Team Associated RC10T4/.1/.2/.3

[RustyUs]

Alternative Front Hex Conversion

Team Associated "5 series" axles, steering blocks, caster blocks for PROSC10/DB10/TROPHY RAT have been used to convert older T4 and SC10 rides.

 

[RustyUs]

I've not heard any more on the reproduction of T4.2FT axles, but...

Nick DiVitto said: I did a run of B4.2 front axle stubs. These are machined from high quality 4140 steel and are functionally equivalent to Associated part number 7496. These are the correct length and offset for B4 buggies. I’ll do T4.2 front axles next depending on the response these get.
Available for sale here: https://www.moto-obscura.com/.../front-hex-axle-stub-for...
Comes in sets of two, and each purchase will include two C-clips as well.

 

[RustyUs]

Where 'Round Here?

Every time I think I'm ready to do this shock upgrade, something is always missing to make 'em work. Now, it's the pistons. I bought them years ago... put them in a labeled easy to find box. Apparently, easy to find back then does not have the same meaning now.

 

[skunknuggit]

Nice!! Is that a t4?

 

[skunknuggit]

Nice!! Is that a t4?

Nevermind i just read the title of the thread lol... do you know a place to get those little blue shock stand offs? I only need 1 but I'll buy a whole damn case if need be lol

 

[RustyUs]

Nevermind i just read the title of the thread lol... do you know a place to get those little blue shock stand offs? I only need 1 but I'll buy a whole damn case if need be lol

The standoffs/bushings that I'll be using on my T4.3 are actually...

I got the bushings because the shock caps are the newer size/style that I'll be using...

 

[RustyUs]

Found 'Em

My GHEA pistons were buried with other little shock tidbits.

 

[skunknuggit]

The standoffs/bushings that I'll be using on my T4.3 are actually...
View attachment 233901

View attachment 233902

I got the bushings because the shock caps are the newer size/style that I'll

The standoffs/bushings that I'll be using on my T4.3 are actually...
View attachment 233901

View attachment 233902

I got the bushings because the shock caps are the newer nice... did you switch everything over to metric? My t4 has those silver looking shocks with the bleeders and all but the standoff are metric. I think I saw a screwz brand kit for metric but wasn't sure if that was a good idea or not.

The standoffs/bushings that I'll be using on my

The standoffs/bushings that I'll be using on my T4.3 are actually...
View attachment 233901

View attachment 233902

I got the bushings because the shock caps are the newer size/style that I'll be using...
View attachment 233903

Did you convert the whole chassis to metric?

 

[RustyUs]

Did you convert the whole chassis to metric?

The screws that connect the shock bushings to the shock towers will be the only M3 screws on my T4.3 ride. My T4.2FT & SC10 platforms has/had more metric hardware used throughout the chassis. I switched to Associated's HD ball studs for the rear camber links/turnbuckles after snapping a couple of the stock 4-40 ball studs on the rear chassis "u brace". For me, it's the weakest spot of the whole platform.

 

[skunknuggit]

The screws that connect the shock bushings to the shock towers will be the only M3 screws on my T4.3 ride. My T4.2FT & SC10 platforms has/had more metric hardware used throughout the chassis. I switched to Associated's HD ball studs for the rear camber links/turnbuckles after snapping a couple of the stock 4-40 ball studs on the rear chassis "u brace". For me, it's the weakest spot of the whole platform.
View attachment 233918View attachment 233919
View attachment 233922

Ya I've broken a couple of those and upgraded to those because that's what I had. Probably going to switch them all throughout. I have another ?? If you don't mind... I got some spare parts with my truck and the arms it had on it had a wider mount for the carriers and 2 tabs for the shock mount. All the replacement arms had a narrower mount and 1 shock tab. So no b5 hubs/axles and 1 tab seems weaker. I have no idea what the arms are from if you know i would appreciate the info

 

[CertifiedMike]

Ya I've broken a couple of those and upgraded to those because that's what I had. Probably going to switch them all throughout. I have another ?? If you don't mind... I got some spare parts with my truck and the arms it had on it had a wider mount for the carriers and 2 tabs for the shock mount. All the replacement arms had a narrower mount and 1 shock tab. So no b5 hubs/axles and 1 tab seems weaker. I have no idea what the arms are from if you know i would appreciate the info

https://rpmrcproducts.com/shop/a-arms/front-a-arms/assoc-gt2-t4-sc10-front-a-arms/

 

[RustyUs]

Ya I've broken a couple of those and upgraded to those because that's what I had. Probably going to switch them all throughout. I have another ?? If you don't mind... I got some spare parts with my truck and the arms it had on it had a wider mount for the carriers and 2 tabs for the shock mount. All the replacement arms had a narrower mount and 1 shock tab. So no b5 hubs/axles and 1 tab seems weaker. I have no idea what the arms are from if you know i would appreciate the info

Sounds to me like you are talking about the front SC10B front shock tower that was used on the SC10B, SC10.2FT, and RC10T4.2FT models. The wider front shock was used in conjunction with the gull wing arms (pictured left below) vs. standard T4 tower and arms.

I got rid of the gull wing arms and SC10B shock tower on my T4.2FT, because I couldn't stand the bulldog body.

 

[RustyUs]

Ya I've broken a couple of those and upgraded to those because that's what I had. Probably going to switch them all throughout. I have another ?? If you don't mind... I got some spare parts with my truck and the arms it had on it had a wider mount for the carriers and 2 tabs for the shock mount. All the replacement arms had a narrower mount and 1 shock tab. So no b5 hubs/axles and 1 tab seems weaker. I have no idea what the arms are from if you know i would appreciate the info

Maybe post up a picture of what you got questions on.

