Bought a TC4 FT

[godale03]

Rob was so funny at the race.
He just couldn't deal with having one shiny and one not shiny front hinge pin. he insisted on changing both of them..

IMO it would have turned right much better if they were unmatched. But WTF do I know

I am kinda the same way too... it is driving me nuts that I am running a losi turnbuckle on my 18T! LOL

Tom

 

[robmob]

LMAO

Now I can't live with only 2 of the hinge pins being titanium. I plan on changing them all out to titanium before the next race. :green-grin:

 

[FastEddy]

Damn, I'm going to have to do the same thing. I need that additional .0000001 second advantage.
can't loose my edge. (Dull Razor)

 

[FastEddy]

WTB:
NASSA Alloy, Hollow lightened hinge pin set for the TC4

 

[godale03]

I was going to buy the Titanium set developed at MIT. :smart:

Tom

 

[robmob]

NASA’s are better because they are made from a new composite carbon alloy mined from Uranus.

 

[FastEddy]

I hear that the carbon alloy parts mined from Uranus are poopy.
I'm up for a set of the MIT Units.

On a serious note. I saw someone advertising CF hinge pins the other day. I believe it was on Flea Bay. Whats up with that?

 

[FastEddy]

Found them. Not for the TC but interesting to say the least.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Revo-Carbon-fib...ryZ44028QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

Awww... Here we are for the TC4
http://cgi.ebay.com/Carbon-Fiber-Pi...5715588QQihZ004QQcategoryZ44028QQcmdZViewItem

I just put a few questions out to me CF expert.
Ill share my findings with you when I get them.

 

[godale03]

Found them. Not for the TC but interesting to say the least.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Revo-Carbon-fib...ryZ44028QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

Awww... Here we are for the TC4
http://cgi.ebay.com/Carbon-Fiber-Pi...5715588QQihZ004QQcategoryZ44028QQcmdZViewItem

I just put a few questions out to me CF expert.
Ill share my findings with you when I get them.

That is interesting to say the least. CF would be super light, and is strong.... but I would have to question its rigity given the space in which it occupies. Even with the demo. It would be under alot of stress. I am very interested in your findings Ed. Thanks for the info.

Tom

 

[FastEddy]

Here is what my guy says.

They look to be the same material that is used for pan car rear axles and the like. Personally if the price is right for your budget, I'd try em just to see what happened but, I would stick with titanium myself. Just my .02. They may be awesome but I'd let somebody else guinea pig them first.. lol

 

[Rolex]

LMAO

Now I can't live with only 2 of the hinge pins being titanium. I plan on changing them all out to titanium before the next race. :green-grin:

So I guess that new medication they're trying out on you isn't quite working.

NASA’s are better because they are made from a new composite carbon alloy mined from Uranus.

I recommend latex gloves when you install them.

 

[godale03]

Here is what my guy says.

Thanks for the info my friend!

Tom

So I guess that new medication they're trying out on you isn't quite working.



I recommend latex gloves when you install them.

Man I really need to learn not to drink coffee while reading your post Rolex! LOL

Tom

 

[godale03]

Hey Guys,

I bought the RPM 4-40 ball cups and pulled them out last night and they look much bigger than the stock cups. Is this ok? Also did you guys drill your ball cups? Thanks

Tom

Also.... if I remember correctly you guys did not install the blue standoffs and the sway bars correct?

Tom

 

[robmob]

They will be OK. I used the same ones.

I did indeed drill out the cups. Makes it much easier to make adjustments and repairs as needed.

 

[godale03]

They will be OK. I used the same ones.

I did indeed drill out the cups. Makes it much easier to make adjustments and repairs as needed.

Thank you for the info my friend! Did you have any problems with the ball cups binding after you drilled them?

Tom

 

[FastEddy]

I'm using the stock units but the RPM will be fine unless for some reason they touch in the inside of the wheels. Some wheels will and some wont. I believe the wheels I sent will do good with the RPM cups.

Use a NEW drill bit, nice and sharp. I think Rob used a hand powered finger drill with his. I usually use my drill press on a super fast speed with a consistent but slow draw speed. Dont hesitate on the draw smooth in and smooth out. A hand power drill will work also. Set the ball end FLAT on some wood and go all the way through into the wood and pull back out all in one smooth action. If you press to hard it will make a dimple in the ball end and bind. Go only as fast as the drill will go naturally. Let the drill do the work.

If you are going to do it with a finger drill, get out the Band-Aids and be prepared for blisters

 

[robmob]

No problems with binding at all. I drilled them from the inside using a finger drill from my trusty Kyosho mini-z tool kit. Took about an hour to do them all which included doing the cups from my 18T.

 

[godale03]

What size bit did you guys use? If I had to take a guess it would be one just big enough for you to get a hex driver into. Thanks for the info... I am taking notes.

Tom

 

[robmob]

You got it. Just big enough for your hex driver. You want the hole as small as you can get away with.

 

[godale03]

You got it. Just big enough for your hex driver. You want the hole as small as you can get away with.

Alright! Finally figured something out on my own! Wooo Hooo!

There's hope for me yet!

Tom