Is anybody else's hobby MTBs (Mountain Bikes)?

[Jimbobjr]

How do you calculate how much weight there is on each wheel?

What I meant is tire pressure, sorry. I generally run as low as I can go without the rims pinching the tires too bad on bigger hits. It goes up and down a little depending on how rough the trail is.

 

[HPIguy]

I've actually started

What I meant is tire pressure, sorry. I generally run as low as I can go without the rims pinching the tires too bad on bigger hits. It goes up and down a little depending on how rough the trail is.

I used to do this. But after putting new tires on my full squish bike, I found a little higher pressure drastically helps with rolling resistance and cornering. Like all things, just gotta try different pressures and see what works best for you in your environment.

 

[The_RC_Dude]

Coming from a dirtbike, I wear a lot of gear. Any recommendations on what necessary gear to wear for a new MTB’r?

Sorry for the slow reply!

Yup, first recommendation, DON'T OVERGEAR! You don't need a DH certified full face, DH pads, gloves, shoes, ect, unless you're gonna ride rough and tough DH, which you probably aren't. I'm gonna take a stab and say that "Trail" gear will be fine for you, maybe even more than enough, but not too expensive, light/mid weight, and good ventalation. A trail half shell, trail knee pads, some trail style gloves, and maybe even some trail elbow pads will serve you fine. Oh, and maybe a pair of sunglasses or riding glasses (or goggles, if you ride in the mud and rain a lot).

Here's my setup, I like to choose my gear accordingly, and these are on the affordable side!

Helmet: Giro Fixture, "universal" size, Matte Grey (a popular helmet, very affordable, has MIPs too! General Link, it's also available in an XL size, what my dad wears. The normal version is on sale now for $50, bonkers price! We got ours for ~$60, and that was a great value!)

Knee Pads: Dakine Slayers, Small (General Link)

Gloves: Dakine Covert, Small, Blue (General Link)

I haven't needed elbow pads yet, I don't ride particularly hard, and rarely crash TBH. That old bike helmet and worn pads won't be suitable. Whenever you crash, and your helmet makes contact or could've made contact with the ground, do yourself a favor and replace it! It may sound like a waste, but your head and brain are on the line! $60 for the Fixture after a crash, or $600+ in hospital bills for hitting your head/crashing a second time with a compromised helmet. For this reason, I don't really recommend super expensive, high end helmets. Pros can afford them, because they race for companies, and they're like a riding billboard! For the average Joe, a helmet under $150 is fine! If you want a slightly "better" half shell trail helmet, that's still affordable, check out something like the POC Tectal (General Link, bear in mind there are different versions of the Tectal, which in turn means different pricing).

POC is a brand that's well known for their higher-end protection gear, but Giro is no stranger to the game either, they cover a wide range of protection gear, budget to pretty high-spec. My dad also has one of their XC/light trail gloves.

Also, shoes. You may want to look into a pair of affordable, beginner MTB shoes. I won't go into too much detail, but basically, MTB shoes are tougher, will resist wear from the pins on your pedals a bit better than normal shoes, have better grip when you're pushing the bike on the trail, generally keep water, dirt, and dust out better, protect your feet better from, uh, "hazards" , and give your feet better support for better pedaling efffeciency.

Check out this site, Outdoor Gear Lab, they review and test all sorts of outdoor stuff, including lots of bike stuff! They have reviews on helmets, knee pads, gloves, trail bikes, hardtails, wheel sets, bars, pedals, bike racks, tires, MTB shoes, bike shorts, and more!

What I meant is tire pressure, sorry. I generally run as low as I can go without the rims pinching the tires too bad on bigger hits. It goes up and down a little depending on how rough the trail is.

LOL I completely though you meant the weight bias! And I'm an MTBer...I'l blame it on the fact we're discussing MTB stuff on an RC forum

These plus-size and fat tire pressures are crazy low, some of the 4"+ tires have 10 PSI in them, and they run just fine! Won't the low PSI also mean increased rolling resistance? But then again, I guess if you're running 29" plus-size tires, you're not looking to rack up tons of miles!

I run about 30 PSI front and rear in my 27.5x2.1 tires they do have tubes, and I've pinch-flated at least once before. I haven't taken the time yet to set/find the proper PSI!

I've actually started

I used to do this. But after putting new tires on my full squish bike, I found a little higher pressure drastically helps with rolling resistance and cornering. Like all things, just gotta try different pressures and see what works best for you in your environment.

