Restoration Project #8 - Huge Bundle of HPI, Kyosho and HSP.

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gandalfnz

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I noticed that I see a lot of air bubbles going trough the fuel lines after coming to a stop.
if then the car remains still bubbles go away and fuel flows nice.

Is this an issue with the tank or what, basically the fuel gets bounced around the tank and creates bubbles?
 

tudordewolf

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Is this an issue with the tank or what, basically the fuel gets bounced around the tank and creates bubbles?

I haven't had that problem, but it could also depend on the fuel. Most have anti-foamers added in anticipation of the high vibrations. The internal baffles are pretty good at controlling slosh and the dip tube is in its own little well; when I empty the tank with a syringe via the fuel line, it doesn't even have a drop left in it when I turn it upside down. I just say that to illustrate how well it normally delivers fuel.

The fuel tank is slightly padded by o-rings between it and the mounting screws; if you put one above and below the fuel tank, it sits completely into the holes in the chassis for it. The "stock" arrangement only uses an o-ring below it, but that seems to only be doing half the job, so:
IMG20220908203306.jpg
 

gandalfnz

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I haven't had that problem, but it could also depend on the fuel. Most have anti-foamers added in anticipation of the high vibrations. The internal baffles are pretty good at controlling slosh and the dip tube is in its own little well; when I empty the tank with a syringe via the fuel line, it doesn't even have a drop left in it when I turn it upside down. I just say that to illustrate how well it normally delivers fuel.

The fuel tank is slightly padded by o-rings between it and the mounting screws; if you put one above and below the fuel tank, it sits completely into the holes in the chassis for it. The "stock" arrangement only uses an o-ring below it, but that seems to only be doing half the job, so:
View attachment 152060
Hey Mate

I removed the o-rings and installed the tank from the top, rather than the bottom, as if trying to remove it, its not easy when done like factory.
Do you think the o rings would make a difference. I can try and put those back on.

I also noticed my model will not use the fuel from the tank 100%, there is always a bit left, lets say in one corner, but the car will shut down as if its run out of fuel?


Cheers
Tell me this isnt the best looking FFish you have ever seen and HSP in general :)

ffish camaro3.jpg


ffish camaro1.jpg


ffish camaro2.jpg
 

tudordewolf

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its not easy when done like factory.
That's why I cut my radio tray into front and rear sections, it is indeed a headache the way it interlocks with the transmission.

I don't know if that'll solve your problem, I'm just pointing out the changes I've made. I mentioned that I had trouble with fuel filters and air bubbles, but plenty of people swear by them.

I generally shut my car down with about 10-25% left in the tank, I'm too chicken to run it dry
 

gandalfnz

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That's why I cut my radio tray into front and rear sections, it is indeed a headache the way it interlocks with the transmission.

I don't know if that'll solve your problem, I'm just pointing out the changes I've made. I mentioned that I had trouble with fuel filters and air bubbles, but plenty of people swear by them.

I generally shut my car down with about 10-25% left in the tank, I'm too chicken to run it dry
Are you able to show what it looks like when you cut it?
 

tudordewolf

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Are you able to show what it looks like when you cut it?
It looks like this :(
IMG_20220909_184711.jpg

Hit a new personal best, 47mph, (on a stock 16/21, so 20% faster than the VX18) ...then spun out into a puddle. If you meant the fuel level:

IMG_20220909_184134.jpg

If you meant the radio tray cut:
IMG_20220909_184411.jpg


Tell me this isnt the best looking FFish you have ever seen
I almost forgot to say, it's gorgeous. I'd feel terrible putting it through what I did to mine today...

 

gandalfnz

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The cut you made from the batt compartment, wouldn't do much when it comes to fuel tank removal for example? You only get easy access to transmission?

I am trying to convince myself that its just HSP and I can bash it and not worry about crashing, but I do not want to scratch the body, although I did a little bit today...haha

Mud is not that easy to clean, you will just have to soak it for a while and the hose it off, but be careful with servos and electronics box.
Looked it was going real fast before it flipped.

I did remove the fuel filter from the equation, but air bubbles are still there when tank is near empty and when I come to a stop.
Waiting for new fuel caps to arrive.
 

tudordewolf

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The cut you made from the batt compartment, wouldn't do much when it comes to fuel tank removal
It lets you remove the front tray as a single component, with the fuel tank in it. This gives you access to the clutch and transmission without touching the electronics or most of the mid-body components.

This means you no longer have to disconnect the servo linkages and remove the steering servo or its body posts.

I found it impossible to remove the single-piece radio tray without also removing the transmission because of that one portion by the fuel tank that lies under the transmission housing, in turn making it harder to rebuild.
When you've made the cut I describe, you can rotate the tray enough to remove it by itself:
IMG20220910125306.jpg
 

gandalfnz

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It lets you remove the front tray as a single component, with the fuel tank in it. This gives you access to the clutch and transmission without touching the electronics or most of the mid-body components.

This means you no longer have to disconnect the servo linkages and remove the steering servo or its body posts.

