Duratrax Torq .12 into a Stampede

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unccpathfinder

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  1. Bashing
Hey guys as most of you have seen I'm very green to this hobby and I had some trash Torq engines that did not have the tailstocks on them and I found 1 on ebay for cheap with everything except for the exhaust on it... (questions listed at bottom highlighted in blue to skip my rambling)

The Torq's are a little longer than the traxxas 2.5 (retrofit on the stampede I have) this meaning I have not seen a stock Stampede.

I found the Duratrax Spur gear for the tranny and i feel that I can make it work as the traxxas gear does but i did not drive down to get it since he did not have the exhaust in stock (nearest hobby shop is an hour away)

I mocked everything up and can make everything fit although I will have to make a custom motor mount (no biggie)


1. My question being will the Duratrax spur gear mount cleanly on the Stampede's shaft? If someone has one laying around and wants to take a set of calipers and measure the ID of the center hole that would be awesome.

If its smaller I will drill it out to the size on my traxxas spur gears (easy enough) If its larger I could go to the local ace hardware and create a sleeve to make the spur gear ID match the traxxas gear...

2/3. Has anyone done this? if so how'd it work out.

I will make it work one way or another I have been told several times in my real truck project that it would never work and after making it work I had the same folks who flamed me ask for in depth details on how to do it...so please no flaming on how stupid it would be or it will never work b/c I will do it :thumbup:
 
The only real questions you'll have to deal with in the engine bolt up are in three areas. First, the mounts themselves; Do the tabs on the side of the engine block mate up with the engine mount? If so, you're golden.

Next up, the carb. Smallblocks tend to have one of two carbs; either rotary or slide. If the carbs look the same and are aligned the same way, you're set.

Next, and this one is the hardest part, but not all that hard. It's the clutch setup. If you have the old engine, compare the crankshaft to the new engine. You may have to cut the crankshaft to make it fit, depending on the model. It's been a long time since I've worked on a Rustler, so I cannot recall offhand. Outside of that, everything right down to the flywheel should fit.

Lastly, is the engine exhaust manifold. If the old motor was a pullstart with a square (side) exhaust, you should be alright. However, since you have the 2.5, that's a round rear exhaust. You will need to track down the Stampede Pro.15 exhaust header for the Torq engine.
 
The only real questions you'll have to deal with in the engine bolt up are in three areas. First, the mounts themselves; Do the tabs on the side of the engine block mate up with the engine mount? If so, you're golden.

with the stock pede mount it matches the inner holes of the engine to the outter on the mounting plate so I am going to make a plate that will align it correctly (this leaves about a .040 clearance between the clutch bell face and the spur gear which I feel is not enough so I want to move it out just a touch so the spur gear would be centered on the bell gear

Next up, the carb. Smallblocks tend to have one of two carbs; either rotary or slide. If the carbs look the same and are aligned the same way, you're set.

its a rotary and we mocked it up at the hobby shop last week with my trashed torq 12 it hooks up and the brake works too


Next, and this one is the hardest part, but not all that hard. It's the clutch setup. If you have the old engine, compare the crankshaft to the new engine. You may have to cut the crankshaft to make it fit, depending on the model. It's been a long time since I've worked on a Rustler, so I cannot recall offhand. Outside of that, everything right down to the flywheel should fit.

The engine came with a flywheel, cltuch and clutch bell but it is not interchangeable with the 2.5 (i tore down the other truck and it didnt work out) as long as I can get the spur gear to mate to the tranny with the slipper clutch? I should be good

just to clarify I have 2 pedes 1 with the 2.5 that I got running the other was built from a pile of parts which is getting the torq engine (the pile came with 3 bad torq engines os i made the assumption they would mate up directly but wasn't the case so thats y this is going on)

Thanks for the input though its good to see that I have my bases covered for the most part...
 
Sounds like you are pretty much golden. If you can get the clutchbell to line up with the spur gear, you should be fine, provided the pitch matches. You can dry-fit the two and make sure they run smoothly.

Have you tried to see if the stock engine mount from the stampede will work? Seems to me it should work just fine. Try assembling the clutch on the Torq, and placing the engine on the mounts loosely (as it would sit if it were bolted down). From there, if your teeth line up on both gears, you're as good as done.
 
Have you tried to see if the stock engine mount from the stampede will work? Seems to me it should work just fine. Try assembling the clutch on the Torq, and placing the engine on the mounts loosely (as it would sit if it were bolted down). From there, if your teeth line up on both gears, you're as good as done.

