Tekno RC introduces the new MT48 2.0 monster truck

[9x19]

Unlike the 1/10 2.0s (MT & SCT), according to the MT48 2.0 manual, you only need the cross pins for the F&R diffs. The included gears are the 9150B.

 

[Littlemotor]

C’mon Tekno… that’s gay…

 

[Ramp addict]

That’s pretty strange…. The manual says steel with appropriate spiders, with aluminum cross pins being optional..

That is only the center. The front and rear diffs are different.
The diff fluid setup is pretty strange 200k/200k/100k. I plan on running 50/500/30.

 

[Littlemotor]

That is only the center. The front and rear diffs are different.
The diff fluid setup is pretty strange 200k/200k/100k. I plan on running 50/500/30.

Like I said above-C’mon Tekno… That’s Gay..

 

[9x19]

It's a bit weird, 'cause the OG has all steel in all three diffs.

 

[Littlemotor]

It's a bit weird, 'cause the OG has all steel in all three diffs.

Exactly… And if you’re gonna build the “be all, end all” 1/8 MT, and literally use the race truck’s driveline, why TF would ya toss plastic in the diff cases…

 

[thewanted]

My apologies, I went with a Monster 2 /1515 combo instead.

No worries! I will probably end up doing the same, but I’ll get the Monater X ESC.

Yesterday I spent $600 bucks on the kit, today I spent $700 so I can drive it. RC, got to love it. The only hop ups are steel X diff pins and the gears that go with them and a steel spur gear. All the rest is just making the truck work.

View attachment 242470

Why did you order TKR9150B? The kit includes this part for all 3 diffs according to the manual.

What are the additional shims for?

 

[Littlemotor]

No worries! I will probably end up doing the same, but I’ll get the Monater X ESC.



Why did you order TKR9150B? The kit includes this part for all 3 diffs according to the manual.

What are the additional shims for?

The bore in the spiders is larger for the BS plastic cross pins in the front, and rear diffs, so you need the correct spiders intended for steel, or hard anodized aluminum cross pins when you throw the plastic BS in the trash where it belongs.

 

[thewanted]

The bore in the spiders is larger for the BS plastic cross pins in the front, and rear diffs, so you need the correct spiders intended for steel, or hard anodized aluminum cross pins when you throw the plastic BS in the trash where it belongs.

I don’t understand, sorry. The manual shows TKR9150B as a standard part for the front and rear diffs, which is the same part number that @Ramp addict ordered, so why does he need more just because he’s changing the cross pins?

 

[Littlemotor]

I don’t understand, sorry. The manual shows TKR9150B as a standard part for the front and rear diffs, which is the same part number that @Ramp addict ordered, so why does he need more just because he’s changing the cross pins?

View attachment 242536

Likely a misprint. It’s a requirement any time there’s a plastic cross pin to replace with steel or hard ano aluminum because the plastic has to be larger diameter than steel or aluminum.

 

[thewanted]

Likely a misprint. It’s a requirement any time there’s a plastic cross pin to replace with steel or hard ano aluminum because the plastic has to be larger diameter than steel or aluminum.

Maybe @Ramp addict will let us know if TKR9150B are included when he opens the box. I'm not convinced that he needs to order TKR9150B for the "TKR9149 – Differential Cross Pins" to work.

 

[thewanted]

My apologies, I went with a Monster 2 /1515 combo instead.

No worries. Thanks for letting me know!

I've emailed emodels.co.uk to see if they can get hold of the Monster X + 1515-2200kv v2 combo, otherwise I'll have to take my chances and buy it from a seller on ebay US.

 

[KnowAir]

I’m a lil put off by the plastic diff pins and price of the MT. I guess if one wants the ultimate 4s stunt truck, this is it. 6s, Notorious all the way. Though I do have a hard time wrapping my head around putting $1500 into a 4s stunt truck, it simply doesn’t make sense to me. The kit is overpriced by $100 easily, for the money I’d definitely go ET, but that’s not a stunt truck, and won’t hold up to 6s either. Brett from Amain pretty well demonstrated in his review of the MT48 that it doesn’t hold up well on 6s. Broke it first run. 4s is definitely where it’s at for this truck. IMO.