Wow, really? Everyone's always talking about lower PSI, but as I have 27.5x2.1, tubed tires, and I ride a fair bit on-road with my family, I can't run like 20 PSI, I have about 30 PSI, front and rear. How much is "a little pressure", HPIGuy? 3 PSI, 4? By imporved cornering, I take it higher pressures give you better cornering support, so the tire "rolls" less?

 

[69fastback]

Sorry for the slow reply!

Yup, first recommendation, DON'T OVERGEAR! You don't need a DH certified full face, DH pads, gloves, shoes, ect, unless you're gonna ride rough and tough DH, which you probably aren't. I'm gonna take a stab and say that "Trail" gear will be fine for you, maybe even more than enough, but not too expensive, light/mid weight, and good ventalation. A trail half shell, trail knee pads, some trail style gloves, and maybe even some trail elbow pads will serve you fine. Oh, and maybe a pair of sunglasses or riding glasses (or goggles, if you ride in the mud and rain a lot).

Here's my setup, I like to choose my gear accordingly, and these are on the affordable side!

Helmet: Giro Fixture, "universal" size, Matte Grey (a popular helmet, very affordable, has MIPs too! General Link, it's also available in an XL size, what my dad wears. The normal version is on sale now for $50, bonkers price! We got ours for ~$60, and that was a great value!)

Knee Pads: Dakine Slayers, Small (General Link)

Gloves: Dakine Covert, Small, Blue (General Link)

I haven't needed elbow pads yet, I don't ride particularly hard, and rarely crash TBH. That old bike helmet and worn pads won't be suitable. Whenever you crash, and your helmet makes contact or could've made contact with the ground, do yourself a favor and replace it! It may sound like a waste, but your head and brain are on the line! $60 for the Fixture after a crash, or $600+ in hospital bills for hitting your head/crashing a second time with a compromised helmet. For this reason, I don't really recommend super expensive, high end helmets. Pros can afford them, because they race for companies, and they're like a riding billboard! For the average Joe, a helmet under $150 is fine! If you want a slightly "better" half shell trail helmet, that's still affordable, check out something like the POC Tectal (General Link, bear in mind there are different versions of the Tectal, which in turn means different pricing).

POC is a brand that's well known for their higher-end protection gear, but Giro is no stranger to the game either, they cover a wide range of protection gear, budget to pretty high-spec. My dad also has one of their XC/light trail gloves.

Also, shoes. You may want to look into a pair of affordable, beginner MTB shoes. I won't go into too much detail, but basically, MTB shoes are tougher, will resist wear from the pins on your pedals a bit better than normal shoes, have better grip when you're pushing the bike on the trail, generally keep water, dirt, and dust out better, protect your feet better from, uh, "hazards" , and give your feet better support for better pedaling efffeciency.

Check out this site, Outdoor Gear Lab, they review and test all sorts of outdoor stuff, including lots of bike stuff! They have reviews on helmets, knee pads, gloves, trail bikes, hardtails, wheel sets, bars, pedals, bike racks, tires, MTB shoes, bike shorts, and more!

LOL I completely though you meant the weight bias! And I'm an MTBer...I'l blame it on the fact we're discussing MTB stuff on an RC forum

These plus-size and fat tire pressures are crazy low, some of the 4"+ tires have 10 PSI in them, and they run just fine! Won't the low PSI also mean increased rolling resistance? But then again, I guess if you're running 29" plus-size tires, you're not looking to rack up tons of miles!

I run about 30 PSI front and rear in my 27.5x2.1 tires they do have tubes, and I've pinch-flated at least once before. I haven't taken the time yet to set/find the proper PSI!

Wow, really? Everyone's always talking about lower PSI, but as I have 27.5x2.1, tubed tires, and I ride a fair bit on-road with my family, I can't run like 20 PSI, I have about 30 PSI, front and rear. How much is "a little pressure", HPIGuy? 3 PSI, 4? By imporved cornering, I take it higher pressures give you better cornering support, so the tire "rolls" less?

Thank you for the reply. Given that I’m an airline pilot, and injuries can greatly affect my future, and I have many “dangerous” hobbies, I’m not afraid of good gear. I know about impacting helmets, as I’ve replaced much more expensive full carbon dirtbike helmets before. I wear knee braces, elbow pads, a full body protection with shoulder, kidney, and rib protection, along with a neck brace. I rode yesterday and it was 98°, and I still wear all my gear, and plan on doing the same with the MTB. The bike I previously mentioned fell through, so I’ve been looking at some others.


