the parts out there for us to buy.

 

[9x19]

Ah , that helps clear things up. I was wondering why the Hoss wasn’t on the Traxxas website. The Stampede looks good and appears to be popular. It’s been around a while. I remember the old version way back when.


HPI Savage Flux , noted. Never heard of it but I bet my pal Google has.

Yeah the 2wd and 4wd versions of the Stampede are completely different... I bought the Hoss, my first plunge back into the hobby a few years ago. I chose it because it was the only one of the 3 (Rustler, Stampede, Hoss) 4x4 models that came with a center diff instead of a slipper. Now all of my Traxxas 4x4s have that setup. (Rustler-Hoss-Slash-Stash-Rally-Raptor R).

I still have my old 2wd Stampede, upgraded to brushless with the latest 272R transmission, but it sees more shelf time than run time.

 

[KnowAir]

I’ve been looking on Amain , RC Super Store and Hobby Town. Though I haven’t looked at shipping costs. I should probably do that soon.

Believe it or not, all 3 of those are owned by the same people. One and the same. Also known as Rapid Warehousing on Amazon..

Yeah the 2wd and 4wd versions of the Stampede are completely different... I bought the Hoss, my first plunge back into the hobby a few years ago. I chose it because it was the only one of the 3 (Rustler, Stampede, Hoss) 4x4 models that came with a center diff instead of a slipper. Now all of my Traxxas 4x4s have that setup. (Rustler-Hoss-Slash-Stash-Rally-Raptor R).

I still have my old 2wd Stampede, upgraded to brushless with the latest 272R transmission, but it sees more shelf time than run time.

View attachment 202817

Wow! A collector's item! Has it been used? My rigs look like that for however long it takes me to get a battery in, then it's all over.. LOL.
Fast Lane Machine makes some bitchin aluminum upgrades for the Traxxas 1/10 stuff! Ever see the LWB Bandit? Tasty!

 

[Littlemotor]

That was kinda my point. OP said he hadn't much knowledge of RC's I believe? As you stated, you were going to upgrade/customize already anyway, so makes sense to buy used in your case. I'm going from my own experience in that often times rebuilding a well worn rc adds up quickly and I find myself questioning the value of rebuilding vs buying new. I tend to run my stuff stock for the most part, so that is figured into my theory as well.
I built my Tekno's out for dirt cheap relatively speaking, by buying electronics from kit breakers, rtr bodies from kit breakers as well. All about saving the green stuff here, and I don't mean planet, LOL.


I've seen the Rlaarlo brand popularity explode in the last year. They seem to be pretty well made. My concerns are, too small, parts availability. Last I heard Amazon, AliEx or direct are the only real sources for parts, true? I'm weary of any rc company that doesn't use distributers to get the parts out there for us to buy.

We’ve talked enough that believe me-I know exactly what you’re saying, and agree with what you’re saying now as well.

And correct-I was gonna do a bunch of upgrades as well no matter if it was new or not.. and it was STILL more cost effective.. by a LOT actually, which is always the case for me or I wouldn’t do it lol..

However-that being said; I can (and have) simply toss a couple pieces of hardware at it, change some fluids, and a bearing or three, and tidy up the wiring (or lack there of), and still be MILES ahead of if I had bought an RTR grade vehicle… And remember-that RTR is gonna need upgrades right from the box as well…and still won’t be as durable..

I am aware of the natural progression (or at least used to be) of surface RC though, and am not going to just blindly shoot down any option that’s not a 1/8 kit grade *uggy… There are plenty of viable options to choose from, and have a great time.. Sometimes the path to GET TO the place is what makes it all the more fun..

Bottom line-this hobby has the potential for a super high drop out rate.. So balance between spending too much on ultra high quality shiit that lasts a long time (but you better have some mechanical ability/experience), or grab up some fairly cost effective Ready To Rock stuff, stay AWAY from all the ridiculous aluminum trinkets, useless square tire combo’s, and 10” of hub extenders, and just be prepared to fix some weak links as they arrive-as is the nature of the hobby-while you LEARN to RC…

There is a WEALTH of knowledge available to you on this forum. Do not be afraid to learn as much as you can, and not just by asking “what would you buy?”… Look at what others do, or have done. Go to build threads. Look for tech threads. Common parts failures. What’s cheap, what’s expensive… Far more is learned looking for that stuff than the constantly beaten path of “what’s the fastest, biggest, jumpingest, blah, blah, blah…” That typically always gets answers like what’s seen here… “run what I like!!!!”… Just sayin lol..

