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hahah yeah , I mean I just dont wan to be like 3 laps behind lolol , if I can manage to stay relevant then I'm happy , and lets be honest , I am not looking to race him per se , but I just want both of us to have some fun with it haha !
 
It’s all a blast and when you start you have shining moments. First just going all the way around the track without crashing is a thrill. Then before you know it you are finishing on the lead lap. Winning will come but the skill increase every time you race is fun. And for a kid to get to race a cool car and learn math and gearing and mechanical stuff will be very useful later. But just have fun first .
 
Oh I just plan on having a lot of fun with my son just racing it everywhere haha , like the real competition wont be with my son lets be honest haha. What do you think of the combos of MSM ?

1/10 Pro4 HD SCT 550 2S Sensored Brushless Motor, 4300Kv
XeRun XR8 SCT Pro Brushless ESC
Protek RC 170TBL "Black Label" High Torque Brushless Servo

Would that be overkill to start with ? like should I go more conservative ?

Because I am trying to find good combos on QTM-Rc.com and I really don't know haha

 
that's sweet I was just expecting to be using like 2 batteries everytime so I would of needed like 4 to 6 in order to make sure to not have to charge everytime.
But If I only need a single one , this means that I can get like 3 batteries instead of 6.
Am I wrong to think that dual 2s will be faster than my SCT Single 2s ???? or is it quite different as far as acceleration and stuff goes ?
RC electronics are designed to run on a certain range of voltages. Like some motors can handle 2-4s. Some might only handle up to 3s. The same goes for your ESC. And the motor and ESC might handle different cell counts. Like the ESC might only handle up to 3s, while the motor can handle 4s. So 3s would be your limiting factor. You can't just throw whatever you want at them.

Vehicle weight and drivetrain has a lot to do with it as well. Take Castle electronics for example. They tell you in the specs how many cells you can run, what vehicle type they are designed for, and they list a maximum weight. Running a vehicle with more weight than the electronics are rated for will cause the electronics to overheat and burn up.

So you have to first pick electronics designed for your RC, then the rest comes down to gearing. As long as you aren't running your electronics too hot, you can increase the tooth count on the pinion and get more top end, but you will lose acceleration, so it's a give and take that you tune to your liking. You want to stay below °160F on your ESC and motor temps, no matter what RC you run. Anything above that can cause failures. So if you up the pinion size, and your temps push °160F, you need to back down a tooth.
 
RC electronics are designed to run on a certain range of voltages. Like some motors can handle 2-4s. Some might only handle up to 3s. The same goes for your ESC. And the motor and ESC might handle different cell counts. Like the ESC might only handle up to 3s, while the motor can handle 4s. So 3s would be your limiting factor. You can't just throw whatever you want at them.

Vehicle weight and drivetrain has a lot to do with it as well. Take Castle electronics for example. They tell you in the specs how many cells you can run, what vehicle type they are designed for, and they list a maximum weight. Running a vehicle with more weight than the electronics are rated for will cause the electronics to overheat and burn up.

So you have to first pick electronics designed for your RC, then the rest comes down to gearing. As long as you aren't running your electronics too hot, you can increase the tooth count on the pinion and get more top end, but you will lose acceleration, so it's a give and take that you tune to your liking. You want to stay below °160F on your ESC and motor temps, no matter what RC you run. Anything above that can cause failures. So if you up the pinion size, and your temps push °160F, you need to back down a tooth.
As an example with my set up I can run a 15 tooth pinion. Temps stay in the 150s. In summer it might be higher. A 16 tooth pinion works in the winter but is the heat of summer the temps hit 195 and shut off. I added a fan and that helped. But the 15 tooth was plenty fast and the 16 feels like it lacks as much punch to clear jumps.
 
Dang okay thanks a lot for the info ! And here I thought that you just put something together plug in the batteries and called it a day lol !
 
Haha I mean I’ll learn it’s okay haha , that’s why I wanted a kit , so I could learn all of it.