I found it impossible to remove the single-piece radio tray without also removing the transmission because of that one portion by the fuel tank that lies under the transmission housing, in turn making it harder to rebuild.
When you've made the cut I describe, you can rotate the tray enough to remove it by itself:
View attachment 152344
I think you idea with this is great!
I might give this a go next weekend.
Also, mounting the tank from the top does the trick too, no idea why they decide to mount from bottom and also use nuts and bolts to hold it down.
I must admit again, love this car, they copied all that was good from other brands and even improved on some.
 

tudordewolf

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I must admit again, love this car, they copied all that was good from other brands and even improved on some.

It's definitely a very solid design throughout, and my own current favorite / most upgraded one.

I found aluminum-cased diffs for it, not that there's anything wrong with the stock ones, but I'm tempted just for maximum rigidity and compatibility with plastic-unfriendly greases. I'm using Kyosho 30k diff grease in mine, front and rear, and I think it really improves the stability during hard acceleration.
 

gandalfnz

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It's definitely a very solid design throughout, and my own current favorite / most upgraded one.

I found aluminum-cased diffs for it, not that there's anything wrong with the stock ones, but I'm tempted just for maximum rigidity and compatibility with plastic-unfriendly greases. I'm using Kyosho 30k diff grease in mine, front and rear, and I think it really improves the stability during hard acceleration.
Did you mean 30k oil, right?
I got some diff oil I'd like to get rid off.
Did you notice that the diffs on flying fish leak?
Wondering if the diffs have a small silicone seal to prevent leakage.
I know my Electric Traxxas slash always used leak oil and you could see it on the axles, which was messy and it just attracts dust, for this reason I thought leaving the FFish with factory applied diff grease would be best.

Cheers
 
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tudordewolf

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Did you mean 30k oil, right?
I got some diff oil I'd like to get rid off.
Did you notice that the diffs on flying fish leak?
Wondering if the diffs have a small silicone seal to prevent leakage.
I know my Electric Traxxas slash always used leak oil and you could see it on the axles, which was messy and it just attracts dust, for this reason I thought leaving the FFish with factory applied diff grease would be best.

Cheers

Not silicone oil, Kyosho 30k grease. Thick enough that you can pack it into the diff and it'll stay in place while you assemble it. I wish I could convey how nice the finished diffs feel, you don't even feel the gears inside, it's super smooth, almost like a ball diff.

I haven't had any leaking issues with mine, but I haven't attempted to build them with silicone oil. I've built a set with 100k CST silicone which was more of a putty than an oil, and they haven't leaked.

There's 2 o-rings around each outdrive cup, I make sure they're fully greased during my rebuilds. I don't know how much that matters, but it seems better than having them "dry"

1663100558682.png
 

Greywolf74

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Hey Mate

I removed the o-rings and installed the tank from the top, rather than the bottom, as if trying to remove it, its not easy when done like factory.
Do you think the o rings would make a difference. I can try and put those back on.

I also noticed my model will not use the fuel from the tank 100%, there is always a bit left, lets say in one corner, but the car will shut down as if its run out of fuel?


Cheers
Tell me this isnt the best looking FFish you have ever seen and HSP in general :)

View attachment 152281

View attachment 152282

View attachment 152283
I love that purple color!!!
 

gandalfnz

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Well the manifolds arrived.
Look at how channel is at an angle....haha
This time on Ffish I used the gasket that came with the manifold, I was skeptical it will leak and it will force me to take it off again, but so far its holding ok, no leaks, at least for now.

I installed the second one on one of my HPI RS4, but ended up using the reducer I made earlier, as I damaged the second gasket somehow.
Have not testing this one yet.

can't say I noticed any difference is sound, when running the FFish with this manifold.

ffish camaro4.jpg


ffish camaro5.jpg


ffish camaro6.jpg
 

tudordewolf

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It does look a little wonky, but with the gasket I haven't had any issues. I might've just been fooling myself into thinking it sounded better, at least it's got a sportier look.

I might've asked before but I can't find the post, what tires are those? They're awesome.
 

gandalfnz

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It does look a little wonky, but with the gasket I haven't had any issues. I might've just been fooling myself into thinking it sounded better, at least it's got a sportier look.

I might've asked before but I can't find the post, what tires are those? They're awesome.
Here ya go, I purchased many in the past, these remain my favorite. I got I think 5 sets in one go a while ago.
They look, and most importantly really grip well on the concrete, car does not slide at all.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003241890592.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802NHQgNf
 

gandalfnz

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So I figured out why the car was not returning to idle as quickly as yours, and throttle wasn't responsive in general.

Throttle servo!

Stock one is adequate I guess, but crap at the same time.
Even swapping it for a cheapo Futaba S3003 made a big difference.
Now its much much better.
 

tudordewolf

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So I figured out why the car was not returning to idle as quickly as yours, and throttle wasn't responsive in general.

Throttle servo!

Stock one is adequate I guess, but crap at the same time.
Even swapping it for a cheapo Futaba S3003 made a big difference.
Now its much much better.
Awesome!

In my experience the stock servos worked, but not for long, and they get less reliable as they wear out. Basically good enough for break in, then replaced at the first rebuild.

I had one that would only glitch out while the engine was running, but seemed to work fine when tested. It would "wiggle" at full throttle, making me think I was having tuning issues.

I'm installing these locked, low-reduction diffs in one of mine now, to see if I can break 50mph with the VX-18
IMG_20220924_081343.jpg
 
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