Build Thread Six Pack Attack - Beer’s Team Associated DR10

[Beer_Goggles_RC]

Pretty good progress!! Getting curious how close i can get to a 2.5s pass with this 8.5t. Want to get everything dialed in before I put a 4.0t or a 3.5t in it

 

[WickedFog]

Pretty good progress!! Getting curious how close i can get to a 2.5s pass with this 8.5t. Want to get everything dialed in before I put a 4.0t or a 3.5t in it

View attachment 250799

Can you put some taller shocks in the front to set your front wheels down farther on launch? Ow get a shorter front tower? You might even be able to get your ride height where you want it too without the tubing, and have more extension to boot.

 

[Beer_Goggles_RC]

Can you put some taller shocks in the front to set your front wheels down farther on launch? Ow get a shorter front tower? You might even be able to get your ride height where you want it too without the tubing, and have more extension to boot.

So at a idle the shocks are about 15% compressed without running any preload spacers which leaves some up travel for the hit. That definitely could be an option but I think I would also need longer and softer springs. The tubing is just there to keep the body from scraping the ground.

Ideally I would like the body to sit as close to the ground as possibly to reduce the uplift of any air that might be getting under it and increase downforce. I might even add some more tubing spacers and lower the body to get that closer to where I want it, given I've found an absolute prime nprc spot.

Thats a pretty good idea though, to help catch the car as it settles down the track.

But first I gotta set up my rear end right to keep that nose down. I was doing like 3 to 4" wheelies halfway down the pass

I think the rear suspension isn't moving at all and just riding on the wheelie bar, along with the ballooning effect of the tires is making that front end pry up.

Currently working on a video that explains my setups and the reasoning behind them. Should be uploading tomorrow or Monday hooefully!

 

[Beer_Goggles_RC]

 

[CertifiedMike]

Hopefully you'll get there. Its funny how tiny a second is until you get into drag racing... then its EVERYTHING!!!

 

[Beer_Goggles_RC]

A bit of a letdown today. The bigger tires are giving a better launch, but now I'm bouncing off the wheelie bar and losing the car after about 20 feet. Plus with the added gearing and the weight of the bigger tires the 8.5t just doesn't have what it takes to go any faster. I think 40 might be the top end for it. I can still experiment with chassis weight reductions and smaller belted tires. All in time i guess.

On the bright side, I'm getting better with the camera and editing. Now just to get better at driving

 

[CertifiedMike]

I think you're on the right track. The bar and suspension changes should help a lot.

 

[WickedFog]

A bit of a letdown today. The bigger tires are giving a better launch, but now I'm bouncing off the wheelie bar and losing the car after about 20 feet. Plus with the added gearing and the weight of the bigger tires the 8.5t just doesn't have what it takes to go any faster. I think 40 might be the top end for it. I can still experiment with chassis weight reductions and smaller belted tires. All in time i guess.

View attachment 251072

On the bright side, I'm getting better with the camera and editing. Now just to get better at driving

If you're bouncing off the wheelie bar, it's either too stiff, or you're too high iff the pavement with it. That stock mount only has 3 positions right?

You might see a big improvement with a longer wheelie bar. Looking at this one, the added length I bet would help. And it looks like you could get some flex out of it to soften the hit.
https://assaultrc.com/assault-rc-ca...r-dr10-black/?searchid=5574&search_query=Dr10

Then you have shock assisted ones.
https://ebay.us/m/sCPhJQ

These guys have some badass wheelie bars, and other stuff, but the DR10 mount is currently out of stock (contact them). This setup requires a mount and wheelie bar kit. Check out their drag wheels too!
https://www.rdesignrc.com/shop/p/rdd100

https://www.rdesignrc.com/shop/p/300mm-wheelie-bar-12in

They have an optional shock mounting system for it if you want a sprung wheelie bar.
https://www.rdesignrc.com/shop/p/rdd2511

They recommend you also grab the bearing side bars too. The side bars come in either an aluminum 20g version...
https://www.rdesignrc.com/shop/p/rdd3411

Or a brass 50g version...
https://www.rdesignrc.com/shop/p/rdd3412

 

[WickedFog]

Oh, and all that R Design RC stuff is on sale right now too. Getting ready to snag a setup for the Pinto build

 

[Beer_Goggles_RC]

If you're bouncing off the wheelie bar, it's either too stiff, or you're too high iff the pavement with it. That stock mount only has 3 positions right?