Yea I should have been more clear but the mount was a pede mount...I don't have a duratrax mount.

The tooth pitch is different thats y I was asking about the center hole dim on the duratrax spur gear. Instead of changing out the clutch bell and fly wheel and all of that I just wanted to change out the spur gear (cheap and easier fix hopefully)
 
You should be able to change out the clutch bell, provided it's the same diameter over the shoes, and the same bearing size. If the bearings are different sizes (possible), then it's not all that much to get the right size.
 
the bell wouldnt fit over the shoes on my 2.5 and the traxxas had 2 studs for the shoes where the duratrax had 3...mock up pix coming after dinner...
 
Okay. It doesn't surprise me that duratrax uses an oddball sized bell. When you're snappin pics, snap a pic of the crank shafts of the torq and the 2.5, as well as their respective clutches.
 
Clearance between spur and bell:
DSCN2798.jpg


Far View:
DSCN2794.jpg


Sorry about the other pix...I put the traxxas back together earlier so I could go out and tune it and get that temp dropped out on it...When I go to the hobby shop next week I will prob have both torn apart again and can take some pix then

That is using a stock Stampede mount with only 1 mounting screw (will have to build a new bracket or mod that 1 to have at least 3 points
 
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Doesn't surprise me at all that Duratrax uses a wierd bell. I would have the hobby shop help you in getting the traxxas flywheel to fit. They may have to cut the crank shaft, but other than that, it should be a direct fit.

As for the engine mount, unless the Torq is a wierd mounting pattern (again, duratrax, wouldn't surprise me) it should bolt up exactly like the traxxas 2.5.
 
As for the engine mount, unless the Torq is a wierd mounting pattern (again, duratrax, wouldn't surprise me) it should bolt up exactly like the traxxas 2.5.

same bolt pattern but the engine length is different...I dont want to shorten the shaft without the proper tools (lathe) so I think I will see what I can get to work at the hobby shop next week with the duratrax spur gear and then go from there
 
Actually, you don't need a lathe to shorten the shaft. All you need is a dremel with a cut-away disc. Wrap the engine itself in an old rag, leaving only the crankshaft exposed (you could also baggy it, either way). Cut the crankshaft to the same length as the traxxas crankshaft, and you should be good to go.

Cut a little at a time, literally 10 seconds at a time, to prevent overheating the bearings.
 
I got it mostly completed this past weekend. I heavily moded the spur gear and oversized the engine's pass through holes for the mounting bolts. I have some more tweaking to do to but it did run and move under its own power. I have to check the slipper clutch b/c the engine spins up good but it looks as if the clutch just slips a lot and a lot of the power is lost before it gets to the clutch bell... I will post up some pix tonight when I get home
 
As always I learn alot from reading these posts. Give yourself a pat on the back, nice to see somebody go the extra mile to MAKE something work.
 
As always I learn alot from reading these posts. Give yourself a pat on the back, nice to see somebody go the extra mile to MAKE something work.

Yes forums are a great way to learn...I am one to always do what everyone says cannot be done...I'd say 90-95% of the time I get it to work...Man that weather is brutal there in NC right now (i just moved to CA from charlotte previously fayetteville and listening to the radio from back there seems like the dog days are insane this year)



Here are the pix...

Traxxas and Durtrax comparison:
DSCN2804.jpg


Duratrax close up:
DSCN2808.jpg


Duratrax trimmed with dremil:
DSCN2809.jpg


Compareafter friction pegs drilled and installed:
DSCN2811.jpg


Installed:
DSCN2820.jpg

DSCN2821.jpg

DSCN2816.jpg

DSCN2814.jpg


I used calipers to measure the hole diameters and picked drill bits accordingly
I had to use a washer as a spacers between the friction plates and the brake to get more space off of the clutch bell and drill the holes bigger in the engine..I still need to custom build a mount b/c right now its only attached by 2 bolts which is good for now but I would like to do it right b/c I imagine it being cantilevered off it will start to twist and torque resulting in eroding the spur gear and/or breaking a bolt (but doubt this)
 
Looks like its' starting to take shape nicely! Good job!
 
Thanks...I can't seem to get the edit to go through right now but I was going to tag this on the end...

The exhaust coupler and muffler will be changing (purple was the only color he had), didnt wanna spend the extra $ on the muffler right now so that will come soon since I had the stampede stock and the header is a Team associated part
 
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