Build Thread The most interesting Team Associated SC10 in the world

[Spksh]

And now I need your help.

I've never had the opportunity to use CVA/CVD drives before. Should I? Or is it "more responsible" and "a better use of scarce parts" to go with dogbones?

 

[CertifiedMike]

And now I need your help.

I've never had the opportunity to use CVA/CVD drives before. Should I? Or is it "more responsible" and "a better use of scarce parts" to go with dogbones?
View attachment 255389

Are aftermarket CVDs avail? MIP maybe? That might fix this for you.

I took the dog bones out of my Optima Mid and replaced with CVDs in rear and universals in front. The biggest thing was weight but also remembering how bones can get lost, wear fast...
The CVDs I picked up were smooth as silk and 1/2 the weight! The universals, still super smooth but a bit heavier.

I think the CVDs are worth looking into further for your builds.

 

[RustyUs]

And now I need your help.

I've never had the opportunity to use CVA/CVD drives before. Should I? Or is it "more responsible" and "a better use of scarce parts" to go with dogbones?

I was so glad to see CVD units bye bye. As long as the axles hold up, you have options. I'd run the CVAs. The newer #71016 CVA Bones work perfectly on T4/SC10 platforms if you are unable to score the "4 series" CVA bones.

 

[Spksh]

The CVDs I picked up were smooth as silk and 1/2 the weight! The universals, still super smooth but a bit heavier. I think the CVDs are worth looking into further for your builds.

Yes! Thank you, this is exactly the kind of enabling behaviour I hoped I'd get.

 

[Spksh]

I was so glad to see CVD units bye bye. As long as the axles hold up, you have options. I'd run the CVAs. The newer #71016 CVA Bones work perfectly on T4/SC10 platforms if you are unable to score the "4 series" CVA bones.
View attachment 255399

Thank you! Your post on compatible CVA parts is another I have bookmarked for this build.

 

[Spksh]

To add to the compatibility list, the #6371 CVAs for the re-release RC10 work perfectly (with the longer #71016 CVA bones), and come with all the hardware: the mythical aluminium conical wheel spacers, crush tubes/bearing spacers (yay!), and even setscrew-captured pins.

I'll put used CVAs into this build, but I'm very happy that there's a somewhat-reliable source of 3/16" axles. I'll use the shiny new ones in a future build.

 

[RustyUs]

To add to the compatibility list, the #6371 CVAs for the re-release RC10 work perfectly (with the longer #71016 CVA bones), and come with all the hardware: the mythical aluminium conical wheel spacers, crush tubes/bearing spacers (yay!), and even setscrew-captured pins.

I'll put used CVAs into this build, but I'm very happy that there's a somewhat-reliable source of 3/16" axles. I'll use the shiny new ones in a future build.

Yes, the axles/cross pins/couplers/pin retainers in that #6371 CVA set have the same part numbers as what's used in the B4/T4/SC10 vehicles. The problem is... Team Associated does not sell them separately .

 

[Spksh]

Yes, the axles/cross pins/couplers/pin retainers in that #6371 CVA set have the same part numbers as what's used in the B4/T4/SC10 vehicles. The problem is... Team Associated does not sell them separately .

Yeah. I think I'd like the re-releases more if they weren't such a blatant cash grab, preying on our nostalgia.

 

[Spksh]

The used CVA bones I have are, well, used. I bet they sound like train tracks when they're running. Clickity clickity clickity.

I've found that the Custom Works CVA rebuild kit fits AE parts of this era just fine. Two bonuses: it's half the price of the AE (or MIP) equivalent, and comes with setscrews. We'll use new compatible CVA bones and the old retainer springs.

How good do freshly lubed CVAs feel? So good.

Spring retainers installed, but I don't think they're actually necessary with the setscrew and thread lock. Correct me here, team.

 

[Spksh]

Shims and used aluminium hexes, like the front.

Hinge pins and spacers. The manual says only two 0.030 spacers, but that leaves a lot of slop. I might come back and shim it a touch tighter.

And the rear axles installed. I do the turnbuckle on each side at the same time, to stop the dogbone flopping out.

I'm really liking the nickel look.

 

[Spksh]

No one caught that I missed a step! I'm really not happy with how warped the nerf bars are - it looks like they lost some of the previous heat treatment. I know no one will see them once they body is on, but I'll know they're there.

I'm going to throw them into some WD40 for a few hours and then heat gun them again.

 

[Spksh]

OK, I solved my banana problem by 3D printing new parts.

 

[Spksh]

And we have mudflaps.

 

[CertifiedMike]

And we have mudflaps.
View attachment 256969
View attachment 256970

Now THOSE are some COOL mudflaps!!!

 

[Doom!]

Ok, they look even more killer installed! Great work!

 

[Spksh]

Now THOSE are some COOL mudflaps!!!

Thank you!

 

[Spksh]

Ok, they look even more killer installed! Great work!

Thank you! You can't even see the brackets I spent so long getting perfect .

 

[Doom!]

Thank you! You can't even see the brackets I spent so long getting perfect .

I undertand that feeling. I spend a lot of time detailing the cockpits of my rc planes that nobody will ever see but me.

 

[Spksh]

I undertand that feeling. I spend a lot of time detailing the cockpits of my rc planes that nobody will ever see but me.

Welcome, friend. https://www.reddit.com/r/SocietyofHiddenPaint

 

[Doom!]

Welcome, friend. https://www.reddit.com/r/SocietyofHiddenPaint

Your timing is perfect, I have just decided to give my hand a try at painting gaming mini's. I just ordered the stuff to do it this week.

I don't game but have always loved the look of the mini's and figured why not. I have always detailed the inside of my model kits, knowing nobody would see it, but I enjoy it.