What are your thoughts on the Specialized Stumpjumper Expert Carbon? My concern with this particular one, is it a large, and I’m 6’1” and maybe just a hair taller. When you fall in the edge of the sizing charts, do you go the size bigger or smaller?

What about a Yeti SB5 carbon?

Are 29” tires worth looking for over a 27.5”?

 

[HPIguy]

Wow, really? Everyone's always talking about lower PSI, but as I have 27.5x2.1, tubed tires, and I ride a fair bit on-road with my family, I can't run like 20 PSI, I have about 30 PSI, front and rear. How much is "a little pressure", HPIGuy? 3 PSI, 4? By imporved cornering, I take it higher pressures give you better cornering support, so the tire "rolls" less?

Yes, really. Lowest PSI you can run is just another fad that needs to die, like 800mm bars for people that are 5'5" with a 60" wingspan. As you know, I'm running 30mm rims, and a front Maxxis 29x2.5" DHF, and a rear 2.2" or 2.3" Agressor. I ride mostly fast, flowy, hard-packed stuff these days (too outta shape for tech right now) and I find that at my weight geared up (about 240lbs) I like 28R and 25F for pressures. I can run down into the low 20s, but you pay for it with tire roll in corners, and possibly blowing a bead when you do hit technical stuff, botch a landing, etc. On my 29+ if memory serves, I run about 16.5psi rear, and 15psi in the front, on 40mm rims. Any less and it feels dead and I get tons of tire roll in corners. And on that bike, 1/2psi increments are noticeable. Just bear in mind, too low is almost as bad as too high a pressure, neither generally end well in my experience.

At 6'1" and 225lbs, I'm not built like the average cyclist, so I'm sure that plays a part in my setup. As I always say, set your bike up for how you ride, the terrain you ride, and for what feels best for you.

 

[nitropro]

Thank you for the reply. Given that I’m an airline pilot, and injuries can greatly affect my future, and I have many “dangerous” hobbies, I’m not afraid of good gear. I know about impacting helmets, as I’ve replaced much more expensive full carbon dirtbike helmets before. I wear knee braces, elbow pads, a full body protection with shoulder, kidney, and rib protection, along with a neck brace. I rode yesterday and it was 98°, and I still wear all my gear, and plan on doing the same with the MTB. The bike I previously mentioned fell through, so I’ve been looking at some others.


What are your thoughts on the Specialized Stumpjumper Expert Carbon? My concern with this particular one, is it a large, and I’m 6’1” and maybe just a hair taller. When you fall in the edge of the sizing charts, do you go the size bigger or smaller?

What about a Yeti SB5 carbon?

Are 29” tires worth looking for over a 27.5”?

Hundred percent, 29 is a lot faster and has a better rollover and increased contact patch.
Also I am new here, my stable includes a PYGA slakline, and a Mercer hungry monkey

 

[69fastback]

Well I just bought a nice little beginner bike . Pics and details to come.

 

[69fastback]

2020 Canyon Factory Strive M066

Full carbon frame
SRAM carbon cranks
G5 carbon bars
Radar saddle
Rock Shox remote dropper seat
SRAM Eagle AXS remote 1X12 wireless electronic derailleur and shifter
Rockshox lyrik ultimate 170 MM forks
Rockshox super deluxe ultimate shock shapeshifter remote lockout
Zipp 3Zero carbon rims
SRAM Code RSW hydraulic brakes

 

[nitropro]

2020 Canyon Factory Strive M066

Full carbon frame
SRAM carbon cranks
G5 carbon bars
Radar saddle
Rock Shox remote dropper seat
SRAM Eagle AXS remote 1X12 wireless electronic derailleur and shifter
Rockshox lyrik ultimate 170 MM forks
Rockshox super deluxe ultimate shock shapeshifter remote lockout
Zipp 3Zero carbon rims
SRAM Code RSW hydraulic brakes


View attachment 146898View attachment 146899View attachment 146900View attachment 146901View attachment 146902View attachment 146903View attachment 146904

Wow, that is a thing of beauty! The only upgrade I recommend is going to the RockShox Zeb ultimate. Awesome fork and super burly.

