Bought a TC4 FT

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Well I got the diffs built correctly and most of the car built now. The only thing that is left is to put the electronics in, and trim and paint the body. I was able to sand the hub down just enough so that it fit into the carrier with no binding. I was also able to get the arms to move a bit easier. My toe out is way off though! Both of my front wheels are towed out some kind of bad. I thought I messured them correctly... guess not. The turnbuckles are both the same... just towed way out. Everytime I try to turn the turnbuckles the damn things pop off. Is this normal? I am using the RPM ball ends. I am having a slight binding issue in the right rear.. I think the dogbone is going to far into the outdrive cup and causes it to bind a bit on that side. Man, does that thing sit low to the ground! It is maybe an 1/8th of an inch off the ground. I am guessing that it is normal that you don't have much suspension travel. Afterall it is supposed to be onroad.. not off. I will snap some pictures tonight.

Tom
 
Totally different animal when compared to building off road rigs. Lots of sanding and shimming to get it right. If I remember, the hinge pins had a coating on them that felt slightly sticky. I soaked them in DA to remove whatever was on them. I also reamed out the hinge pin holes using a finger drill. The result was zero binding of the arms.

The ball ends should not be popping off unless you have already reached the bottom of the RPM end and the rod has nowhere else to go. Check to make sure you used the proper length rod if they are bottomed out. I didn't mount in the mounting holes shown in the instructions. The rod end rubbed on the wheel so I moved them in one hole.
 
Totally different animal when compared to building off road rigs. Lots of sanding and shimming to get it right. If I remember, the hinge pins had a coating on them that felt slightly sticky. I soaked them in DA to remove whatever was on them. I also reamed out the hinge pin holes using a finger drill. The result was zero binding of the arms.

The ball ends should not be popping off unless you have already reached the bottom of the RPM end and the rod has nowhere else to go. Check to make sure you used the proper length rod if they are bottomed out. I didn't mount in the mounting holes shown in the instructions. The rod end rubbed on the wheel so I moved them in one hole.

Well, I don't think they are bottomed out... the RPM cups are longer than stock, but they didn't seem to bottom out... they were easy to thread on. They are tight though. I forgot all about putting a bit of grease on the ti-rods before threading them into the cups. I may just pull them off and adjust them and then put them back on. At least I remembered to drill holes in the ball cups so that I could get at the studs with the hex wrench.

Boy are you right on the whole setup of an onroad rig. Not even remotely similar to an offroad. The tolerances are so much tighter. It is nice to see a car now... makes me feel a bit more accomplished. I will snap a few pics tonight and post them for you guys to critique and give me some advice. I am sure I made my mistakes. Also.... is the rear towed in as well as negative camber.... noticable? I guess my pics will help with the questions.

Tom
 
The rear toe-in is easily noticeable. I think rear camber was 1 degree (not noticeable), but I can't remember if it's positive or negative off the top of my head.

I can take a pic looking down of mine so you can compare if you would like.

I just got through setting droop, ride height, camber and toe this weekend in preparation for racing this Saturday. I use a set-up station to set camber and toe.
 
The rear toe-in is easily noticeable. I think rear camber was 1 degree (not noticeable), but I can't remember if it's positive or negative off the top of my head.

I can take a pic looking down of mine so you can compare if you would like.

I just got through setting droop, ride height, camber and toe this weekend in preparation for racing this Saturday. I use a set-up station to set camber and toe.

I think a topside picture of your TC4 would be very beneficial. I will also take a pick of mine just so you can see where I am at currently. Thank you for offering my friend.

What brand setup station do you have? I bought the integy one. I still have no idea on how to use it though! LOL I will learn soon enough though. Did it take you long to learn?

Tom
 
I will snap some pics tonight and post them.

The set I have is by Integy and I believe it says F1 Set-Up tools on the case. It does not come with a set-up board or set-up wheels. The important thing is to have a flat level surface to work on.

The set is fairly simple to use. Before I got my set, I actually used Ed’s which did not have the instructions in the case. I’m pretty sure he intentionally took them out of the case before lending it to me just to see if I could figure it out. :green-grin:
 
Well I am sure I can figure it out.... it is just finding the time to set down and do it. With my wife being prego, my time is running out as we speak. She is currently on travel for the next couple of days so it is just me and my stepson. He is only 6 and demands complete attention. LOL

Anywho.... here is a few pics of what my setup currently looks like... it is pretty messed up.


100_1831.jpg


100_1830.jpg


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Tom
 
Here is my top down shot.

top1.jpg
 
Here is my top down shot.

top1.jpg

Your car looks really cool my friend. Thanks for the overhead... it will make setting mine up just a bit easier. Thanks again my friend.

Tom
 
Hey Guys,

I have noticed that when you go to install the server it wants you to remove one of the tabs... did you guys have to do the same? Also.. it shows the horn offset a bit. I am guessing you need to offset the horn 1/8th of an inch?

Tom
 
The tabs will self center.

Install all the electronics except the servo. Plug it all in and turn it on. Let the servo center itself then place the horn on it offset 1 notch. turn it all off then install the servo. Dont over tighten the screws from the bottom of the chassis to the servo. They will strip! Also look to see that you have the ball stud to the INSIDE of the horn and not the outside. Be careful to set your endpoints so the linkage doesn't hit the servo and toast it.
 
That’s a 1/2” thick piece of laminated lexan with black carbon fiber inside. It is 14” x 18” and I use it as my set-up board. It is pretty sweet with rounded corners and beveled top edge.
 
The tabs will self center.

Install all the electronics except the servo. Plug it all in and turn it on. Let the servo center itself then place the horn on it offset 1 notch. turn it all off then install the servo. Dont over tighten the screws from the bottom of the chassis to the servo. They will strip! Also look to see that you have the ball stud to the INSIDE of the horn and not the outside. Be careful to set your endpoints so the linkage doesn't hit the servo and toast it.

Thanks for the info my friend. I will be extra careful. The wife is on travel and I have my stepson so I don't know if I will have a chance until this weekend to get at the electronics. I am hoping to straighten those front wheels up a bit tonight while we watch America's Funniest Home Videos... his favorite show. LOL

Did you have to break one of the servo ears off?

Sweet setup board my friend. Custom made?

Tom
 
One of the ears needs to be cut off so it does not hit the center shaft. Make sure you cut off the correct one.

The board is custom made by a guy on RCTech. I will take a better pic of just the board and post it along with a link to his F/S thread there in our Tool Talk forum.
 
Hey Rob, thanks for the info my friend. I know I asked this question before... I just can't remember the answer. You and Ed are not running the blue chassis stiffners, and sway bars correct? Also... can you tell from my pictures if my turnbuckles look ok? I realize that I have to bring the tow in... but other than that does everything look ok?


Tom
 
Looks good to me.
The sway bars and stiffeners are primarily used for indoor carpet racing. On the pavement you will get better performance with a little looser chassis. (Flex)
 
Thanks Ed I appreciate the info my friend, as well as taking a look at the chassis for me.

Tom
 

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