thewanted's Tekno MT48 2.0

[thewanted]

Oops, forgot to post the photo before the body got scratched to hell and the car got covered in dust.

The BMX track is cool, but almost all of the jumps are too close together and too many in a row for an RC. There’s no way to clear them all, so I spent most of my time on this first double at the bottom of the start line because it had a big flat area before and after the jump.

 

[RCFinger]

Oops, forgot to post the photo before the body got scratched to hell and the car got covered in dust.

The BMX track is cool, but almost all of the jumps are too close together and too many in a row for an RC. There’s no way to clear them all, so I spent most of my time on this first double at the bottom of the start line because it had a big flat area before and after the jump.

View attachment 244195

Jump out the Burm!

 

[thewanted]

Jump out the Burm!

It’s not a Jackhammr!

The face of the BMX track is amazing. The stones are so tiny that they don’t get stuck in the car, and it’s low grip but you can slide it nicely. I’d kill to find a big open space that has a similar surface, but everywhere I go is full of stones.

 

[RCFinger]

It’s not a Jackhammr!

The face of the BMX track is amazing. The stones are so tiny that they don’t get stuck in the car, and it’s low grip but you can slide it nicely. I’d kill to find a big open space that has a similar surface, but everyone I go is full of stones.

Yea proper sanctioned BMX tracks are really nice. On a hot day it's like being on the moon or something other worldly!
No, it's not a Jackhammr, but it's still a flyer! When you get a good feel for the air control, send it of that burm. It's a grass landing isn't it?

 

[thewanted]

Yea proper sanctioned BMX tracks are really nice. On a hot day it's like being on the moon or something other worldly!
No, it's not a Jackhammr, but it's still a flyer! When you get a good feel for the air control, send it of that burm. It's a grass landing isn't it?

It is grass but you’re going to overshoot it massively and land on one of those jumps in the middle, or maybe the flat section at the bottom where people have worn a trail up to the berm.

To do list:

1) Fix ride height at the back. Feels like it’s sagging.

2) Find more body posts :/

 

[RCFinger]

It is grass but you’re going to overshoot it massively and land on one of those jumps in the middle, or maybe the flat section at the bottom where people have worn a trail up to the berm.

To do list:

1) Fix ride height at the back. Feels like it’s sagging.

2) Find more body posts :/

You have a photo of the body mounts?

 

[thewanted]

You have a photo of the body mounts?

Broken body posts? Not at the moment, but they snapped off at the point at which they screw into the body mounts (TKR1525).

 

[RCFinger]

Broken body posts? Not at the moment, but they snapped off at the point at which they screw into the body mounts (TKR1525).

View attachment 244199

Can the Arrma ones not be made to fit at all?

 

[thewanted]

Can the Arrma ones not be made to fit at all?

Maybe if you shaved them down, but currently they’re way too wide for the hole.

Don’t say it…

 

[RCFinger]

Maybe if you shaved them down, but currently they’re way too wide for the hole.

Don’t say it…

Hmm, how do i say this... Could you maybe drill out/ream the hole a bit and whittle the post i bit? I really don't know how far off they are?

Edit. Actually, looking at the manual image again, probably better to try whittling the post only.

 

[thewanted]

Hmm, how do i say this... Could you maybe drill out/ream the hole a bit and whittle the post i bit? I really don't know how far off they are?

Edit. Actually, looking at the manual image again, probably better to try whittling the post only.

Yeah there's not much plastic around the hole for the body posts so you can't take off any more.

Not really sure what you could use to shave the post? A dremel?

 

[RCFinger]

Yeah there's not much plastic around the hole for the body posts so you can't take off any more.

Not really sure what you could use to shave the post? A dremel?

How much needs to come off? Maybe start with a knife the Dremel, or all Dremel.

 

[RustyUs]

So, crisis averted I think.

Just took the car to the forest and obviously it’s much slippier than the park. I got 26m45sec out of the same pack, and that’s AFTER changing the LVC setting to “Auto (High)” which cuts off at 3.4v. Much, much better!

The centre diff outdrives were not “F**K ME!” hot as they were when I ran in the park. I know @Littlemotor loves subjective heat tests

It’s going to take quite some getting used to having a SWB truck after the Kraton. It wants to spin around on itself quite a lot.

There’s one downside of running in the forest though:

View attachment 244039

Maybe I'm seeing things, but servo horn attachment screw not used, or are you just relying on the clamping action?

In any case, Tekno has recommend that a person break-in the driveline before adjusting a box stock setup on their "racing" platforms... I see no different plan of action for their monster trucks IMO. Most of my kits had a section of the diff ring/pinion gears with a high spot. Nothing to worry about. As you have found out, different terrain/driving styles can have very different results when it comes to heat.

 

[thewanted]

Maybe I'm seeing things, but servo horn attachment screw not used, or are you just relying on the clamping action?
View attachment 244274
In any case, Tekno has recommend that a person break-in the driveline before adjusting a box stock setup on their "racing" platforms... I see no different plan of action for their monster trucks IMO. Most of my kits had a section of the diff ring/pinion gears with a high spot. Nothing to worry about. As you have found out, different terrain/driving styles can have very different results when it comes to heat.

Yeah, the screw in the servo box was very poor quality so I left it out. Not really sure what size I need to replace it.

 

[Littlemotor]

Yeah, the screw in the servo box was very poor quality so I left it out. Not really sure what size I need to replace it.

That needs to be in there.

 

[RCFinger]

That needs to be in there.

Yea, i'd take a low quality screw, over no screw at all...

Make of that what you will...

 

[thewanted]

Cool, thanks everyone. I’ll sort that screw out ASAP.

 

[Littlemotor]

Cool, thanks everyone. I’ll sort that screw out ASAP.

Most (if not all) of my 1/8 servos are a run of the mill M3 jobber.. They didn’t used to be that way though; there were some manufacturers that strayed from the standard.

 

[notek]

These mud guards will be back in stock this week, but you’ll have to fight me for them

I couldn’t resist and got a set of these knock off Backflip 4S wheels and tyres because they come in luminous green. People in FB groups say that they perform very well, and saving £30 at the moment is definitely appreciated!

hi thewanted i have a set of these copy backflips coming for my mt48 and was just wondering how you got on glueing them?. i have never glued a set of tyres before and all the youtube vids are for smaller 1/10th or 1/8th wheels. do you get tyre bands that fit tyres this big?.

 

[RCFinger]

hi thewanted i have a set of these copy backflips coming for my mt48 and was just wondering how you got on glueing them?. i have never glued a set of tyres before and all the youtube vids are for smaller 1/10th or 1/8th wheels. do you get tyre bands that fit tyres this big?.

Actionmodelisme has tyre bands that fit bigger wheels
https://action-modelisme.com/colle-accessoires/1809-vppro-rs-721-l-elastique-de-collage-large.html
I have them but haven't needed them yet. With gluing tyres it really helps to have a practice run one first, to get the feel for it. I also have the BackFlap copies on the way, taking ages to turn up for some reason. Bigger tyres are just bigger.