Team Associated RC10T4/.1/.2/.3

[RustyUs]

I'm looking for some helps guys. I have the RC10T4.2 RTR version, and I broke the plastic bottom caps on the shocks. I cannot find any replacements for them.

I also converted a lot of the parts over to the T4.2FT parts over the years. So the shock towers, arms, buckles, etc. are all of the upgraded T4.2FT / SC10 stuff. So I could change the shocks to the 12mm Big Bore shocks that came with the T4.2FT / SC10, if only I could find them.

Now I read some of the previous posts on here regarding shocks, and am I correct in assuming that some of the shocks from the newer R10T models could fit on my T4.2??

I would love ro find some replacements for my shocks, preferably AE shocks or better. Any help you guys could give would be greatly appreciated.

Welcome to the RCTalk forum.

I'm 99.9% sure the Enduro parts will work.

 

[RustyUs]

I'm looking for some helps guys. I have the RC10T4.2 RTR version, and I broke the plastic bottom caps on the shocks. I cannot find any replacements for them.

I also converted a lot of the parts over to the T4.2FT parts over the years. So the shock towers, arms, buckles, etc. are all of the upgraded T4.2FT / SC10 stuff. So I could change the shocks to the 12mm Big Bore shocks that came with the T4.2FT / SC10, if only I could find them.

Now I read some of the previous posts on here regarding shocks, and am I correct in assuming that some of the shocks from the newer R10T models could fit on my T4.2??

I would love ro find some replacements for my shocks, preferably AE shocks or better. Any help you guys could give would be greatly appreciated.

Yes, the newer shocks will work perfectly. Just note that the shock standoffs and pivot balls on newer, "5 series" and beyond, are designed with metric hardware.

 

[Alex34]

Yes, the newer shocks will work perfectly. Just note that the shock standoffs and pivot balls on newer, "5 series" and beyond, are designed with metric hardware.

Thanks for that Rusty!
I will give the Enduro Parts a try.

Also, when you say metric hardware, you mean the bolts, etc? Bolt thread parttern or just the type of bolt fitting, i.e. hexagonal head?

 

[RustyUs]

@Alex34, earlier in this thread, I sourced v2 12mm shock parts to replace the shocks on my T4.3 ride. I didn't want used, so I coughed up a bit more moola to have T5/T6.1/.2 damping beauties.

 

[Alex34]

@Alex34, earlier in this thread, I sourced v2 12mm shock parts to replace the shocks on my T4.3 ride. I didn't want used, so I coughed up a bit more moola to have T5/T6.1/.2 damping beauties.
View attachment 261074View attachment 261075

Were you able to find them as kits or preassembled, or did you have to buy all the parts individually?

 

[RustyUs]

Were you able to find them as kits or preassembled, or did you have to buy all the parts individually?

I had to buy the parts for 12mm V2 shocks individually, since Team Associated has moved on to 13mm bore shocks for their 1/10 scale rides. To get a complete front/rear set of shocks you'll have to look for a chop shop that breaks up kit parts to sell. Team Associated does not sell the longer rear shock sets for their stadium and short course trucks. Which is weird, 'cause you can buy the front 27.5mm set.

 

[Alex34]

None of my local shops have the Eduro caps (42080) instock atm, so will have to order them. Enduro also has an anodized aluminium version (#42085), which I would prefer, but they are quadruple the price.

Found some "Centro 12mm Big Bore Shocks" online, but have no idea if they will fit. Do any of you guys have and experience with these shocks??

https://radio-controlled.co.uk/prod...front-shock-absorbers-90mm-pr/?v=7885444af42e

 

[RustyUs]

None of my local shops have the Eduro caps (42080) instock atm, so will have to order them. Enduro also has an anodized aluminium version (#42085), which I would prefer, but they are quadruple the price.

Found some "Centro 12mm Big Bore Shocks" online, but have no idea if they will fit. Do any of you guys have and experience with these shocks??

https://radio-controlled.co.uk/prod...front-shock-absorbers-90mm-pr/?v=7885444af42e

View attachment 261348

View attachment 261347

90mm and 102mm length shocks would be perfect. I measured 84mm/102mm (F/R) on my 4.2's shocks, but keep in mind I also run 4.752mm worth of limiters in the front shocks. I have no first-hand experience with Centro RC products, but they have a great reputation on mid motor conversions. I have no doubt their shocks are uber great.

 

[Alex34]

90mm and 102mm length shocks would be perfect. I measured 84mm/102mm (F/R) on my 4.2's shocks, but keep in mind I also run 6 internal limiters (0.03") on the front shocks. I have no first-hand experience with Centro RC products, but they have a great reputation on mid motor conversions. I have no doubt their shocks are uber great.

Fantastic! Will give them a go then. Feels more sensible to spend £50 on new upgraded shocks, than £70 on aluminium caps for the old shocks. The plastic ones will eventually break again, so... a bit pointless.

 

[Alex34]

Well, I received the Centro shocks, assembled them, filled them with oil, but cannot for the life of me get them right. There is no bleeder, just a bladder diaphragm. And tried every which way I have known or researched, but there is always some form of rebound and contraction.

Anyone have any tips on how to get these shocks right? Or is this just the way they will perform? I'm at the point of binning them off and just getting the shock bottom caps for the old shocks.

 

[RetroThutmose]

Well, I received the Centro shocks, assembled them, filled them with oil, but cannot for the life of me get them right. There is no bleeder, just a bladder diaphragm. And tried every which way I have known or researched, but there is always some form of rebound and contraction.

