Nah, not at all. Honestly, it's been so long since I did the upgrade, I don't remember if they were four or six pawl hubs, and Trek just left out the extra pawls to try and make you buy a higher tier wheelset. Ratcheting the cranks is super important here on the east coast, and especially on the single speed. Both my bikes have an hour or less engagment if memory serves, but I haven't ridden in a while.
It's the stache I was referring to digging the tire into the stays in hard cornering. It's a 29x3.0 29+ tire, and the Stache has super short stays so the tire is really tucked up under you. The stays taper at the front as all frames are, I could move the tire back some, but then you lose the benefits of having the tire tucked as far under you as possible. I do have tape there to protect it as well. Did I mention I turned wrenches at a bike shop in college? Best job I ever had, just no money in it.
That bike was my supermoto. Basically take a dirt bike, and put it on wide sticky slicks. With extensive mods it'd do about 108mph. The only way it's breaking 200mph is behind a 200+MPH car. Most fun streetbike I ever owned.
Interesting, for Trek, that means they save money, because all they do is leave out a few pawls, and they don't have to design a new wheel, and all the consumer has to do to easily get a "higher-end" wheelset is to add a couple of pawls! I misspoke above, my bike had 21 POE (or whatever it's called, I forget, I mean Points-Of-Engagement), which put my bike at just over "half an hour" between each pawl. How come racheting is vital where you live? Here in the renown PNW, our trails usually aren't that techy and tight, but that's the green and occassional blue trail, it ramps up when you get to black and double black (even from what I can see of those trails!)!
Yeah, I got the shralping corners part! What size tires does the Stache come with? A 29x3.0 tire is a really big, beefy tire, lots of grip, air volume, mdapening, weight, and rolling resistance I'd guess! Good, you've got tape! I'm considering working at a LBS too when I'm at about that age, so you say it was good work, but the pay was "meh"? I'm also considering working at a LHS, can anyone provide some feedback on how it is working at a hobby shop?
For others reading this who don't know what I'm talking about, "LBS" stands for Local Bike Shop, and "LHS" Local Hobby Shop. You mean that wheelie bike in the video was yours? I'm assuming that the reason you'd have to ride behind a fast car to get higher speeds is because the car would "break the wind" for you, so there's a lot less resistance?
I’d say it’s a little over 25lbs with the dropper post. The rigid fork is original and it is geometry correct for the frame. With the tires having around 12lbs in the front and maybe 14 or so in the rear it runs over choppy stuff with ease. Rock gardens are not bad either.
Changing over to ss takes some doing but the dropouts make it easier and I have a spare wheel with a cog already on it. When I do it stays that way for a while.
For a ss on a budget go with a Redline monocog and get a decent wheel set, carbon fork and you’re gold. Great frame with drop outs so ingenious the boutique bikes look out done. I think they still use Reynolds chromoly for their frame material. Used they are a bargain. I even raced one for a couple seasons. Best cheap bike ever made...
Not bad, lightweight! Pretty much only full-carbon XC bikes can get to that weight or slightly under, and that's without a dropper, and XC stuff, meaning lightweight and effecient, but not trail, Enduro, or DH strong/tough! Oh, it came with the carbon fork? I just googled, and apparently tthere was a time when Trek sold the Stache with a carbon fork, and I also came upon this
MTBR thread.
You still have to mess about with the cables and shifter though...and the rear mech! I'd just leave the shifter and cable, and secure the cable end somehow when going SS, so to go back to gears, you throw on the cassette wheel, bolt on the rear mech, put in the cable, adjust, and done!
Interesting, but I still don't have the $$ to get another, second bike, and my bike space is also somewhat limited. I'm not sure if I'll enjoy a rigid SS, I've tried riding my friend's 20" BMX several times before, it has 2.4" tires, and it's a bit harsh TBH, and I'm more of a "spring chicken"! Don't ask me how all those guys do those crazy tricks on BMX's without aching for days afterwards
Yeah. I'm 13 and broke, so I can't get a new one. No carbon, just aluminum. Also n upgrades, just stock. and yes I do take it to the downhill park up a chairlift. everybody there laughs sarcastically when they see my bike. here is a vid of me doing something stupid on it.
I'm probably going to die on it but oh well.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JXWyx2hLvWveVLDG6
And I hit the dirt jump lines.
Well, make the best out of your bike then! No need for carbon now, I'd focus on things like a better fork, drivetrain, brakes, or tires. Just be careful, but man, you shred a DH park on an "entry-level" hardtail, let's go!
The next time you get a new bike, I'd look at something like one of the Polygon Xtrada's, affordable for what they are (
the 5 Xtrada 5 is on sale for $660 for the 2021 version, $800 for the 2022, the 6 is on sale for $720 for the 2021 version, $900 for the 2022, and the Xtrada 7 is $919 for the 2021, on sale, and $1,100 for the 2022, I have my eye on the Xtrada 6 for my next bike, too bad the 2021, on-sale 1x11 version is no longer available!).
🖒🖒
I'll take the Enduro out for a spin