 

[skunknuggit]

I have flat arms and I believe I have that tower. Broke the other one that had more adjustments. I'm talking about where the bottom of the shocks attach to the c.a. certified Mike posted a link up above and that's what I have now is the rpm replacement I need the stock style I guess. At the end that holds the steering hub and carrier the stock has room for a shim and rpm don't. I need that extra room to run th b5 hub and axle I believe. Somewhere on here I was told you could run them so you can use hex drive wheels.

 

[RustyUs]

Ya I've broken a couple of those and upgraded to those because that's what I had. Probably going to switch them all throughout. I have another ?? If you don't mind... I got some spare parts with my truck and the arms it had on it had a wider mount for the carriers and 2 tabs for the shock mount. All the replacement arms had a narrower mount and 1 shock tab. So no b5 hubs/axles and 1 tab seems weaker. I have no idea what the arms are from if you know i would appreciate the info

I have flat arms and I believe I have that tower. Broke the other one that had more adjustments. I'm talking about where the bottom of the shocks attach to the c.a. certified Mike posted a link up above and that's what I have now is the rpm replacement I need the stock style I guess. At the end that holds the steering hub and carrier the stock has room for a shim and rpm don't. I need that extra room to run th b5 hub and axle I believe. Somewhere on here I was told you could run them so you can use hex drive wheels.

I understand now what you mean by tabs on the arms... mounting location where the bottom of the shock's rod end/pivot ball gets secured to the arms. Sorry, I'm dense some days.

I've never had an issue with RPM's arms for the T4/SC10. Well, the left side screw that secures the shock to the arm, the pivot ball would work that screw loose. I always had to keep an eye on it.

As far as the amount of room needed to position a "5 series" caster block into an RPM arm and slide the hinge pin in... I'd probably Dremel some material away. It all depends on how much material we are talking about.

 

[RustyUs]

Hex Conversion

Not mine. B6 parts on B4. This will be, basically, what it would look like...

Somebody else using Yokomo steering/caster blocks...

 

[skunknuggit]

I understand now what you mean by tabs on the arms... mounting location where the bottom of the shock's rod end/pivot ball gets secured to the arms. Sorry, I'm dense some days.
View attachment 233933View attachment 233934
I've never had an issue with RPM's arms for the T4/SC10. Well, the left side screw that secures the shock to the arm, the pivot ball would work that screw loose. I always had to keep an eye on it.

As far as the amount of room needed to position a "5 series" caster block into an RPM arm and slide the hinge pin in... I'd probably Dremel some material away. It all depends on how much material we are talking about.
View attachment 233940

Ya thats exactly what I mean!!

Hex Conversion

Not mine. B6 parts on B4. This will be, basically, what it would look like...
View attachment 233943
View attachment 233947
View attachment 233949

Somebody else using Yokomo steering/caster blocks...
View attachment 233951

Well son of a gun... I just so happen to have a b6 with a bunch of extra plastic stuff so ill check that out

 

[RustyUs]

V1 12mm Shock Spacers/Hat Bushings

Where 'Round Here?

Every time I think I'm ready to do this shock upgrade, something is always missing to make 'em work. Now, it's the pistons. I bought them years ago... put them in a labeled easy to find box. Apparently, easy to find back then does not have the same meaning now.
View attachment 233877

I thought for sure I had some rebuild kits as spares:

Thankfully, the newer V2 12mm shock rebuild parts are said to be a direct fit replacement.

eBay, here I come.

 

[RustyUs]

GHEA Shock Pistons

I'm sure glad somebody likes to "geek out" on RC suspensions.
https://www.ghea.se/ghea-shock-pistons/

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Because RC shocks are primitive in design and basic in the way they work compared to other industries it’s important to understand why we tune the bits we do.

This is where we have collected all the set-up information imaginable,tested extensively and studied the dyno results in every conceivable way to be able to give you everything you need.

Having a machined piston ensures an exact match to each manufacturers internal shock body which means the holes do the work and there is no blow by where the oil runs around the pistons between the body.

This will decrease shaft wiggle when the shock is fully extended and increase the strength and support of the shock.

“Pack rack”​

No more guessing-you can now tune your shocks to run the same oil between pistons and using a base setting. Your able to maintain the the same low speed damping settings with all 5 pistons but you can adjust your high speed pack setting between 10-25% in either direction.
Each piston,hole number and size has been meticulously calculated to give the piston of pack set a unique approach to tuning your RC shocks.

Allowing you to run the same oil in each piston of choice and the car will feel exactly the same on the bench.

What this means is- no more guessing which oil to use when changing pistons and knowing exactly how the car will react to changes you make.

For example: If your car is working good on the majority of the track but you have a big jump with a heavy landing and the car is bottoming out on this one section.You can increase your high speed damping (pack) by 10% and this should help your car on landing but won’t be different anywhere else.

If 10% isn’t enough then go to 20% and see how that feels.

Likewise if you are on an extremely bumpy high speed track and your wheels needs to move quicker-then you can decrease the pack.

This is a scientific approach to getting what you need from your car rather than guesswork.

Our dyno in action. Measuring the low speed damping and shock resistance at this station.

Low and high speed dyno results mapped out for analysis.

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Just like most great things of yesteryear.... seems GHEA Racing has fallen off the map.

 

[RustyUs]

E-Clips

While I wait for "last" parts needed for the shocks, I gave in and fought with those darn e-clips. Was not too bad... I only had one fly off onto the table and was able to be found quickly.