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Build Thread Six Pack Attack - Beer’s Team Associated DR10

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Good way to finish up the season with a pb on my final pass before the weather tanks! Def capable of sub 2.5!

IMG_0245.webp
 
Been looking at 1 of these dr10 kits myself. There is no competitive drag scene around here I am aware of. Watching your build does give me some specs to try and beat with the same platform...looks like a good time over there!! Will let ya know if I pick 1 up
Same here, most the guys in stl are running outlaw 4x4, so the only person I'm trying to beat is myself 😎
 
Same here, most the guys in stl are running outlaw 4x4, so the only person I'm trying to beat is myself 😎
I ordered something....not the dr10. Similar enough platform for us to be in the same class though. Guess I'm gonna find out about solitary drag racing soon enough.
RJS2004_A0_NDOFRSKB.webp
 
And here's the final video for the season. Definitely a bummer that I got into no prep towards the end of the season, but I've learned a lot and come further than I had expected. Now I've got all winter to do research and get the cars ready for next summer. I'm thinking we'll be able to get sub 2's on this thing, and maybe even on the slash too.

 
And here's the final video for the season. Definitely a bummer that I got into no prep towards the end of the season, but I've learned a lot and come further than I had expected. Now I've got all winter to do research and get the cars ready for next summer. I'm thinking we'll be able to get sub 2's on this thing, and maybe even on the slash too.

It would have been interesting to see what the motor temp was after each run.
 
It would have been interesting to see what the motor temp was after each run.
Yeah that's probably something I'll need to start keeping track of. But even on the last pass it was only slightly warm. Thinking this setup has a lot of power left on the table still.

But if I smoke it then oh well, gives me a reason to finally buy a DRK 🤣
 
Yeah that's probably something I'll need to start keeping track of. But even on the last pass it was only slightly warm. Thinking this setup has a lot of power left on the table still.

But if I smoke it then oh well, gives me a reason to finally buy a DRK 🤣
Just out of curiosity... did you do multiple runs with each pinion? When you stepped back down to that 19t, you could clearly see it hooked up really well. I'm wondering if the previous 20t run might have been a fluke? Everything should have been a lot faster after that diff fluid debacle.

Drop a spool in that byatch and not only solve that diff leaking problem, but get rid of that rotational weight.

Good stuff man!!!
 
Just out of curiosity... did you do multiple runs with each pinion? When you stepped back down to that 19t, you could clearly see it hooked up really well. I'm wondering if the previous 20t run might have been a fluke? Everything should have been a lot faster after that diff fluid debacle.

Drop a spool in that byatch and not only solve that diff leaking problem, but get rid of that rotational weight.

Good stuff man!!!
Nah just 1, the car is pretty consistent as long as the hook is good. And without any esc timing it didn't have much problem hooking up. I think a lot of that attributes to my prep consistency.

Yeah I figured that diff fluid really would've sucked some time, but also I was checking tension at the hexes, and also fighting that 2.6 gear ratio. The spur didn't feel too bad so the load on the motor might not have been as bad as I though.

I'm definitely going to do some gearing testing mixed with timing testing next season. This combo has to be capable of at least 2.1s if theres guys running 2.3s on velineon systems
 
Drop a spool in that byatch and not only solve that diff leaking problem, but get rid of that rotational weight.
I've thought about locking it, but after talking with a top level RCDRL member (powermad racing), he advised against it because it can make the car inconsistent and less tuneable. He mentioned that even at the top level, on the super high grip tracks, most guys wont run north of 20mil. But he did give me advice on helping seal the diff, like letting the paper ring sit compressed for 24 hours and then snugging the bolts down one more time.

The diff leak was on me though, its an aluminum housing and I went amateur hour and didn't loctite the screws.
 
I've thought about locking it, but after talking with a top level RCDRL member (powermad racing), he advised against it because it can make the car inconsistent and less tuneable. He mentioned that even at the top level, on the super high grip tracks, most guys wont run north of 20mil. But he did give me advice on helping seal the diff, like letting the paper ring sit compressed for 24 hours and then snugging the bolts down one more time.

The diff leak was on me though, its an aluminum housing and I went amateur hour and didn't loctite the screws.
Ever considered Kapton Tape? For diff seals.
 
Ever considered Kapton Tape? For diff seals.
Can't say I've every heard of it. Just always have purchased fresh factory seals. You've had good luck with it?
 
Can't say I've every heard of it. Just always have purchased fresh factory seals. You've had good luck with it?
RC guys back in the 80s & 90s used it for worn plastic bulkheads where the bearings rode. Lay a few layers in there & add the diff & the cover. Slop gone. Also used as a gasket for diffs. I've never needed to use it.
 
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