Build Thread The most interesting Team Associated SC10 in the world

[Spksh]

Servo tape broke free over night.

Let's see if I can encourage it, but I've probably lost the adhesive now.

 

[Spksh]

Am I on the nice list or the naughty list? Let's find out.

Definitely need a barrier coat for releasing this silicone adhesive. Good news is that it did set up even in the sealed mold.

I wanted an excuse to swap in the 0.2mm nozzle again, so let's reprint. So crisp.

Lizard repellent, never leave home without it. Look at the Super Macro Shame View(TM) above, I highly doubt this is going to work, but you either win or you learn something, right?

Sprayed. Interesting difference under light.

Squish.

 

[Spksh]

While we wait, and now that I have the motor winched and cinched, which would you pick?

 

[Littlemotor]

While we wait, and now that I have the motor winched and cinched, which would you pick?
View attachment 261644

(A).. For sure.

As for the servo tape-if you happen to have any 3M stuff handy; clean both parts w/undiluted Simple Green & apply to one. Heat servo tape. Peel backing, apply, and allow to cool. Will be stuck for the duration.

 

[Spksh]

(A).. For sure.

And it's actually injection-molded polycarb and not vacuum-formed

As for the servo tape-if you happen to have any 3M stuff handy; clean both parts w/undiluted Simple Green & apply to one. Heat servo tape. Peel backing, apply, and allow to cool. Will be stuck for the duration.

Yeah, this particular tape is at least 10 years old, but I think I have some 3M tape in the drawer. Haven't tried the heat-set method before, that sounds like the win.

 

[Littlemotor]

And it's actually injection-molded polycarb and not vacuum-formed


Yeah, this particular tape is at least 10 years old, but I think I have some 3M tape in the drawer. Haven't tried the heat-set method before, that sounds like the win.

May be a losing battle if that chassis ended up soaked in WD-40..

 

[Spksh]

May be a losing battle if that chassis ended up soaked in WD-40..

It did not!

 

[Littlemotor]

 

[Spksh]

View attachment 261646

There might be a little bit of “fat guy in a little coat” going on with the cabling though

 

[Littlemotor]

There might be a little bit of “fat guy in a little coat” going on with the cabling though

As long as there’s no, “what’d you dooooo?!?”..

Black Sheep-not Tommy Boy..

 

[Spksh]

Mockup of the printed cable boot, while we wait for the rubber one to set up. I can't say I hate this as an option.

 

[Spksh]

Cured. Let's crack this sucker open.

Huh.

Less great on the deeper front part, but still impressive.

Stuck so well it took some of the cable jacket off with it.

I guess we're not done with this idea after all. Time to redesign the mold so it has a proper parting line.

 

[Spksh]

Designed, printed, sprayed.

Squished.

Waiting.

 

[Littlemotor]

Designed, printed, sprayed.
View attachment 261756

Squished.
View attachment 261757

Waiting.

Gotta watch your back hangin’ out with Jackie Treehorn!

 

[Spksh]

We’re all buttoned up back here, think we’re good

 

[Littlemotor]

We’re all buttoned up back here, think we’re good
View attachment 261758

Yessir-that’s definitely the move..

 

[Spksh]

Yessir-that’s definitely the move..

Look but don’t touch.

 

[Spksh]

Old AE servo tape held overnight, after clamping it for 24 hours.

 

[Spksh]

Let's tackle the ESC.

Luckily, I don't have to unsolder (desolder?) any connectors because Hobbywing doesn't assume. Which is great for me, because I've developed a fondness for XT-60 connectors. I love me a good clean polarized connector.

I don't think these soldering jigs are really necessary, but the weight keeping the connector stable is really helpful.

A trick to make this easier: pop the opposite connector in to help stabilize the pins when everything gets very hot.

Always Be Tinning.

Now this is a low-end ESC, and doesn't have a clean capacitor setup. That means I can't get heat shrink all the way down to the PCB. I debated desoldering the cap and attaching it to the back side of the PCB, but in the end I just left it alone.

Make sure you have your heat shrink, cable braid, and connector back plate installed before soldering. Clamping back the braided sleeve made me feel like I was operating on someone. It was very... organic.

Suited and booted. I could have taken some length of the braided sleeve to make it more streamlined, but this is fine.

 

[Littlemotor]

Let's tackle the ESC.

Luckily, I don't have to unsolder (desolder?) any connectors because Hobbywing doesn't assume. Which is great for me, because I've developed a fondness for XT-60 connectors. I love me a good clean polarized connector.
View attachment 261842

I don't think these soldering jigs are really necessary, but the weight keeping the connector stable is really helpful.
View attachment 261843

A trick to make this easier: pop the opposite connector in to help stabilize the pins when everything gets very hot.
View attachment 261844

Always Be Tinning.
View attachment 261845

Now this is a low-end ESC, and doesn't have a clean capacitor setup. That means I can't get heat shrink all the way down to the PCB. I debated desoldering the cap and attaching it to the back side of the PCB, but in the end I just left it alone.
View attachment 261846

Make sure you have your heat shrink, cable braid, and connector back plate installed before soldering. Clamping back the braided sleeve made me feel like I was operating on someone. It was very... organic.
View attachment 261847

Suited and booted. I could have taken some length of the braided sleeve to make it more streamlined, but this is fine.
View attachment 261849

Clean work as usual sir! Sucker for the black Samix, or Amass XT60’s here for sure (any time I’m not using a 5mm bullet).. I’ve had to do the same with the sheathing a time or three. I’m sure I’ll need to do it again here soon enough too..

Enjoying seeing your updates-this one is about to start coming together quickly; I feel like..