 

[69fastback]

I went this morning for my first ever mountain bike ride, and did right at 5 miles. It was awesome. I don’t have a lot to compare it to, but the bike seemed to perform great. It actually went better than I expected since my cardio isn’t quite up to par. I stopped once to rest and had to do the hike a bike once, but that was more due to a blind turn and being in the wrong gear for the terrain I couldn’t see.



The wireless shifting works so fast and smooth. I’m actually surprised at how smooth and quiet it is. It’ll take me a little seat time to get used to using the dropper post and the shapeshifter on the shock, but overall I was amazed with how well the bike pedals and how well it does over everything and keeping its stability.


The brakes are flat out amazing.

 

[Chubaka]

Nice bike! It took time for me to learn I have a rear shift only and if I hit the left lever, my lard ass is dropping a foot.

I love hydrolic brakes, seat, and shifters.

 

[69fastback]

I ordered my son. Giant Fathom 29 2 today. Hopefully it will be here next week. I also started the invisiframe install on my bike. I need to dedicate a full day to get it done, but just don’t have the time, so it’ll probably be done piece by piece over the next few weeks.

 

[The_RC_Dude]

I ordered my son. Giant Fathom 29 2 today. Hopefully it will be here next week. I also started the invisiframe install on my bike. I need to dedicate a full day to get it done, but just don’t have the time, so it’ll probably be done piece by piece over the next few weeks.

Wait, you ordered a son?

Sorry, I couldn't resist! But seriously, I just took a look at it, and it's a sweet, pretty affordable XC/light trail bike, even comes with a dropper! Yup, I've done the whole frame tape thing like 3 times. I've slathered my bike in it (Gloss finish frame tape on a Matte frame, yeah!), help tape my neighbors bike, and done a part of my sister's bike. Go slow and easy, work out all the bubbles, and ALWAYS work from the middle to the outside, to push all the air bubbles out, trust me! You can also try a little bit of heat for those challenging areas! (But don't melt the tape) Also, clean the frame and/or parts first, I use rubbing alcohol, you can also give the bike a wash with soap, water, your other cleaning agents, and brushes. You really don't want oil, lube, grease, dirt, dust, ect. Those contaminants will also weaken the tape's adhesive power!

Yes, it will take some time, I'd say expect upwards of 2 hours at best. Isn't the Invisi-Frame stuff pre-cut though? I use this stuff, it's actually Heli Tape, designed for use on Helicopter blades, apparently, to stop/lessen small nicks on the rotor blade from happening from bugs, small rocks, ect. It's pretty tough, and pretty tough to cut with scissors!

Frame tape, for all it's hassle, is worth it IMO! You keep your bike looking better, plus it increases the re-sell value, if the buyer doesn't want the tape, then just take it off! Good luck with the taping, and have fun shredding the trails afterwards! Do you have a MTB too? One last note, it is a little easier if the tape and frame aren't cold!

 

[The_RC_Dude]

Thank you for the reply. Given that I’m an airline pilot, and injuries can greatly affect my future, and I have many “dangerous” hobbies, I’m not afraid of good gear. I know about impacting helmets, as I’ve replaced much more expensive full carbon dirtbike helmets before. I wear knee braces, elbow pads, a full body protection with shoulder, kidney, and rib protection, along with a neck brace. I rode yesterday and it was 98°, and I still wear all my gear, and plan on doing the same with the MTB. The bike I previously mentioned fell through, so I’ve been looking at some others.


What are your thoughts on the Specialized Stumpjumper Expert Carbon? My concern with this particular one, is it a large, and I’m 6’1” and maybe just a hair taller. When you fall in the edge of the sizing charts, do you go the size bigger or smaller?

What about a Yeti SB5 carbon?

Are 29” tires worth looking for over a 27.5”?

Dang, ok! You don't need to wear a full on back protector and such, unless you're gonna be riding gnarly DH tracks. Most Enduro racers don't wear them! Kidney and Rib protection isn't really necessary either, but you can if you want to! Just remember, you're probably going trail biking, and not going into a war!

The Carbon Stumpy looks and probably is a very nice trail bike, I took 15 seconds to look at it, and my gut feel is it's a keeper! You're gonna dive right into the middle end of the price range? Most beginners look at bike under $1k usually...my first bike was less than a tenth of that cost, lol! You don't need full carbon, wireless stuff, ect. to have fun on the trail though! Looks like a Large or Extra Large is where you'll be at. Depends on if you want a slightly smaller bike or a slightly bigger one, it's a personal choice. I would go with the Large if I were in your shoes, because I like a slightly smaller bike, which is a little easier to whip around and do tricks on. Sure, it's slightly less stable at speed on the trail, but that's ok with me. But bear in mind, this frame sizing is very personal, so what works for me may not be your "cup of tea".