At the end of the day-it’s YOUR money, and YOUR time, so be careful/particular about letting ANY of us spend it for you..

 

[WickedFog]

Been doing it over 35yrs, and often find that REbuilds are just as fun, if not more so… and the money saved…. Shiiiiiiiiiiiit man… Because I’m gonna dump all kinds of aftermarket/more factory parts into any NEW kit too…

I gotta agree here. But some of my favorite builds have been the Vintage Kyosho's. But you are very correct here. While I've not built any newer race buggies, we have taken used parts, cleaned them up, and bought hopups to mix in and built some fun projects. Even if you find you have to fix a few unexpected problems, it's still a fun process reviving something. The research, the hunting for parts, the assembly, the paint, etc is still all part of the process. But you learn even more about your RC than you do building a new kit, where everything just works. Things like parts from other models that fit, aftermarket goodies, etc. Different ways to set the car up is a big one. Buggies, turned SCT trucks, turned street bashers, etc.

 

[KnowAir]

I gotta agree here. But some of my favorite builds have been the Vintage Kyosho's. But you are very correct here. While I've not built any newer race buggies, we have taken used parts, cleaned them up, and bought hopups to mix in and built some fun projects. Even if you find you have to fix a few unexpected problems, it's still a fun process reviving something. The research, the hunting for parts, the assembly, the paint, etc is still all part of the process. But you learn even more about your RC than you do building a new kit, where everything just works. Things like parts from other models that fit, aftermarket goodies, etc. Different ways to set the car up is a big one. Buggies, turned SCT trucks, turned street bashers, etc.

Oh yeah, mix n match! HPI titanium links w/ Xray rod ends in place of cheesy stock upper arms on a Kaiju, Traxxas rod ends on a 3s Arrma, Arrma 6s shocks for a Corally.. the possibilities are endless! DIY aluminum skid plates.. I love finding ways to keep the party going without spending whenever possible. Or as little as.

I'm pretty proud of my mutt Xray buggy. Bought second hand with a spent motor around 10 years ago, guy probably spent a mint on it in 2007. I "patched" it up with RC Monster MM, Hobby King Track Star motor, Redcat branded 80a esc, Arrrma battery tray and receiver box.. even an RTR Typhon body, which I spray painted white on the outside cuz my bro has a Typhon 6s, gets confusing having two of the exact same bodied buggies running around on the track! LOL. Thing rips! I love it, hasn't seen a diff rebuild since 2010!! Doesn't need it, ain't getting it till it does..

 

[332_RC]

I've seen the Rlaarlo brand popularity explode in the last year. They seem to be pretty well made. My concerns are, too small, parts availability. Last I heard Amazon, AliEx or direct are the only real sources for parts, true? I'm weary of any rc company that doesn't use distributers to get the parts out there for us to buy.

They are small. Architecture is really cool. I believe you're right on the parts.

 

[Lukedavis]

We’ve talked enough that believe me-I know exactly what you’re saying, and agree with what you’re saying now as well.

And correct-I was gonna do a bunch of upgrades as well no matter if it was new or not.. and it was STILL more cost effective.. by a LOT actually, which is always the case for me or I wouldn’t do it lol..

However-that being said; I can (and have) simply toss a couple pieces of hardware at it, change some fluids, and a bearing or three, and tidy up the wiring (or lack there of), and still be MILES ahead of if I had bought an RTR grade vehicle… And remember-that RTR is gonna need upgrades right from the box as well…and still won’t be as durable..

I am aware of the natural progression (or at least used to be) of surface RC though, and am not going to just blindly shoot down any option that’s not a 1/8 kit grade *uggy… There are plenty of viable options to choose from, and have a great time.. Sometimes the path to GET TO the place is what makes it all the more fun..

Bottom line-this hobby has the potential for a super high drop out rate.. So balance between spending too much on ultra high quality shiit that lasts a long time (but you better have some mechanical ability/experience), or grab up some fairly cost effective Ready To Rock stuff, stay AWAY from all the ridiculous aluminum trinkets, useless square tire combo’s, and 10” of hub extenders, and just be prepared to fix some weak links as they arrive-as is the nature of the hobby-while you LEARN to RC…

There is a WEALTH of knowledge available to you on this forum. Do not be afraid to learn as much as you can, and not just by asking “what would you buy?”… Look at what others do, or have done. Go to build threads. Look for tech threads. Common parts failures. What’s cheap, what’s expensive… Far more is learned looking for that stuff than the constantly beaten path of “what’s the fastest, biggest, jumpingest, blah, blah, blah…” That typically always gets answers like what’s seen here… “run what I like!!!!”… Just sayin lol..