Anyone have any tips on how to get these shocks right? Or is this just the way they will perform? I'm at the point of binning them off and just getting the shock bottom caps for the old shocks.

The way i do Traxxas ultra shocks is build them, put oil in them, let the bubbles come out. Then with the shock fully extended I put the bladder on. I use a socket with a hex head that fits into the bladder to hold it in place. Then I slowly compress the shock and let the excess fluid bleed out the edges of the bladder. Then when I get it to where I want I will extend the shock just a tiny amount to suck in the bladder, a very tiny amount is needed just to make sure there's good clearance to get the cap on without losing the seal between the bladder and body. After some practice I can pretty much do it blindfolded. This also helps you add some rebound if you want some by compressing the shock less. I don't think this is the "correct" way to do it. But some oval racing guys showed me that how they do their bladder style shocks for everything from Traxxas to midgets to LM etc.

 

[Alex34]

The way i do Traxxas ultra shocks is build them, put oil in them, let the bubbles come out. Then with the shock fully extended I put the bladder on. I use a socket with a hex head that fits into the bladder to hold it in place. Then I slowly compress the shock and let the excess fluid bleed out the edges of the bladder. Then when I get it to where I want I will extend the shock just a tiny amount to suck in the bladder, a very tiny amount is needed just to make sure there's good clearance to get the cap on without losing the seal between the bladder and body. After some practice I can pretty much do it blindfolded. This also helps you add some rebound if you want some by compressing the shock less. I don't think this is the "correct" way to do it. But some oval racing guys showed me that how they do their bladder style shocks for everything from Traxxas to midgets to LM etc.

Thanks, will give this a try

 

[Alex34]

Well, I figured out what the problem is. These Centro shocks are crap.

The tolerances are way off and air is being pulled in from the bottom. After filling the in shocks, I can see the air being pulled in from the bottom, whenever I pump the piston, air just keeps coming in.

I thought it was a bit of a gamble, after seeing absolutely no review of these shocks online. Back to the drawing board for me then. This sucks... I should have bought the Associated 12mm shock kits when I had the opportunity to.

 

[RustyUs]

Well, I figured out what the problem is. These Centro shocks are crap.

The tolerances are way off and air is being pulled in from the bottom. After filling the in shocks, I can see the air being pulled in from the bottom, whenever I pump the piston, air just keeps coming in.

I thought it was a bit of a gamble, after seeing absolutely no review of these shocks online. Back to the drawing board for me then. This sucks... I should have bought the Associated 12mm shock kits when I had the opportunity to.

Well, that blows. Here I was trying to find a set in the US to buy .

Is it all of the shocks that you are having trouble with?
Can you feel a bit of resistance/o-ring squish when you are tightening the bottom cap?
Are you sure it's not just the air bubbles from beneath the piston?
Did you tear an o-ring?

 

[Alex34]

We that blows. Here I was trying to find a set in the US to buy .

Is it all of the shocks that you are having trouble with?
Can you feel a bit of resistance/o-ring squish when you are tightening the bottom cap?
Are you sure it's not just the air bubbles from beneath the piston?
Did you tear an o-ring?

It's all of them.

I thought it was a bit slack when I asswmbled them. The o-rings looked perfectly fine, unless they are a bit old and have shrunk. There is no squish at all when tightening the bottom cap, I even over-tightened them, but no difference. Will have a word with the distributor tomorrow or Monday. Maybe try some new o-rings but I honestly don't think it will change much.

Need to go on the hunt for some AE shocks and call it a day.

 

[Alex34]

Do you guys reckon the 12mm shocks from the T5M would fit my T4.2? They are the same length shock bodies, 12x27.5 and 12x36.

 

[RustyUs]

It's all of them.

I thought it was a bit slack when I asswmbled them. The o-rings looked perfectly fine, unless they are a bit old and have shrunk. There is no squish at all when tightening the bottom cap, I even over-tightened them, but no difference. Will have a word with the distributor tomorrow or Monday. Maybe try some new o-rings but I honestly don't think it will change much.

Need to go on the hunt for some AE shocks and call it a day.

Hmmm. I wonder if there should be two "hat" bushings/spacers per shock. You know, one at each end of the o-rings.

 

[Alex34]

Hmmm. I wonder if there should be two "hat" bushings/spacers per shock. You know, one at each end of the o-rings.
View attachment 261672

Yeah, well there surely isn't extras in the package. What you see on the pic is exactly what you get.

There are groves in the bottom caps, that look like you could fit o-rings. But even if you did, it wouldn't make any difference. It's too slack where the red o-rings are.

Centro sent asswmbly instructions, and there is nothing extra shown on it either.

 

[RustyUs]

Do you guys reckon the 12mm shocks from the T5M would fit my T4.2? They are the same length shock bodies, 12x27.5 and 12x36.

Yes, they'll fit. I believe one of the major differences between T4.2FT 12mm V1 shocks and T5/T6.1/T6.2 12mm V2 shocks is the hat bushings. I thought I could use my old v1 shock rebuild kits for v2 shocks... nope.

 

[RustyUs]

Yeah, well there surely isn't extras in the package. What you see on the pic is exactly what you get.

There are groves in the bottom caps, that look like you could fit o-rings. But even if you did, it wouldn't make any difference. It's too slack where the red o-rings are.

Centro sent asswmbly instructions, and there is nothing extra shown on it either.
View attachment 261674

I don't know what to say. Maybe try and return the shocks as they are defective.