Build Thread The most interesting Team Associated SC10 in the world

[Spksh]

Your timing is perfect, I have just decided to give my hand a try at painting gaming mini's. I just ordered the stuff to do it this week.

I don't game but have always loved the look of the mini's and figured why not. I have always detailed the inside of my model kits, knowing nobody would see it, but I enjoy it.

If you're not painting for a Warhammer tournament, we're living in a golden age for miniature painting. So many super talented independent sculptors releasing digital models for printing. Everything that used to be a dodgy resin garage kit and more.

 

[Spksh]

Time for shocks! I imagine the design documentation for shocks at Associated HQ is named something like "Shocks v2_FINAL(4).pdf" given the variations of the "v2" line. I'm going with the initial (I think?) v2 version they used on the RTR kits from this era.

The SC10 manual has the old RC10-style top-mount shock package, so I had to dig out a different manual. Turns out I'm actually building an SC10RS by using these shocks.

Remember when I said I was puzzled by the 3.0 degree rear arm mount from the manual? Well, here's the RS manual saying 3.5 degrees.

Which is great, and validates the confused face I made when installing the 3.0, but it does mean that leaving it as 3.0 now will be a splinter in my brain. Here are my used stock of 3.5 rear arm mounts, featuring a whole lot of ovals.

I opened a bag for this guy. So crisp and circular!

And "it'll only be a few bolts" later, I feel happy again.

 

[Spksh]

New springs, new shafts, new pistons, new seals.

I picked up an early set of "bleeder" shock caps. I say "early" because they're just the normal old-style shock caps that someone's run a drill through and threaded a #2-56 BHCS into. None of the holes are on center and none of them are at the same angle. Definitely feels like a retrofit prior to packaging. The newer caps have dedicated holes and locating features for o-rings; none of that here.

I opened a v2 shock rebuild kit for this, and the shock spacer between the red o-rings is different in these RTR shocks. Luckily, I saved all the spacers from other tear-downs, so I won't be using these.

Blue RTR shocks from the SC10RS manual, note the spacer.

"Big bore" shocks from the SC10.2 manual.

I did a quick measurement and the spacer + o-ring stack-up appears to be the same height between the two, but I didn't want to chance it.

 

[Spksh]

Green slime, never leave home without it.

Also never leave home without a set of shock pliers. Assembling these things is so much easier when you can grab the shaft safely. These are a cheap import brand.

I went to use the shock cap o-rings from the v2 rebuild kit, and found they're actually a size up. The o-rings from the RC10 re-re rebuild kit work.

If I'm going to build more trucks, I need a taller shock stand.

Sproing.

 

[Spksh]

The shock mount bushings have been beat to hell on many of the tear-downs I've done, so I picked up some Custom Works parts that I read were compatible. They do fit, but they're quite loose compared to the AE parts, even worn used ones.

My 4 best used AE bushings, with some plastic shock mount nuts and alternative nylon washer + aluminum locknut combo.

I like the way the aluminum locknuts look, so let's go with that. I've used a ton of these little guys in this build, think I'll need to restock for the next one. Bleed screws facing out so I can threadlock them when they inevitably work their way out.

Yes, good.

 

[Spksh]

I just noticed that I used the wrong mounting hole on the front a-arm

 

[Spksh]

It's servo time, and I need your help. It seems that, in the intervening years since I last did this, that "standard" servo sizes are... less standard.

Here are the contenders.

The vintage Tower Hobbies, Futaba, and AE servos all fit like I expect.

But the modern OEM ones that I've been able to find for semi-reasonable prices are way too tall. It's put me off spending hundreds on a new name-brand racing servo, in case they're all like this now.

Modern low-profile servos do work, but I ended up printing custom mounting hardware to get enough clearance from the bellcrank. This is an example from a different T4.x project.

My plan for this build is to use the low-profile AGFRC servo (last on the right in the first photo), and my custom mounting hardware like the T4.x above. But my question is this: Am I missing something about modern servo sizes here, or being dumb in some way?

 

[CertifiedMike]

The top part of the reefs 300 I just installed in my 87 optima mid was also too tall and caused clearance issues.
I never compared the 300 to an old servo tho.
I'll dig out boxes tomorrow if I remember.

