Restoration Project #8 - Huge Bundle of HPI, Kyosho and HSP.

[gandalfnz]

Almost there, FW05 is 90% finished, need to drill new engine mounts on the chassis.
Waiting on a front bumper set from Japan.
Throttle linkage on original setup was for a rotary carb, rotated the servo by 180 and few minor changes, works really well.

 

[NCNitro]

Super clean, very nice!

 

[Doom!]

Looks almost brand new.

 

[gandalfnz]

Some photos of the refurbed drift RS4.
Drifts beautifully, got some small cones today, need more practice before I video it.

 

[Chubaka]

Still jealous of the score.

 

[NCNitro]

Still jealous of the score.

You and me both! I love my two RS4 3 cars. Beautiful job on the resto of all of these @gandalfnz

 

[gandalfnz]

Still jealous of the score.

You and me both! I love my two RS4 3 cars. Beautiful job on the resto of all of these @gandalfnz

Thanks Fellas.

Does anyone know if the small temp monitoring devices can still be found somewhere?
I searched all over, but nothing, not even on Aliexpress.
I think they are great for using on break ins....etc, and on a drift nitro especially, as those can easily overheat, and temps need to be monitored closely.
I just find it easier to use than a temp gun, look and see rather than point and click....
Alright, so RS3 is done as well, just needs a tune.
Only one is pending is HSP flying fish, which I am awaiting parts for.
Enjoy!

 

[tudordewolf]

Does anyone know if the small temp monitoring devices can still be found somewhere?

Here's one on amazon

It might be a little large to use as a permanent feature, but for tuning it should be fine. Could probably pull the circuit board out of the housing and make it smaller that way.

 

[gandalfnz]

Here's one on amazon

It might be a little large to use as a permanent feature, but for tuning it should be fine. Could probably pull the circuit board out of the housing and make it smaller that way.

Thanks

I only use them for break in, as I like to keep the engine at no less than 100C.
Otherwise I just touch the cooling head by hand and can usually guess close enough if its running too hot.

 

[gandalfnz]

Alright....

HSP fishy is ready for break in!
Looking good.
Might do a couple of tanks today.

 

[NCNitro]

Amazing job on all your restos, that looks great!

 

[Chubaka]

You sure this is a restore and not an unboxing?

Great content as always. I kinda like all the blue on that one.

 

[gandalfnz]

Thanks fella!

I noticed that on HSP engines, there is a gap between exhaust header and exhaust, even when you use original gasket.
Header opening is just too large.
I had the same problem on my mini cooper restoration, a while back.
Again, I had to fabricate a reducer from aluminum, hopefully there will be no leaks.

You sure this is a restore and not an unboxing?

Great content as always. I kinda like all the blue on that one.

Thank you!
I have a blue anodized header on my mini cooper, and was contemplating on swapping it over....but for now, will leave it as is.

 

[tudordewolf]

I noticed that on HSP engines, there is a gap between exhaust header and exhaust, even when you use original gasket.

Oh god, yeah. I completely forgot about that issue. It's insane to me that such a prominent flaw made it to mass production.

I dig the purple cooling head, I'm kind of itching to do an all-purple build.

The stock gasket has a flange to try and make up for the difference, but it still leaks.

I think can tell how it happens, they machine the face on the header down too much, opening up the passage too wide... probably because it's a clone of HPI's squarish manifold. The aftermarket manifolds don't have this problem.

I've been meaning to get some speed posted, but it's tricky to film / hit max speed at the same time. Tumbled mine last time and took some damage, but the engine kept running even with the mounts knocked out of alignment. You can also peep the aluminum diff cases I upgraded to:

 

[Doom!]

I don't know how you get these to where you can't tell it's not new. Amazing work.

 

[gandalfnz]

Oh god, yeah. I completely forgot about that issue. It's insane to me that such a prominent flaw made it to mass production.

I dig the purple cooling head, I'm kind of itching to do an all-purple build.

The stock gasket has a flange to try and make up for the difference, but it still leaks.

I think can tell how it happens, they machine the face on the header down too much, opening up the passage too wide... probably because it's a clone of HPI's squarish manifold. The aftermarket manifolds don't have this problem.

I've been meaning to get some speed posted, but it's tricky to film / hit max speed at the same time. Tumbled mine last time and took some damage, but the engine kept running even with the mounts knocked out of alignment. You can also peep the aluminum diff cases I upgraded to:

View attachment 151648

Looking good!

I can see quite a few upgrades you went ahead with, alu fuel cap, diff cases etc....
I have tried the same header as yours, but it still leaked, that one has a much smaller opening, I wonder if it affects peformance?