 

[thewanted]

I’m a lil put off by the plastic diff pins and price of the MT. I guess if one wants the ultimate 4s stunt truck, this is it. 6s, Notorious all the way. Though I do have a hard time wrapping my head around putting $1500 into a 4s stunt truck, it simply doesn’t make sense to me. The kit is overpriced by $100 easily, for the money I’d definitely go ET, but that’s not a stunt truck, and won’t hold up to 6s either. Brett from Amain pretty well demonstrated in his review of the MT48 that it doesn’t hold up well on 6s. Broke it first run. 4s is definitely where it’s at for this truck. IMO.

It is crazy, I know it. I gave the Arrma thing a try with my Kraton 6S v6, and despite being a lot gentler with it than what I see on YouTube, I've still had to spend more than I was hoping to in order to keep it running. I'm giving the Tekno thing a try just to see if it really is more reliable in the long run. I don't have a ton of free time to keep repairing RCs since my 5 year old regularly breaks his Rival MT10 too.

 

[KnowAir]

It is crazy, I know it. I gave the Arrma thing a try with my Kraton 6S v6, and despite being a lot gentler with it than what I see on YouTube, I've still had to spend more than I was hoping to in order to keep it running. I'm giving the Tekno thing a try just to see if it really is more reliable in the long run. I don't have a ton of free time to keep repairing RCs since my 5 year old regularly breaks his Rival MT10 too.

Fair enough. It’s crazy how the youtubers can ring an rc by the neck, and it doesn’t break, yet I/we can’t get through a pack without breakage, LOL. I just got a UDR a month ago, I call it humpty dumpty cuz it breaks every other outing, on my backyard track with one small jump. Yet Talbot can take it to a skatepark, send it 20’ in the air and it doesn’t break?

 

[thewanted]

An unboxing video was just posted. Unfortunately it's in German but maybe it'll help someone.

I'm pretty sure this guy is planning to install a Hobbywing Max8 G2 in it.

EDIT: The Germans are all over it today because another unboxing video was posted!

 

[Lostinthewoods86]

I'm pretty sure this guy is planning to install a Hobbywing Max8 G2 in it.

I didn’t measure or look up specs, but on our OG MT410 I held the max 8 esc over the monster X that I have installed and it appears to be close to the same size with the monster X actually maybe a few mm wider? It looks like the only issue is the way the sensor wire comes out of the max 8, would maybe have to notch out the plastic chassis guard on the side. That’s with the 1515 castle motor installed. I don’t know if the hobbywing motor is any longer

 

[thewanted]

I didn’t measure or look up specs, but on our OG MT410 I held the max 8 esc over the monster X that I have installed and it appears to be close to the same size with the monster X actually maybe a few mm wider? It looks like the only issue is the way the sensor wire comes out of the max 8, would maybe have to notch out the plastic chassis guard on the side. That’s with the 1515 castle motor installed. I don’t know if the hobbywing motor is any longer

Thanks for letting me know! Unfortunately it looks like the Hobbywing Max8 G2S is a fair bit wider or longer, depending how you look at it.

Castle Monster X - 53 (L) x 49 (W) x 36.4mm (H)
Hobbywing Max8 G2S - 60 x 48 x 40.5mm (H)

 

[Ramp addict]

which is the same part number that @Ramp addict ordered, so why does he need more just because he’s changing the cross pins?

Because I didn't catch that. I assumed they use the smaller bore gears like the SCT410.3 which is a truck I own. My mistake.

 

[Ramp addict]

While we're all building our super MT48 2.0 don't forget your bling bracing. All Racing, 2.0 compatible. I plan on building mine stock-ish but I'm old school Tekno so I know where to find all the good stuff.