At the end of the day-it’s YOUR money, and YOUR time, so be careful/particular about letting ANY of us spend it for you..

Is there any way you could keep a lookout for a used Tekno MT410 or the ET48? You seem to know a lot about Teknos and finding good deals.

 

[PainKiller]

Believe it or not, all 3 of those are owned by the same people. One and the same. Also known as Rapid Warehousing on Amazon..


Wow! A collector's item! Has it been used? My rigs look like that for however long it takes me to get a battery in, then it's all over.. LOL.
Fast Lane Machine makes some bitchin aluminum upgrades for the Traxxas 1/10 stuff! Ever see the LWB Bandit? Tasty!

Wow , they’re all the same owner? The company that owns them must be huge.

Yeah the 2wd and 4wd versions of the Stampede are completely different... I bought the Hoss, my first plunge back into the hobby a few years ago. I chose it because it was the only one of the 3 (Rustler, Stampede, Hoss) 4x4 models that came with a center diff instead of a slipper. Now all of my Traxxas 4x4s have that setup. (Rustler-Hoss-Slash-Stash-Rally-Raptor R).

I still have my old 2wd Stampede, upgraded to brushless with the latest 272R transmission, but it sees more shelf time than run time.

View attachment 202817

What’s a center dif? And why is it better than a slipper clutch?

Does the Rustler 4x4 Ultimate and Maxx come with center difs?

 

[WickedFog]

Picked this bad boy up at an auction for $160. A little high maybe, but it's in cherry condition.

The time where it almost rolled on its side, I nearly shat myself. Noooooo!

 

[9x19]

Wow , they’re all the same owner? The company that owns them must be huge.


What’s a center dif? And why is it better than a slipper clutch?

Does the Rustler 4x4 Ultimate and Maxx come with center difs?

The Maxx does, the Rustler does not, the latest Stampede VXL does.

So in the middle of the drive line, the motor's pinion gear drives a central gear. Most of the 1/10 4x4s have a slipper clutch on that gear with friction pads which wear and require adjustment. A center differential has internal gears (no clutch) is sealed and can be 'tuned' with different weight oil. Little wear on the system and no need for frequent adjustments.

 

[Littlemotor]

Is there any way you could keep a lookout for a used Tekno MT410 or the ET48? You seem to know a lot about Teknos and finding good deals.

Sure thing brothaman. There was actually a decent deal over on AF for an ET2.0. I put a member over there onto it, and he snatched it up quicklike.

Then just a month or so ago, same thing with an OG MT410, was in BRAND NEW condition, and @Lostinthewoods86 grabbed that up.. RIDICULOUS deal there..

If you’re on fakebook, shoot me a DM here, and I’ll send ya the name of the group I moderated for. Not sure how woodie would feel about me posting fakebook group links here on the open forum.. He’d probly be cool with it-just me being respectful is all.

 

[9x19]

Picked this bad boy up at an auction for $160. A little high maybe, but it's in cherry condition.

The time where it almost rolled on its side, I nearly shat myself. Noooooo!

I think I still have a full set of decals for the digger body from Parma.

 

[WickedFog]

I think I still have a full set of decals for the digger body from Parma.

How much?

 

[TeknoJ]

RTR = ready to replace

 

[paytonimusrex]

Sure thing brothaman. There was actually a decent deal over on AF for an ET2.0. I put a member over there onto it, and he snatched it up quicklike.

Then just a month or so ago, same thing with an OG MT410, was in BRAND NEW condition, and @Lostinthewoods86 grabbed that up.. RIDICULOUS deal there..

If you’re on fakebook, shoot me a DM here, and I’ll send ya the name of the group I moderated for. Not sure how woodie would feel about me posting fakebook group links here on the open forum.. He’d probly be cool with it-just me being respectful is all.

of course I found 2 truffle for sale at an okay price one kinda near for $424 no electronics and lightly used

 

[Suburban_Hooligan]

RTR = ready to replace

or Ready To Rebuild

 

[TeknoJ]

Ready to reconfigure

 

[PainKiller]

The Maxx does, the Rustler does not, the latest Stampede VXL does.

So in the middle of the drive line, the motor's pinion gear drives a central gear. Most of the 1/10 4x4s have a slipper clutch on that gear with friction pads which wear and require adjustment. A center differential has internal gears (no clutch) is sealed and can be 'tuned' with different weight oil. Little wear on the system and no need for frequent adjustments.

So am I better off getting a truck with a center dif instead of a slipper clutch? Or should I not worry about that right now?