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If the ESC comes in on its own laterally, then (2), and photo #2.
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Build Thread The most interesting Team Associated SC10 in the world
- Thread starter Spksh
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- Thread starter
- #222
Yeah, I'll bring the ESC on its own, no need for an extension there.If the ESC comes in on its own laterally, then (2), and photo #2.
- Thread starter
- #223
The basic geometry works. Now, do I want to make it look flash? I mean, we all know the answer to that question. I've got some braided cable sleeve too...
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View attachment 260754
The basic geometry works. Now, do I want to make it look flash? I mean, we all know the answer to that question. I've got some braided cable sleeve too...
Does Howdy Doody have wooden balls, maaaan?!?
We know how you do-make it happen, Cap’n!
- Thread starter
- #225
Back in its cradle.
Here piggy...
Here piggy...
- Thread starter
- #226
Let's dress up some servo leads. First, carefully lift the tabs that hold each connector into the plug and slide them out. Carefully.
Cut some 3mm braided sleeve. Grab some heat shrink tube, the kind with adhesive on the inside.
I always have problems with the braid unbraiding. I've tried various flame and hot knife techniques, but those always pop as soon as I tried to insert the wire. So, I use the heat shrink collars to keep the cut ends from fraying and carefully slide in the rounded end of a straight rod.
And then chase the rode with the wire.
Until I have the sleeve in place.
Apply a heat gun and marvel at the adhesive melting into all the fibers and holding everything just right.
What do you we think, team?
Cut some 3mm braided sleeve. Grab some heat shrink tube, the kind with adhesive on the inside.
I always have problems with the braid unbraiding. I've tried various flame and hot knife techniques, but those always pop as soon as I tried to insert the wire. So, I use the heat shrink collars to keep the cut ends from fraying and carefully slide in the rounded end of a straight rod.
And then chase the rode with the wire.
Until I have the sleeve in place.
Apply a heat gun and marvel at the adhesive melting into all the fibers and holding everything just right.
What do you we think, team?
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Cleans it up nicely!
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Doom!
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- Thread starter
- #230
Y'all are gonna make me blush.
- Thread starter
- #231
But I suppose now you're gonna tell me that I have to do the ESC too 
- Thread starter
- #232
Am I overthinking this silly little clip? Absolutely. So let's solve the problem where the socket can move laterally.
Yes, good.
The Pile of Iterations.
And the results of y'all peer-pressuring me into doing the ESC lead too...
Yes, good.
The Pile of Iterations.
And the results of y'all peer-pressuring me into doing the ESC lead too...
Doom!
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But dang it was worth it, that is one clean looking wiring job right there!
- Thread starter
- #234
But dang it was worth it, that is one clean looking wiring job right there!
Now I've done it. Guess I'll have to do the whole thing.
- Thread starter
- #235
Wasn't satisfied (shocked face) with the bracket, so made a quick alteration.
The old one locked the lateral lock bar behind the connectors themselves, but that meant it was "floating" at the ends when installed on the chassis. I switched the lock bar around so it comes in from the back, with both bits being held against the chassis with servo tape (probably). My guess is that this will be plenty secure enough, and now there's no floating ends.
New on top, old on bottom.
The old one locked the lateral lock bar behind the connectors themselves, but that meant it was "floating" at the ends when installed on the chassis. I switched the lock bar around so it comes in from the back, with both bits being held against the chassis with servo tape (probably). My guess is that this will be plenty secure enough, and now there's no floating ends.
New on top, old on bottom.
- Thread starter
- #236
Those motor wires need some attention. I have some heat shrink braided wrap.
Ehhh it looks OK? But it's bulky.
Interestingly, the "heat shrink" part is just a single spiral strand that draws the braid together.
Let's try a per-cable look.
Yes, good, this please me
But! I was tinning the bullet connectors...
...and this is going to look gross
Ehhh it looks OK? But it's bulky.
Interestingly, the "heat shrink" part is just a single spiral strand that draws the braid together.
Let's try a per-cable look.
Yes, good, this please me
But! I was tinning the bullet connectors...
...and this is going to look gross
- Thread starter
- #237
So what if...
Very promising. Time to add to the Pile of Iteration!
Very promising. Time to add to the Pile of Iteration!
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That’s a nice touch
- Thread starter
- #239
Thanks! There's not a lot of space to work with between the motor endbell and the bullet sockets, but version 19 is looking promising
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- #240
I've been trying to figure out how to join the two halves of the cable boot together. Ended up with some notches for heat shrink to grab on to and sandwich the halves around the cable. The whole time I was trying to figure out the geometry I'd need to encapsulate all of it with one print.
Then I remembered that I've done a ton of molding and casting in my time...
Not soldered yet, I still need to get the cable sleeve on. Just a test.
I only have silicone adhesive lying around right now, so let's give this a go. Not expecting a clean pull on this, given there's no draft angles.
Squish.
Will the PETG print or lack of air inhibit the cure? Who knows! Join me again tomorrow when we find out.
Then I remembered that I've done a ton of molding and casting in my time...
Not soldered yet, I still need to get the cable sleeve on. Just a test.
I only have silicone adhesive lying around right now, so let's give this a go. Not expecting a clean pull on this, given there's no draft angles.
Squish.
Will the PETG print or lack of air inhibit the cure? Who knows! Join me again tomorrow when we find out.
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