All that gear in 98 degree weather is no joke! Give me, a Washingtonian, 98 degree weather again, and I won't ride my bike AT ALL!

The Yeti looks fine too, just a tad dated in some areas IMO, but still a great bike I bet! But it is discontinued

Well, for your height, 29" is pretty much a must. I'm shorter, so I prefer 27.5", also because they are easier to whip around, accelerate and brake faster, as well as slightly less rotational weight and being more nimble. I haven't tried 29" though, so take that with a grain of salt! But true, 29" does have a slightly bigger contact patch with the ground, so a little more grip, and a slightly better roll-over angle. 29" is also better suited for very rough terrain, and it's more stable on the downhills. For some people, the difference is day-and-night, but I've heard for a lot of casual riders, the difference is not that big, or sometimes, not even noticeable! With dirtbikes, do you face the challenge of choosing the right wheel size, or it is basically standarized? Sorry for the late reply!

-Isaac (AKA TRD)

 

[69fastback]

Dang, ok! You don't need to wear a full on back protector and such, unless you're gonna be riding gnarly DH tracks. Most Enduro racers don't wear them! Kidney and Rib protection isn't really necessary either, but you can if you want to! Just remember, you're probably going trail biking, and not going into a war!

The Carbon Stumpy looks and probably is a very nice trail bike, I took 15 seconds to look at it, and my gut feel is it's a keeper! You're gonna dive right into the middle end of the price range? Most beginners look at bike under $1k usually...my first bike was less than a tenth of that cost, lol! You don't need full carbon, wireless stuff, ect. to have fun on the trail though! Looks like a Large or Extra Large is where you'll be at. Depends on if you want a slightly smaller bike or a slightly bigger one, it's a personal choice. I would go with the Large if I were in your shoes, because I like a slightly smaller bike, which is a little easier to whip around and do tricks on. Sure, it's slightly less stable at speed on the trail, but that's ok with me. But bear in mind, this frame sizing is very personal, so what works for me may not be your "cup of tea".

All that gear in 98 degree weather is no joke! Give me, a Washingtonian, 98 degree weather again, and I won't ride my bike AT ALL!

The Yeti looks fine too, just a tad dated in some areas IMO, but still a great bike I bet! But it is discontinued

Well, for your height, 29" is pretty much a must. I'm shorter, so I prefer 27.5", also because they are easier to whip around, accelerate and brake faster, as well as slightly less rotational weight and being more nimble. I haven't tried 29" though, so take that with a grain of salt! But true, 29" does have a slightly bigger contact patch with the ground, so a little more grip, and a slightly better roll-over angle. 29" is also better suited for very rough terrain, and it's more stable on the downhills. For some people, the difference is day-and-night, but I've heard for a lot of casual riders, the difference is not that big, or sometimes, not even noticeable! With dirtbikes, do you face the challenge of choosing the right wheel size, or it is basically standarized? Sorry for the late reply!

-Isaac (AKA TRD)

Lol….I think you’re all out of order

 

[Chubaka]

Just got this. New tires and tunes. Gonna ride it to the corner store as I'm redoing it.

 

[Tunedfrog]

I always thought trikes would be a kick in arse, and you can haul your tent/sleeping bag and some groceries.

 

[kdecesari]

@Chubaka nice find digging up this old thread.
You’ve got quite the project staring at you with that trike. Good luck!

This is our family cargo bike. Kids love it. We don’t really take it mountain biking, though. There are other bikes for that kind of fun!

 

[Ramp addict]

I got a carbon Devinci Troy. My main riding spot is Galbraith Bellingham,WA (about 30 minutes from my house). It's one the best places in the NW to ride. Google it and drool, it's worth a floor puddle.

 

[Houdini5150]

I have a Giant Talon that I got like 5 years ago. I have not been out on a trail in a few years. Just riding around the parks and stuff. Maybe when it is nice back outside I will take my son on an easy trail. But He is growing out of his current bike though he will be 10 soon. I have an old bike in the garage he may be able to right but I have to fix it up so the handle bars dont shift.