Whats that fancy analyzer RX box?

I don't know how you get these to where you can't tell it's not new. Amazing work.

Photoshop mate, just click on apply "as new filter"?

 

[tudordewolf]

I have tried the same header as yours, but it still leaked, that one has a much smaller opening, I wonder if it affects peformance?

Whats that fancy analyzer RX box?

Didn't seem that much smaller to me, if anything it ran/sounded better.

A SkyRC GSM020 held on with 3M double-lock. It has both "Track" and "Drag" modes to measure top speed, distance traveled, G's of acceleration, all via bluetooth app. It's tiny bit buggy sometimes but has always worked for me after a quick reset of the unit or app, and it nestles very nicely into several places on the car.

Good time to mention another mod I've done - I cut my radio tray into front and rear sections so I can remove them separately, which makes working on the transmission a lot easier because of that one tab that entangles them and makes you remove them together.... Anyway, on the C-link version they're 2 parts by default, but the pivot ball version stretched the radio tray from an L-shape into a rectangle and fused them into a single piece. Here's my split, using the original front tray which has more "meat" for the doublelock to stick to.

You could mount yours on the back of the radio tray, like this:

 

[gandalfnz]

Didn't seem that much smaller to me, if anything it ran/sounded better.

A SkyRC GSM020 held on with 3M double-lock. It has both "Track" and "Drag" modes to measure top speed, distance traveled, G's of acceleration, all via bluetooth app. It's tiny bit buggy sometimes but has always worked for me after a quick reset of the unit or app, and it nestles very nicely into several places on the car.

Good time to mention another mod I've done - I cut my radio tray into front and rear sections so I can remove them separately, which makes working on the transmission a lot easier because of that one tab that entangles them and makes you remove them together.... Anyway, on the C-link version they're 2 parts by default, but the pivot ball version stretched the radio tray from an L-shape into a rectangle and fused them into a single piece. Here's my split, using the original front tray which has more "meat" for the doublelock to stick to.



You could mount yours on the back of the radio tray, like this:

Hey, those mods look very useful, I was thinking of just buying a cheapie skyrc gps module to measure speed.
I wonder if my two speed works, really itchy to find this out soon, but break in will take a bit of time.
I know on my friends HSP, both of his are not kicking into second speed.
Just finished one tank, did not shut down on my once.
I am using traxxas RX and TX and telemetry, to monitor the engine temps, always want to keep it between 90 and 100C during break in.
Check out the vid.

First tank went without a hitch...

Break in temps

 

[tudordewolf]

I wonder if my two speed works, really itchy to find this out soon, but break in will take a bit of time.
I know on my friends HSP, both of his are not kicking into second speed.

Mine works, but again, quirks abound. Here's a rough, bodyless video where you can hear it engaging clearly.

That break-in sounds healthy. Going back through my old videos, I realize that it is sounding a lot smoother even now than it did even after I thought I was "done" breaking it in, yours will be singing after a gallon.

The second speed gear has a pin pressed into it to catch the "claw" of the clutch; without this pin the plastic is quickly worn away after a few shifts. Replacement gears and even assembled transmissions are sold without this pin in place, I've had to press it in myself. It appears to be 2mm x 8mm, which means you can grind 2mm off one of the axle-hex pins to make one from scratch.

I've even had it work itself out, so I hammered one end flat to retain it... After that, it worked, but I can see where other people's troubles may start. They sell a metal version of the gear but it's steel and heavy af, I wouldn't want to imagine that at 15k RPM...

 

[gandalfnz]

Mine works, but again, quirks abound. Here's a rough, bodyless video where you can hear it engaging clearly.

That break-in sounds healthy. Going back through my old videos, I realize that it is sounding a lot smoother even now than it did even after I thought I was "done" breaking it in, yours will be singing after a gallon.

The second speed gear has a pin pressed into it to catch the "claw" of the clutch; without this pin the plastic is quickly worn away after a few shifts. Replacement gears and even assembled transmissions are sold without this pin in place, I've had to press it in myself. It appears to be 2mm x 8mm, which means you can grind 2mm off one of the axle-hex pins to make one from scratch.

I've even had it work itself out, so I hammered one end flat to retain it... After that, it worked, but I can see where other people's troubles may start. They sell a metal version of the gear but it's steel and heavy af, I wouldn't want to imagine that at 15k RPM...

View attachment 151694

You have been such great help in this last restoration!
Too late for me now to see if the pin is in there?
I will have a look later if it can be seen and report back.
I saw another piece of platic, that looks like it slots into the groove, though there was something wrong, and it broke off from somewhere.
Is that how it works, it slots in there?