You might see a big improvement with a longer wheelie bar. Looking at this one, the added length I bet would help. And it looks like you could get some flex out of it to soften the hit.

Wheelie bar is at lowest position currently. I've got the exotek 12" CF bar on order which hopefully will help me get the rear closer to the ground, and then taking the rear suspension back to factory. Also dropping the pinion back down to 22t. Once I get it consistently straight then I'll start messing more with gearing. But the hook on these reaction+ is pretty crazy. Might opt for a standard reaction to help keep that rotating mass down.

Now that you've got me thinking about how high that wheelie bar is sitting, I'm almost wondering if I should add some internal shock spacers to drop the ride height? The more center of gravity i can get lower should help with launch too i would think. My track is perfectly flat so it really would only need a couple mm of clearance on the bottom.

 

[WickedFog]

Wheelie bar is at lowest position currently. I've got the exotek 12" CF bar on order which hopefully will help me get the rear closer to the ground, and then taking the rear suspension back to factory. Also dropping the pinion back down to 22t. Once I get it consistently straight then I'll start messing more with gearing. But the hook on these reaction+ is pretty crazy. Might opt for a standard reaction to help keep that rotating mass down.

Now that you've got me thinking about how high that wheelie bar is sitting, I'm almost wondering if I should add some internal shock spacers to drop the ride height? The more center of gravity i can get lower should help with launch too i would think. My track is perfectly flat so it really would only need a couple mm of clearance on the bottom.

That's what I had to do to my rear shocks on the drag Slash to get the rear end down.

That 8.5T is pretty far off the standard for a no prep motor. Bit I bet you will get over 40 with it once you get everything dialed in.

I have the 4.5T Tekin in our Slash. Waiting for the rain to quit so Breydon can see how it does. But most of the guys are running 2.5T motors from what I remember.

 

[Beer_Goggles_RC]

That's what I had to do to my rear shocks on the drag Slash to get the rear end down.

That 8.5T is pretty far off the standard for a no prep motor. Bit I bet you will get over 40 with it once you get everything dialed in.

I have the 4.5T Tekin in our Slash. Waiting for the rain to quit so Breydon can see how it does. But most of the guys are running 2.5T motors from what I remember.

8.5 is just what I had in the bin. Probably a 3.5 is what I'll invest in once its dialed but I dont want to drop that cash just yet. Those guys with the 2.5d and 3s doing cash days are absolutely crazy with their builds.

Do you have a build thread for your slash?

 

[WickedFog]

8.5 is just what I had in the bin. Probably a 3.5 is what I'll invest in once its dialed but I dont want to drop that cash just yet. Those guys with the 2.5d and 3s doing cash days are absolutely crazy with their builds.

Do you have a build thread for your slash?

Thread 'Slash Project: Pro-Line '67 Drag Mustang'

Nov 19, 2021

Reserving this spot in the garage for a project Breydon and I will be working on over the next few weeks. @Kimmie28 sent us his Slash drag chassis to build this on, and we're going to have a lot of fun with this one.

So far the plan is to slap the Pro-Line '67 Mustang body on this with Pro-Line Showtime wheels and Reaction wides on the back and front runners. Motor for now will be a Castle 3800kv with an old Sidewinder ESC. Kimmie already has this one setup pretty good, so other than a servo, which I have, it is pretty much good to go after that.

Here is Breydon doing...

• WickedFog
• Replies: 74
• Forum: RC Builds and Projects

• 

 

[Beer_Goggles_RC]

Shaved 1/100 of a second off my pb this morning with a beautiful pass

Still on the hunt for sub 3s. I think I know exactly how to get there

 

[CertifiedMike]

Nice!!!

 

[Beer_Goggles_RC]

Quite a few changes in the rebuild this week.

12mm up travel spacers.
Aluminum Motor cover and wheelie bar mount.
12" CF wheelie bar
Opted for the reaction HPs over the +'s for the next pass

Hoping to get out tomorrow and make a pass.

Here's the latest video recapping last week.

 

[Beer_Goggles_RC]

Also added an LED bar so I can see the car a little better as it barrel rolls down the dark alley

 

[Beer_Goggles_RC]

Awesome morning today, looks like LEDs really add some power!

New video will probably be up mid week

 

[luke66]

Was it the LEDs or your driving that got better?

 

[Beer_Goggles_RC]

Was it the LEDs or your driving that got better?

Definitely the LEDs...