I thought it was me!
Mounting that servo and findind a servo arm was a pain in the butt!!!

 

[Spksh]

Mounting that servo and findind a servo arm was a pain in the butt!!!

Was it dremel work that made it fit in the end?

 

[CertifiedMike]

I had to buy a servo arm with no clamp AND cut it down with Dremel.

Its tight!

Awesome! Can't post pics using Tor browser!

 

[Lukedavis]

I had to buy a servo arm with no clamp AND cut it down with Dremel.

Its tight!

Awesome! Can't post pics using Tor browser!

Isn't tor the same browser t6hat allows you to get onto the dark web?

 

[CertifiedMike]

Isn't tor the same browser t6hat allows you to get onto the dark web?

Its the one ppl use for dark web, yes.

 

[RustyUs]

It's servo time, and I need your help. It seems that, in the intervening years since I last did this, that "standard" servo sizes are... less standard.

Here are the contenders.
View attachment 257362

The vintage Tower Hobbies, Futaba, and AE servos all fit like I expect.
View attachment 257363

But the modern OEM ones that I've been able to find for semi-reasonable prices are way too tall. It's put me off spending hundreds on a new name-brand racing servo, in case they're all like this now.
View attachment 257364

View attachment 257365

Modern low-profile servos do work, but I ended up printing custom mounting hardware to get enough clearance from the bellcrank. This is an example from a different T4.x project.
View attachment 257366

My plan for this build is to use the low-profile AGFRC servo (last on the right in the first photo), and my custom mounting hardware like the T4.x above. But my question is this: Am I missing something about modern servo sizes here, or being dumb in some way?

I've used all kinds of standard sized servos in B4/T4/SC10 rides. It's all depending on the design of the servo's case top that makes things a great fit. One or two servos I took a chance with the Dr. Emel treatment...

 

[xjtorc]

Its the one ppl use for dark web, yes.

Among many other things

 

[Spksh]

I've used all kinds of standard sized servos in B4/T4/SC10 rides. It's all depending on the design of the servo's case top that makes things a great fit. One or two servos I took a chance with the Dr. Emel treatment...

That's some serious hogging out.

Are there standards for the top cap that I should look out for when buying servos?

 

[Spksh]

If I want a rear-entry servo cable, I get a rear-entry servo cable.

I spent a bunch of hours trying to invent a better mousetrap servo mount. And then I looked at the actual servo and realized it has the right top cover to just work with the stock hardware. I gotta stop inventing imaginary problems for myself.

Looking good. I'll pigtail the wiring, maybe shim the servo just slightly to get it into perfect alignment, and seal up the case. I think I'm going to like this servo for my other builds; it moved so fast when I plugged it in to center it that I thought it was dead at first

 

[Doom!]

Glad the servo ended up easier than expected. Coming along nicely.

 

[Spksh]

Glad the servo ended up easier than expected. Coming along nicely.

I'm always prepared for problems when I'm working on a rebuild like this, but I'm really not prepared for when things go right

 

[Spksh]

Let's seal up the servo.

Gotta get those lines real precise.

Peel the mask before the silicone sets up. And here's our first layer, just to get some foundation in there. Let's let this sit for an hour.

Rinse and repeat.

And peel. Yes, good.

Now we wait a day for this to set up. It'll be more like a week before I can work on this build again, so I won't have to sit on my hands.

 

[Littlemotor]

Let's seal up the servo.
View attachment 257933

Gotta get those lines real precise.
View attachment 257934
View attachment 257935

Peel the mask before the silicone sets up. And here's our first layer, just to get some foundation in there. Let's let this sit for an hour.
View attachment 257936

Rinse and repeat.
View attachment 257937

And peel. Yes, good.
View attachment 257938

Now we wait a day for this to set up. It'll be more like a week before I can work on this build again, so I won't have to sit on my hands.

I literally holyshit SAID, “I’m not the only one!?!”.. I fully appreciate your methods sir. Back 20+ years ago, when press-parts carbs would develop tune sabotaging air leaks, I layed down the sealant the exact same way as you illustrated above.

I had to chuckle at the pimp-o-licious, overachiever, wheel reinventing that was your servo mount plight.. I’m guilty of the same shenanigans, and with a damned steering servo as well-no less..