I guess I just want to make sure that I won’t buy electronics and end up not buying the right thing and wasting my money on bad quality or bad performance
 
You can buy a 2wd Slash kit. It comes with everything, including brushed motor and ESC, which you could just toss into the vertical receptical or another kit down the road. The Slash is a great kit, easy to assemble, and lots and lots of aftermarket parts availability. For a motor and ESC combo, you could get the Castle Sidewinder SCT combo for around $150. Then a Flysky GT3B radio for $45. All in, you'd have $400 into a pretty decent RC. Or drop a hundred or so more on some good upgrades for it.
 
Okay haha , I’ll drive to my local hobby shop this afternoon and speak with the guys there
They will simply tell you to buy whatever they sell. Let us know what they suggest.
 
Oh I just plan on having a lot of fun with my son just racing it everywhere haha , like the real competition wont be with my son lets be honest haha. What do you think of the combos of MSM ?

1/10 Pro4 HD SCT 550 2S Sensored Brushless Motor, 4300Kv
XeRun XR8 SCT Pro Brushless ESC
Protek RC 170TBL "Black Label" High Torque Brushless Servo

Would that be overkill to start with ? like should I go more conservative ?

Because I am trying to find good combos on QTM-Rc.com and I really don't know haha

If you're going to buy a high quality Tekin Motor Id run it with a Tekin RX8 ESC instead of a midrange Hobbywing ESC. Also I would opt for a Savox or Hitec Servo instead but thats just me.

I saw those kits , but I would prefer to stick with the tekno or team associated ones
Losi SCTs are race quality also.
 
So I just went to the local hobby shop and we ended up with this quote.

What do you guys think ?

Anything I should change ?

B3E52ADE-B7B4-4150-BA51-EAFDD036234C.webp


167407B3-D579-4CF2-AD77-D4C4BF34B074.webp
 
OMG no. Those prices are ridiculous, and I wouldn't buy 90% of that. The Hobbywing stuff... you can buy Castle or Tekin stuff for that price. The Spektrum stuff... overpriced. Buy a Flysky radio, or a Radiolink. If you want a higher end radio for racing, buy Futaba or Sanwa. For just bashing and racing your kiddo, the Flysky or Radiolink are just fine and dandy.

That battery charger... at that price... no way. Buy a Hota D6 Pro for $118 ftom racedayquads.com
It is a much, much better charger, will charge anything you're going to use, and will do it faster.

Look at Savox or Hitec servos. Or if you don't mind spending a bit, check out the Tekin high speed servo. But Savox and Hitec are nice as well. You want speed, and probably 275oz/in or more torque in that kit. The faster and more torque the better obviously. The Tekin servo checks all the boxes.
 
You do have to understand tho that those are Canadian Dollars , so the prices won’t be the same as American dollars.

But I will look for the part that you are telling me to change
 
You do have to understand tho that those are Canadian Dollars , so the prices won’t be the same as American dollars.

But I will look for the part that you are telling me to change
Oh, that makes a difference. But, yeah, look for better stuff
You're building a Tekno... dont throw it together with nothin but the best ;)
 
Haha okay I’ll check then , at first I told him I wanted a Tekin motor but he said it would be overkill for someone starting.

I understand his point but then again my goal is to have something that will last and I’ll be able to enjoy so
 
Haha okay I’ll check then , at first I told him I wanted a Tekin motor but he said it would be overkill for someone starting.

I understand his point but then again my goal is to have something that will last and I’ll be able to enjoy so
Well, you're buying one of the top end kits on the market. So his comment about overkill is pretty silly really. Tekin stuff is top end as well, but no more overkill than that Hobbywing combo he recommended, which is a bit lower turn than I would recommend.

So after a little research, 6.5t isn't really too much overkill for that kit. But definitely shop around for the electronics. I have no problem with HW stuff, but after building our Ryft kit with all Tekin rlectronics, I'll buy Tekin stuff if I can afford it. It's super nice stuff.
 
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